Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, Eldorado, 850 California - Miscellaneous

Bearing retaining compound recommendations

Updated: 2008 May 21

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Bearing retaining compounds made by companies such as Loctite® or Permatex® are wonderful products. Although their use is not always necessary, here is where I might use bearing retaining compounds:

Green (bearing retaining)

• Carrier bearing to swing arm [AS NEEEDED]
• U-joint to carrier bearing [AS NEEEDED]
• Each bearing race within the transmission [AS NEEEDED]

Bearing sources

Updated: 2008 May 27

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Here are a few places for you to look. Some I've used and some I haven't.

• Emerson Bearing. Contributed by Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle in a personal email.
  201 Brighton Avenue
  Boston, MA. 02134
  (617) 782-1400
  (800) 225-4587
  (800) 252-1996 (Fax)
• McMaster-Carr
• Motion Industries
• Maryland Metric
• Obsolete Bearing. Contributed by Jean Drohé in a personal email.
  Unit 5, Holland Business Park
  Spa Lane, Lathom, Lancs, UK, L40 6JG
  + 44 (0) 1695 720481
  + 44 (0) 1695 50111 (Fax)
• South Shore Bearing Distributors, Inc. Contributed by Jay Duval in a personal email.
  111 Copeland Street
  Quincy, MA. 02169
  (617) 471-7800
  (617) 479-9192 (Fax)

Books

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Moto Guzzi history and information

• 80 Years of Moto Guzzi Motorcycles by Mario Colombo; ASIN: 8879112198
• Illustrated Moto Guzzi Buyer's Guide by Mick Walker; ISBN: 0879389885
• Moto Guzzi Big Twins by Greg Field; ISBN: 0760303630
• Moto Guzzi Gold Portfolio 1949-1973 by R. M. Clarke; ISBN: 1855203790
• Moto Guzzi V-Twins: The Complete Story by Mick Walker; ASIN: 1861261802
• Moto Guzzi: Forza in Movimento by David G. Styles; ISBN: 0760310041
• The Moto Guzzi Story: Racing and Production Models from 1921 to the Present Day by Ian Falloon; ISBN: 1859604145

Books about improving your riding skills

• Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well by David L. Hough; ISBN: 1889540536
• Street Strategies: A Survival Guide for Motorcyclists by David L. Hough; ISBN: 1889540692
• More Proficient Motorcycling: Mastering the Ride by David L. Hough; ISBN: 1931993033

Buyers check list

Updated: 2010 Jun 03

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This is a check list of things to evaluate when you are considering yet another loop frame basket case. Bob Greene provided this to me…originally created by Dave Otis.

Item	Is it there Y/N	Condition	Notes	Estimated cost	Actual cost
Frame
Seat
Swing arm
Swing arm mounts
Swing arm bearings
Rear axle
Shocks
Driveshaft coupling
Driveshaft
Rear drive
Universal joint
Carrier bearing
Rear wheel
Rear brake assembly
Brake rod
Brake cross shaft
Brake pedal
Shifter pedal
Shifter linkage
Foot pegs
Motor mount bolts
Motor mount spacers
Rear fender
Taillight bracket
Taillight
Rear turn signals
Rear turn signal bracket
Tool boxes
Tool box locks
Tool box keys
Regulator bracket
Regulator
Flasher
Starter
Starter solenoid
Battery tray
Battery hold down
Gas tank
Front fork tubes
Triple tree
Fork covers
Fork springs
Front fender
Fender braces
Front axle
Front wheel
Front brake assembly
Wheel cover
Headlight
Headlight rim
Fuse blocks
Instrument panel
Speedometer
Tachometer
Ignition switch
Wiring harness
Starter button
Starter button bracket
Clutch lever
Brake lever
Clutch cable
Brake cable
Handlebars
Handlebar mounts
Throttle control
Hand grips
Light switch
Turn signal switch
Front turn signals
Front turn signal mounts
Side covers
Side cover knobs
Generator cover
Generator
Generator mount bracket
Carburetors
Throttle cables
Choke lever
Choke cables
Coil
Coil bracket
Distributor
Distributor cap
Transmission
Oil breather
Clutch springs
Clutch intermediate disc
Clutch friction discs
Flywheel
Starter ring gear
Throw out bearing
Clutch shaft
Clutch lever on transmission
Engine case
Oil pan
Front cover
Crankshaft
Main bearing front
Main bearing rear
Rods
Pistons
Jugs
Rings
Heads
Valve covers
Oil pump
Oil line outside
Bolts to mount the oil line
Oil strainer
Oil lines inside
Breather tubes
Timing gears
Timing chain
Timing chain tensioner
Push rods
Lifters
Rocker arm assemblies
Intake manifolds
Exhaust pipes
Exhaust pipe nuts
Exhaust pipe to frame brackets
Mufflers
Muffler clamps
Rear foot pegs

Conversions (fractions to English to metric)

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Conversion chart

Life became much simpler for me when I purchased a English/Metric Dial Caliper. But, converting fractions to decimals in my head is not something I enjoy doing. So, I created a little conversion chart that I keep inside my caliper case.

Convert software

Josh Madison has a wonderful freeware conversion tool: Convert

Google calculator

Google can perform an amazing number of conversions right in the search bar: Google calculator

Cruise control

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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I've wanted some type of cruise control or throttle lock for some time, but I wasn't sure what to use that would work. I tried using the Throttle Rocker (see review on this page), but it turned out to be worthless. My Dad uses a twist-assist (the kind that stick into the end of the handlebar), but that wouldn't work with my bar-end mirrors. I finally decided to go with the Sound Off Safety (SOS) Vanda-Cruise and ordered one from a generic motorcycle parts house online.

SOS stopped making the Vanda-Cruise years ago. The replacement is called the Vista-Cruise and is made of plastic instead of chromed metal. You'll probably have a hard time finding a Vanda-Cruise (the parts house I purchase mine from sold me their last…and the package had plenty of shelf wear).

The Vanda-Cruise came in three models: B (3 1/2" arm), HKY (2 3/4" arm), and ST (2 1/2" arm). The model I got was the ST and was supposed to be for Suzuki, Triumph, and pre-79 Moto Guzzi motorcycles.

Unfortunately, my 1972 Moto Guzzi Ambassador did not fall within the "pre-79 Moto Guzzi" category as defined by SOS. What I really needed was the model B with the 3 1/2" arm (neither the 2 3/4" nor the 2 1/2" arms are long enough to clear the throttle and clutch lever). But, since it was unlikely that I would be able to find a B model, I decided to make my ST model work. Here is what I did:

• Replaced the 8/32" bolt that connects the 2 1/2" arm to the throttle collar with a longer bolt. I used a few nuts and washers to align and stiffen things properly.
• Replaced the three 8/32" set screws that connect the throttle collar to the throttle with longer set screws.

That's it! All it took was a quick trip to the hardware store and about 30 minutes of install time.

Follow-up: I removed the Vanda-Cruise entirely. In the end, I found it a little too cumbersome for my taste. Instead, I'm using the spring-loaded throttle adjustment screw that Guzzi built in from the beginning. I'm able to set it just tight enough to keep the throttle from closing…and just loose enough to allow me to operate it conveniently. I'm happy with this set up and don't think I'll ever change.

Crush washer sizes

Updated: 2008 Jun 15

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Thanks to Charles Hamer for sending me this information.

• Aluminum crush washer for bolt covering the hidden allen nut securing the cylinder head (MG# 95100709):
  20 mm x 28 mm x 2 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for drain plug on engine and fill plug on engine, transmission, and rear drive: (MG# 90714195):
  20 mm x 28 mm x 2 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for level and drain plugs on transmission and rear drive (MG# 90714101):
  10 mm x 20 mm x 1 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for banjo bolts oil lines to cylinder head (MG# 12154200):
  8 mm x 14 mm x 1 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for pipe oil pressure sending unit (MG# 12006400):
  12 mm x 20 mm x 1 mm
• Fiber washers for gas tank petcocks (MG# 90714123):
  12 mm x 20 mm x 1 mm

Cutting hardened tools

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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When building my tool kit, some of the tools I purchased were too long to fit in the tool boxes (7" is a good rule for overall length, although it is possible to angle longer pieces). Hardened tools can be very difficult and time consuming to cut with a hacksaw. In the past, I have even resorted to grinding them apart, but that tends to take a while and ends up rounding the corners of my grinding wheel.

I now use a metal cutting disc attached to my grinder. The disc is 1/8" thick and 7 1/4" in diameter with a 5/8" arbor hole. The maximum RPM is 8,600, so my 3,600 RPM grinder doesn't even come close. The disc does a great job and doesn't seem to wear too quickly. I cut 2 wrenches and 2 adjustable wrenches and only used a few millimeters - and it was quick and easy! Vermont American manufactures the disc I used (model number 28077).

Follow-up: I now use a metal cutting chop saw to cut most any steel that I have need to cut. It works a treat, is super fast, and is much safer than my previous methods.

Fasteners (nuts and bolts)

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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I originally found a spreadsheet with this information on the internet. Bob Greene informed me that Dave Otis originally created this file. I've updated some of the information and some data remains to be updated. To the best of my knowledge, metric fasteners (with a hardness rating of 8.8, except for the six flywheel bolts that use black oxide bolts with a hardness rating of 10.9) are used exclusively except for Lucas parts. Lucas parts (fender reflectors and turn signals) use standard size fasteners.

Gasket removal

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Up until the Winter of 2003, I removed gaskets using blunt blades, careful application of razor blades, and constant worry about gouging the soft aluminum mating surfaces. But, while perusing an aisle at the local auto parts store, I picked up a can of Permatex Gasket Remover 80646. This stuff worked very well and made my life much easier. Essentially, I just needed to apply the spray, let it set for a few minutes, and rub off the gasket material with a rag or paper towel. It is a good idea to have some ventilation when using this product.

Looplifter

Updated: 2009 Jul 27

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Tom Short's "Looplifter"

Tom Short provided these pictures of his "Looplifter". The 'Looplifter' fits right inside the existing 'lips' on the jack.

My copy of Tom Short's "Looplifter"

Having purchased a Craftsman motorcycle jack (Sears item #00950190000 - purchased on sale for USD $69.99), I created my own version of the "Looplifter". I used scrap iron I had leftover from another *failed* project. Specifically, I used 1" angle iron for the rectangular frame and 3/4" angle iron for the support that comes into contact with the bottom rail of the motorcycle frame. I chose to make each support adjustable by welding two 5/16" nuts at each corner. I also drilled a hole through the bottom of each corner so that the 5/16" bolt could screw through the bottom of the rack. As you can tell, I'm not a professional welder, but it is strong.

the jackthe jack

removing the rubber padsremoving the rubber pads

rubber pads removedrubber pads removed

Looplifter bolted to jackLooplifter bolted to jack

Looplifter bolted to jackLooplifter bolted to jack

close up of adjustable support, electrical tape used to protect frameclose up of adjustable support, electrical tape used to protect frame

Looplifter painted blackLooplifter painted black

Charlie Mullendore's "Looplifter"

Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle provided these pictures of the "Looplifter" the he was given by Pat Galbraith. The "Looplifter" is of unknown origin.

Bill Dudley's "Looplifter"

Thanks to Bill Dudley who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Bill's own words:

I wanted a bike lift that didn't monopolize the shop, especially if it wasn't in use. I decided that a left over 2' x 8' piece of 3/4 inch plywood flooring would work, providing it was strengthened. I sourced two 8' pieces of 2"x2" square steel tubing from the local metals shop. I determined they would be strong enough by standing on one of them and noting the deflection with my 190lb on it - not much, like 1/2".

I bolted the steel tubing to the sides of the plywood, using eyebolts in four locations so I'd have someplace to attach tie-downs. At one end of the platform, I put a scrap of 2x10, so that when the platform is sitting on the floor, it forms a ramp, where the middle of the ramp is just high enough to fit the Harbor Freight bike jack. A couple of furniture dolly wheels on the 2x10 allow the thing to be wheeled about (when empty) if needed.

Since the Harbor Freight bike jack only goes about 17 inches high, I cut down two saw horses to just under that (16 3/4 inches or so). To make loading easier, I added a little wedge of rubber to the low end of the lift to avoid the 3/4" step.

To put a bike on the lift:

• Assuming platform is on the ground, put the HF bike jack under the center.
• Roll the bike onto the platform and into the wheel chock.
• Tie the bike down to the eyebolts on the platform.
• Raise the platform using the HF bike jack.
• Shove the little saw horses under the platform, approximately under the wheels of the bike.
• Lower the HF bike jack and remove and store it.

The platform can be stored on its side when in use so it takes almost no floor space.

Ambassador on lift, sans rear endAmbassador on lift, sans rear end

Detail of front wheel in Harbor Freight wheel chock, with saw horse supportDetail of front wheel in Harbor Freight wheel chock, with saw horse support

Detail of rear of lift on saw horse; note rubber rampDetail of rear of lift on saw horse; note rubber ramp

Harbor Freight bike jack about to slide under the bike platformHarbor Freight bike jack about to slide under the bike platform

Harbor Freight bike jack in position under bike platformHarbor Freight bike jack in position under bike platform

Rubbish tip chair ready to receive mechanicRubbish tip chair ready to receive mechanic

Machine work

Updated: 2009 Jun 17

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I've used each of these machine shops and have been very satisfied with the work performed and prices charged. These are not "boutique" machine shops. If you want a machine shop where you can sip your latte in a spotless lounge and pay inflated prices, look elsewhere. These are solid, trustworthy machine shops that do real work for real people.

Central Kansas

If you live in Central Kansas, Peter Aversa (a.k.a., Pistol Pete) is the man to see for all your machining needs. He has a well-equipped machine shop and I recommend him without reservation. Give him a call and let him know that my brother, Ted Bender, sent you.

Timbucktoo Machine
Owner: Peter Aversa
10003 South Hertzler Road
Sedgwick, KS. 67135
Phone: 316-772-0335
Google Map

Tampa, Florida

I had really good luck with the Napa Machine Shop. Knowledgeable personnel, good prices.

Napa Auto Parts
11716 North Florida Avenue
Tampa, FL. 33612
Phone: 813-932-0758

When I had my crankshaft turned, I used General Crankshaft. They did a top notch job.

General Crankshaft Company
Owners: Mike and Jack
2540 25^th Avenue North
Saint Petersburg, FL. 33713
Phone: 813-323-4205

Phoenix, Arizona

I've been using PB Machine Auto Machine & Supply. Knowledgeable guys with fair prices…and they know their way around a motorcycle. Ask owner Paul Bylbie about setting motorcycle speed records at Bonneville on his first trip!

PB Machine Auto Machine & Supply
Owner: Paul Bylbie
9625 North Cave Creek Road
Phoenix, AZ. 85020
Phone: (602) 997-2445
Cell: (602) 451-3661

Miles Per Hour Calculation

Updated: 2008 Apr 29

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I extracted this information from Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Charley's own words:

(RPM × 60 × Circumference of Rear Tire) ÷ (5280 × 12 × Overall Drive Ratio) = MPH

The circumference of the rear tire should be entered in decimal form and in inches.

Example…24 3/4", enter 24.75"

Circumference is 2 × 3.14 × radius of your tire. Measure with the tire/wheel absolutely vertical (check with level) from the contact patch (ground/floor) to the center of your axle.

The overall drive ratio is your primary ratio × your gear ratio × your final drive ratio. All of these values are in the factory manuals and also Guzziology.

You can use this formula to calculate your speed in any gear, at any RPM, with stock or non stock combinations of any gearbox, rear drive or wheel/tire size. It is useful to predict the effect of gearing changes such as a different rear drive ratio or to know your precise speed at any time. It is only accurate when your bike is vertical since your effective tire radius is reduced considerably at full lean due to the profile of your rear tire.

Model identification - frame numbers, engine numbers, and special codes

Updated: 2009 Dec 01

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I extracted some of this information from Paul Linn and Ralf Brinkmann on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

As is typical of Moto Guzzi, the following information is applicable to most models. However, it is likely there are exceptions.

V700

• Frame numbers: V700 frames do not have a VIN plate riveted to the steering head. Instead, the frame number is stamped directly to the steering head.
• Engine numbers: Engine numbers are stamped on the left side of the engine case.
• Build date: Since most V700 frame do not have a VIN plate, build dates are unknown.
• Matching numbers: Frame numbers and engine numbers do not match.

VIN on the frame of an V700 sold in Europe.VIN on the frame of an V700 sold in Europe.

VIN on the frame of an V700 sold in Europe.VIN on the frame of an V700 sold in Europe.

Ambassador and V7 Special

• Frame numbers: All frames have a VIN plate riveted to the steering head. This plate will show the frame number. The frame number is not stamped in the steering head.
• Engine numbers: Engine numbers are stamped on the left side of the engine case. Engine numbers are also stamped on the VIN plate riveted to the steering head.
• Build date: Build dates (month and year) are stamped on the VIN plate riveted to the steering head.
• Matching numbers: Ambassador models (imported to the USA) have matching frame numbers and engine numbers. V7 Special models (not imported to the USA) do not have matching frame and engine numbers.

VIN on the frame of an A-Series Ambassador.VIN on the frame of an A-Series Ambassador.

VIN on the engine of an A-Series Ambassador.VIN on the engine of an A-Series Ambassador.

VIN on the frame of an Ambassador.VIN on the frame of an Ambassador.

VIN on the frame of an Ambassador.VIN on the frame of an Ambassador.

Eldorado, 850 GT, and California

• Frame numbers: All frames have a VIN plate riveted to the steering head. This plate will show the frame number. The frame number is not stamped in the steering head.
• Engine numbers: Engine numbers are stamped on the left side of the engine case. Engine numbers are also stamped on the VIN plate riveted to the steering head.
• Build date: Build dates (month and year) are stamped on the VIN plate riveted to the steering head.
• Matching numbers: Eldorado and California models (imported to the USA) have matching frame numbers and engine numbers. 850 GT models (not imported to the USA) do not have matching frame and engine numbers.

VIN on the frame of an Eldorado.VIN on the frame of an Eldorado.

VIN on the frame of an Eldorado.VIN on the frame of an Eldorado.

VIN on the frame of an 850 GT.VIN on the frame of an 850 GT.

"VP" and star symbols stamped into engine cases

From Paul Linn:

The stars are there to prevent unscrupulous fellows from altering the numbers. The VP some believe stand for Version Polizia and I believe that all floorboard models came stamped with this designation.

VIN on engine block of an Eldorado with 'VP' and star symbol, photo courtesy of Paul K.VIN on engine block of an Eldorado with 'VP' and star symbol, photo courtesy of Paul K.

Frame and Engine Numbers

From Ralf Brinkmann:

The leading two letters of the serial number on frame and engine block reflect the Guzzi model:

• VS 00AA to VS 99SS: V7 700
• VM 00AA to VM 25EP: V7 Special
• VP 00AA to VP 58WH: 850 GT
• VP 11111 to VP 16230: 850 GT California

Moto Guzzi archive/history contact

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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If you've got a question that can only be answered by the Moto Guzzi historian/archivist, contact Gabriella Stropeni. Provide her with as much information as possible and photographs (especially of the VIN plate) are all the better.

O-ring sources

Updated: 2008 Jul 17

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Here are a few places for you to look.

• McMaster-Carr. They always seem to have what I need.

Polishing

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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A highly polished bike looks great. But, I hate to polish. I've been polishing aluminum since I was a kid working on my Dad's semi truck wheels. Back then, all the work was by hand and it seemed to take forever. Today, I've discovered some techniques and methods that make the job a lot easier. Sure, it will cost you a little bit of money up front to invest in these items, but you'll always be glad you did. My philosophy is to purchase the best possible tools for the jobs I hate to do the most…it makes those jobs a lot more bearable.

Chrome

• 0000 steel wool
• Mothers Chrome Polish
• TurtleWax Chrome Polish; I've found this to be just a good as Mothers - at a cheaper price
• Competition Chemicals Blue Away (specifically for exhaust header pipes)

Polished aluminum

• Start with this great "how-to" article.
• Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (I use this for all hand polishing)
• Tripoli compound - the red stuff (I use this with the buffing wheel for the first pass). Eastwood sells this, as well as many other companies.
• White Rouge compound - the white stuff (I use this with the buffing wheel for the final polish). Eastwood sells this, as well as many other companies.
• I do all of the buffing I can using a 6" buffing wheel on my bench grinder (with the safety shields removed). A dedicated buffing station would be better, but I haven't invested the money into one yet.
• For polishing wheels, I use a 2" mini buff connected to a mandrel that is attached by a flexible shaft to my drill press running as close to 3600 rpm as it can. The 2" size make it easy to get between the spokes and polish the entire rim (1 1/2" would be too small, 2 1/2" would be too big). Eastwood sells the 2" mini buffing wheels, 1/4" mandrels, 1/8" mandrels, and the flexible shaft. A die grinder could be used in place of the drill press/flexible shaft. John Ulrich recommended this to me.

Rough cast aluminum

• Zep Alum E Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics swears by this stuff. It is a little hard to come by, but he has begun selling it. Contact him directly.
• Eagle One Etching Mag Cleaner - etching solution "B" system (CAUTION: do not use on polished aluminum or you will have to polish it again). Cleans the engine and transmission cases very well. John Ulrich recommended this to me. You will need to use a wire brush to remove any corrosion, etc.
• Pat Galbraith recommended this: I usually use aluminum door cleaner on the engine cases and have always been asked how did I get them so clean. I normally found it at the local hardware store but its been so time since I bought a bottle. It comes in a gallon jug like milk comes in and you just apply it with a paint brush. If you decide to use this cleaner, ALWAYS clean from the bottom of the case and work your way up otherwise you will get streaks and be sure to do just small sections at a time.
• Timothy Bowser recommended this: Gel LimeAway works wonders. Buy it at a grocery store. Use a brush and just lather the case one side at a time. Don't let it sit too long. A few minutes is sufficient. This has got my Guzzi blocks exceptionally clean and didn't leave any residue.
• Tom Christian recommended this: Soak with a "paste" of water and Barkeepers friend (oxalic acid) and scrubbing, rinsing, repeat after I use zip strip to get the paint off. Lots of work, but it is looking better.
• If everything is apart, the engine and transmission cases can be treated with Sodium Silicate, baked in the oven. The product tends to remain in the pores, thus helping to prevent future stains. John Ulrich recommended this to me.
• 3M Scotch-Brite Heavy Duty Scour Pads (for inside the spokes on the wheel hubs). John Ulrich recommended this to me.

Paint

• Wizards Shine Master Polish & Breathable Sealant (removes swirls, shines)
• Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax - liquid

Plastic

• Meguiar's PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish

Seal sources

Updated: 2008 Jul 17

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Here are a few places for you to look.

• AnySeals. I've always been pleased with the quality of the seals and the prices. I call them first.
• Hercules Sealing Products. A bit of a limited metric selection, but good quality and prices.

Stainless fasteners

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Stainless fasteners really look nice - especially when polished. You could source all of your own stainless fasteners and polish them yourself. But, a less masochistic approach would be to purchase a set already polished. Stainless Cycle does just that, and at what I consider a very reasonable price. They do a great job of organizing and labeling all the fasteners so you know just where everything goes - no giant bag of bolts here. Their product and service is top notch and I recommend them without reservation.

Thread locking compound recommendations

Updated: 2008 Aug 16

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Thread locking compounds made by companies such as Loctite® or Permatex® are wonderful products. For loops, only the generic red (high strength) and blue (medium strength) are needed. Moto Guzzis do not suffer from excessive vibration. The mechanical design and quality construction are such that parts simply do not vibrate loose and roll down the highway. This means that thread locking compounds are not needed for most fasteners. There are a few exceptions, however. Here is where I use thread locking compounds:

Red (high strength)

• Sludge trap plug in the crankshaft

Blue (medium strength)

• Flywheel to crankshaft bolts
• Crown wheel to crown wheel carrier bolts
• The special bolts that screw into the distributor housing on which the distributor cap retaining clips pivot.
• Field coil securing screws for the generator.
• Field coil securing screws for the starter.
• Solenoid to starter body securing screws.

Titles - titling an untitled loop

Updated: 2010 Aug 20

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It can sometimes be difficult to obtain or transfer a title for our old machines. Many times, the presence of the "Manufacturing Date" on the VIN tag is different than the date the vehicle was originally titled. Ninety-nine percent of the time, there is absolutely nothing awry with either the vehicle or the title. But, just try explaining that your Ambassador was manufactured in October of 1971 and not titled by the dealer until 1972 to the narrow-minded buffoons down at the DMV who've never even heard of a Moto Guzzi. Suffice to say there are many legitimate reasons for using the following techniques to acquire a title for a loop frame.

International Title Service

The following is my experience with International Title Service when I used them to obtain a title for my Ambassador.

I had great difficulty in acquiring a Florida title for my Ambassador back in February of 2005. Since the year stamped on the VIN tag did not match the year on the title (manufactured in 1971, originally titled in 1972), the state of Florida refused to title the Ambassador until I corrected the "error".

So, trying to be a good little boy, I sent the title back to the state of Minnesota to have them correct the mistake. But, they won't make the correction because they didn't originally title the vehicle. I need to talk with the previous state in which it was titled, Kansas.

Still trying to obey the law, I call Topeka and they refuse to correct the title unless they can physically inspect the motorcycle. Even then, they can't guarantee that they'll be able to correct the title because they may not be the original state that titled the vehicle (and they won't do the research on that issue until after they inspect the motorcycle and start their process).

Finally, I took Skip Kologiski's advice and send off for a bill of sale from International Title Service (ITS). A couple weeks and $75 later I've got my bill of sale from the great state of Alabama!!

This time when I walk into the Florida DMV office, they inspect, tag, and register the Ambassador and send off for a title…no problem.

I'm now in possession of two titles for a single vehicle. I'm pretty sure that's "a hanging offense" in some countries, but I'm taking my chances and living on the lamb.

Good grief…this country is turning me into a liar and a cheat just trying to obey the law.

State of Vermont Titles

I extracted this information from Bill Dudley on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Bill's own words:

Here's how to get titles for old bikes with no time wasting middle man:

1. Go to Vermont DMV web site. http://dmv.vermont.gov/
2. Download forms and print them out. Here they are:
   Instructions
   Actual registration form
3. Fill out the form (just one side, call Montpelier if you need help)
4. Have local authorities (in NJ, it's the police) fill out a VIN verification form attesting that the VIN is what you say it is.
5. Write a check for title + sales tax. For our old Guzzi's, they will trust you to tell them the truth on how much you paid. For newer vehicles (1985+ ?) they use the Kelly Blue Book value so you can't get away with claiming you bought a 1990 Ducati for $200. KBB doesn't go back very far past 1990, so we're safe. Vermont sales tax is 6%.
6. Mail the completed forms and check to Vermont DMV.

In two weeks or so, you will receive a Vermont Registration and a green License plate in the mail. NO MATTER WHERE YOU LIVE! Basically, they are in it for the money, which is fine with me. Vermont does not title vehicles older than 15 years -- so our old bikes just get a reggie. Then, take your Vermont Reggie to your local DMV and tell them that you just brought the bike from VT and you want to title it in your state. In NJ, you now have a TITLE. (And NJ can be a real pain in the ass about this stuff.) I had to pay the sales tax difference, since NJ is 7%, I had to pay 1% sales tax plus the title charge to get my NJ titles.

I've just done this in NJ for a 79 Yamaha and an 84 Guzzi V65, and it has worked fine. (It helps if you get a DMV clerk who is not a jerk, however.)

If you have questions about the procedure, or how to fill out the form, just call the helpful DMV personnel in Montpelier and they will help you out. (802) 828-2000

This whole process will cost you WAY LESS than its-titles will charge you. Trust me.

This post is my revenge on its-titles for wasting my time and not being the least repentant about it when I called them up to complain. They couldn't give a rat's ass that they had wasted hours of my time filling out obsolete forms and waiting for them to just mail them back to me. Well, screw them!

Tool bags

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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I couldn't find ready-made, suitably sized tool bags, so I made my own to fit neatly inside each tool box. I made mine out of a pair of old blue jeans. Now that I have them, I can't believe how much more I can fit in the tool boxes. Plus, they are easy to fill and store inside each tool box. To keep them mostly waterproof, I enclose each in a gallon-sized zip lock bag. The pattern I used to create the tool bags is available below.

Follow-up: Since creating these tool bags, I find that I don't use them simply because they are not waterproof, take a long time to dry out, and keep moisture where I don't want it to be. I now stash all my tools in the bottom of my tank bag. I've also heard that small plastic cosmetic bags and U.S. Army Surplus canteen covers work well, too.

Tool kit (original)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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• 7 mm / 8 mm open-end wrench
• 10 mm / 11 mm open-end wrench
• 13 mm / 14 mm open-end wrench
• 17 mm / 19 mm open-end wrench
• 22 mm / 27 mm box-end wrench
• 5 mm allen / hex wrench
• Pliers
• Flat-tip screwdriver (special version used to turn the socket)
• Flat-tip screwdriver (standard)
• 19 mm / 21 mm / 22 mm socket (the screwdriver is used to turn this socket)
• Tappet adjusting tool (a small adjustable wrench would work, too)
• Feeler gauge in a small pouch
• Damper adjusting tool (for the rear shocks)
• Rider's handbook
• Tool bag (contained all of these tools)

Tool kit (substitutes for the original tools)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Original tools seem to get easily lost along the way and many machines no longer have them. Plus, original tool kits don't come up often on ebay and can be expensive. Here are things that can be used as substitutes:

• Metric stubby wrenches. Set includes 10 mm - 19 mm. Generally only the 10 mm, 11 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, and 19 mm are needed.
• One 7 mm wrench.
• One 8 mm wrench.
• One 22 mm wrench which I cut to 7" in length.
• One 1 1/16" wrench which I cut to 7" in length - takes the place of a 27 mm wrench, which I could not locate.
• One 5 mm "L" shaped allen / hex wrench
• One 6" slip joint pliers
• One 6" slotted screwdriver
• One feeler gauge
• One 13/16" spark plug socket. Amazingly, the box end of the 22 mm wrench fits the hex pattern at the end of the socket, so a ratchet is not required.
• One 6" adjustable wrench

Tool kit (what I carry)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Here is what I always carry (covers both my Ambassador and my Quota):

• Original 7 mm / 8 mm open-end wrench
• Original 10 mm / 11 mm open-end wrench
• Original 13 mm / 14 mm open-end wrench
• Original 17 mm / 19 mm open-end wrench
• Original 22 mm / 24 mm box-end wrench (I've updated all of my axle nuts to require a 24 mm wrench)
• Original pliers
• Original tappet adjusting tool
• Original feeler gauge in a small pouch
• Ikon damper adjusting tool (for the rear shocks)
• Flat-tip / phillips reversible screwdriver
• One 6" adjustable wrench
• One 13/16" spark plug socket
• 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5.5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm allen / hex wrench
• Two spare spark plugs
• One spare spark plug cap
• Spare ignition points and condenser
• One Swiss Army style pocket knife
• Two 8-1/2" long tire irons
• One valve core remover
• One valve core
• A few zip ties
• A couple spare relays
• One spare oil pressure switch
• One tube of rubber cement
• Several inner tube patches and plugs
• One tire plug insertion tool
• A Slime power sport inflator
• One 12 volt test light
• One 6' length of 14 gauge electrical wire
• Numerous fuses, electrical wire terminals, hose clamps, replacement mechanical cable barrel ends, and spare nuts and bolts.
• Several disposable paper towels
• Several disposable latex gloves

On longer trips I also carry:

• Spare inner tubes
• Extra cables for the clutch, throttle, and brake

Wiring supply sources

Updated: 2008 Jul 17

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Here are a few places for you to look. Some I've used and some I haven't.

• British Wiring. Contributed by Rich Arimoto on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
• Rhode Island Wiring Service. Contributed by Michael Ittner and Danilo Gurovich on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
• Waytek Wire. I've ordered from them many times and always been satisfied.