Moto Guzzi Loop Frames - Handlebars & controls

Dyeing Granturismo grips

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I wanted to have yellow hand grips for my project Eldorado. But, not just any grips would do. I wanted to use grips with classic styling...Granturismo grips. Unfortunately, Granturismo grips never came in yellow. They did come in white, though, so I bought a pair with the hopes of dyeing them.

I picked up a package of RIT "golden yellow" dye and proceeded to boil the grips in the dye. The grips definitely absorbed the dye, but the heat from the boiling deformed the grips. So, I bought another pair of white grips.

Not happy with the "golden yellow" color, I picked up a package of RIT "yellow" dye. After boiling the dye to disolve it, I let it cool completely. Then I submerged the grips and let them soak for 24 hours. Bingo! They took the color nicely and didn't deform at all. Plus the color matches the lighter yellow of the body work much better.

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Handlebar switches for accessories

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Thanks to Charles Hamer for sending me this information.

Holden sells a variety of handlebar mounted switches.

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Handlebar switch - Kawasaki 004 (ASAHI-DENSO)

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Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle was kind enough to send me the wiring cross reference for this switch that came on an Ambassador he purchased in Spring, 2008.

Kawasaki handlebar switch 004Kawasaki handlebar switch 004

Kawasaki handlebar switch 004Kawasaki handlebar switch 004

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Handlebar switch - Suzuki 577-6 (ASAHI-DENSO)

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Mike Ittner was kind enough to let me borrow his switch so I might create this cross reference. This switch was used on the 1973 - 1977 Suzuki GT 750 (Water Buffalo).

Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6

Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6

Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6

Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6Suzuki handlebar switch 577-6

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Handlebar switch - Yamaha YHA 205

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I extracted this information from Leon Karlak off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

Any 22 mm or 7/8" handlebar switch can be fitted, but period correct switches are more difficult to find. Fortunately, Yamaha still has a nice unit available. Drop by your local Yamaha dealer and pick up part number 396-83972-11-00 (YHA205). This switch was originally fitted to the 1970's RD 125.

Charles Hamer was kind enough to send me the wiring code cross-reference to make installation on our V700, Ambassador, and Eldorado models quick and easy.

Yamaha handlebar switch YHA205 / YHA 205 / YHA-205Yamaha handlebar switch YHA205 / YHA 205 / YHA-205

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Handlebar switch - Yamaha YHA 206

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Paul Linn was kind enough to send me the wiring code cross-reference to make installation on our V700, Ambassador, and Eldorado models quick and easy.

Yamaha handlebar switch YHA206 / YHA 206 / YHA-206Yamaha handlebar switch YHA206 / YHA 206 / YHA-206

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Ignition switch boot

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Thanks to Paul Linn who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

The original boot for the ignition switch (as used on police models where the switch was located in place of the left tool box) has the following dimensions:

• Length = 2.30"
• Large end inside diameter = 1.6"
• Small end inside diameter = 0.45"

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Ignition switch rebuild

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I could not locate any information on how to rebuild the stock Magneti Marelli ignition switch. So, I tackled the job blindly and discovered it wasn't very hard at all. I did not have to replace any parts, just a thorough cleaning and lubrication was all that was needed. Here is the step-by-step:

1. Remove the ignition switch from the dash (or bracket on police models). Do take the time to label your wires...one minute now will save you five minutes later looking the data up on a wiring diagram.
2. Wrap masking tape around the metal body and label near each tab the terminal to which the tab points. This isn't absolutely necessary because the body and rear plastic cover only mate one way, but it does make life a bit easier.

   

   

   

3. Using a small flat-tipped screwdriver, gently pry each tab up and away from the plastic body.

   

4. Carefully remove the black plastic cover...it is spring loaded so watch to make sure that you don't jettison parts all over the place.
5. Grasp the pointed end of inner key switch mechanism and withdraw the entire mechanism from the metal body. Nothing holds it in place, so it should come right out.
6. Remove the small washer-like piece with the tab on it. Note that the tab is directed toward the black plastic cover. Also note that the slot in the washer is wider on one side than on the other. It only fits on one way, so it should not be a problem getting it back together.

   

   

   

7. Remove the contact plate. Note that the contacts face toward the black plastic cover. Also note that the slot in middle of the contact plate is wider on one side than on the other. It only fits on one way, so it should not be a problem getting it back together.

   

   

   

8. Remove the spring.

   

9. Remove the indexing plate. Be careful not to lose the three ball bearings that are beneath the indexing plate. Note that the indexes line up with the ball bearings beneath and that the concave side of the index is what faces the ball bearings. Also note that the rectangle slot in the indexing plate only permits the plate to be installed in one position and still allow for proper indexing of all three ball bearings.

   

   

   

10. Remove the ball bearings. Note that if they appear stuck, it is only because they are stuck...there is no mechanical means by which they are retained. Just squirt a little lubricant in there and they should fall right out.

    

    

11. You are now left with only the core lock mechanism. In order to get to the tumblers and springs, you'll need to pry out the retaining washer. I accomplished this by placing a 7/16", 1/4" drive deep well socket over the shaft. Then, using the side of the socket as a leverage point, I pried on the retaining edge on only a small part of the circumference. Then, I tapped the end of a tiny screwdriver into opening with a hammer, and pried the retaining washer up and out. If I needed to do this again, I would try using just the tiny screwdriver first, then resorting to prying the retaining edge if necessary. Upon reassembly, the retaining washer can be popped back into place. Be sure to crimp the rim back in place over the washer or you risk pushing the retaining washer out of place when you insert the key into the ignition.

    

    

12. Now you can withdraw the core lock mechanism, complete with tumblers and springs, from it's housing. I didn't have any trouble with the springs trying to fling tumblers across the garage, but be careful none the less. Take note that the housing has a wider slot and a narrower slot. It should be obvious that the wide part of the tumblers fits into the wide slot in the housing.

    

    

    

    

    

13. You are now down to the core, four tumblers, and four springs. The tumblers and springs can be removed for cleaning and lubrication, but be very careful to keep track of which tumbler goes into which slot. If you get that wrong, your key won't work. In fact, you can insert your key to be sure all of the tumblers are of the right height. If they are not, you can file on the tumblers to make them so...or get a new key cut. Each tumbler has a little arm at the end. This arm is what comes into contact with the spring. When removing the springs, take extra care. They may be a little fussy, but don't force them.

    

    

    

14. At this point, you are ready to clean, lubricate, and reassemble. Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly and is very straightforward. Do note, though, that the key mechanism must be properly aligned with both the metal housing and the black plastic cover. To do so, ensure that the portion of the key slot that is nearest the edge of the chrome cover (look at the chrome cover where the key is inserted) must be aligned with the double terminal on the black plastic cover.

    

    

    

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Ignition switch replacement

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My Ambassador arrived with an after market ignition switch already lovingly installed. Unfortunately, it was in bad shape...it didn't make contact half the time, etc. I took it apart and cleaned it all up, put it back together and it worked great. The only problem was that the key could be removed from the switch in any position. For some reason, I don't cherish the notion of retracing my ride in a useless attempt to locate a tiny key on the road.

I should have saved my time altogether and just purchased the replacement I now have installed (What can I say? I love to tinker!). It's not a Moto Guzzi ignition switch, but it installs easily in the dash with no modifications and works great. I bought it from Dennis Kirk with two keys. On top of all that, I can still use my switch cover to keep out the dew.

Ignition switch with spring loaded starter

Contributed by Rob Prins on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

This switch would be an appropriate replacement for the V700 and early Ambassador models that did not use a separate starter button. Napa part number ECH KS6180.

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Keys for the ignition switch

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I extracted this information from Fred Sahms off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!) AND from Key Men AND from Keys4Classics AND from the MGNOC publication "Tips for Guzzis, Volume II" AND from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

The ignition switch was made by Magneti Marelli (Italian company). There will be a letter code followed by two numbers stamped on the switch. The letter code, usually "E" or "F", indicates the key code blank that you'll need.

F series key blanks (code series F1-78):

• Curtis: FT29
• Dominion: 63SP
• Ilco: 63SP
• Ilco: F91FS
• Silca: AF5B
  
  I finally sourced an original ignition switch for my Ambassador but it was missing the key. I ordered several replacements from Keys4Classics out of Australia. My lock is an "F" series and the key blanks that I received are SILCA AF5B. They work perfectly in my lock. FYI, Keys4Classsics did an excellent job of responding to my emails and shipping was inexpensive and prompt. First rate.
• Taylor: F69F

E series key blanks (code series E1-78):

• Curtis: FT28
• Dominion: R63SP
• Ilco: R63SP
• Silca: AF5A
• Taylor: F69E
• Hillman: M11 (It is for a Master brand padlock)

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Mirror mounts

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EMGO mirror mounts

MG Cycle sells a universal 7/8" clamp on mirror mount for common 10 mm screw in mirrors. Part number 480112. It works okay, but the fit and finish ain't the best.

Adapting brake and clutch lever perches

I've never been a fan of the clamp on mirror mounts. Every one I've ever seen has been cheaply constructed, prone to rust, and difficult to keep positioned where I want it.

During the Virginia rally in 2006 or 2007 (I can't remember which) I noticed Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle had adapted a set of inexpensive aluminum hand lever perches that had mirror mounts integrated into them. I was convinced.

1. First, get two perches. Buy part number ZX023271B from JC Whitney. Get two of them. It doesn't matter if they are for the brake or clutch. Hack saw off the levers. File, sand, and polish the aluminum smooth. A quick and easy and cheap set of stable perches that look good.
   
   

   

2. Second, purchase a set of mirrors that bolt right on. I chose these from MG Cycle: Part number 2030650. Screw in round mirror, spring loaded mount allows mirror to rotate. $11.50. Fits 8 mm or 10 mm mirror mount holes. Nice wide mirror works particularly well with big handlebars.
   
   These mirrors are inexpensive and work well. Perfect? Well, no they aren't perfect. But they've held up very well for me and have seen a lot of use. Hard to beat at USD $11.50 each.

   

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Starter button bracket

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For some reason, starter button brackets seem to get lost along the way. I made careful measurements and recorded the data on this drawing so that you can recreate the bracket yourself.

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Throttle cover hold-down screw (Super Pratic B)

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The little screw that secures the cover on the Super Pratic B throttle is 3 mm wide x 0.6 mm thread pitch x 3 mm long. The usual thread pitch for 3 mm wide screws is 0.5 mm, making this screw extremely difficult to source. Check with long time dealers to see if they have any in stock.

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Throttle retaining ring (Super Pratic B)

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I extracted this information from Tom Christian off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Tom's own words:

I was sliding my Eldo around on the lift from the right side while holding the throttle and the throttle assembly pulled right out of its housing. On inspection, I found the "retaining ring" had either come out of its groove in the housing or broken - couldn't tell. It was a spring steel ring, not a typical retaining ring shape, and felt weak. I measured and ordered a replacement from McMaster - worked perfectly. Thought someone might be interested in the part number for future reference. (McMaster-Carr part number 91580A235)

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Twist Assist assembly order

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For reference, here is the assembly order for a twist assist...from the outside to the inside:

• Acorn nut
• Split washer
• Nut
• Inner toothed washer
• Flat washer
• Hand grip
• Flat washer
• Nut
• Plastic ring
• Metal cone wedge
• Spring
• Plastic tube

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