Moto Guzzi Loop Frames - Engine, clutch, & related components

Brackets to mount a Tonti timing cover in a loop frame

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Thanks to Mike Tiberio who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mike's own words:

If your like me you like the look of a tonti motor complete with pancake alternator in a loop frame. I like the open air look where the generator (or GF alternator conversion goes). I had the added incentive of making these brackets as I'm making an Eldorado Automatic this winter,and didn't want to have to engineer an electric ATF pump. I posted a scan of my plans that I sent to my machinist a few weeks ago. I got the brackets back this week, and have sized them with a spare timing cover. I'll only know if I got the dimension right when I put the entire drivetrain in and check the drive shaft alignment, but this check tells me I got the side to side dimensions right.

Motor Mount Plans: Hanger bracket to allow motor with tonti timing cover to be mounted into loop frame without welding.Motor Mount Plans: Hanger bracket to allow motor with tonti timing cover to be mounted into loop frame without welding.

Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 1Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 1

Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 2Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 2

Question from Greg Bender:

It is my understanding that the Tonti alternator cover will hit the front fender upon full fork compression? I don't have any direct experience with this, however, so I may be recalling incorrect information, etc. Can you shed some light on this?

My understanding is, if you do nothing, the fender (or perhaps more accurately the fender brace) will hit the cover. Once again I've been told that all that is necessary is to rotate the lower front fender mount downward. This would require drilling 2 new holes, and leave 2 holes to be plugged, so a purist might not want to do it, but then a purist wouldn't be mounting a tonti motor in a loop frame anyway.

Now if you look at a California II front fender (granted tonti frame), they have a flat spot hammered into the fender, I hope that isn't necessary as mine is chromed and might flake.

Other issue. I have heard of folks using a welded spool onto the loop frame to do what I have done with my links. While I was jigging all this up, I put a tonti drive train in my loop frame, and installed only the rear trans mount and battery tray. I supported the front of the motor with a jack. I figured I'd use the alignment of the fins with the lower rail (from the rear of the oil pan forward up to the 3rd oil pan bolt they are parallel nicely), to get the output shaft alignment correct. I wan't happy with that method, and I wish I had paid attention to the original output shaft alignment relative to the swingarm pivot, but never did. I figure to minimize stress on the ujoint, the output shaft of the trans should point directly dead center to the swingarm pivot (I mean centerline to centerline). Achieving this alignment, I realized that the front tonti motormount hole did not align with the crotch in the loop frame (this crotch is formed when the factory welds the front motormount onto the loop). Now to bring this story full circle and make a long story longer, back to the spool weld jobs. If the anecdotal evidence on fender clearance is based on folks using the welded spool method, their clearance might be different than mine. because I believe my motor mount bolt is lower than theirs... whew.

Now if I wasn't so lazy I get a tonti drivetrain back into the frame now that I hav my links, but I'm waiting till I have the motor and trans done, so I hopefully only have to do it once...

I invested $155 in my links, that included shortening and rethreading the front motor mount bolt (actually not a bolt, has a nut on each end). I'd be thrilled if someone would key up my plans (in the photo section) with the emachineshop.com cad software, so we could get an independent quote on these, because if I blew the dimensions, I'm looking at shelling out at least another $140...

Finally got my convert motor and trans done and bolted together. Got them up into the loop frame tonight, and finally got to check out how my new front motor hanger brackets did as far as output shaft alignment. I'm pleased to report that it looks great.

The first shot show the alignment. the convert output shaft is hollow and threaded. I screwed a long bolt into it, and the picture shows how the output shaft axis is co-planer with the swing arm pivot axis (the bolt exactly splits the pivot pin holes). this is key to minimize stress on the u-joint.

Output shaft alignment: I threaded a long bolt into the convert output shaft. You can see it aims dead center to the swing arm pivot.Output shaft alignment: I threaded a long bolt into the convert output shaft. You can see it aims dead center to the swing arm pivot.

This second shot shows the front timing cover with the alternator cover installed. It shows how I'll have to lower the lower fender mount as a minimum to get the fender to clear the alternator cover.

Hanger bracket, fender, alternator cover: A shot of the tonti motor to loop frame hanger brackets, and the needed fender bracket re-route.Hanger bracket, fender, alternator cover: A shot of the tonti motor to loop frame hanger brackets, and the needed fender bracket re-route.

Also if you look at my plans, you'll notice the mounts are asymetrical side to side. I was a little concerned about this, but the result is my motor sits dead center in the frame, so I'd say that at least for my frame it was the right way to go. My machinist, JVE of Greenville South Carolina, made these brackets for me, and could no doubt make some for you.

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Breather box - a look inside

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Okay, armed with the knowledge of those who have gone before me, and a little wariness on my part, I set out to disable the flapper valve and replace it with the ball valve. Here's my tale...

I removed the breather and had a look up the pipes...the largest diameter pipe is the one that contains the flapper valve. I checked it with a screwdriver and it seemed to work fine. I blew in it and it also seemed to work just fine. But, says me, I've got this nifty new ball valve just begging to be installed. So, out comes a hammer and screwdriver and I easily disable the old spring loaded flapper valve.

As I look inside, I can see the spring that held the flapper valve closed. I tip the breather upside down and the spring falls into my hand. Easy.

Now for the flapper itself...it is very similar to a fender washer and is larger in diameter than any of the pipes. There was nothing holding it in place and is now freely rattling about the breather as I shake it.

Hmmmm...do I really need to get it out of there?

I lie down on my back on the garage floor with the breather in one hand and a flashlight in another hand. I start rattling and shaking the breather and, low and behold, I can get the flapper to block pipes.

I'm really not concerned about the large inlet pipe, as incoming air pressure will simply move the flapper out of the way. Furthermore, the inlet pipe sticks up above the base of the breather - so I doubt it would ever get popped on top of there.

But, the smallest pipe - the oil return line - is flush with the bottom of the breather. I can easily rattle the breather around and get the small pipe completely blocked. This would be disastrous on the road as all of the oil pumped into the breather would be expelled to the pavement...in a hurry. This may not be likely, but it certainly could happen.

I try - in vane - to remove the flapper. I just can't get a good grip on it with any of my needle nose pliers. Plus, it's pretty thick metal (like a washer) and would be very difficult to bend and then pull out.

At this point I'm pretty much convinced that I've just trashed my breather. So, I do want any curious loop-o-phile would do. I cut the breather open with a hacksaw and take a look inside. :>

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Breather box - hose sizes

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• Inlet hose (right side): ID = 18 mm (~ 11/16"); Length = 60 mm (~ 2 3/8")
• Return hose (middle): ID = 8 mm (~ 5/16"); Length = 60 mm (~ 2 3/8")
• Atmosphere hose (left side): ID = 14 mm (~ 9/16"); OD = 17 mm (~ 11/16"); Length = approximately 600 mm (~ 24")

  Thanks to K. Ross Raymond who posted the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

  It is somewhat difficult to source an atmosphere hose with the proper ID and OD that is also oil tolerant. Here is one source for such a hose: Pelican Parts part number N-020-371-1-M21.

  Thanks to Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for providing this alternative.

  I bought a length of silicone rubber hose from McMaster-Carr. Kinda' of a brownish-black color, slips right up onto the breather box snug, thin wall so should fit into the bracket no problem. I don't use the bracket, but a vinyl covered "P" clamp from NAPA attached to the lower right bellhousing bolt instead.

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Breather box - how to get the washer out

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When dissabling the stock breather valve (to use a different style check valve), in my opinion it is very important (read: vital) to remove the spring and washer inside.

Thanks to Kim Schick who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Kim's own words:

I need to chime in on the breather box thread that was going on a while back...

A Dremel tool cuts an excellent "piggybank" slot on the bottom of the box and lets you fish the "washer" out.

Brazing the slot allows for powder coating, but JB Weld works just as well (so far at least) as long as you're doing the paint thing.

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Clutch plate / intermediate plate alignment

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If you have ever replaced the clutch plates, you know that you have to be careful during reassembly to align the inner teeth on the clutch plates and the outer teeth between the intermediate plate and the flywheel. Failure to do so will result in a bent intermediate plate and/or clutch plates that are difficult to engage with the clutch hub from the transmission. Doing this by hand without a special tool can be tedious.

If you remove the clutch hub from the transmission, you can use it to align the inner teeth of the two clutch plates. As for aligning the intermediate plate, what you really need is some way to compress the springs before installing the ring gear so that you can visually see the teeth engaging properly. Fortunately, the end of the crankshaft is threaded and you can use a long bolt through the center of the clutch hub for just this purpose.

The only thing tricky about the bolt is it's somewhat unique size: 12 mm x 1.5 mm x 70 mm (1.25 mm and 1.75 mm are the common thread pitch sizes).

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Clutch push rod tube seal installation

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The following file demonstrates the proper direction by which to install the clutch push rod tube seals.

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Cylinder head guard end caps

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It is not uncommon for the end caps (plugs) at each end of the tube to become lost, thereby allowing water, dirt, etc. into the tube - eventually rusting it out. Plus, it just doesn't look as nice. After considerable searching, I found suitable replacement plugs at my local Ace hardware store. The 3/8" black plastic plugs fit snuggly inside each tube, and the top of the plug just covers the outside diameter of the tube.

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Cylinder head work

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When I lived in Minnesota, I had Dick Snyder of Dick's Porting work on my heads. He did a great job and charged a very reasonable rate. I recommend him without reservation.

Dick's Porting
16445 Valley Drive Northwest
Anoka, MN. 55304
(763) 427-7195

Dave Otis recommends:

Automotive Parts and Machine
900 East Patrick Street
Frederick, MD. 21701
(301) 663-8866

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Cylinder material identification

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There are three different types of cylinders that are commonly found on these bikes. Here is how to identify each:

• Chrome - The material will appear shiny and smooth. Hash marks should not be visible. Absolutely no magentic pull. Peeling be may evident exposing the bare aluminum below.
• Steel sleeved - A ring where the sleeve was inserted will be clearly visible from both the top and bottom. The material will appear less shiny than chrome. Hash marks may or may not be visible. Very strong magentic pull - just like placing the magnet on anything else that is steel in your shop.
• Nikasil/Nigusil - The material will appear shiny. Hash marks will most likely be visible. Has a slight magnetic pull; certainly not as strong as steel, but definitely a little pull. If the cylinders were made by Gilardoni (aftermarket only, I think), then the Gilardoni logo will be placed between the bottom two fins at the 6 o'clock position nearest the base gasket (visible from the outside).

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Cylinder stud o-ring locations

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Guzziology tells you where to put these little o-rings, but there always seems to be some confusion. So here it is again:

1. Put the base gasket against the block.
2. Put two of the o-rings on top of the base gasket. They go on the two shorter studs, the ones at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
3. Put the cylinder on.
4. Put the head gasket on the cylinder.
5. Put the head on.
6. Put the remaining 4 o-rings under the rocker arm tressel. They go on the four longer studs.
7. Put the rocker arm tressel on.

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Cylinder stud o-ring size

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The size of the 12 o-rings (6 per side) used to seal the cylinder studs is approximately 9.6 mm to 10 mm ID x 1.6 mm to 1.8 mm Thick (I've seen several sizes in that range sent to me by dealers). Viton o-rings are best, but Buna-N work just fine and are a lot cheaper. Make sure to purchase an o-ring that is sufficiently soft...something with a Shore A Hardness rating = 70 is great.

Here is one place where the inch equivalent will work perfectly fine (and is probably what some dealers are using and sending out, anyway). Just use the Dash size -012 with a Shore A Hardness rating of 70. These are 0.364" ID x 0.070" Thick and will work perfectly fine. McMaster-Carr item number 9452K21 (Same as 9452K342) works great.

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Displacement - ways to increase it

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Alright, I'm just learning about this, so the information presented here is certainly not expert and does not come from direct experience. That being said, I believe it to be accurate and - of course - useful.

Upgrading a 700 cc or 750 cc to 850 cc

There are at least two ways to do this...one utilizing a long stroke crankshaft and one using a short stroke crankshaft.

Long stroke 850 method

This is simpliest of the two methods in that it involves direct replacment of parts. Here is what is involved:

• Replace the short stroke crankshaft (70 mm stroke) that is stock in the V700 and Ambassador models with an long stroke crankshaft (78 mm stroke) that is stock on the Eldorado models.
• Replace the existing pistons and cylinders (80 mm bore on V700 or 83 mm bore on Ambassador) with pistons and cylinders from an Eldorado (83 mm bore). Ambassador pistons cannot simply be reused as the wrist pin is in a different location from the Eldorado pistons. However, Ambassador cylinders can be reused.
• Connecting rods can be resused across models.

Short stroke 850 method

This is method can be more complicated as machining of parts may be necessary. Much of this information was gleaned from Mike Tiberio off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. Here is what is involved:

• Method 1
  • Bore the case to accept the 950 cc cylinders
  • Keep the existing short stroke crankshaft (70 mm stroke)
  • Install pistons and cylinders from a 1000 cc engine (88 mm bore)
  • Keep the same connecting rods and shorten the cylinders, studs, and pushrods
• Method 2
  • Bore the case to accept the 950 cc cylinders
  • Keep the existing short stroke crankshaft (70 mm stroke)
  • Install pistons and cylinders from a 1000 cc engine (88 mm bore)
  • Run longer connecting rods and do not modify the cylinders, studs, or pushrods
• Method 3
  • Bore the case to accept the 950 cc cylinders
  • Keep the existing short stroke crankshaft (70 mm stroke)
  • Install pistons and cylinders from a 1000 cc engine (88 mm bore)
  • Use special extra tall pistons and keep the same connecting rods and do not modify the cylinders, studs, or pushrods
• Notes from Mike Tiberio
  • Of course there are compression ratio factors to take into account as well, Convert etc pistons are already low compression, and this would lower it further (good for mexico). A lot of work, but if you have a 950 cc case, Pete Roper can get the long rods, and then it ends up quite manageable. On my old short stroke 850 race motor, I went the stock rod route. I went with what I had at hand, in retrospect, I'd get a set of long carrillos...
  • One real benefit of a short stroke motor is an improved rod length to stroke ratio. Little known fact that the longer the rod relative to the stroke the more power. Less power wasting piston slapping.

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Engine (and transmission) removal

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There are several good ways to remove the engine and transmission from the bike. Personally, I've had very good luck with the following technique:

1. Place the bike on the center stand. Wrap a strap or rope around the center stand and tie it to the front wheel in such a way that the bike cannot roll off the center stand. I also usually fit a 4" x 4" chunk of wood under each center stand leg. The extra height facilitates the removal of the rear wheel and makes everything a bit easier to work on.
2. Remove rear wheel, rear drive, rear brake linkage, and swing arm.
3. Remove tank, seat, side covers, battery, and starter.
4. Remove mufflers. The head pipes can stay in place but you'll want to loosen them up just a bit so you can pivot them out of your way to gain access to the rear transmission bolt and shift linkage.
5. Remove air box and both carbs. You can either remove the carbs from the intakes OR remove the intakes from the head. Either way will work. I leave the cables connected and let them dangle out of the way.
6. Unhook the clutch cable and remove the battery tray.
7. Remove the wire going to the neutral switch and - possibly - a grounding wire connected to one of the transmission cover bolts.
8. Loosen - but do not remove - the front engine mounting bolt.
9. Support the rear of the engine with a jack just enough so that you can loosen and remove the rear transmission mounting bolt.
10. Remove the foot pegs and shift linkage.
11. Remove the nuts that secure the transmission to the engine (bellhousing).
12. Wrap a couple of rags around the front down tubes OR fit water pipe insulating foam around the down tubes OR fit plastic shower curtain rod covers over the down tubes OR...just find someway to protect the frame :>
13. Jack up the jack under the rear of the engine as high as it will go.
14. The engine and transmission will pivot upward in the frame. Do not allow the cylinder head fins to come into contact with the front down tubes (we are trying to leave the paint on the frame).
15. Slide the transmission off the engine and withdraw it from the bike.

The complete clutch assembly is now fully exposed and work can be performed on everything inside the bellhousing. If I want to go the extra step and remove the engine, I follow this same technique. Then, I do the following:

1. Remove the wires for the oil pressure sending unit, generator, and ignition coil.
2. Remove the generator; the generator bracket can be left in place.
3. Block up the engine so that you can remove the front engine bolt; remove the front engine bolt.
4. With a helper on one side (my wife) and me on the other, we both lift the engine (by the cylinder heads) so that the bottom clears.
5. Then, my wife slowly lets go and the engine pivots toward me as I raise my cylinder head...clearing the top frame tube and the bottom frame rails.
6. I take a step or two back and set the engine right on the ground.
7. This last step - with my wife helping - takes less than 5 minutes of her time in the garage.

This process requires removing more pieces than some other techniques. But, the pieces are all easy to get off and the net benefit is more pieces that - for me - require less time and work. How long does it take me to remove an engine? Almost always less than 2 hours (my best time is 45 minutes - but that was in a frustrated, caffeine indused frenzy that I don't care to repeat). Assembly always takes longer. Probably 4 hours is a good estimate on assembly for me. Okay, there you have it...one more technique to consider when you do the deed :>

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Engine displacement

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Engine displacement in cubic centimeters = Bore in cm × Bore in cm × 0.7854 × Stroke in cm × Number of Cylinders

Engine displacement in cubic inches = Cubic cm ÷ 16.39

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Engine out? Check these things

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If you've gone to all the trouble to remove the engine from your bike, you might as well check and replace as necessary the following items (it sure beats taking the engine out again).

Top of the engine

• Install studs (instead of bolts) to secure the generator mounting bracket. Loctite in place. More information on what to do is described in the "Electrical components" section: Generator bracket

Timing chest

• Front main seal.
• Timing cover gasket.
• O-ring behind the crankshaft timing gear.

Inside the bellhousing

• All clutch components.
• Rear main seal.
• Rear main flange gasket.
• The two 12 mm aluminum crush washers that connect the small steel oil return line from the breather to the bottom of the bell housing.
• The gasket for the plate to which the large steel inlet line from the breather connects at the top right of the bell housing.
• Replace the 6 bolts that attach the flywheel to the harder 10.9 grade black oxide bolts; size: 8 mm x 1.25 mm x 25 mm.
• Replace the 3 metal strips under the 6 flywheel bolts with 6 Schnorr safety washers; size: 8 mm. When you examine the new washers, you will notice that they are not flat, but have a slight cone shape to them. After examining the documentation on the Schnorr web site, I've determined that the convex portion (arched outward) of the washer should face the head of the bolt. Correspondingly, the concave portion (indented) of the washer should face the flywheel.
• Be sure to use blue loctite on the flywheel bolts and torque to 30 foot pounds.
• Be sure to use a sealant on the two bottom rear main flange securing bolts. These bolts go all the way through to the inside of the engine case and will leak oil if not sealed. I use a sealant such as Three Bond 1194 Semi-drying liquid gasket.
• JB Weld the cam plug. The cam plug is notorious for leaking oil. If I can see one, I fix it. I rough it up with a bit of sandpaper, clean it up well with carb cleaner, and then apply a nice thick coating of JB Weld. Make sure to get a good coating of JB Weld especially at the joint between the plug and the engine case. The inlet pipe to the breather box is positioned very close to the cam plug. Often times I'll need to give the inlet pipe a little squeeze with a pair of pliers to get it to clear the additional thickness of the JB Weld. I've been asked if the cam plug should be replaced or removed and JB Weld applied to the surface that interfaces with the case. I've never tried it that way. But, I've heard that it can be very difficult to get a new cam plug in. I'm doubtful an existing cam plug could be reused once removed. The "patch on top" method seems to hold up very well.

  
  Location of cam plug within the bellhousing.Location of cam plug within the bellhousing.

  
  Location of cam plug within the bellhousing.Location of cam plug within the bellhousing.

  
  Cam plug that has been sealed with JB Weld.Cam plug that has been sealed with JB Weld.

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Front main seal cross-reference

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The size of the front main seal (MG# 90403850 or MG# 90403851) is 38 mm ID x 50 mm OD x 7 mm Width.

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Gilardoni Vittorio S.p.A.

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Thanks to Mauro from Rome, Italy for posting this information on the GuzziTech news group. Here is the contact information for Gilardoni.

Gilardoni Vittorio S.p.A.
Viale Costituzione, 32
23826 Mandello del Lario (LC)
ITALY

Phone: +39 03417071
Fax: +39 0341707215

E-mail: gilardonicilindri>at<gilcil.it
Website: http://www.gilcil.it

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Nikasil plating services

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It is nearly always a better value to simply purchase complete Gilardoni Nikasil plated piston and cylinder kits (complete with wrist pins, rings, and circlips). But, if the size you need is no longer available, then a Nikasil plating service may be your only alternative. Here are a few services.

• Bore Tech
• Harpers Moto Guzzi
• Langcourt
• Millennium Technologies - Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing uses this company recommends them highly. I had (Mar 05, 2008) an existing nikisil plated cylinder replated by Millennium Technologies (a broken ring stripped the original plating). I was very happy with their work.
• US Chrome

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Oil filter addition

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For some time now I've wanted to add an oil filter to my Ambassador. When I ran across the complete kit from Escher (item number 989042), I decided I couldn't live without it. After sending them the main oil line complete with the oil pressure valve, I waited patiently for the package to arrive.

When it arrived, I was quite impressed. Here are some photos, installation instructions, and my review of the kit.

Installation instructions for in the rear mounted oil filter (for V7 models) without engine modifications

Thanks to Hans Rosenstein for assisting with the translation from German to English.

I. Preparation

Remove the oil pan and the main oil line with the integrated pressure relief valve which runs lengthwise.

II. Move the old wire mesh oil filter downward

Materials: an aluminum spacer ring which is the same diameter as the old wire mesh oil filter; two aluminum tube spacers; two screws (8 mm x 65 mm in length); aluminum syphon extension with one-sided cone.

Warning: Do not use a hammer to install these components - especially avoid hitting the oil intake. If you do not heed this warning, you will cry!!!

1. Disassemble and clean all of the components of the old wire mesh oil filter
2. At the oil intake: Clean the inside of the vacuum hole making sure that it is free from oil; Insert the cone end of the syphon extension into the vacuum hole of the oil intake; use "high-strength" screw locking adhesive.
   
   Note:
   The syphon extension must sit firmly in the intake.
   The lower end must form an even surface with the spacer tubes.
   Fitting the cone requires precise work!
3. Fit the spacer ring (with the groove downward) on the oil intake, where the wire mesh sat before (if necessary, some or all of the four ribs of the oil intake may be filed down; alternatively, slots may be filed in the spacer ring that match the four ribs).
4. Push the cleaned wire mesh onto the groove of the spacer ring; next, secure the wire mesh oil filter and the spacer ring using the old oil filter seal plate and the two provided screws (6 mm x 45 mm in length) and spacer tubes.

III. Final assembly

Install the intermediate ring with the new integrated main oil line using one of 2 oil pan gaskets. Use the original two 8 mm bolts to secure the free end of the oil line at the front of the engine and the provided 8 mm bolts to secure the new pressure relief valve at the rear of the engine; reuse the two old lock plates (torque: 26 Nm).

Note:

Use high strength loctite on the bolts that secure the oil line, only during final assembly so that when installed, the connections are tight and exact. All sealing surfaces must be parallel to each other. Do not forget the additional gasket for the pressure relief valve. It is easiest to separate this gasket from the oil pan gasket so that it can be installed independently. Install the oil pan using the included bolts (6mm bolts, torque: 10 Nm). If the steel rails are installed under the oil pan, the two rails that interfere with the new oil filter will have to be shortened.

1. Install the oil filter and fill the crankcase with oil (approx. 3.5 liters / 3.7 quarts). Exchange the dipstick for a longer version. Check the oil level after a short test ride.
2. Start the engine and check for leaks; watch your oil pressure!

Have fun riding!!

Review of the Escher oil filter kit

Dec 26, 2005: I finally carved out a Monday morning to install the Escher oil filter kit. I found the installation straight forward, but it is certainly NOT a "bolt-on" kit. Modifications are required. Some I expected from the instructions, others were dissapointing:

• The extension ring for the oil pick up definitely has to be modified to fit on the existing oil pick up. I chose to file groves in the ring rather than modify the original oil pickup. It didn't take long to do, but I felt like it should have already been done by the machinist.
• Rather than use loctite and split washers for securing the oil line with the 8 mm bolts, I chose to use Schnorr washers without loctite. They work fine and you don't have to worry about the loctite stripping out threads in the aluminum block.
• The supplied longer bolts for securing the oil pan to the block were too long. The kit contained 75 mm bolts whereas 70 mm bolts are needed. The 75 mm bolts bottom out in some holes. I temporarlly added a few flat washers under each bolt head until I acquired the 70 mm bolts.
• The biggest dissapointment was the sump extension itself. It is too wide to fit within the frame. You'll notice in the photos there are three ribs that run the length of the sump spacer. I had to grind down the topmost rib completely to allow adequate clearance for the frame. This was not a big job with my $10 Harbor Freight handheld grinder, but the sump spacer should have been right in the first place.

Other than these shortcomings, I am very pleased with the kit. It does not leak (indicating that the sump spacer portion is flat and parallel) and the oil filter only protudes a little bit below the bottom of the oil pan.

I realize that the kit only filters oil going to the rear main bearing, but I'm fine with that. It is a whole lot better than no filter and required much less downtime than an internal filter addition would have required. That being said, if I had any loop frame engine dissassembled, I would definitely take the time and spend the money to install an internal filter (as Dave Richardson describes in Guzziology).

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Oil pressure gauge

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I initially wanted to temporarily connect an oil pressure gauge so that I could do a little investigation into my bottom end components. Once I got it finished, I decided to leave it on. Here is the process that I went through. Please read this entire section as I made important discoveries along the way.

My initial set up

Things to consider:

• The threads in the block are 12 mm x 1.5 mm. In the US, the commonly available oil pressure gauges come with 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT adapters. Rather than permanently modify the case, I purchased an adapter that has a 12 mm x 1.5 mm male end and a 1/8" NPT female end.
• Things are a little tight around the generator bracket (or alternator bracket, in my case). Rather than struggle with the tight quarters, I extended everything up 4" with a 1/8" NPT brass pipe.
• A 1/8" NPT brass Tee is the perfect way to connect both the mechanical oil pressure gauge and the stock electrical oil pressure switch. In order to attach the stock electrical switch, drill out one end of the tee with a 13/32" drill and tap to 12 mm x 1.5 mm.
• I pushed the small diameter white plastic line through an appropriate length of 5/32" ID black vacuum hose to give it a little protection and to make it less noticeable.
• The gauge I used is not waterproof. But, it can be made very water resistant by liberally waxing the face of the gauge - taking special effort to push the wax under the bezel.

Parts list:

• ISSPRO R7962 Adapter (12 mm x 1.5 mm x 1/8" NPT).
• Watts Anderson-Barrows A-721 pipe nipple (1/8" NPT x 4"); available in the plumbing aisle of most hardware stores
• Watts Anderson-Barrows A-704 female pipe tee (1/8" NPT); available in the plumbing aisle of most hardware stores
• Sunpro (Actron) CP8206 mechanical oil pressure gauge and included fittings

Photos:

My intermediate set up

Things to consider:

• I decided to modify my initial set up for a couple of reasons. First, it was unsightly. Second, I wanted far fewer connections and, thus, far fewer places for potential leaks. The heart of my new set up is an old NOS Murphy swichgage that I purchased on ebay for less than USD $10.00. The thing I like about the Murphy gauge is that it combines a switch and a gauge into a single device. I was able to run a single, simple line from my engine block to my gauge, then hook up the electrical wire for the oil pressure indicator light. Furthermore, I am able to set the minimum oil pressure at which the oil light will illuminate. Very simply and very cool.
• Important Note: I originally tried to use a ISSPRO R7962 Adapter (12 mm x 1.5 mm x 1/8" NPT).
  The adapter comes with a rubber o-ring that is *supposed* to securely seal the adapter to the block. I trusted it and it worked flawlessly for over 250 miles. Then, in an instant, hot oil was being pumped past the o-ring at an alarming rate. Do not underestimate the mess this will cause all over your bike or how nervous you will be for the next 1000 miles as you wonder what damage you did to your engine. Still trying to use the purchased adapter, I attempted to get it to seal properly to the engine block with an aluminum crush washer. This failed, too. There simply isn't sufficient sealing surface on the adapter to get the job done. Don't waste your time trying to use this adapter. Make your own!
  
  To make my adapter, I started off with a 12 mm x 1.5 mm bolt, drilled it clear through with a smaller sized bit, then drilled and tapped the head with a 1/8" NPT tap. Using a bolt provides a great sealing surface for the aluminum crush washer.
• I have found that teflon tape on the threads tends to disintegrate with heat and use. Make your connections seal without it.

Parts list:

• One 12 mm x 1.5 mm bolt. An odd size, to be sure. Rather than spend half a day scrambling around town looking for one, I purchased a box full from McMaster-Carr.
• Sunpro (Actron) CP7554 nylon tubing kit
• Murphy swichgage oil pressure gauge

Photos (I still have some more work I want to do to improve the appearance of the mounting bracket):

My final set up

Things to consider:

• I decided to modify my intermediate set up to get rid of the plastic tubing. So, I took careful length measurements and went down to Amazon Hose in Tampa, Florida and had them build me a braided stainless steel hose for less than USD $30.00. In the process, they also replaced the adapter. I wish I had gone there in the first place and not messed with all of time consuming homemade solutions I had come up with. Oh well, live and learn.

Parts list:

• #4 male JIC x 12 mm x 1.5 mm steel male metric thread adapter
• #4 .187 ID 3000 PSI stainless steel braided/teflon hose
• Stainless steel 1/4 inch Female JIC for #4 hose (this is the fitting that connects the hose to the adapter)
• Stainless steel 1/8 inch MP with collar for #4 hose (this is the fitting that connect the hose to the gauge)

Photos:

Bill Cohoon's set up

Bill Cohoon sent me this photo of his oil pressure gauge mount.

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Oil pressure sending unit

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The Italian company Facet manufactures the oil pressure sending units used on all Moto Guzzi Big Twins since 1967. I do not know if they have always been the manufacturer, but I believe them to be the current manufacturer. Here is the vital data specific to this switch:

• Facet part number 7.0033
• Threads: 12 mm x 1.5 mm
• Tip diameter: 4 mm
• The latest replacements require a 21 mm wrench. Earlier versions required a 22 mm wrench.
• The pressure that activates (grounds / earths) the switch is 0.25 BAR (3.6 PSI).

Similar oil pressure sending units (same threads, different activation pressure and wire connector) from Facet include the following:

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Oil pressure sending unit cross references

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Although not identical tot he original, the following oil pressure sending units have worked well for me (and are readily available).

• GP Sorensen 36-5028 available from Advance Auto Parts
• Mileage Plus OP6065SB available from Napa

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Oil pump gear - woodruff key

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A woodruff key (MG# 91701232) is used to lock the oil pump gear to the shaft on on the oil pump (on all timing gear models - timing chain models use a rectangular key).

The size of the key is as follows:

• Style: Full Radius
• Key Number: 207
• USA Standard Number: 302 1/2
• Nominal Key Diameter: 5/16"
• Width: 3/32"
• Length: 0.311"
• Height: 0.140"

A suitable replacement is available from McMaster-Carr. Search for part number 98525A060.

If you need one, let me know as I've got plenty. greg>at<thisoldtractor.com

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O-ring for special top cylinder nut on V700 models

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The size of the special o-ring used to seal the top cylinder nut on V700 models is 12 mm ID x 3 mm Thick. Viton o-rings are best, but Buna-N work just fine and are a lot cheaper. Make sure to purchase an o-ring that is sufficiently soft...something with a Shore A rating = 70 is great. McMaster-Carr item number 9262K266 or 9262K41 works great.

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Piston rings - alternative sources

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• Deves - I've used these and they work well. Part number MC-152 for V700. Part number MC-121 for Ambassador. Part number MC-125 for Eldorado.
• Total Seal - I've not tried these, but I hear they are quite good. NOT compatible with Nikisil.

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Prime the oil pump

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Any time the engine oil is allowed to drain completely from the oil pump (like when you remove the oil pump from the timing chest), it is very important that the oil pump be primed again before operation. If the oil pump is not primed, it is very possible that it will cavitate and your engine will die a quick, painful, and expensive death. I've heard more than once that the toughest time for an engine is immediately after rebuild...before the engine oil gets circulated. Of course, we all use engine assembly lube on our bearings during assembly. But, the vital oil still has to be pumped (and the sooner the better).

Sometimes the pump can be primed simply by removing both spark plugs and cranking the engine over for 30 or 45 seconds. You should see the oil pressure light go out. But, many times this technique is not enough.

Instead, you may need to crack open one of the banjo bolts securing a high pressure oil delivery line running to either cylinder head. Doing so allows the oil pump to move the oil to a location with very low resistance to flow. To get a picture of what is happening here, imagine filling a drinking straw half way up with water. Now, place your finger over the end and try to blow the water out. It can't be done unless you give the air some place to go. A similar thing is happening inside the engine. But, with the banjo bolt cracked open, you should see oil get pumped out of the line when you crank the engine over (again, with both spark plugs removed).

If you still don't see oil coming from the banjo bolt, you can pressurize the sump. Shove a plug in the oil breather tube pipe (I find a 3/8" drive extension fits nicely), remove the dipstick, and use compressed air (using the blower attachment and your air compressor) to push the oil through the oil pump and out the banjo bolt. You can use a rag to make a tight seal around the dipstick hole. Remember, you are not trying to inflate the crankcase like a baloon and turn it into an 8 cylinder. Only pressurize it a bit (20 PSI should be plenty) so that the oil is forced through the lines and out the banjo bolt. So, give it a little pressure and a little time and it will work. Once you see a good flow of oil, tighten the banjo bolt down. Then, crank the engine over to see if the light goes out. If all is well, install the spark plugs and fire it up.

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Rear main seal cross-reference

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The size of the rear main seal (MG# 90405367) is 53 mm ID x 68 mm OD x 10 mm Width. Viton seals with serrated lips are recommended.

• Corteco 12012561B (53X68X10/8)

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Timing gear replacement

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All V7 / V700, all Ambassador, and all but the latest Eldorado loop frames came with three timing gears; one each for the oil pump, crankshaft, and camshaft. Even a few early V7 Sports came with timing gears. My camshaft timing gear broke just north of Bemidji, MN (but that's another story). In the process of replacing the gears, I have learned the following:

• The gears must be replaced as a complete set. Do not be tempted to just replace one gear.
• Not all gears are the same. I've seen the following configurations:
  • Oil: 31 teeth; Crankshaft: 26 teeth; Camshaft: 52 teeth and 5 dowel pin holes; white paint marks. This is the configuration in my Ambassador. I'm not sure, but I think it was the standard configuration that was used in the V7 Sport (1407-1700). Even within this tooth count, there are differences between the gears. My original camshaft timing gear had smaller holes than my replacement timing gear (not the dowel pin holes, but the large holes bored simply to remove weight/add a little flex).
  • Oil: 29 teeth; Crankshaft: 25 teeth; Camshaft: 50 teeth and 6 dowel pin holes; red paint marks. I'm not sure, but I think this was the standard configuration that was used in the Ambassador and Eldorado models (1307-1700).
  • Really fine teeth on all gears (I have no count, but I'm told the camshaft gear has nearly 140 teeth). I'm not sure, but I think this was the standard configuration that was used in the V7 / V700 models.
• If you are going to get a replacement set of timing gears, be sure to count the teeth on your existing gears and get a set that has the same number of teeth. If you don't, you'll most likely have to time your valves.
• Replacement is straightforward and pretty easy. Just follow these steps:
  1. Do not remove the engine. This procedure can easily be done with the engine still in the frame.
  2. Drain the engine oil. If you don't, it will run out the front of the timing gear cover.
  3. Remove the three bolts that secure the generator cover.
  4. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley.
  5. Remove the big nut on the end of the crankshaft. The nut takes a 26 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a prybar wedged in to the ring gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning. You might as well remove the starter, anyway, because you'll need to stick a bar in the ring gear to prevent the crank from turning when you torque the nut back on.
  6. Remove both the outer and inner pulley halves. Keep track of how many shims are placed between the two halves so that you don't have to figure it out again on installation. Remove the generator belt, too.
  7. Remove the front engine mounting bolt. You'll probably want to support the front of the engine a little bit with a jack...but even if you don't, the front of the engine won't sag very much at all.
  8. Remove all of the 6 mm bolts that secure the front of the timing case to the block. Again, if you have an impact wrench, use it.
  9. Remove the timing case cover. You may think it is necessary to remove the skid plates (oil sump guard plates) in order to remove the timing cover, but it is possible to gently tilt the cover away from the block and remove it.
  10. IMPORTANT: Before you remove any gears be sure that the following painted marks are present:
      • The oil pump gear does not need any markings.
      • The crankshaft gear should have a single painted mark on one tooth. This mark should engage between two painted teeth on the camshaft every two revolutions of the crankshaft. Verify that it does.
      • The camshaft gear should have two painted markings. One mark should be on the inside set of dowel pin holes. The hole through which the dowel pin is currently located should be marked with paint. The other mark should be two gear teeth that meet with the mark on the crankshaft gear every two revolutions of the crankshaft (one revolution of the camshaft).
      • IF THESE MARKS ARE NOT PRESENT, PUT THEM THERE!
  11. Remove the big nut on the end of the camshaft. The nut takes a 26 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a prybar to prevent the camshaft from turning.
  12. Remove the nut on the end of the oil pump. The nut takes a 13 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a prybar to prevent the camshaft from turning.
  13. Using a gear puller, remove all three gears. Mine came out very easily.
  14. Transfer the markings from the original gear set to the new gear set:
      • The oil pump gear is the easiest, as no markings are required.
      • The crankshaft timing gear is fairly simple. Just stack one on top of the other, align the key way, and carefully transfer the mark from one to the other. In my case, both crankshaft timing gears shared the same mark.
      • The camshaft timing gear requires special attention. The workshop manual describes how to do this using a special tool. Since I didn't have the special tool, I used a piece of stiff non-corrugated cardboard, the dowel pin from the end of the camshaft, and a socket that fit quite nicely into the center whole of the camshaft. Using your original camshaft timing gear, carefully cut out holes for the center hole and dowel pin hole. Then, with the cardboard in place over the gear, carefully cut out the marked gears. Now that you have an accurate template of your existing camshaft timing gear, try each dowel pin hole on the new camshaft timing gear until you get precisely the correct alignment. Then, mark the dowel pin hole and the two teeth with paint.
        
        Take your time doing this and get it right. If you don't, you will have to go back in and do it all over again.
        
        When creating my template, since my camshaft timing gear was in four pieces, I used a length of electrical tape to hold the pieces in their original position.
        
        Unlike the crankshaft timing gear marks, the original markings on my broken and my replacement camshaft timing gears were NOT the same...they were off by several teeth. So, don't simply trust that the markings are correct, make them so!
        
        Although tedious, this procedure is far easier than re-timing the valves.
  15. Installation is the reverse, but be sure to do the following:
      • Install a new timing cover seal (make sure to grease it before you install it).
      • Install a new o-ring between the crankshaft and the crankshaft timing gear.
      • When installing the timing gears, be certain that the number 2 cylinder (the one on the left) is at top dead center on the compression stroke (both valves closed). The keyway in the crankshaft will point toward the number 2 cylinder. The camshaft dowel should be at about 11 o' clock. Then, just be sure to line up the painted marks.
      • Torque the crankshaft and camshaft nuts to 108 foot pounds. Torque the oil pump nut to 22 foot pounds. Insert a prybar in the flywheel (through the hole left by the removed starter) to prevent things from turning.
      • Install the pulley so that the left most mark is in line with the keyway on the crankshaft.

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Valve cover removal and installation

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If you do any work at all on these bikes, even if just to polish the valve covers, you will grow quickly tired of removing and reinstalling the eight Allen head bolts using the standard "L" shaped Allen wrench. I make my life easier with two tools: (1) I use a 5 millimeter "T" handle Allen wrench to do the initial loosening and final tightening of the bolts, (2) I made a customized Allen bit for my cordless drill. Essentially, I cut the short end off of an old 5 millimeter "L" shaped Allen wrench. I chuck the long end of the "L" in my cordless drill, set the torque to it's lowest setting, and run the bolts in and out very quickly. I am careful to start the bolts by hand...I do not want to cross-thread the head!

If the valve cover is stuck when you try to remove it, do not pry it off. If you do, you are likely to tweak it and may never seal right again. Instead, using a rubber hammer, tap it on it's side.

I grease both sides of my valve cover gaskets when I install them. I think it makes it easier to remove them later.

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Valve timing

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First off, let me state that it is very possible to time the valves with the engine still in the frame (regardless of what the Guzzi or Chilton manuals state). Here is how I did it:

Checking the valve timing

1. The engine must be stone cold.
2. Remove the left valve cover.
3. Set the tappet clearance for the exhaust valve to 0.5 mm (0.0195 in).
4. Remove the generator belt cover.
5. Place the number 2 cylinder (left cylinder) on top dead center on the compression stroke. You can do this using one of two methods:
   • Aligning the arrow on the timing chest cover with the left most timing mark on the pulley. If you have any doubts that your pulley is properly aligned with the crankshaft, use the next method.
   • Using the piston stop method (see special tools and methods below).
6. Remove the outer half of the pulley and the belt.
7. Attach the degree wheel (see special tools and methods below) so that 0° is inline with the crankshaft keyway and the left most mark on the pulley.
8. Note: The number 2 cylinder should still be on top dead center on the compression stroke. Accuracy is critical here, so take your time.
9. Attach a stiff piece of wire (see special tools and methods below) to one of the bolts on the timing chest and bend the wire so that it is accurately aligned with 0° on the degree wheel.
10. Now, using a 26 mm socket on the nut at the end of the crankshaft, rotate the engine 122° in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise as you face the front of the engine; counterclockwise as you sit properly astride the motorcycle). At 122° the exhaust valve on the number 2 cylinder should just come into contact with the rocker arm. That is, the 0.5 mm free play should just be taken up as the valve just begins to open.
11. If you've been accurate and this is the value that you get, then your valves are properly timed according to Moto Guzzi specifications.
12. Be sure to reset the tappet clearance for the exhaust valve.

Setting the valve timing

1. The engine must be stone cold.
2. Drain the engine oil.
3. Remove the exhaust header pipes (not totally necessary, but makes life somewhat easier for the short time required to remove them).
4. Remove both valve covers.
5. Set the tappet clearance for the exhaust valve on the number 2 cylinder (left cylinder) to 0.5 mm (0.0195 in).
6. Remove the rocker arms for both intake valves and the exhaust valve on the number 1 cylinder (right cylinder).
7. Remove the generator belt cover.
8. Remove the nut on the end of the crankshaft.
9. Remove both halves of the pulley and the belt.
10. Remove the keyed plate to which the pulley bolts.
11. Support the front of the engine and remove the front engine mounting bolt.
12. Remove the timing chest cover.
13. Replace the keyed plate to which the pulley bolts.
14. Replace the nut on the end of the crankshaft and tighten securely (I use a prybar wedged into one of the teeth on the ring gear - with the starter removed).
15. Remove the camshaft timing gear and the associated dowel.
16. Attach the degree wheel (see special tools and methods below) so that 0° is inline with the crankshaft keyway.
17. Attach a stiff piece of wire (see special tools and methods below) to one of the bolts on the timing chest and bend the wire so that it is accurately aligned with 0° on the degree wheel.
18. Place the number 2 cylinder (left cylinder) on top dead center using the piston stop method (see special tools and methods below).
19. Once I have the piston at top dead center, I like to readjust my pointer wire so that it points directly at 0°. This isn't mandatory, but makes life easier and it reduces the possibility of mathematical errors.
20. Note: The number 2 cylinder should still be on top dead center on the compression stroke. Accuracy is critical here, so take your time.
21. Now, using a 26 mm socket on the nut at the end of the crankshaft, rotate the engine 122° in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise as you face the front of the engine; counterclockwise as you sit properly astride the motorcycle).
22. Do not rotate the crankshaft any more until after you have the camshaft timing gear properly installed.
23. Rotate the camshaft counterclockwise (as you face the engine) until the lobe contacts the push rod and takes up the tappet clearance slack for the exhaust valve on cylinder 2. You should be able to rotate the camshaft by hand.
24. Now fit the camshaft timing gear back onto the camshaft in such a manner so that you don't have to rotate the crankshaft or the camshaft and the dowel can be inserted smoothly. This will take trial and error as you try the various dowel pin holes.
25. With the camshaft timing gear properly fitted, you may want to refit your intake rocker arm on cylinder 2 (with tappets adjusted to 0.5 mm) and observe both of your valves opening and closing at the proper positions on the degree wheel (see the workshop manual for specific positions).
26. Once you are certain that you have everything correct, mark the gear teeth and dowel pin hole with paint for future reference.
27. Button everything back up and you should be good to go.

Special tools and methods you will need (and they're cheap!)

• Degree wheel
  • A degree wheel is needed to determine precisely where the piston is located within it's 360° rotation.
  • The Machinery Cleanery has a number of free degree wheels that are of excellent quality. Simply print out, paste to a piece of cardboard, cut out, and attach to the keyed plate to which you normally bolt both pulley halves on the crankshaft. Be sure to attach the degree wheel with at least one bolt as it must be in sync with the crankshaft. I believe in overkill, so I attached mine with all three bolts!
  • Furthermore, I was careful to drill one of my bolt holes in line with the 0° - 180° marks on the wheel (I just used the bolt holes on a pulley half as a template). When attaching the degree wheel to the keyed plate, I made sure that this bolt hole was lined up with the key in the keyed plate. By doing this, the 0° mark on the degree wheel will be approximately inline with the standard pulley timing mark for top dead center. This step is not necessary, but I found that it help me keep my sanity.
• Stiff length of wire
  • A stiff length of wire (like from a clothes hanger) is needed to create a "pointer" for the degree wheel. You will attach one end of the wire to a bolt on the engine case, the other end will be bent to point accurately at the degree wheel.
• Piston stop
  • A piston stop is any device that prevents the piston from going all the way to top dead center.
  • Although ready made piston stop tools are available, I made due with a spark plug that had very long threads (a Champion RE14PLP5). But, any 14 mm bolt with a 1.25 mm thread pitch will work. Here's how it works: with the piston NOT at top dead center (just feel with a screwdriver), screw the piston stop (spark plug, in my case) into the spark plug hole and tighten. Next, rotate the crankshaft clockwise VERY SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY until the piston comes into contact with the piston stop. Write down the value that is shown on the degree wheel. Then, repeat the procedure by rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise. Again, write down the value that is shown on the degree wheel. Top dead center is the mid point between these two values.

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Windage plate

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This is my first-ever windage plate.

A little background: The purpose of a windage plate (in my rudimentary understanding) is to greatly reduce oil being whipped up into a mist by all of the rotating parts in the crankcase (crank and pistons, mostly). By doing so, the oil remains more seperated and you'll have less oil coming out of the breather tube under hard driving conditions (like extended high speed interstate operation). This only works if the windage plate is positioned ABOVE the oil line...which on the V700, Ambassador, and Eldorado requires a sump extension (which I have). After adding the sump extension on my Ambassador, I noticed a decrease in the amount of oil being pumped out of the breather tube. The addition of the windage plate has further decreased my oil loss.

Important note: Any time a sump extension is added to a loop frame engine, the oil pick up must also be extended to reach the new, lower oil level.

The first photo shows the plate by itself on a yellow background...so you can easily see the holes. The remaining photos show the plate mounted on an old engine block I have. The purpose of the large hole extending from the oil pick-up is for the dipstick and for the oil return from the breather.

For the most part, I'm pleased with the outcome. I would, however, make the following changes with subsequent plates:

• I did not transfer the holes for the oil return from the timing chest...and later had to elongate the holes as you can see in the photos. Poor planning on my part and next time I'll mark carefully.
• The "two rows of three holes" you see together...those I would switch to be only one row of three holes and position those in the middle of the existing holes. I think the one hole is too close to the large cut out. I'm also not entirely sure I need those holes at all...but I copied my design from those posted by Pete Roper and Ed Milich...so I put them there trusting their experience and knowledge. After further contemplation, I believe the purpose of those holes is to prermit oil to drain back down into the sump when the bike is parked on its side stand...oil tends to puddle forward and to the left. Given my current understanding, I would add three holes close the edge of the sump.
• I used 0.050" thick aluminum sheet as the material. It was easy to work with, but had a tendency to bend if my jig-saw caught it wrong when I was cutting it. Ed Milich used 0.100" thick aluminum sheet for his material and I bet he didn't have this trouble. I have not had trouble with the plate cracking (after 3,500 miles of use).
• I might consider making smaller, individual holes for the dipstick and the breather return line...so I can prevent more windage.

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