Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, Eldorado, 850 California - Body, tank, fenders, side covers, tool boxes

Decals

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Tank, fender tip, and side cover decals can be hard to find. And, if you do stumble across some 30 year old "new" decals, they're liable to be next to impossible to actually use. Fortunately, John Prusnek has created brand new, high-quality decals that are very close to being exactly like the original silk screened version. I used them during my Ambassador restoration and I am very pleased with them. You can get all the information you need from John at his website.

Disc brake front fender - fork mount measurement

Updated: Aug 18, 2008

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I extracted this information from Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

The distance from the top of the upper fork mounting hole to the edge of the fender is exactly 4.5". This is from a 1974 Eldo Police disk front.

This measurement is useful when converting a drum brake fender to fit on a disc brake front end.

Fuel tank cleaning and coating

Updated: Jul 14, 2010

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Alternative

In Gregory Bender's own words:

The fuel tank on my Ambassador was showing signs of rust on the inside. So, prior to having it painted, I used a several stage system designed to (1) remove gum, sludge, and varnish, (2) remove rust and prepare the tank for the sealer, (3) seal the tank against any further damage. The kit worked great and I've had no problems. The kit even came with a patch for repairing holes or weak areas, but I did not use it and cannot attest to it's ability. I purchased the entire kit from a company called POR-15. They call it a "cycle fuel tank repair kit".

Alternative

Thanks to Ken Giese for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

I picked up a gallon of horticultural molasses at a feed store. The 850T has a "collar" inside the fill hole which REALLY limits access and sight angles. Top to bottom filling really appealed to me considering the top of the tank was probably where the bulk of the rust was. I forgot to mention that I rinsed the tank out first with soap and water to loosen things up. I also shook some bb's around. A real hassle getting them out as the filler hole collar leaves drainage to the petcock holes. Plugged up those holes and filled 'er up.

Nothing happened for a few days (molasses is a long process) but about the 3rd day I noticed the solution was draining out the top onto the floor. Topped it back up and even more on the floor the next day. Then it started "burping" every once in awhile. Obviously some sort of chemical reaction. I decided to put the cap back on and shake it up in case of settling. Wow. When I opened the cap it exploded out like a shook up cola bottle. What a mess, so a word to the wise. All said I let it set for about 10 days, drained it and rinsed with water. Bare metal. I was impressed!

After it dried, I sloshed around some phosphoric acid to prevent rusting until I add gasoline. Figure I can treat the tank again in a few years if desired rather than add a sealer.

Update:

My yearlong, slow restoration project is nearly complete; meaning that blasted tank sat with nothing in it and rusted again! Not bad, but more than flash rust. The phosphoric acid treatment only lasts so long by itself. So, this time I sealed it with POR-15 after researching the product and corresponding with their service dept. I again got the rust out with molasses. I didn't buy their kit, just the sealer. Terrific product. Yes, if the bike was ready to ride I could have just filled it with gas and been done with it as originally intended. Interestingly, POR-15 thought I'd be ok "naked" with a full tank of gas. But with the next step of painting and a planned Oct launch I like knowing it's sealed.

Alternative

Thanks to Greg Barratt for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.:

Milkstone remover is sold in gallons and is very reasonably priced - about USD $7.00. Use about 1/3 gallon, and then fill the tank with water to the very top. Let it sit for a day or so (in the sun helps a little), empty it, rinse it, and dry it with a heat gun and a little alcohol. The phosphate leaves a coating to inhibit rust. The solution also can be re-used. Just filter the crud out, and bottle it up.

You can get milkstone remover at Tractor Supply Company. Dairy farmers use it to clean their milking equipment.

Alternative

Thanks to Kevin Hahn for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

I can get a gallon of phosphoric acid for about $7 at the local farm store. Its labeled as pipeline cleaner or milkstone remover.

Works good as a rust remover but don't get it anywhere near aluminum. That includes the petcock. It will eat that away in a couple of days. For badly rusted tanks I will fill it with a mix of the acid and water and let it sit. Sometimes I will put some nuts and bolts or a length of chain it it to knock some of the stuff loose. Everytime I walk by it I'll give it a shake.

Alternative

Thanks to Greg Field for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

Milkstone remover for dairy bulk tanks. Available at Fleet Farm-type stores. Or OSPHO, available at good hardwares.

Alternative

Thanks to ??? McMillen for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

I have a bottle of some stuff called "The Works" - says it removes rust from bathrooms - has phosphoric acid and other stuff it says… after treating the interior of a tank with it one would want to "stop" the acid with baking soda solution washdown…then maybe a half ounce of marvel mystery oil in the tank before every fill up.

Alternative

Thanks to Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

Charlie followed the instructions presented at Ken French's Electrolysis Setup. Here are a few notes and several photos from Charlie.…

• You want Arm & Hammer "Super Washing Soda" which is normally found at the supermarket in the aisle with the laundry detergent. Comes in a yellow box. Here's where I found the procedure in the first place: http://650rider.com/Content/pid=6.html I bought two large (5 gallon?) plastic buckets to mix the solution in and to drain it back into when done. Used a large plastic cup to transfer the solution from the bucket to the tank.
• I've had no reoccurance of rust so far, but it is winter (low humidity) and I do keep the tank full as much as possible.
• The rubber plugs were purchased at the local Ace Hardware, any good hardware store should have them. I've seen them in the hardware section of the local Lowe's. You want the black rubber not cork ones. The small ones are 3/8" at the smaller end, 9/16" at the larger end. The big one is 1.5" at the smaller end and 1.75" at the larger end. I used a 3/32" drill bit to make the holes in it for the sacrificial anode.

Sacrificial anode.Sacrificial anode.

Placed into the tank. Tank filled with a solution of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda water.Placed into the tank. Tank filled with a solution of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda water.

Electricity supplied by battery charger. 12 volts, 6 amps.Electricity supplied by battery charger. 12 volts, 6 amps.

Anode after 8 hours.Anode after 8 hours.

Final cleaning of the tank. Drained the solution, then flushed thoroughly with the pressure washer.Final cleaning of the tank. Drained the solution, then flushed thoroughly with the pressure washer.

Clean metal. Two large bottles of rubbing alcohol are next, sloshed around to disperse any remaining water.Clean metal. Two large bottles of rubbing alcohol are next, sloshed around to disperse any remaining water.

Drying the tank. Drained the alcohol, then used the heat gun on low to dry the insides.Drying the tank. Drained the alcohol, then used the heat gun on low to dry the insides.

Following Charlie's lead, I now use this electrolysis technique prior to any coating. It works very well. Here are a couple notes from my personal experience.

• If you cannot find the Arm & Hammer "Super Washing Soda", just look in the pool section of your hardware store for Soda Ash (which is sodium carbonate). Soda ash is used to raise the pH level in swimming pools and is inexpesnive.
• I found coat hangers would disintegrate pretty quickly (I use a power supply). So, instead, I used bicycle hanging hooks (for hanging a bicycle from the rafters in a garage) that I purchased from the local hardware store inexpensively. It is really nothing more than a thick rod and they last a long time.
• Keeping the tank in a horizontal position and filling it to the brim with the solution will still leave the underside of the top of the tank exposed. I found it necessary to carefully rotate the tank to ensure that all parts are submerged during electrolysis.

Alternative

Thanks to Lannis Selz for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Lannis' own words:

After years of fighting fuel tanks, trying to clean old braze out of seams to get a clean weld, experimenting with sealers, trying to figure out how to get the old sealer out (because it never seems to hold), I found Moyers Fuel Tank Renu and will never go back.

Having a known-good fuel tank is important to me, I hate leaks, I hate fires, I hate little stringers of goo in my jets stopping me in the rain on a long trip. And since it's something you only have to do ONCE per fuel tank if it's done right, it's worth it.

Moyers takes your tank, plasma-cuts the bottom out of it, bakes it at 800° F to burn all the old goop and solder out, fixes all the seams and leaks with MIG or TIG welds as needed, straightens it out, welds it back up, grinds and handworks the seam so you can't see it, seals it with some sort of red sealer that never quits, gives the outside a coat of primer, and sends it back. My last tank was USD $290.00 for this treatment; I've never had one leak or fail after all this…

Gas cap gasket dimensions

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Civilian flip-top gas cap

60 mm OD x 39 mm ID x 3 mm Thick (1/8" thick material works well)

Gas cap replacement

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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I had the police style cap on my Ambassador (just a round cap, no lever). Although my gasket was good, I kept getting leaks through the venting mechanism. I kept hoping to be able to get a NOS or good used one off of ebay, but no luck.

John Ulrich told me that he replaced his with one from Dennis Kirk. Finally sick and tired of cleaning up leaked fuel, I purchased the vented cap from Dennis Kirk (Dennis Kirk part number: H18199; Drag Specialties part number: DS-390130).

It looks very close to original, fits well, and seals perfectly. When changing out my petcocks with a tank nearly full of fuel, I set the tank on end for over 10 minutes without any leaks from the cap.

Update: Now that I've used the cap for a while, I've discovered that it let's air in fine, but does not allow air to escape. This may not seem like a problem, but too much pressure inside the tank will stop the fuel flow (I'm not sure how this happens, but it does). This usually isn't a problem unless you are running long distances at speed. Pressure will build up inside the tank to some point, and then the engine will faulter. Open the cap to allow the excess pressure to escape, and the fuel flow continues and away you go. This seems to happen more to me on hot days than on cool days. John Ulrich drilled a couple of strategically placed holes on the underside of his cap to prevent this from happening. I did the same, but then the cap started leaking again (I like to fill my tank up very full). So, I'm back to the drawing board. Until I find a better solution, I will continue to use the cap from Dennis Kirk.

Keys for tool boxes and fork lock

Updated: Dec 09, 2008

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I extracted this information from Fred Sahms off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!) AND from Duane Ausherman's website AND from the MGNOC publication "Tips for Guzzis, Volume II" AND from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle in a private email.

Cross-reference

The locks for the tool boxes and fork lock were made by Neiman (German company). I've not tried these key blank cross-references, but I believe them to be correct.

• Curtis MC44
• Dominion SR61N
• ESP N2M
• Ilco V06
• JMA NE-6
• Neiman
• Silca NE5
• Taylor B69K

Online source

Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle found these keys online: KeyBlankSales, search for "SR61N".

Cut your own blanks

If you have an original Neiman key, a copy, or a key code, you can cut your own blanks. Here is how to decipher the code from a key.

• Each number in the code represents the depth of the cut that is to be made. 5 is no cut at all. 0 is the deepest cut. The first number represents the cut nearest to the portion of the key that is held by the hand. Not all keys have 6 digits.
• So, using the first key shown below, we have:
  • 1 - a deep cut almost to the slot
  • 2 - not quite as deep as a 1
  • 4 - a very tiny cut
  • 2 - equal to the previous "2"
  • 5 - no cut at all
  • 0 - a deep cut clear to the slot; this one happens to be at the end of the key

Key code = 124250Key code = 124250

Key code = 351140Key code = 351140

Key code = 153340 Key code = 153340

Paint codes

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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These paint codes were derived from numerous sources.

Picture	Color	Paint code
	V700 Silver	from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG "Astra Silver Poly", Tinting Guide: DBC33108 (base coat Urethane system, no OEM) or PPG "Astra Silver Poly", Tinting Guide: DAR 33108 (Acrylic Enamel, OEM Mercedes DB735) The paint tech did say that the tint was slightly off on the Acrylic Enamel and recommended the base coat Urethane. from Moe at Cycle Garden (submitted by Tom Short) - I use PPG DP epoxy primer on bare metal and PPG DBC 2 stage as a top coat. from Frank Casssese - Harley "V Rod" silver is pretty close. or from Hans Rosenstein - BMW bike color: Titan Silver Metallic (Glasurit 354)
	V700 / Early Ambassador Red	from John Chicoine - RM's UNO-HD CMS 8342B was an incredible match with the original red on my tank. or from Hans Rosenstein - BMW bike color: Piedmont Red Metallic (Glasurit 912)
	Later Ambassador / Eldorado Burgundy	from Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics & Kevin O'Brien - PPG DBU 4240 from Greg Field - Might be the same as V7 Sport burgundy
	Ambassador / Eldorado Black	from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG "Black", Tinting Guide: DBC9667 (base coat Urethane, OEM General Motors 19U)
	Ambassador / Eldorado White	from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG "Cameo White", Tinting Guide: DBC90256 (base coat Urethane, no OEM)
	850 GT Green	?
	850 GT Burgundy	? May be the same as the Ambassador / Eldorado burgundy?

Painting

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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I've used each of the companies listed below and I've been happy with the results and the prices charged for the services rendered.

Minneapolis, Minnesota area

Rob Reardon
(952) 292-8886

Paint removal - before you blast…

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Be extremely cautious before you use any type of impact blasting process to remove paint from sheet metal. All of those tiny bits are acting like miniature hammers and can/will change the shape of your sheet metal. This can have especially negative consequences on the radius of fenders…particularly the rear fender - making it very difficult to install it again within the frame. How do I know this?

Instead, I recommend a less chancy approach such as baking the old paint off. This requires special ovens that heat things up to 800 degrees Farenheit or so…and the paint just burns off. Or, you could simply use paint striper and/or good old fashioned sandpaper to remove the old paint.

Petcock alignment

Updated: Nov 20, 2008

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Because the petcocks screw directly into the tank in a "bolt-and-nut" fashion, it can be difficult to get the petcock both sufficiently tight and properly aligned so as to afford access to turn them on and off. As original, thin shimming washers can be used to achieve the desired results.

Thanks to Mike Tiberio for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mike's own words:

McMaster Carr to the rescue again. They have stainless steel shim washers with metric IDs. They come in 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm thicknesses. Look on catalog page #3174.

Gregory Bender adds:

An ID of 12 mm is needed. Since the thread pitch is 1.0 mm, a shim of less than that thickness is needed to achieve proper alignment. A shim of 0.5 mm will change the alignment by ½ a turn; a shim of 0.2 mm will change the alignment by 1/5 a turn, etc. I suggest purchasing 0.2 mm thick shims and stacking them as needed. 0.1 mm may sound like the perfect solution for very granular control of alignment. But keep in mind that 0.1 mm is very thin and easily distorted.

McMaster-Carr metric shim

Mike Tiberio also posted an interesting alternative to the standard petcock alignment:

I think most folks assume the standard position with their petcocks. That is the plane of motion for the swinging lever is a vertical plane, parallel to the fore/aft axis of the bike. This puts the hose tap pointing inward toward the centerline of the bike.

I never liked what I consider a number of side effects of using the stock petcock orientation. the hose barb pointing inward makes removing the hose problematic, and taking the tank off without snagging a fuel line tap or fuel line is also problematic. The lever just seems tough to operate from a human factors point of view. Add to all this, the fuel line routing is tortured (IMHO).

What I have done is rotated the petcocks 90 degrees so the plane within which the lever swings is perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bike. This has a number of beneficial effects (once again IMHO).

First it seems easier with a gloved finger and thumb to operate the petcock lever with an in/out motion rather than a fore/aft motion. The fuel line tap now points either forward or aft (possible since the petcocks are off in either horizontal) as necessary to ensure a short and nicely curved hose run. The hose is now much easier to remove since it isn't buried under the tank. Obviously I point the lever outward when off.

just my $0.02, you might want to give it a try.

Petcock alternative

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Based on recommendations from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle and Greg Field, I decided to swap out my existing stock petcocks for petcocks from a small block Guzzi and adapters to work on the loop tanks.

I had a number of reasons for doing this…(1) tired of trying to get my petcocks lined up properly with shimming washers (2) tired of not having a real reserve (3) tired of worn out internals seals - although the latest set of viton seals from Bruce Giller have worked very well.

The small block petcocks are nice units. They have three settings on both petcocks: Off/On/Reserve. They are mirrored right to left so it is easier to remember which way to turn the petcocks to make them function how you want them to. Operation is smooth.

The adapters are machined stainless and are of high quality. The threads that mate with the tank are quite long for a good fit. Instead of a fiber washer, I used a 12 mm aluminum crush washer to seal the adapter to the tank. Nice stuff.

The petcocks come with small filter screens that screw into each petcock. When secured to the adapters, the filter screens no longer fit. Using a tip from Greg Field, I cut off the plastic bottom of each screen close to the screen material and then JB Welded the screen to the top of the adapters.

I purchased the adapters and petcocks from Moto International. I believe the adapters are a MI exclusive.

Petcock repair

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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My petcocks started leaking / weeping and rather than replacing them, I decided to attempt a repair. The leaking / weeping problem is usually not the washer between the tank and the petcock - which is an easy fix anyway. Rather, the leak is usually caused by a worn out rubber gasket inside the petcock.

There was a tip in the MGNOC newsletter submitted by Bruce Giller suggesting that 1/16" and 3/32" thick Viton be used as a replacement material. Viton is expensive and I couldn't easily find any locally. So I decided to try Neoprene.

The aluminum Orlandi petcocks use 3/32" material. I found a 7 3/4" diameter disc of 3/32" thick Neoprene at my local Ace hardware store (enough for lot's and lot's of petcocks). It was in the plumbing section…I have no idea what it is normally used for.

The chrome plated brass petcocks use 1/16" material. I found a very large 1/16" thick Neoprene washer in the plumbing section of my local Menards home improvement store Danco Company, Stock Number 61808B, UPC Code 0 37155 61808 8). The washer is 1 1/2" in diameter and has a 3/16" hole in the center. The remaining material leaves sufficient room to create 3 gaskets..

I stuck the Neoprene in a can of gas for about 24 hours and didn't see any deterioration; none of the material came off when I rubbed it vigorously with my thumb. So, I figure that it is pretty safe to use, although I'm certain Viton would be better.

Making the gasket and repairing the petcock is not difficult, just follow these steps:

1. Remove the tank from the bike.
2. Remove the petcock from the tank.
3. Place the petcock in a vice so that the front (where the handle is located) is sticking straight up. I used two pieces of wood to sandwich the petcock so as to avoid damage.
4. Unscrew the handle. I was able to use a pliers to grip it firmly. This technique left only very small marks on the handle for me. It is possible to disassemble the petcock without removing the handle, but reassembly can be more difficult as the spring-loaded bolt will be cockeyed.
5. Using a wrench or a socket, unscrew the bolt from the face of the petcock. There is a spring under there, so be careful not to let things fly across the garage.
6. You should now see the rubber gasket. I used a small pick to remove it. You will notice that each hole in the body of the petcock (one hole connects to the fuel tank, one hole connects to the fuel line) has a very small pipe that extends partway through the two corresponding holes in the rubber gasket. This construction prevents the rubber gasket from turning, thus alleviating any need for an adhesive to hold the rubber gasket in place.
7. With the gasket removed, you can now make and install the replacement. I used a hollow punch set to create my holes. I purchased the set from a tool tent sale a number of years ago. Harbor Freight sells a similar 9 piece set.
   • Aluminum Orlandi petcocks: Use the 3/32" material. For the outer diameter, I used a 3/4" hole punch. For the two holes inside the gasket, I used a 3/16" or a 7/32" hole punch.
   • Chrome plated brass petcocks: Use the 1/16" material. For the outer diameter, I used a 5/8" hole punch. For the two holes inside the gasket, I used a 3/16" hole punch.
8. Assembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly, except for the following tips:
   • I made sure that the surfaces that come into contact with the rubber gasket were free from nick, burrs, etc.
   • I put grease on all the parts before reassembly. Some of it will definitely wash off, but hopefully some will remain to help lubricate things.
   • Getting the bolt started into the face of the petcock can be challenging because the spring is working against you. I used a box-end wrench for the bolt and pressed down with a small deep-well socket on the bolt itself. I found this method very effective.
   • I used a little bit of loctite on the handles. I've heard that they have a tendency to rattle loose and fall off if they are not secured well.
9. Before mounting the tank back on the bike, I installed each petcock and tested for leaks with the handle turned in all directions, both with fuel flowing freely from the fuel line and with the fuel line plugged to provide a little back pressure.

So far, my repair seems to be working out well (repair made March 10, 2004). If the status changes, I'll post that information here.

Follow-up: My petcocks started leaking again only a few short months after I replaced the gaskets with neoprene. I contacted Bruce Giller and he sold me several of his viton gaskets. They installed very well and are working great. They also have a better "feel" than the neoprene. Contact Bruce Giller to get your own set.

If you have the chrome plated brass petcocks, contact John Chicoine for the proper seals.

Pin striping tape

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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When pin striping my tank, tool boxes, and fenders, I wasn't sure what size or brand of tape to use. After speaking with my painter, Rob Reardon, I ended up going with the product he recommended and we both decided on sizes together after looking at numerous photos. Here is what I used:

3M Scotchcal Striping Tape (available through most auto supply stores, although they'll probably have to order it).

• For the tool boxes: 72456 (1/2" x 150' Bright White). The tape is 1/2" wide but contains two stripes: 1 stripe that is 1/4" wide and 1 stripe that is 1/8" wide. The two stripes are separated by a 1/8" space.
  • 3M's product info
  • 3M Id: 75-3466-9018-5
  • GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 72456 0
  • Buyer's Part Number: 72456
• For the fenders: 73256 (4/16" x 150' Bright White). The tape is 1/4" wide but contains two stripes: 1 stripe that is 1/8" wide and 1 stripe that is 1/16" wide. The two stripes are separated by a 1/16" space. 3M's product info.
  • 3M's product info
  • 3M Id: 75-3467-5738-0
  • GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 73256 5
  • Buyer's Part Number: 73256
• For the tank: 73256 (Same as for the fenders). Except that we separated the 1/8" and 1/16" pieces to use them for different areas of the tank.
  • 3M's product info
  • 3M Id: 75-3467-5738-0
  • GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 73256 5
  • Buyer's Part Number: 73256

In sum, we used most of the 73256 roll and just a little bit of the 72456 roll.

Since I don't plan to change the pin striping, we applied the pin striping to the base coat and then applied the clear coat on top.

Free

If you would like some of the 72456 roll (see image below), just let me know. I'll send you four, nine inch lengths (enough for one mistake on each toolbox) in a first class envelope. If you can get some use out of it and don't need to buy an entire roll for yourself, just send me an email message.

This is an enlarged scan of the 72456 pin striping tapeThis is an enlarged scan of the 72456 pin striping tape

Pin striping the tank - chrome panel

Updated: Apr 28, 2008

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First off, the original shape of the chrome panel was NOT the same across all tanks. Not only are there large differences between the early V7/V700 tank and the later Ambassador and Eldorado tanks (plus plenty over overlap between), but there are minor differences between any two tanks that came off the production line next to each other and even differences between the left and right sides of an individual tank (not a mirror image). So, there is no rosetta stone that will give you the single exact shape that came from the factory.

Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics sells a matched pair of magnetic shapes (his favorite shape chosen from many) so that all you need to do is position them, mark the outline, and remove.

John Prusnek sent me the shape he used on his tank. Notes from John:

A method I've used is to mask off the chrome panel and scuff up the tank chrome with 400 or 600 wet and dry, being careful around your panel mask.

When you're done with this, take a 1/4" wide striping tape and lay it half over the mask and half over the scuffed up tank and paint the tank. What you're doing here is creating a 1/8" scuffed edge around the chrome panel for your striping paint to get a bite into. Use 'One Shot' sign painter's paint for striping.

When you peel everything off you should be left with a shiny chrome panel with a 1/8" sanded chrome ring around it, which is covered half and half with the 1/4" pinstripe that laps the chrome and the paint.

Pin striping the tank - top rectangle

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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When pin striping the top rectangle on my Eldorado project, I created this template based on information from John Prusnek and John Ulrich (see below).

I gleaned this information from John Prusnek off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

• The width of the front is 6-1/2"
• The width at back is 5-1/8"
• The length of a side is 14-7/8"
• The length down the middle is 16-1/4"

Dimensions are of the outside of the actual inner 3/8" pinstripe rectangle . Outside of this is a 1/16" space then the 1/16" pinstripe. What you would want to do is lay down your 1/16' striping tape on the outside of these measurements and put your thick line on the inside and the thin line on the outside if you're doing it by hand.

I measured this on a bike that's been repainted and striped, but it's pretty close to original. I've got some pics of it here, with some additional pinstriping photos that may be helpful.

In one pic I have an original tank with a ruler on it, hard to read, get close to the screen.

I wouldn't get too anal about the sizing, I'm sure that they're all off a little bit, since the pinstriping was applied by hand, and most likely freehand at that. On the examples I have the top and bottom line is curved to follow the tank rather than square. On the 2 Ambos I've rebuilt the chrome knee panels were different shapes on each side of the tank, by as much as 1/4".

I gleaned this information from John Ulrich off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

If I lay a piece of paper over the edges of the top vertical stripes the inside stripe is 3/4" higher.

Lower arc is 1/4" lower then the two vertical stripes

I took the alignment measurements from the gas cap opening (screw off)

• 3.25" forward to the bottom of the first stripe (wider one on mine)
• 10.25" south to the lower stripe edge
• 1.75" east/west from the edge of the opening

All measurements are to the first edge of the wide (inner stripe)

Plating (Zinc)

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Exchange service

Moto Guzzi Classics
1831 Redondo Avenue
Signal Hill, CA. 90804
(562) 986-0070

Plating companies

Aetna Plating Co
6511 Morgan Ave
Cleveland, OH
(216) 341-9111
(800) 584-8055

Automated Finishing Technologies
1498 N. Bolton
Jacksonville, TX. 75766
(903) 589-7377
Note: Recent reports from customers indicate this company no longer provides top-notch zinc plating services. BUYER BEWARE!

Full Service Zinc
3200 West 121st Street
Cleveland, OH. 44111
(216) 641-8200
(866) 265-9262
Note: Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle reports good results with this company.

Powder coating

Updated: Apr 08, 2008

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I've used each of the companies listed below and I've been happy with the results and the prices charged for the services rendered.

Minneapolis, Minnesota area

Powder Coating Technologies
14920 28th Avenue North
Plymouth, MN. 55447
(763) 559-4779

Phoenix, Arizona area

Arizona Powder Coat
5301 East Washington Street
Phoenix, AZ. 85034
(602) 220-0553

Wichita, Kansas area

Lorac Company
624 East Harry Street
Wichita, KS. 67211
(316) 263-2565

Powder coating - what to do, what not to do

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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Opinions vary widely on this issue. At the end of the day, do whatever you want. But, here is my advice:

Powder coating is a wonderful process. It is very durable and lasts a long time. Powder coat is good for the following things:

• Frames
• Swing arms
• Side and center stands
• Top and bottom triple tree plates
• Fork lowers
• Battery trays
• Battery hold down brackets
• Battery hold down bolts
• Front foot pegs
• Frame to rear brake drum stays
• Seat pans

There is a definite draw back to powder coating (beside the fact that you pretty much have to bake it or blast it off). I would NOT choose to do it on any of the sheet metal because it shows tiny scratches very easily. I'm not talking about scratches that go to the metal, but very light surface scuffs that come from washing, waxing, etc. I would go with regular paint for the sheet metal because you can always polish out those tiny scratches. My only exceptions to this rule are the seat pan and the battery tray. These pieces are rarely visible and highly susceptible to rust…so I choose to powder coat them.

Rear fender installation

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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When I disassembled my Ambassador, the rear fender came apart just fine (at least as far as I can remember - things always seem to come apart better than they go back together). But when it came time to put the rear fender back into the frame, I couldn't believe how tight it was. I just couldn't get the bolt holes to line up. Perhaps the bead/sand blasting that was done to it before painting had created a slightly larger arc. Or, maybe the fender was that tight from the get go. At any rate, it was tight enough for me to stand back and take a look at my frame to see if it was bent. It wasn't.

I ended up calling John Schwartz for some advice. He assured me that my problem was not uncommon. He had encountered very stubborn rear fenders on loop frames before, too. The long and the short of it is that getting the rear fender mounted back into the bike can be difficult. Using some of John's advice and some of my own ideas, I eventually got the fender mounted and in place. Here is what worked for me:

• Before doing anything, I protected all possible touch points that I didn't want scratched with old bath towels.
• I started by loosely connecting the fasteners at the top rear of the fender.
• Next, I loosely connected the fasteners that run through the toolbox, the battery tray, and fender.
• Then, using pry bars and slow but steady determination; I eased the battery tray into place and secured it.
• At this point, I had lot's of fasteners loosely connected. So, tightening in small increments, I moved from one to another until all were tight.

This all sounds nice and systematic…but, as you can well imagine, it wasn't. Good luck.

Side cover screws

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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For some reason or another, side cover screws seem to disappear. You may be able to find a used pair of screws on ebay, but they are getting rare and more expensive. You could also create a functional - and less attractive - set yourself using a long 6 mm bolt and two nuts.

As a very nice looking and affordable alternative, Joe Kenny machines aluminum replacements that look and work great! His website provides all the contact information that you'll need: http://www.swva.net/jkenny. In my opinion, these are better than the originals.

Tool box lock replacement

Updated: Prior to Dec 11, 2007

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I extracted this information from Greg Barratt off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!).

Use the McMaster-Carr item number 13105A75. It is a much nicer lock, doesn't clip on like that chintzy universal one, has a lock nut, keyed alike, waterproof. It comes with a couple of different latches. I use the straight one, cut it way down. Overall I've used 4 of the universal ones, and now 2 of the 'good ones' - there's no comparison.

McMaster-Carr item number 13105A75