Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, 850 California Police Body, tank, fenders, side covers, tool boxes
Parts, supplies & service
Table of contents
- Decals
- Disc brake front fender - brace reinforcement
- Disc brake front fender - fork mount measurement
- Fenders
- Fuel tank bushings
- Fuel tank cleaning and coating
- Fuel tank fitment on various frames
- Gas cap gasket dimensions
- Gas cap replacement
- Grommets used in the battery tray
- Grommets used in the headlight bucket
- Keys for tool boxes and fork lock
- Paint codes
- Painting
- Paint removal - before you blast…
- Petcock alignment
- Petcock alternative
- Petcock repair
- Pin striping tape
- Pin striping the tank - chrome panel
- Pin striping the tank - top rectangle
- Plating (Zinc)
- Powder coating
- Powder coating - what to do, what not to do
- Rear fender installation
- Side cover screw external retaining ring
- Side cover screws
- Tank holder
- Tool box lock rebuild
- Tool box lock replacement
Decals
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Tank, fender tip, and side cover decals can be hard to find. And, if you do stumble across some 30 year old “new” decals, they're liable to be next to impossible to actually use. Fortunately, John Prusnek has created brand new, high-quality decals that are very close to being exactly like the original silk screened version. I used them during my Ambassador restoration and I am very pleased with them. You can get all the information you need from John at his website.
Disc brake front fender - brace reinforcement
Updated: 2011 Jul 21
I extracted this information from Steve Odell on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Steve's own words:
I designed a weld on tab for a disk brake fender that when properly welded in place makes the brace thicker and wider in that area. My machinist made a couple of them for me cheap. Tigged them in place, repainted the fender and 5,000 miles later they are still fine. Not even a crack in the paint. The specs are below if anyone is interested.
Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Not the best pics as I did not remove the wheel and it is all dirty from a 1,400 mile ride that ended Sunday. But I think they show it.
As you can see with tig the welds are real smooth and with a little touch of dremel it doesn't look like it was welded. Also, you will see I have neoprene backed stainless washers and rubber washers sandwiching the brace. I do that on all sheet metal. No sheet metal ever touches other metal directly. That fender is also highly modified in other areas (the rear fender is too). It was a near perfect 74 fender to start with and I added welded straps inside on the areas where the front and rear struts bolt on and rewelded the center brace to the fender. The front fender lip for example, where the two oval strut mounting holes always rot out, is probably 3⁄16 in thick now. Then all voids were filled with a Ciba-Geigy epoxy that flows real well. It's looks like and sets up like JB Weld but more liquid initially. Dries hard as steel and holds paint real well. Then Steve Hill shot it on the inside with Rocker Shutz and painted and pinstriped it. He remarked at that time on all the mods. Said he had never seen that before but thought it was well done.
And for those that are wondering; the button head stainless bolts with stainless washers and nylocks are reversed because the nylocks I prefer to use are just deep enough to touch the rotor on the lower bolt when installed in the usual way.
I know this is all kind of excessive and I do have probably USD $500.00 just into one fender but I like things to last.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Brace reinforcement for the disc brake front fender originally fit to some Moto Guzzi Eldorado models.Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.
Disc brake front fender - fork mount measurement
Updated: 2008 Aug 18
I extracted this information from Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
The distance from the top of the upper fork mounting hole to the edge of the fender is exactly 4.5 in. This is from a 1974 Eldorado Police disk front.
This measurement is useful when converting a drum brake fender to fit on a disc brake front end.
Fenders
Updated: 2012 Jan 30
Front fender
The spare parts catalogs identify six different part numbers for the front fender. Except for two, these part numbers do not correspond to paint color or chrome finish. Rather, they identify physical differences that accomodate various fender reflectors and front brake configurations.
- MG# 12434300
I believe these fenders had no holes for fender reflectors. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 1st edition
- V7 / V700 2nd edition
- MG# 12434320
I believe these fenders added holes for the fender reflectors. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Supplement to V7 / V700 2nd Edition - Parts for 1st series 750 cc Ambassador only
- V7 / V700 3rd edition
- Ambassador 1st edition
- Ambassador 2nd edition
- MG# 12434325
I believe these fenders added a cable routing hole to the right side - to support the four leading shoe front drum brake. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- 850 California Police
- MG# 13494320
I have no idea how this part number is different from MG# 12434320 or MG# 12434325. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Eldorado 1st edition
- MG# 13434322
I believe this fender has repositioned braces for the disk brake forks (same as MG# 13434341 below). Color is identified as black with white trim. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Supplement to 850 Eldorado 1st Edition - Disc Brake
- MG# 13434341
I believe this fender has repositioned braces for the disk brake forks (same as MG# 13434322 above). Color is identified as white with black trim. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Supplement to 850 Eldorado 1st Edition - Disc Brake
Rear fender
The spare parts catalogs identify five different part numbers for the rear fender. These part numbers do not correspond to paint color or chrome finish. Rather, they identify physical differences that accomodate various tail light brackets, fender reflectors, and friction sirens.
- MG# 12437000
I believe these fenders were for the early tail light bracket. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 1st edition
- V7 / V700 2nd edition
- MG# 12437001
I believe these fenders were for the early tail light bracket and added holes for the fender reflectors. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Supplement to V7 / V700 2nd Edition - Parts for 1st series 750 cc Ambassador only
- MG# 12437020
I believe these fenders were for the later tail light bracket and added holes for the fender reflectors. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 3rd edition
- Ambassador 1st edition
- Ambassador 2nd edition
- MG# 13437020
I believe these fenders added holes for the turn signal bracket. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- Eldorado 1st edition
- MG# 13437040
I believe these fenders were relieved for the friction siren. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- 750 California Police
- 850 California Police
Fuel tank bushings
Updated: 2012 Mar 06
The fuel tank is secured to the frame using two long bolts: one at the front and one at the rear. While these bolts pass through “T” shaped steel bushings, the steel bushings are vibration insulated from the tank using corresponding “T” shaped rubber mounts.
Lubrication is your friend
When installing the rubber and steel “T” shaped pieces, I do so as follows:
- Fully lubricate all surfaces of both the rubber and steel pieces. I use WD-40 or a silicone spray lubricant.
- Insert just the tip of the rubber piece into the tank.
- Insert just the tip of the steel piece into the rubber piece.
- Push both pieces into place.
- Wipe off any excess lubricant.
- Done.
Do not bend the tank!
I believe the original design intent was that both the rubber bushing and the steel bushing be inserted from outside of the “tunnel” of the tank. Once the tank is fit to frame, the steel bushings should be in contact with the frame mounting points. The long bolts can then be inserted and fully tightened in place.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
However, I have seen numerous tank fitment examples where the steel bushings do not make contact with the frame mounting points when inserted from the outside. If fully tightened in this scenario, the tank itself is forced to bend in order for the steel bushings to make contact with the frame mounting points. It should go without saying that bending the tank to secure it to the frame is a very bad idea. Nevertheless, I've seen a bunch of bent tanks due to this exact root cause.
My preferred fix is to simply insert both the rubber bushing and the steel bushing from inside the “tunnel” of the tank. I've found that this takes up the excess free space and permits the bolts to be securely tightened without any deformation of the tank.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fuel tank cleaning and coating
Updated: 2010 Jul 14
Alternative
In Gregory Bender's own words:
The fuel tank on my Ambassador was showing signs of rust on the inside. So, prior to having it painted, I used a several stage system designed to (1) remove gum, sludge, and varnish, (2) remove rust and prepare the tank for the sealer, (3) seal the tank against any further damage. The kit worked great and I've had no problems. The kit even came with a patch for repairing holes or weak areas, but I did not use it and cannot attest to it's ability. I purchased the entire kit from a company called POR-15. They call it a “cycle fuel tank repair kit” .
Alternative
Thanks to Ken Giese for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
I picked up a gallon of horticultural molasses at a feed store. The 850T has a “collar” inside the fill hole which REALLY limits access and sight angles. Top to bottom filling really appealed to me considering the top of the tank was probably where the bulk of the rust was. I forgot to mention that I rinsed the tank out first with soap and water to loosen things up. I also shook some bb's around. A real hassle getting them out as the filler hole collar leaves drainage to the petcock holes. Plugged up those holes and filled ‘er up.
Nothing happened for a few days (molasses is a long process) but about the 3rd day I noticed the solution was draining out the top onto the floor. Topped it back up and even more on the floor the next day. Then it started “burping” every once in awhile. Obviously some sort of chemical reaction. I decided to put the cap back on and shake it up in case of settling. Wow. When I opened the cap it exploded out like a shook up cola bottle. What a mess, so a word to the wise. All said I let it set for about 10 days, drained it and rinsed with water. Bare metal. I was impressed!
After it dried, I sloshed around some phosphoric acid to prevent rusting until I add gasoline. Figure I can treat the tank again in a few years if desired rather than add a sealer.
Update:
My yearlong, slow restoration project is nearly complete; meaning that blasted tank sat with nothing in it and rusted again! Not bad, but more than flash rust. The phosphoric acid treatment only lasts so long by itself. So, this time I sealed it with POR-15 after researching the product and corresponding with their service dept. I again got the rust out with molasses. I didn't buy their kit, just the sealer. Terrific product. Yes, if the bike was ready to ride I could have just filled it with gas and been done with it as originally intended. Interestingly, POR-15 thought I'd be ok “naked” with a full tank of gas. But with the next step of painting and a planned Oct launch I like knowing it's sealed.
Alternative
Thanks to Greg Barratt of Stainless Cycle for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.:
Milkstone remover is sold in gallons and is very reasonably priced - about USD $7.00. Use about 1/3 gallon, and then fill the tank with water to the very top. Let it sit for a day or so (in the sun helps a little), empty it, rinse it, and dry it with a heat gun and a little alcohol. The phosphate leaves a coating to inhibit rust. The solution also can be re-used. Just filter the crud out, and bottle it up.
You can get milkstone remover at Tractor Supply Company. Dairy farmers use it to clean their milking equipment.
Alternative
Thanks to Kevin Hahn of Scrambler Cycle for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
I can get a gallon of phosphoric acid for about $7 at the local farm store. Its labeled as pipeline cleaner or milkstone remover.
Works good as a rust remover but don't get it anywhere near aluminum. That includes the petcock. It will eat that away in a couple of days. For badly rusted tanks I will fill it with a mix of the acid and water and let it sit. Sometimes I will put some nuts and bolts or a length of chain it it to knock some of the stuff loose. Every time I walk by it I'll give it a shake.
Alternative
Thanks to Greg Field for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
Milkstone remover for dairy bulk tanks. Available at Fleet Farm-type stores. Or OSPHO, available at good hardware.
Alternative
Thanks to Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
Charlie followed the instructions presented at Ken French's Electrolysis Setup. Here are a few notes and several photos from Charlie.…
- You want Arm & Hammer “Super Washing Soda” which is normally found at the supermarket in the aisle with the laundry detergent. Comes in a yellow box. Here's where I found the procedure in the first place: http://650rider.com/Content/pid=6.html I bought two large (5 gallon?) plastic buckets to mix the solution in and to drain it back into when done. Used a large plastic cup to transfer the solution from the bucket to the tank.
- I've had no reoccurence of rust so far, but it is winter (low humidity) and I do keep the tank full as much as possible.
- The rubber plugs were purchased at the local Ace Hardware, any good hardware store should have them. I've seen them in the hardware section of the local Lowe's. You want the black rubber not cork ones. The small ones are 3⁄8 in at the smaller end, 9⁄16 in at the larger end. The big one is 1.5 in at the smaller end and 1.75 in at the larger end. I used a 3⁄32 in drill bit to make the holes in it for the sacrificial anode.
Sacrificial anode.Placed into the tank. Tank filled with a solution of Arm & Hammer Washing Soda water.Electricity supplied by battery charger. 12 volts, 6 amps.Anode after 8 hours.Final cleaning of the tank. Drained the solution, then flushed thoroughly with the pressure washer.Clean metal. Two large bottles of rubbing alcohol are next, sloshed around to disperse any remaining water.Drying the tank. Drained the alcohol, then used the heat gun on low to dry the insides.Following Charlie's lead, I now use this electrolysis technique prior to any coating. It works very well. Here are a couple notes from my personal experience.
- If you cannot find the Arm & Hammer “Super Washing Soda” , just look in the pool section of your hardware store for Soda Ash (which is sodium carbonate). Soda ash is used to raise the pH level in swimming pools and is inexpensive.
- I found coat hangers would disintegrate pretty quickly (I use a power supply). So, instead, I used bicycle hanging hooks (for hanging a bicycle from the rafters in a garage) that I purchased from the local hardware store inexpensively. It is really nothing more than a thick rod and they last a long time.
- Keeping the tank in a horizontal position and filling it to the brim with the solution will still leave the underside of the top of the tank exposed. I found it necessary to carefully rotate the tank to ensure that all parts are submerged during electrolysis.
Alternative
Thanks to Lannis Selz for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Lannis' own words:
After years of fighting fuel tanks, trying to clean old braze out of seams to get a clean weld, experimenting with sealers, trying to figure out how to get the old sealer out (because it never seems to hold), I found Moyers Fuel Tank Renu and will never go back.
Having a known-good fuel tank is important to me, I hate leaks, I hate fires, I hate little stringers of goo in my jets stopping me in the rain on a long trip. And since it's something you only have to do ONCE per fuel tank if it's done right, it's worth it.
Moyers takes your tank, plasma-cuts the bottom out of it, bakes it at 800° F to burn all the old goop and solder out, fixes all the seams and leaks with MIG or TIG welds as needed, straightens it out, welds it back up, grinds and handworks the seam so you can't see it, seals it with some sort of red sealer that never quits, gives the outside a coat of primer, and sends it back. My last tank was USD $290.00 for this treatment; I've never had one leak or fail after all this…
Fuel tank fitment on various frames
Updated: 2012 Mar 05
Fitting a V700 tank on an early V700 frame
Fitment should be straightforward — no special considerations are required.
Fitting a V700 tank on a late V700 frame
Fitment should be straightforward — no special considerations are required.
Fitting a V700 tank on an Ambassador or Eldorado frame
Fitment should be straightforward — no special considerations are required.
Fitting an Ambassador or Eldorado tank on an early V700 frame
This combination causes a several challenges that are difficult to overcome. While those with superior fabrication skills may choose to make the necessary modifications, I chose to source a completely different frame when I encountered this problem on a build that was 99% complete. Oh the lessons in life I've learned the hard way…
- The easiest to address problem is the position of the coil. The V700 mounts the coil perpendicular to the frame, whereas the Ambassador and Eldorado mount the coil parellel to the frame. The exisiting coil “perpendicular” mount must be removed from the frame and a new “parallel” mount welded to the frame. The bracketry is simple to fabricate.
- The very difficult problem to address is that the upper triple tree plate will hit the tank if the handlebar is turned even slightly from straight forward. The fix is to relocate the tank further back along the backbone of the frame. Of course, this will necessiate moving the seat further back and — potentially — the side cover mounts as well. This problem cannot be solved by switching to a later (non-V700) top triple tree plate (I tried) nor by permitting the tank to sit directly on the top of the frame backbone (I tried this, too).
Fitting an Ambassador or Eldorado tank on a late V700 frame
This combination causes a small challenge that is relatively easy to address:
- The V700 mounts the coil perpendicular to the frame, whereas the Ambassador and Eldorado mount the coil parellel to the frame. The exisiting coil “perpendicular” mount must be removed from the frame and a new “parallel” mount welded to the frame. The bracketry is simple to fabricate.
Fitting an Ambassador or Eldorado tank on an Ambassador or Eldorado frame
Fitment should be straightforward — no special considerations are required.
Gas cap gasket dimensions
Updated: 2011 Aug 15
Civilian flip-top gas cap
60 mm OD × 36 mm ID × 3 mm thick (1⁄8 in thick material works well)
Gas cap replacement
Updated: 2011 Aug 15
Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.
I had the police style cap on my Ambassador (just a round cap, no lever). Although my gasket was good, I kept getting leaks through the venting mechanism. I kept hoping to be able to get a NOS or good used one off of ebay, but no luck.
John Ulrich told me that he replaced his with one from Dennis Kirk. Finally sick and tired of cleaning up leaked fuel, I purchased the vented cap from Dennis Kirk (Dennis Kirk part number: H18199; Drag Specialties part number: DS-390130).
It looks very close to original, fits well, and seals perfectly. When changing out my petcocks with a tank nearly full of fuel, I set the tank on end for over 10 minutes without any leaks from the cap.
Follow-up
After using the cap for a while, I've discovered that it let's air in fine, but does not allow air to escape. This may not seem like a problem, but too much pressure inside the tank will stop the fuel flow (I'm not sure how this happens, but it does). This usually isn't a problem unless you are running long distances at speed. Pressure will build up inside the tank to some point, and then the engine will falter. Open the cap to allow the excess pressure to escape, and the fuel flow continues and away you go. This seems to happen more to me on hot days than on cool days. John Ulrich drilled a couple of strategically placed holes on the underside of his cap to prevent this from happening. I did the same, but then the cap started leaking again (I like to fill my tank up very full). So, I'm back to the drawing board. Until I find a better solution, I will continue to use the cap from Dennis Kirk.
Grommets used in the battery tray
Updated: 2011 Aug 14
The battery tray has four holes through which the wire hooks at the bottom of the side covers fit. To ensure a snug fit and to avoid rattles, rubber grommets are fit to these holes.
- The four holes have a diameter of 8 mm. McMaster-Carr part number 9600K39 works well in this application.
Alternatively, a length of rubber hose can be fit over each wire hook. The rubber hose stays in place much better than does the rubber grommets. Thanks to Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics for sharing this tip with me.
- The wire hooks have a diameter of 4 mm. 3⁄16 in ID thin-walled vacuum hose works well in this application. The OD must not be larger than the 8 mm (~5⁄16 in) hole size in the battery tray.
Grommets used in the headlight bucket
Updated: 2011 Aug 14
The headlight bucket has three holes through which wires are fit. To avoid chaffing the insulation on the wires, rubber grommets are fit to these holes.
- There are two holes with a diameter of 20 mm. McMaster-Carr part number 9600K21 works well in this application.
- There is one hole with a diameter of 16 mm. McMaster-Carr part number 9600K19 works well in this application.
Keys for tool boxes and fork lock
Updated: 2008 Dec 09
I extracted this information from Fred Sahms off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!) AND from Duane Ausherman's website AND from the Moto Guzzi National Owners Club (MGNOC) publication “Tips for Guzzis, Volume II” AND from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle in a private email.
Cross-reference
The locks for the tool boxes and fork lock were made by Neiman (German company). I've not tried these key blank cross-references, but I believe them to be correct.
- Curtis MC44
- Dominion SR61N
- ESP N2M
- Ilco V06
- JMA NE-6
- Neiman
- Silca NE5
- Taylor B69K
Online source
Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle found these keys online: KeyBlankSales, search for “SR61N” .
Cut your own blanks
If you have an original Neiman key, a copy, or a key code, you can cut your own blanks. Here is how to decipher the code from a key.
- Each number in the code represents the depth of the cut that is to be made. 5 is no cut at all. 0 is the deepest cut. The first number represents the cut nearest to the portion of the key that is held by the hand. Not all keys have 6 digits.
- So, using the first key shown below, we have:
- 1 - a deep cut almost to the slot
- 2 - not quite as deep as a 1
- 4 - a very tiny cut
- 2 - equal to the previous “2”
- 5 - no cut at all
- 0 - a deep cut clear to the slot; this one happens to be at the end of the key
Paint codes
Updated: 2006 Sep 22
These paint codes were derived from numerous sources.
| Picture | Color | Paint code |
|---|---|---|
| V700 Silver |
from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG “Astra Silver Poly” , Tinting Guide: DBC33108 (base coat Urethane system, no OEM) or PPG “Astra Silver Poly” , Tinting Guide: DAR 33108 (Acrylic Enamel, OEM Mercedes DB735) The paint tech did say that the tint was slightly off on the Acrylic Enamel and recommended the base coat Urethane. from Moe at Cycle Garden (submitted by Tom Short) - I use PPG DP epoxy primer on bare metal and PPG DBC 2 stage as a top coat. from Frank Casssese - Harley “V Rod” silver is pretty close. or from Hans Rosenstein - BMW bike color: Titan Silver Metallic (Glasurit 354) |
|
| V700 / Early Ambassador Red |
from John Chicoine - RM's UNO-HD CMS 8342B was an incredible match with the original red on my tank. or from Hans Rosenstein - BMW bike color: Piedmont Red Metallic (Glasurit 912) |
|
| Later Ambassador / Eldorado Burgundy |
from Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics & Kevin O'Brien - PPG DBU 4240 from Greg Field - Might be the same as V7 Sport burgundy |
|
| Ambassador / Eldorado Black |
from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG “Black” , Tinting Guide: DBC9667 (base coat Urethane, OEM General Motors 19U) |
|
| Ambassador / Eldorado White |
from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle - PPG “Cameo White” , Tinting Guide: DBC90256 (base coat Urethane, no OEM) |
|
| 850 GT Green | ? | |
| 850 GT Burgundy |
? May be the same as the Ambassador / Eldorado burgundy? |
Painting
Updated: 2011 Aug 15
I've used each of the companies listed below and I've been happy with the results and the prices charged for the services rendered.
Arizona, Phoenix
Full Circle Auto Body
2029 West Ironwood Drive
Phoenix, AZ. 85021
(602) 870-0579
Minnesota, Minneapolis
Rob Reardon
(952) 292-8886
New York, Penn Yan
Stephen Hill
Steve knows how to properly stripe and decal everything, a big plus!
(315) 244-3946
Paint removal - before you blast…
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Be extremely cautious before you use any type of impact blasting process to remove paint from sheet metal. All of those tiny bits are acting like miniature hammers and can/will change the shape of your sheet metal. This can have especially negative consequences on the radius of fenders…particularly the rear fender - making it very difficult to install it again within the frame. How do I know this?
Instead, I recommend a less chancy approach such as baking the old paint off. This requires special ovens that heat things up to 800° Fahrenheit or so…and the paint just burns off. Or, you could simply use paint striper and/or good old fashioned sandpaper to remove the old paint.
Petcock alignment
Updated: 2011 Sep 21
Because the petcocks screw directly into the tank in a “bolt-and-nut” fashion, it can be difficult to get the petcock both sufficiently tight and properly aligned so as to afford access to turn them on and off. As original, thin shimming washers can be used to achieve the desired results.
Thanks to Mike Tiberio for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mike's own words:
McMaster Carr to the rescue again. They have stainless steel shim washers with metric IDs. They come in 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.4 mm, 0.5 mm and 1.0 mm thicknesses.
Gregory Bender adds:
An ID of 12 mm is needed. Since the thread pitch is 1.0 mm, a shim of less than that thickness is needed to achieve proper alignment. A shim of 0.5 mm will change the alignment by 1⁄2 a turn; a shim of 0.2 mm will change the alignment by 1⁄5 a turn, etc. I suggest purchasing 0.2 mm thick shims and stacking them as needed. 0.1 mm may sound like the perfect solution for very granular control of alignment. But keep in mind that 0.1 mm is very thin and easily distorted.
Spring steel shims
- 12 mm ID × 0.1 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98055A125
- 12 mm ID × 0.2 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98055A126
- 12 mm ID × 0.3 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98055A127
- 12 mm ID × 0.5 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98055A128
- 12 mm ID × 1.0 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98055A129
18-8 stainless steel shims
- 12 mm ID × 0.1 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A220
- 12 mm ID × 0.2 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A259
- 12 mm ID × 0.3 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A301
- 12 mm ID × 0.5 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A344
- 12 mm ID × 1.0 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A389
- 12 mm ID × 1.5 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A126
- 12 mm ID × 2.0 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 98089A449
316 stainless steel shims
- 12 mm ID × 0.1 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 90214A123
- 12 mm ID × 0.2 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 90214A225
- 12 mm ID × 0.5 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 90214A428
- 12 mm ID × 1.0 mm thick: McMaster-Carr part number 90214A527
Mike Tiberio also posted an interesting alternative to the standard petcock alignment:
I think most folks assume the standard position with their petcocks. That is the plane of motion for the swinging lever is a vertical plane, parallel to the fore/aft axis of the bike. This puts the hose tap pointing inward toward the centerline of the bike.
I never liked what I consider a number of side effects of using the stock petcock orientation. The hose barb pointing inward makes removing the hose problematic, and taking the tank off without snagging a fuel line tap or fuel line is also problematic. The lever just seems tough to operate from a human factors point of view. Add to all this, the fuel line routing is tortured (IMHO).
What I have done is rotated the petcocks 90° so the plane within which the lever swings is perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bike. This has a number of beneficial effects (once again IMHO).
First it seems easier with a gloved finger and thumb to operate the petcock lever with an in/out motion rather than a fore/aft motion. The fuel line tap now points either forward or aft (possible since the petcocks are off in either horizontal) as necessary to ensure a short and nicely curved hose run. The hose is now much easier to remove since it isn't buried under the tank. Obviously I point the lever outward when off.
just my $0.02, you might want to give it a try.
Petcock alternative
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Based on recommendations from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle and Greg Field, I decided to swap out my existing stock petcocks for petcocks from a small block Guzzi and adapters to work on the loop tanks.
I had a number of reasons for doing this…(1) tired of trying to get my petcocks lined up properly with shimming washers (2) tired of not having a real reserve (3) tired of worn out internals seals - although the latest set of Viton seals from Bruce Giller have worked very well.
The small block petcocks are nice units. They have three settings on both petcocks: Off/On/Reserve. They are mirrored right to left so it is easier to remember which way to turn the petcocks to make them function how you want them to. Operation is smooth.
The adapters are machined stainless and are of high quality. The threads that mate with the tank are quite long for a good fit. Instead of a fiber washer, I used a 12 mm aluminum crush washer to seal the adapter to the tank. Nice stuff.
The petcocks come with small filter screens that screw into each petcock. When secured to the adapters, the filter screens no longer fit. Using a tip from Greg Field, I cut off the plastic bottom of each screen close to the screen material and then used J-B WELD to secure the screen to the top of the adapters.
I purchased the adapters and petcocks from Moto International. I believe the adapters are a MI exclusive.
Petcock repair
Updated: 2011 Sep 21
Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.
My petcocks started leaking / weeping and rather than replacing them, I decided to attempt a repair. The leaking / weeping problem is usually not the washer between the tank and the petcock - which is an easy fix anyway. Rather, the leak is usually caused by a worn out rubber gasket inside the petcock.
There was a tip in the Moto Guzzi National Owners Club (MGNOC) newsletter submitted by Bruce Giller suggesting that 1⁄16 in and 3⁄32 in thick Viton be used as a replacement material. Viton is expensive and I couldn't easily find any locally. So I decided to try Neoprene.
The aluminum Orlandi petcocks use 3⁄32 in material. I found a 73⁄4 in diameter disc of 3⁄32 in thick Neoprene at my local Ace Hardware store (enough for lot's and lot's of petcocks). It was in the plumbing section…I have no idea what it is normally used for.
The chrome plated brass petcocks use 1⁄16 in material. I found a very large 1⁄16 in thick Neoprene washer in the plumbing section of my local Menards home improvement store Danco Company, Stock Number 61808B, UPC Code 0 37155 61808 8). The washer is 11⁄2 in diameter and has a 3⁄16 in hole in the center. The remaining material leaves sufficient room to create 3 gaskets..
I stuck the Neoprene in a can of gas for about 24 hours and didn't see any deterioration; none of the material came off when I rubbed it vigorously with my thumb. So, I figure that it is pretty safe to use, although I'm certain Viton would be better.
Making the gasket and repairing the petcock is not difficult, just follow these steps:
- Remove the tank from the bike.
- Remove the petcock from the tank.
- Place the petcock in a vice so that the front (where the handle is located) is sticking straight up. I used two pieces of wood to sandwich the petcock so as to avoid damage.
- Unscrew the handle. I was able to use a pliers to grip it firmly. This technique left only very small marks on the handle for me. It is possible to disassemble the petcock without removing the handle, but reassembly can be more difficult as the spring-loaded bolt will be cockeyed.
- Using a wrench or a socket, unscrew the bolt from the face of the petcock. There is a spring under there, so be careful not to let things fly across the garage.
- You should now see the rubber gasket. I used a small pick to remove it. You will notice that each hole in the body of the petcock (one hole connects to the fuel tank, one hole connects to the fuel line) has a very small pipe that extends partway through the two corresponding holes in the rubber gasket. This construction prevents the rubber gasket from turning, thus alleviating any need for an adhesive to hold the rubber gasket in place.
- With the gasket removed, you can now make and install the replacement. I used a hollow punch set to create my holes. I purchased the set from a tool tent sale a number of years ago. Harbor Freight sells a similar 9 piece set (item number 3838).
- Aluminum Orlandi petcocks: Use the 3⁄32 in material. For the outer diameter, I used a 3⁄4 in hole punch. For the two holes inside the gasket, I used a 3⁄16 in or a 7⁄32 in hole punch.
- Chrome plated brass petcocks: Use the 1⁄16 in material. For the outer diameter, I used a 5⁄8 in hole punch. For the two holes inside the gasket, I used a 3⁄16 in hole punch.
- Assembly is pretty much the reverse of disassembly, except for the following tips:
- I made sure that the surfaces that come into contact with the rubber gasket were free from nick, burrs, etc.
- I put grease on all the parts before reassembly. Some of it will definitely wash off, but hopefully some will remain to help lubricate things.
- Getting the bolt started into the face of the petcock can be challenging because the spring is working against you. I used a box-end wrench for the bolt and pressed down with a small deep-well socket on the bolt itself. I found this method very effective.
- I used a little bit of thread locking compound on the handles. I've heard that they have a tendency to rattle loose and fall off if they are not secured well.
- Before mounting the tank back on the bike, I installed each petcock and tested for leaks with the handle turned in all directions, both with fuel flowing freely from the fuel line and with the fuel line plugged to provide a little back pressure.
So far, my repair seems to be working out well (repair made 2004 Mar 10). If the status changes, I'll post that information here.
Follow-up
My petcocks started leaking again only a few short months after I replaced the gaskets with neoprene. I contacted Bruce Giller and he sold me several of his Viton gaskets. They installed very well and are working great. They also have a better “feel” than the neoprene. Contact Bruce Giller to get your own set.
John Chicoine also sells seals for the original petcocks.
Pin striping tape
Updated: 2004 Feb 03
When pin striping my tank, tool boxes, and fenders, I wasn't sure what size or brand of tape to use. After speaking with my painter, Rob Reardon, I ended up going with the product he recommended and we both decided on sizes together after looking at numerous photos. Here is what I used:
3M Scotchcal Striping Tape (available through most auto supply stores, although they'll probably have to order it).
- For the tool boxes: 72456 (1⁄2 in × 150 ft Bright White). The tape is 1⁄2 in wide but contains two stripes: 1 stripe that is 1⁄4 in wide and 1 stripe that is 1⁄8 in wide. The two stripes are separated by a 1⁄8 in space.
- 3M's product info
- 3M Id: 75-3466-9018-5
- GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 72456 0
- Buyer's Part Number: 72456
- For the fenders: 73256 (4/16 in × 150 ft Bright White). The tape is 1⁄4 in wide but contains two stripes: 1 stripe that is 1⁄8 in wide and 1 stripe that is 1⁄16 in wide. The two stripes are separated by a 1⁄16 in space. 3M's product info.
- 3M's product info
- 3M Id: 75-3467-5738-0
- GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 73256 5
- Buyer's Part Number: 73256
- For the tank: 73256 (Same as for the fenders). Except that we separated the 1⁄8 in and 1⁄16 in pieces to use them for different areas of the tank.
- 3M's product info
- 3M Id: 75-3467-5738-0
- GTIN(UPC/EAN): 0 00 51141 73256 5
- Buyer's Part Number: 73256
In sum, we used most of the 73256 roll and just a little bit of the 72456 roll.
Since I don't plan to change the pin striping, we applied the pin striping to the base coat and then applied the clear coat on top.
Free
If you would like some of the 72456 roll (see image below), just let me know. I'll send you four, 9 in lengths (enough for one mistake on each toolbox) in a first class envelope. If you can get some use out of it and don't need to buy an entire roll for yourself, just send me an email message.
Pin striping the tank - chrome panel
Updated: 2012 Feb 07
First off, the original shape of the chrome panel was NOT the same across all tanks. Not only are there large differences between the early V7/V700 tank and the later Ambassador and Eldorado tanks (plus plenty over overlap between), but there are minor differences between any two tanks that came off the production line next to each other and even differences between the left and right sides of an individual tank (not a mirror image). So, there is no rosetta stone that will give you the single exact shape that came from the factory.
Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics sells a matched pair of magnetic shapes (his favorite shape chosen from many) so that all you need to do is position them, mark the outline, and remove.
I gleaned this information from Jim Carey off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: side view and chrome panel.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: side view and chrome panel.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
John Prusnek sent me the shape he used on his tank. Notes from John:
A method I've used is to mask off the chrome panel and scuff up the tank chrome with 400 or 600 wet and dry, being careful around your panel mask.
When you're done with this, take a 1⁄4 in wide striping tape and lay it half over the mask and half over the scuffed up tank and paint the tank. What you're doing here is creating a 1⁄8 in scuffed edge around the chrome panel for your striping paint to get a bite into. Use “One Shot” sign painter's paint for striping.
When you peel everything off you should be left with a shiny chrome panel with a 1⁄8 in sanded chrome ring around it, which is covered half and half with the 1⁄4 in pinstripe that laps the chrome and the paint.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 17 KB | 1 page |
! ! ! ! ! Note on printing this PDF file ! ! ! ! !
When printing this PDF file, be absolutely sure that "Page scaling" is set to "None". If you don't do this, your print will not be of the proper size.
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
Pin striping the tank - top rectangle
Updated: 2012 Feb 06
When pin striping the top rectangle on my Eldorado project, I created this template based on information from John Prusnek and John Ulrich (see below).
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
|---|---|---|
| 9 KB | 2 pages |
! ! ! ! ! Note on printing this PDF file ! ! ! ! !
When printing this PDF file, be absolutely sure that "Page scaling" is set to "None". If you don't do this, your print will not be of the proper size.
To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.
I gleaned this information from John Prusnek off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
- The width of the front is 61⁄2 in
- The width at back is 51⁄8 in
- The length of a side is 147⁄8 in
- The length down the middle is 161⁄4 in
Dimensions are of the outside of the actual inner 3⁄8 in pinstripe rectangle . Outside of this is a 1⁄16 in space then the 1⁄16 in pinstripe. What you would want to do is lay down your 1⁄16 in striping tape on the outside of these measurements and put your thick line on the inside and the thin line on the outside if you're doing it by hand.
I measured this on a bike that's been repainted and striped, but it's pretty close to original. I've got some pics of it here, with some additional pinstriping photos that may be helpful.
In one pic I have an original tank with a ruler on it, hard to read, get close to the screen.
I wouldn't get too anal about the sizing, I'm sure that they're all off a little bit, since the pinstriping was applied by hand, and most likely freehand at that. On the examples I have the top and bottom line is curved to follow the tank rather than square. On the 2 Ambos I've rebuilt the chrome knee panels were different shapes on each side of the tank, by as much as 1⁄4 in.
I gleaned this information from John Ulrich off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
If I lay a piece of paper over the edges of the top vertical stripes the inside stripe is 3⁄4 in higher.
Lower arc is 1⁄4 in lower then the two vertical stripes
I took the alignment measurements from the gas cap opening (screw off)
- 3.25 in forward to the bottom of the first stripe (wider one on mine)
- 10.25 in south to the lower stripe edge
- 1.75 in east/west from the edge of the opening
All measurements are to the first edge of the wide (inner stripe)
I gleaned this information from Jim Carey off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
Some measurments of a black/white tank pinstripping I dug out this morning to take to the paint/rust stripping shop in town.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: top rectangle.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: top rectangle.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: top rectangle.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: top rectangle.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Original pin striping on the fuel tank: top rectangle.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Plating (Zinc)
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Exchange service
Moto Guzzi Classics
1831 Redondo Avenue
Signal Hill, CA. 90804
(562) 986-0070
Plating companies
Aetna Plating Co
6511 Morgan Ave
Cleveland, OH
(216) 341-9111
(800) 584-8055
Automated Finishing Technologies
1498 N. Bolton
Jacksonville, TX. 75766
(903) 589-7377
Note: Recent reports from customers indicate this company no longer provides top-notch zinc plating services. BUYER BEWARE!
Full Service Zinc
3200 West 121st Street
Cleveland, OH. 44111
(216) 641-8200
(866) 265-9262
Note: Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle reports good results with this company.
Powder coating
Updated: 2011 Jan 13
I've used each of the companies listed below and I've been happy with the results and the prices charged for the services rendered.
Arizona, Phoenix
Arizona Powder Coat
5301 East Washington Street
Phoenix, AZ. 85034
(602) 220-0553
Todd Shepard recommends:
Desert Powder Coating
4409 South 35 Avenue
Phoenix, AZ. 85041
(602) 253-7875
Kansas, Wichita
Lorac Company
624 East Harry Street
Wichita, KS. 67211
(316) 263-2565
Minnesota, Minneapolis
Powder Coating Technologies
14920 28th Avenue North
Plymouth, MN. 55447
(763) 559-4779
Powder coating - what to do, what not to do
Updated: 2011 Sep 21
Opinions vary widely on this issue. At the end of the day, do whatever you want. But, here is my advice. Powder coating is a wonderful process. It is very durable and lasts a long time. Powder coat is good for the following things:
- Frames
- Swing arms
- Side and center stands
- Top and bottom triple tree plates
- Fork lowers
- Battery trays
- Battery hold down brackets
- Front foot pegs
- Frame to rear brake drum stays
- Seat pans
There is a definite draw back to powder coating (beside the fact that you pretty much have to bake it or blast it off). I would NOT choose to do it on any of the sheet metal because it shows tiny scratches very easily. I'm not talking about scratches that go to the metal, but very light surface scuffs that come from washing, waxing, etc. I would go with regular paint for the sheet metal because you can always polish out those tiny scratches. My only exceptions to this rule are the seat pan and the battery tray. These pieces are rarely visible and highly susceptible to rust…so I choose to powder coat them.
Rear fender installation
Updated: 2011 Aug 26
When I disassembled my Ambassador, the rear fender came apart just fine (at least as far as I can remember - things always seem to come apart better than they go back together). But when it came time to put the rear fender back into the frame, I couldn't believe how tight it was. I just couldn't get the bolt holes to line up. Perhaps the bead/sand blasting that was done to it before painting had created a slightly larger arc. Or, maybe the fender was that tight from the get go. At any rate, it was tight enough for me to stand back and take a look at my frame to see if it was bent. It didn't appear so.
I ended up calling John Schwartz for some advice. He assured me that my problem was not uncommon. He had encountered very stubborn rear fenders on loop frames before, too. The long and the short of it is that getting the rear fender mounted back into the bike can be difficult. Using some of John's advice and some of my own ideas, I eventually got the fender mounted and in place. Here is what worked for me:
- Before doing anything, I protected all possible touch points that I didn't want scratched with old bath towels.
- I started by loosely connecting the fasteners at the top rear of the fender.
- Next, I loosely connected the fasteners that run through the toolbox, the battery tray, and fender.
- Then, using pry bars and slow but steady determination; I eased the battery tray into place and secured it.
- At this point, I had many fasteners loosely connected. So, tightening in small increments, I moved from one to another until all were tight.
This all sounds nice and systematic…but, as you can well imagine, it wasn't. Good luck.
Improving the fit of the rear fender
I've never been happy with the fit of my rear fender. It takes a lot of effort to get it installed, and all the flexing forces the sides to bow out and rub on the side of the frame. The problem hasn't been visible, but it has annoyed me nonetheless. My rear fender had to be repaired and repainted after I got rear-ended by an automobile in 2010 Dec. I figured this was the perfect time to see if I could solve this problem once and for all.
I suspected that the rear “loop” of frame had gotten bent downward slightly from too much weight sitting on the pillion and/or attached to a rear luggage rack (before I owned the motorcycle). To this end, I attempted to bend the top loop upward. I rigged up a leverage system using 3⁄4 in steel pipe and “T” unions. I had a lot of leverage (close to 5 ft) and I didn't move it a bit. That rear loop is a lot stouter than I originally thought. I mentioned the idea of the rear loop bending to Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics and he laughed. Mark also confirmed to me that many/most of the rear fenders he has installed have too tight of a fit.
What to do?
I knew I could elongate the slots in the fender for the rear mount. But I couldn't do much of anything there without the slots then showing beneath the corresponding mount in the frame. Therefore, I didn't modify these slots at all.
I started up front enlarging the reinforced mounting holes in the fender to 3⁄8 in using a hand drill. This helped significantly, especially with the right side front mount. But the left side front mount was still very tight and still wanted to flex the fender too much.
Next, I lengthened the front slot in the battery tray on the left side. I used a round file for this. I'm not sure how much material I removed, probably around 1⁄8 in but maybe a bit more. This helped with the fitment, but the left side was still too tight.
Finally, I enlarged the left reinforced mounting hole in the fender to 7⁄16 in using a hand drill. With this huge hole in the fender, I was able to fit the fender without all the nasty flexing. 7⁄16 in is quite large and I don't think I'd want to go any bigger than that (I was a lot more comfortable with 3⁄8 in holes). I used thick fender washers on the inside to help distribute the clamping force.
This the first time I've mounted this rear fender without the sides “buckling” under the pressure and then rubbing on the frame. Thank goodness. Worth the effort - to me, anyway.
Note
Please take care when making modifications such as these. It is very easy to remove too much material and introduce another problem, such as:
- elongated holes now visible behind the rear mount
- the fender touching the horizontal portion of the battery tray
- no longer having sufficient space through which to route wires
- the tool boxes being positioned too far forward and hitting the frame
- having to enlarge the holes in order to mount the tool boxes
In short, go slow and check your work carefully.
Side cover screw external retaining ring
Updated: 2011 Oct 12
The original side cover screws have a groove to accept and “E” clip style external retaining ring (MG# 90280005). The groove for this ring is 4 mm in diameter and ~.9 mm wide. McMaster-Carr part number 98543A112 (black phosphate spring steel) or part number 98317A214 (Type 420 stainless steel) fit well.
Side cover screws
Updated: 2011 Aug 22
For some reason or another, side cover screws seem to disappear. You may be able to find a used pair of screws on ebay, but they are getting rare and more expensive. You could also create a functional - and less attractive - set yourself using a long 6 mm bolt and two nuts.
As a very nice looking and affordable alternative, Joe Kenny machines aluminum replacements that look and work great! In my opinion, these are better than the originals.
Tank holder
Updated: 2011 Nov 21
I extracted this information from Jim Carey off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Jim's own words:
I saw on this site a couple weeks back a clever idea for a gas tank spit. My Eldo tank has sprung a couple pin holes! So its time to strip it, weld it up and then seal it. So it seemed like a good idea to make up a spit for working on the tank.
1 in square tubing, cast iron gas line fittings, a 3⁄8 in diameter rod and an old water valve handle. I made it up into three parts to knock it down when not in use. Gas line fittings with a lock bolt threaded into the “T” to tigten it to the shaft and a stop on the frame to secure the shaft in place.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Holder for securing the fuel tank safely and securely while working on it.Photo courtesy of Jim Carey.
Tool box lock rebuild
Updated: 2011 Sep 06
Working on a customer's project bike, I encountered a nice set of tool box locks without any keys. Rather than pay a locksmith to do the work (my last locksmith bill for cutting a new key was far from inexpensive), I decided to figure out how to disassemble, clean, and rebuild the lock myself. With the lock apart, cutting a new key would be easy. Here is the step-by-step:
- Here is the original lock.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Start by using a small punch to carefully and gently drive out the pin. In my experience, the pin is not excessively tight. Drive it out just a little bit. Be sure the punch is small enough. You don't want to use too big of a punch that places stress on the surrounding metal and cracks it. It is best to perform all of this work in a very clean area with a large towel beneath your work surface. The large towel will help keep many small pieces for getting lost and cleanliness will help you find them should they wonder off into the other places. You will not be able to walk into your local hardware store and find replacement parts for these locks. So, be exceedingly careful not to loose any of the small parts.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Use a pliers to grab and pull on the pin.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Pull it out just far enough that the pin is held in place by only the lever.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Slide the lever off the end and set it aside.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Turn your attention to the small metal covers. There are two covers. We will start by working with one cover and leave the other one alone for now. I like to start with the cover to which the key slot is pointing.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Use a small screwdriver to carefully pry the cover away from the front of the lock.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- As you slide the cover away, you will expose the first of four springs and eight pins under this cover.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Withdraw the spring and the first pin. I discovered this pin to be 2.5 mm in length. The remaining three pins were 2 mm in length. You will want to keep the pins organized as you remove them.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- There is another pin below this first pin. Remove it as well. I found a small paper clip worked well to push it up from the key way…then I would tap it on the table until it dropped out. While you do this, be careful that you do not dislodge the cover completely. If you do, all of the other springs and pins will likely go flying.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Now slide the cover back to expose the next spring.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Remove the spring and the next two pins.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- At this point, the cover will likely want to slide off completely. If it does, remove it carefully and keep your fingers over the springs.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Remove the third spring and both pins.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Remove the fourth spring and both pins. With the fourth pin removed, the core of the lock will be completely free to slide out of the lock body. You should be aware, however, that under the other small metal cover lives four more springs and four more short pins. If you remove the core of the lock from the lock body, the springs will push the pins out completely and they can easily become lost. For this reason, I like to remove the other cover in exactly the same manner as the first cover. Instead of two sets of pins in each hole, however, there will only be one set of pins.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- The body of the lock with both covers removed and emptied of all pins and springs.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- The core of the lock with no pins. The pins that fit in the lock are the ones placed immediately above the core. These pins are longer than the other four pins and have a tapered end to ease key entry and withdrawal.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Here is the core with a blank key.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Insert the key into the core.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Temporarily place the pins in the core. Notice the pins stick up above the core. This is because the key has not yet been cut. Once the key is properly cut, the pins will be level with the core when the key is inserted.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- When the key is withdrawn, the springs from the lock body will push the outer set of pins against the pins that remain in the lock core. The pins will then prevent the lock from rotating.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- It is time to cut the key. I started by coating the surface to be cut with some dye-chem.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Then I inserted the key into the core of the lock.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- And scraped away the dye chem.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Which left me with the four locations that I needed to file in order to cut the key.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- After a bit of work cutting the key I got to the point where my pins were even with the surface of the core. Cut the key in small increments. It is very easy to remove too much metal and the key is ruined. Always test the key with the core inserted into the body of the lock.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Here is the initial profile of the key. Note that the sides of each cut are square.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- I've now filed 45° angles on the side of each cut. Doing this creates
“ramps”
that greatly ease the key into and out of the slot.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Time for reassembly. By this time you should be pretty familiar with the lock and it's operation. So, insert the core with it's pins and then replace the
“outer”
pins and springs.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Replace the metal cover and gently tap it back in place with a small punch and hammer. There should be a light interference fit.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Repeat with the other set of outer pins, springs, and cover.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Replace the lever.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- Gently drive the pin back into place.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
- To help prevent things from loosening up due to vibration, I smeared a tiny bit of ThreeBond 1194 sealant on the small metal covers as well as on either end of the lever retaining pin.
Tool box lock replacement
Updated: 2011 Aug 22
I extracted this information from Greg Barratt of Stainless Cycle off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!). In Greg's own words:
Use the McMaster-Carr item number 13105A75. It is a much nicer lock, doesn't clip on like that chintzy universal one, has a lock nut, keyed alike, waterproof. It comes with a couple of different latches. I use the straight one, cut it way down. Overall I've used 4 of the universal ones, and now 2 of the “good ones” - there's no comparison.
McMaster-Carr item number 13105A75Photo courtesy of McMaster-Carr.
Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle writes:
I used the toolbox locks recommended by Greg Barratt and they do indeed work well and look quite nice.
Replacement lock pieces and parts.Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.
Inside view of lock fit to a tool box.Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.
Outside view of lock fit to a tool box.Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.
