Suzuki DR350
Suzuki DR350 parts and service that I support
- Dirt-Bike-Gear really tough packs
- Kientech Engineering Jesse is the man
- ManRacks great luggage racks (read my review below)
- ThumperTalk best prices I've found on OEM parts
Table of contents
- Bearings
- Carburetor jets
- Carburetor rebuild kit
- Clarke tank
- Fork boot/gaiter information
- Front fender - UFO cross reference
- Handguards - Tusk D-Flex
- Handlebars - Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend
- Hour meter installation
- JAGG oil cooler installation instructions
- Luggage rack by ManRacks
- Oil cooler
- Oil hose replacement
- Petcock replacement
- Rear wheel bearings and seals
- Shift lever replacements
- Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams
- Spark plug resistor cap
- Speedometer - Baja Designs
- Tire mounting lubricant
- Workshop manuals / shop manuals / service manuals
Bearings
Updated: 2011 Apr 22
I pulled this data directly from the actual bearings on 1990 DR350 parts bike I purchased.
| Suzuki Part Number | ID | OD | Width | Seals | Brand | Part Number | Extra Markings |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 09262-20121 | 20 mm | 47 mm | 14 mm | open | Koyo | 6204RHR | HR, SH |
| 09262-30077 | 30 mm | 72 mm | 19 mm | open | Koyo | 6306 | SH |
| 08113-69050 | 25 mm | 42 mm | 9 mm | open | Koyo | 6905 | |
| 09262-20145 | 20 mm | 52 mm | 15 mm | open | Koyo | 6304 | |
| 09262-17038 | 17 mm | 42 mm | 12 mm | open | Koyo | 6203R/ID | |
| 09262-20121 | 20 mm | 47 mm | 14 mm | open | Koyo | 6204RHR | HR, SH |
| 09262-17027 | 17 mm | 40 mm | 12 mm | 1RS | Koyo | 6203RUD | |
| 09262-22024 | 22 mm | 56 mm | 16 mm | 1RS | NTN | 63/22 LAX | LX |
Carburetor jets
Updated: 2010 Jul 27
Pilot jets
The “VM28.486” series of jets is what will work in the stock dirt carburetor (Mikuni TM33 SS). The “N224.103” series of jets may look like they will work, but they will not fit.
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Main jets
The “N100.604” series of jets is what will work in the stock dirt carburetor (Mikuni TM33 SS). The “N102.221” series of jets will also work perfectly well, although the diameter of the head is smaller.
The dimensions of the “N100.604” jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 8 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
The dimensions of the “N102.221” jet are as follows.
- Diameter of the slotted head: 6 mm
- Overall length: 9 mm
- Thread size: 5 mm × 0.75 mm
Photo courtesy of Niche Cycle Supply.
Carburetor rebuild kit
Updated: 2011 Sep 14
Mikuni TM33 pumper carburetor
Thanks to Phil Young for sending me this information in a private email.
Carb kit model number K-583 made by Keyster. Fits the Suzuki DR250, DR350, GS500, GSX600, and GSX1100. The kit is available from Sirius Consolidated Inc.
Clarke tank
Updated: 2010 Aug 24
Earlier this year I installed a larger Clarke tank on my 1993 DR350. I love the larger capacity. But, I started to notice that the right side of the tank was rubbing on portions of the decompression lever assembly.
Fork boot/gaiter information
Updated: 2010 Jan 15
Searching the Internet, I couldn't find much in the way of definitive information on replacement fork boot fitment for the DR350. Folks mentioned replacing them, but no one seemed to have specifics. So, I measured up my fork and ordered a Daystar replacement boot. Here are the details for anyone else so inclined.
- Diameter of fork tube (top dimension of fork boot): 43 mm
- Diameter of fork lower (bottom dimension of fork boot): 55 mm
- Fully extended length of the fork boot (from fork lower mounting point to immediately under the top triple clamp): approximately 15 in
- Daystar series MX00069 is a good fit and is available in a wide variety of colors.
I reused the original metal clamps in lieu of the provided zip ties. With the forks in their lowest position in the triple trees and fully extended, the boots reach nicely from immediately under the lower triple tree to the proper mounting location on the fork lowers. The fit at the top and bottom is quite nice…not too snug nor too loose.
The last two letters “BK” signify the color of the fork boots (these are available in a wide variety of colors). So, it is really only the first part “MX00069” that you need to be concerned about.
I couldn't find the DR350 listed anywhere on their website (or anywhere else, for that matter), but these fit many other machines, such as the 1982 Honda CR480R. I bought these from Rocky Mountain ATV.
Front fender - UFO cross reference
Updated: 2010 Feb 22
A common replacement front fender is the UFO front fender originally made for the following models:
- Suzuki RM125/RM250, 2001 to 2008
- Suzuki RMZ250, 2007 to 2008
- Suzuki RMZ450, 2005 to 2007
The UFO part numbers for this fender include:
- SU03985-102 (yellow
- SU03985-001 (black)
- SU03985-041 (white)
The Parts Unlimited part numbers for this fender include:
- 1403-0053 (yellow
- 1403-0054 (black)
- 1403-0055 (white)
This fender is pre-drilled and bolts on in the existing location without any need for alteration.
OEM Cycle is *one* place to get them.
Handguards - Tusk D-Flex
Updated: 2011 Mar 15
Here are some photos of how I've mounted the Tusk D-Flex handguards sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my 1993 Suzuki DR350. For reference, I'm also using the Tusk T-10 Aluminum handlebar, CR Mid Bend.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk D-Flex handguards mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Handlebars - Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend
Updated: 2011 Mar 16
Here are some photos of the Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC on my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Tusk T-10 Aluminum, CR Mid Bend handlebars mounted on a 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Hour meter installation
Updated: 2010 Oct 27
Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.
I wanted to add an hour meter to my DR350 to aid in knowing when to perform routine maintenance. I found one on eBay made by ProPower.
I made a simple bracket out of some aluminum flat stock I had, and mounted it to the left bolt that secures the trip meter in place.
As for wiring, I grounded it to the bolt on the frame that normally secures the wiring harness loom in place with a clip. For the positive supply, I hooked it into circuit feeding the headlight.
A quick test showed it functions fine. I like that it is out of the way, yet easily viewed whenever I have the desire.
Follow-up
The Pro Power hour meter lasted for 79.9 hours and then died. Obviously it was not up to the task. I do not recommend the Pro Power hour meter.
JAGG oil cooler installation instructions
Updated: 2010 Nov 01
Although the complete kit specific to the DR350 is no longer available from JAGG, these are the JAGG instructions for installing an oil cooler on a Suzuki DR350.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 127 KB | 1 page |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Luggage rack by ManRacks
Updated: 2011 Mar 14
Mike from ManRacks sent me a luggage rack for my 1993 DR350. Mike has just recently begun creating luggage racks for the Suzuki DR350 and he sent me (and a few other folks) the first prototypes for evaluation. I am thrilled that Mike would consider me a worthy recipient. Thanks, Mike!
When Mike first contacted me about sending one, I figured I might see it in a month or two. Not so, it was in my mailbox two days later. If that's the way he runs the rest of his business, he'll have a lot of happy customers.
My first impression when I examined the rack is that it is well thought out and well made. The construction is straight, flat, and true. The welds are obviously made by a professional. The powder coat finish is quite nice.
Installation couldn't have been easier. Remove three fasteners, flex the plastic fender down just a bit, and slide the rear center tab in place. The rear center tab is secured in place with the original fastener. Mike sent along two longer bolts (8 mm × 1.25 mm × 50 mm) to replace the original front two bolts. I found them about 5 mm - 10 mm too long, as they bottomed out before tightening up fully. I've told Mike of this and he has already purchased shorter bolts. Other than that very minor nit, the rack fit perfectly.
The rack appears quite strong and is very securely attached to the frame. I grabbed the rack and attempted to flex, twist, and turn it. No go. It is nice and solid.
From the pictures, you can see that I typically ride with my Dirt Bike Gear rear fender bag. The ManRacks luggage rack obviously interferes with the rear fender bag. I'm going to ask Mike if he'll make me one that will permit me to mount the ManRacks luggage rack at the same time as the rear fender bag (similar to the apparent design of the DR650 luggage rack he makes). See revised rack below.
All told, I think Mike's luggage rack is a nice piece of equipment. I can't wait to strap on some gear and give it a thorough workout.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fitting a ManRacks DR350 luggage rack to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised luggage rack
I asked Mike if he would make a revised rack that would permit me to keep my Dirt Bike Gear rear fender bag in place at the same time as the luggage rack. Less than a week after my request the freshly powder coated rack was at my house. Incredible! Fit is perfect with my rear fender bag and installation is just as quick and easy as the first rack he sent me. Good stuff - I love it!
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The revised ManRacks DR350 luggage rack fit to my 1993 Suzuki DR350.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Oil cooler
Updated: 2010 Dec 03
The original oil cooler was an optional upgrade and most DR350's do not have them fitted. I've seen very few pictures of them. When Dr.Z posted his for sale on Adventure Rider, I grabbed the images.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Photo courtesy of Dr.Z.
Oil hose replacement
Updated: 2010 Aug 24
After 17 years, I figured it was time to replace the oil hoses on my 1993 DR350. They had not failed, but I figured it was better to be safe than sorry.
I started by doing a bit of research to determine the pressures I would be dealing with. The engine is designed to work with 20 PSI of oil pressure. But, I do not believe the oil hoses are subjected to even this low amount of pressure. Why? Well, after examining the engine lubrication system chart in the workshop manual (chapter 4, page 8), I learned that one of the oil hoses is under “suction” as it feeds the oil pump while the other two oil hoses are under very low pressure as they return oil up into the top of the frame (there should be essentially zero restriction getting the oil back up into the tank). If you examine the oil flow diagram, you'll see what I'm talking about.
Alright, we are not dealing with high pressure. Still, oil temperature can get quite hot. I figured 212° fahrenheit is about as hot as I'd ever want the oil to get. Members of the Maximum Suzuki forum encouraged me to get something that could tolerate temperatures of at least 300° fahrenheit. I figured that would be a good safety margin, too.
After purchasing a couple of stainless steel braided hoses that would not fit, I wound up finding a good hose at my local NAPA. The hose is made by Gates and is part number H-1946, is 1⁄2 in inside diameter, and is transmission oil cooler hose. It is good for a constant 300° fahrenheit and 400 PSI working pressure. You can search for it on the NAPA website. Get three feet and you'll have enough for a mistake or two.
Installation was the easy part. After draining the oil, I removed the complete oil hose assembly, taking note of the routing for subsequent installation. I then cut off each original fitting using a hacksaw with the hose clamped in my bench vice. I measured the original length and then cut my new hose to the same length. I fit the hoses to the steel lines, but I did not clamp the hoses on at this point…choosing instead to wait until they were positioned properly on the engine.
I replaced the two o-rings that seal the steel oil lines to the engine case (under the flanges that are secured to the engine case with two allen head bolts). I had forgotten to order these when I had placed a recent order with ThumperTalk. I found that AS568A Dash Number 112 o-rings fit and sealed perfectly, so I used them. Yes, I know they are not metric o-rings, but it really doesn't matter in this application.
I also should have had replacement crush washers on hand for the two banjo bolts. But the originals were in fine shape and I reused them.
During installation, I found that I could use stronger wide band worm drive hose clamps on most connections (I reused old worm drive hose clamps I had lying around the garage). On the two lowest connections, I found that the larger worm drive hose clamps would interfere with the engine case and/or skid plate. So, I used some good quality narrow band worm drive hose clamps in these locations. I mention “good quality” because a lot of the worm drive hose clamps sold in auto parts stores (or Walmart) are complete junk and not strong enough for even the lightest task. Just make sure you use some good ones.
That's really it. Don't forget to put oil back in and to kick the engine over a bunch of times before starting it to get the oil circulating again.
Petcock replacement
Updated: 2010 Sep 04
When I fit my Clarke tank, I decided to install a new petcock at the same time. My original petcock was functioning perfectly. But Suzuki doesn't sell a new gasket (without purchasing the complete petcock for USD $57.16). There are rebuild kits available, but they run USD $15.00 and up (more for the vacuum actuated petcocks used on the CV carburetors). Fortunately, I learned from a post over at the Maximum Suzuki forum that a petcock from a 2001 - 2005 Yamaha Raptor 660 fits and works perfectly. Yamaha used this petcock in many other applications, too. I purchased mine from boats.net as I found they had the lowest price (including shipping) at the time (cost delivered to my door was USD $24.67). I've used the Yamaha Raptor petcock now for ~80 hours without any trouble at all. It is a good, inexpensive solution.
Part number variation:
- 5LP-24500-01-00
- 5LP 24500 01 00
- 5LP245000100
Model fitment:
- 2001 YFM660RN - Raptor
- 2001 YFM660RNC - Raptor
- 2002 YFM660RP - Raptor
- 2002 YFM660RPB - Raptor Limited Edition
- 2003 YFM660RLER - Raptor Black Limited Edition
- 2003 YFM660RR - Raptor 660R
- 2004 YFM660RLES - Raptor Limited Edition
- 2004 YFM660RS - Raptor 660
- 2005 YFM660RT - Raptor 660
- 2005 YFM660RSET - Raptor SE
Rear wheel bearings and seals
Updated: 2011 Aug 14
This information comes from my 1993 DR350 dirt bike without a cush drive.
- 6004: 20 mm ID × 42 mm OD × 12 mm width (2 of these bearings are required)
- 6204: 20 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 14 mm width (1 of these bearings is required)
- Seal: 26 mm ID × 42 mm OD × 7 mm width (1 of these seals is required)
- Seal: 26 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 6 mm width (1 of these seals is required)
Shift lever replacements
Updated: 2011 Apr 12
- EMGO part number 83-88087
- IMS part number 315514; fits Suzuki DR250 (1990-1995), DR350 (1990-1999), DR650 (1990-2006)
- Moose part number MSU11 (DR250/350 90-92); MSU12 (DR250/350 93-99, DR350 97-99)
Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams
Updated: 2011 Apr 18
I gleaned this information from numerous online resources.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 7,288 KB | 133 pages | |
| 3,037 KB | 171 pages | |
| 7,477 KB | 111 pages | |
| 3,768 KB | 121 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Spark plug resistor cap
Updated: 2010 Mar 23
I recently replaced my original spark plug cap with an NGK VD05FP (8429). Has the waterproof covers. Fits and works a treat. I've a 1993 DR350. You'll want to check the specifications to make sure it works with the later spark plugs, etc. Here is a great document from NGK that will tell you about each resistor cover (as they call them).
Speedometer - Baja Designs
Updated: 2010 Nov 11
Tire mounting lubricant
Updated: 2010 Dec 09
In the past I've used all manner of lubricants from soap to WD-40. I never had any trouble with any of them, though I was always careful to wash off the excess.
Several years ago I bought a gallon of the real stuff and I've been using it ever since. It is inexpensive, lasts a long time, and does a great job.
Balkamp tire mounting lubricant, part number 7652434, sold by NAPA.
Workshop manuals / shop manuals / service manuals
Updated: 2010 Aug 17
This information was gleaned from suzukidr350.com - G Man's Suzuki DR 350 Resources (http://www.suzukidr350.com/suzukidr350/majorrepairs/majorrepairs.htm). I am making it available here only because the suzukidr350.com website is no longer available.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 77,238 KB | 394 pages |
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
