Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, 850 California Police Engine, clutch, and related components

Brackets to mount a Tonti timing cover in a loop frame

Updated: 2007 Mar 16

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Thanks to Mike Tiberio who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mike's own words:

If your like me you like the look of a tonti motor complete with pancake alternator in a loop frame. I like the open air look where the generator (or GF alternator conversion goes). I had the added incentive of making these brackets as I'm making an Eldorado Automatic this winter,and didn't want to have to engineer an electric ATF pump. I posted a scan of my plans that I sent to my machinist a few weeks ago. I got the brackets back this week, and have sized them with a spare timing cover. I'll only know if I got the dimension right when I put the entire drivetrain in and check the drive shaft alignment, but this check tells me I got the side to side dimensions right.

Motor Mount Plans: Hanger bracket to allow motor with tonti timing cover to be mounted into loop frame without welding.

Motor Mount Plans: Hanger bracket to allow motor with tonti timing cover to be mounted into loop frame without welding.

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Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 1

Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 1

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Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 2

Tonti Timing Cover Hanger Bracket 2

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Question from Gregory Bender:

It is my understanding that the Tonti alternator cover will hit the front fender upon full fork compression? I don't have any direct experience with this, however, so I may be recalling incorrect information, etc. Can you shed some light on this?

My understanding is, if you do nothing, the fender (or perhaps more accurately the fender brace) will hit the cover. Once again I've been told that all that is necessary is to rotate the lower front fender mount downward. This would require drilling 2 new holes, and leave 2 holes to be plugged, so a purist might not want to do it, but then a purist wouldn't be mounting a tonti motor in a loop frame anyway.

Now if you look at a California II front fender (granted tonti frame), they have a flat spot hammered into the fender, I hope that isn't necessary as mine is chromed and might flake.

Other issue. I have heard of folks using a welded spool onto the loop frame to do what I have done with my links. While I was jigging all this up, I put a tonti drive train in my loop frame, and installed only the rear trans mount and battery tray. I supported the front of the motor with a jack. I figured I'd use the alignment of the fins with the lower rail (from the rear of the oil pan forward up to the 3rd oil pan bolt they are parallel nicely), to get the output shaft alignment correct. I wasn't happy with that method, and I wish I had paid attention to the original output shaft alignment relative to the swing arm pivot, but never did. I figure to minimize stress on the u-joint, the output shaft of the trans should point directly dead center to the swing arm pivot (I mean centerline to centerline). Achieving this alignment, I realized that the front tonti motor mount hole did not align with the crotch in the loop frame (this crotch is formed when the factory welds the front motor mount onto the loop). Now to bring this story full circle and make a long story longer, back to the spool weld jobs. If the anecdotal evidence on fender clearance is based on folks using the welded spool method, their clearance might be different than mine. because I believe my motor mount bolt is lower than theirs… whew.

Now if I wasn't so lazy I get a tonti drivetrain back into the frame now that I have my links, but I'm waiting till I have the motor and trans done, so I hopefully only have to do it once…

I invested $155 in my links, that included shortening and rethreading the front motor mount bolt (actually not a bolt, has a nut on each end). I'd be thrilled if someone would key up my plans (in the photo section) with the emachineshop.com cad software, so we could get an independent quote on these, because if I blew the dimensions, I'm looking at shelling out at least another $140…

Finally got my convert motor and trans done and bolted together. Got them up into the loop frame tonight, and finally got to check out how my new front motor hanger brackets did as far as output shaft alignment. I'm pleased to report that it looks great.

The first shot show the alignment. the convert output shaft is hollow and threaded. I screwed a long bolt into it, and the picture shows how the output shaft axis is co-planer with the swing arm pivot axis (the bolt exactly splits the pivot pin holes). this is key to minimize stress on the u-joint.

Output shaft alignment: I threaded a long bolt into the convert output shaft. You can see it aims dead center to the swing arm pivot.

Output shaft alignment: I threaded a long bolt into the convert output shaft. You can see it aims dead center to the swing arm pivot.

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This second shot shows the front timing cover with the alternator cover installed. It shows how I'll have to lower the lower fender mount as a minimum to get the fender to clear the alternator cover.

Hanger bracket, fender, alternator cover: A shot of the tonti motor to loop frame hanger brackets, and the needed fender bracket re-route.

Hanger bracket, fender, alternator cover: A shot of the tonti motor to loop frame hanger brackets, and the needed fender bracket re-route.

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Also if you look at my plans, you'll notice the mounts are asymmetrical side to side. I was a little concerned about this, but the result is my motor sits dead center in the frame, so I'd say that at least for my frame it was the right way to go. My machinist, JVE of Greenville South Carolina, made these brackets for me, and could no doubt make some for you.

Breather box - a look inside

Updated: 2006 Jan 12

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Okay, armed with the knowledge of those who have gone before me, and a little wariness on my part, I set out to disable the flapper valve and replace it with the ball valve. Here's my tale…

I removed the breather and had a look up the pipes…the largest diameter pipe is the one that contains the flapper valve. I checked it with a screwdriver and it seemed to work fine. I blew in it and it also seemed to work just fine. But, says me, I've got this nifty new ball valve just begging to be installed. So, out comes a hammer and screwdriver and I easily disable the old spring loaded flapper valve.

As I look inside, I can see the spring that held the flapper valve closed. I tip the breather upside down and the spring falls into my hand. Easy.

Now for the flapper itself…it is very similar to a fender washer and is larger in diameter than any of the pipes. There was nothing holding it in place and is now freely rattling about the breather as I shake it.

Hmmmm…do I really need to get it out of there?

I lie down on my back on the garage floor with the breather in one hand and a flashlight in another hand. I start rattling and shaking the breather and, low and behold, I can get the flapper to block pipes.

I'm really not concerned about the large inlet pipe, as incoming air pressure will simply move the flapper out of the way. Furthermore, the inlet pipe sticks up above the base of the breather - so I doubt it would ever get popped on top of there.

But, the smallest pipe - the oil return line - is flush with the bottom of the breather. I can easily rattle the breather around and get the small pipe completely blocked. This would be disastrous on the road as all of the oil pumped into the breather would be expelled to the pavement…in a hurry. This may not be likely, but it certainly could happen.

I try - in vane - to remove the flapper. I just can't get a good grip on it with any of my needle nose pliers. Plus, it's pretty thick metal (like a washer) and would be very difficult to bend and then pull out.

At this point I'm pretty much convinced that I've just trashed my breather. So, I do want any curious loop-o-phile would do. I cut the breather open with a hacksaw and take a look inside. :>

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Breather box - clamp for securing the atmosphere hose

Updated: 2012 Mar 06

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There were two routes for the hose to atmosphere. I have no strong preference for either configuration.

1. Early on, Guzzi routed it straight down, between the transmission and the starter. It was secured to one of bottom bellhousing bolts with a “P” clamp.
   

   ³⁄₄ in conduct clamp used as a generic subsitute for the original “P” clamp.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

   ³⁄₄ in conduct clamp used as a generic subsitute for the original “P” clamp.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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2. Later, Guzzi routed it straight down and across to the right side of the frame, exiting under the driver's footpeg. Guzzi used a special bracket that was bolted on with the driver's right footpeg.
   

   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

   Original cross-frame clamp in place.

   Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Breather box - hose sizes

Updated: 2008 Jan 07

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• Inlet hose (right side): ID = 18 mm (~ ¹¹⁄₁₆ in); Length = 60 mm (~ 2³⁄₈ in)
• Return hose (middle): ID = 8 mm (~ ⁵⁄₁₆ in); Length = 60 mm (~ 2³⁄₈ in)
• Atmosphere hose (left side): ID = 14 mm (~ ⁹⁄₁₆ in); OD = 17 mm (~ ¹¹⁄₁₆ in); Length = approximately 600 mm (~ 24 in)

  Thanks to K. Ross Raymond who posted the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

  It is somewhat difficult to source an atmosphere hose with the proper ID and OD that is also oil tolerant. Here is one source for such a hose: Pelican Parts part number N-020-371-1-M21.

  Thanks to Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for providing this alternative.

  I bought a length of silicone rubber hose from McMaster-Carr. Kinda of a brownish-black color, slips right up onto the breather box snug, thin wall so should fit into the bracket no problem. I don't use the bracket, but a vinyl covered “P” clamp from NAPA attached to the lower right bell housing bolt instead.

Breather box - how to get the washer out

Updated: 2006 Jan 12

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When disabling the stock breather valve (to use a different style check valve), in my opinion it is very important (read: vital) to remove the spring and washer inside.

Thanks to Kim Schick who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Kim's own words:

I need to chime in on the breather box thread that was going on a while back…

A Dremel tool cuts an excellent “piggybank” slot on the bottom of the box and lets you fish the “washer” out.

Brazing the slot allows for powder coating, but J-B WELD works just as well (so far at least) as long as you're doing the paint thing.

Breather box - Rex Bunn breather alternative

Updated: 2011 Dec 06

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Thanks to Rick who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Rick's own words:

I installed the “Bunn Breather” on my eldo, testing it, and reporting the findings back to Rex Bunn, as he has an old Guzzi himself that he has been using as a test mule.

What I did first was removed the stock breather and hoses, then removed both rocker covers, I covered the end of the small oil return pipe on top of the case, and hooked up a brass plumbing fitting with a ³⁄₈ in barb on the larger breather pipe. I attached a piece of hose to it, and did a “blow test” confirming I had good air passage from the crankcase up to the rocker box. Air passes mostly through the 2 cutouts in the block where the lifters set into. I can block the small oil return hole in the head with my finger, and still blow air freely in through the engine.

I then drilled, and tapped both my rocker covers to receive brass fittings, where I hooked up a piece of clear hose, then the bunn exhaust valve in each hose (fuel line) going down by the transmission to the bottom of the bike, the valve sits about mid way in the hose, near the carbs. On the brass barb I installed in the stock breather pipe (big pipe) I hooked up the Bunn intake valve, and two filters, the bunn supplied small filter, and a UNI breather filter on the end (very dusty here in southeast Arizona).

When you run the bike, you can see the flapper/disc in the valves fluttering, and air moving from the crankcase through both rockers, like an air compressor, I even put a latex glove on one of the exhaust lines, and it inflated it!! you can feel the air being drawn into the intake line, and if you block its end, it stops the glove after a few seconds…I think the pumping action of the pistons will actually draw a vaccuum (slight) in the crankcase, thus Bunn designs it free flowing on the exhaust with 2 valves, and a slightly more restrictive intake with the filters and one valve to try and maintain a slightly sub atmospheric pressure (to prevent oil leaks) in the crankcase.

After riding the bike at speeds up to 80 MPH, there is no oil out of the rocker hoses, and the engine runs “freer” , with less compression braking, and it does seem to rev easier. So far, the bunn system works great as a bottom > Top breather setup. I will try to put up some pics.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

Bunn Breather installed on a Moto Guzzi Eldorado.

Photo courtesy of Rick.

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Additional explanation from Rick on how the Bunn breather works:

How it functions in a nutshell is since you have a “pumping” that occurs under the pistons, due to the air they move in what is basically a sealed space (except for the two hoses on top of the crankcase for the breather) if you put a one way valve at one end allowing flow only out, and a one way valve at another place allowing air to only enter the “sealed space” every time the pistons move down and displace air, it will exit the crankcase, when the piston goes to TDC, it creates a sort of vacuum in the crankcase, so at this point the valve that allows only air “IN” opens and outside air enters the crankcase. Its just like how an air compressor works! Basically you are constantly bringing fresh air into the case at the intake one way valve, and flushing out through the two “exhaust” one way valves, essentially you are moving fresh outside air into your crankcase at a rate of about 2 liters per minute, while the engine is running. This “frees up” the engine, as there is no resistance when a piston goes down the bore, as the displaced air simple exits, pushing open the one way valves. It even makes a funky sound like an air compressor out the two exhaust hoses. you can see the flappers in the valves moving rapidly as the engine is running, and you can feel the air coming out the 2 exhausts. Its amazing how much pumping takes place BELOW the pistons. I hope this helps….

Clutch plate / intermediate plate alignment

Updated: 2011 May 19

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Thanks to John Greco for sending me the bolt length information for five speed transmissions via personal email.

If you have ever replaced the clutch plates, you know that you have to be careful during reassembly to align the inner teeth on the clutch plates and the outer teeth between the intermediate plate and the flywheel. Failure to do so will result in a bent intermediate plate and/or clutch plates that are difficult to engage with the clutch hub from the transmission. Doing this by hand without a special tool can be tedious.

If you remove the clutch hub from the transmission, you can use it to align the inner teeth of the two clutch plates. As for aligning the intermediate plate, what you really need is some way to compress the springs before installing the ring gear so that you can visually see the teeth engaging properly. Fortunately, the end of the crankshaft is threaded and you can use a long bolt through the center of the clutch hub for just this purpose.

The only thing tricky about the bolt is it's somewhat uncommon thread pitch of 1.5 mm (1.25 mm and 1.75 mm are the common thread pitch sizes).

• Four speed transmissions use a clutch input hub that is approximately 34 mm thick. This requires a bolt of the following size: 12 mm × 1.5 mm × 70 mm
• Five speed transmissions use a clutch input hub that is approximately 53 mm thick. This requires a bolt of the following size: 12 mm × 1.5 mm × 90 mm

Clutch push rod tube seal installation

Updated: 2007 Feb 12

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The following file demonstrates the proper direction by which to install the clutch push rod tube seals.

Crankcase cracks

Updated: 2009 Nov 30

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While relatively rare, engine cases do sometimes crack.

Thanks to Cam Conklin and Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for providing the following information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Cam's own words:

Just spent an educational two days with Charlie tearing into my Eldo's engine. I had finally had it with the annoying oil leak that its had since I got it. Learned a lot about the inner workings by watching Charlie at work. Anyway, once the engine was on the bench, Charlie laid it down on the timing chest and filled the bell housing with soapy water. He then pressurized the sump and sure enough, bubbles from under the rear main bearing up near the cam plug. Thought for sure the gasket was compromised. After we tore it town further, the source became apparent. The gasket was still in great condition. However, there is a nearly microscopic crack in the block beneath where the rear main bearing and gasket sits - on the flat machined edge. Location is just around the 7 o'clock of the cam plug. Hard to believe this would cause the escape of oil, but the crack must widen when the block gets hot. That would explain the oil drips only while/after riding. Charlie had another ‘74 Eldo block in his stash, and that will be used.

And some photos and more information about the above crack from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle. In Charlie's own words:

This is the second block I've seen cracked in the same place - both were “waffle” cases, the first was a ‘72 Ambo ( “Dave's Ambo” ) and now Cam's. Only took me three times pulling the Ambo engine before I found the crack (very easy to miss if you don't know where to look), got smart and pressure tested Cam's before we tore it down.

Cracked just to the left of the oil hole.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

Cracked just to the left of the oil hole.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

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Wider view.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

Wider view.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

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View from inside. Squiggle isn't the crack. Crack stops about 4mm from the edge.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

View from inside. Squiggle isn't the crack. Crack stops about 4mm from the edge.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

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Cylinder head guard end caps

Updated: 2006 Jan 12

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It is not uncommon for the end caps (plugs) at each end of the tube to become lost, thereby allowing water, dirt, etc. into the tube - eventually rusting it out. Plus, it just doesn't look as nice. After considerable searching, I found suitable replacement plugs at my local Ace Hardware store. The ³⁄₈ in black plastic plugs fit snugly inside each tube, and the top of the plug just covers the outside diameter of the tube.

Cylinder head work

Updated: 2010 Sep 18

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The listings here should be considered good places to get solid work done on cylinder heads at a reasonable price. However, they should not be considered the top-of-the-line, used by go-fast-racers everywhere, best of the best. If you are looking to squeeze every bit out of your engine, want to have your heads ported, and have the best of the best done, then you need to contact Mike Rich Motorsports. Mike Rich is fantastic. This isn't to say that the folks listed below aren't qualified. They are and I've used them and been happy with them. I mention this only because I don't want you to expect these guys to give you top-shelf heads for bottom basement pricing. They'll do a basic service (valves, guides, grind, shim for spring pressure, etc) and send you on your way without a lot missing from your wallet.

If you don't live near one of the shops I list below, you should probably find somebody local. There are good machinists everywhere and there is really no reason to ship your stuff across the country just because I mention that they've done good work for me. If you own an older machine, you are going to need a machinist. Best to find one local that you trust.

Cylinder material identification

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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There are three different types of cylinders that are commonly found on these bikes. Here is how to identify each:

• Chrome - The material will appear shiny and smooth. Hash marks should not be visible. Absolutely no magnetic pull. Peeling be may evident exposing the bare aluminum below.
• Steel sleeved - A ring where the sleeve was inserted will be clearly visible from both the top and bottom. The material will appear less shiny than chrome. Hash marks may or may not be visible. Very strong magnetic pull - just like placing the magnet on anything else that is steel in your shop.
• Nikasil/Nigusil - The material will appear shiny. Hash marks will most likely be visible. Has a slight magnetic pull; certainly not as strong as steel, but definitely a little pull. If the cylinders were made by Gilardoni (aftermarket only, I think), then the Gilardoni logo will be placed between the bottom two fins at the 6 o'clock position nearest the base gasket (visible from the outside).

Cylinder plating services

Updated: 2008 Aug 30

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It is nearly always a better value to simply purchase complete Gilardoni Nikasil plated cylinder kits (complete with new pistons, wrist pins, rings, and circlips). But, if the size you need is no longer available, then a Nikasil plating service may be your only alternative. Here are a few services.

• Bore Tech
• Harper's Moto Guzzi
• Langcourt - Bob Pearson had a Langcourt plated cylinder on his V700 seize up and destroy both the cylinder and the piston. Investigation as to the root cause is underway.
• Millennium Technologies - Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing uses this company recommends them highly. I had (2008 Mar 05) an existing nikisil plated cylinder replated by Millennium Technologies (a broken ring stripped the original plating). I was very happy with their work.
• US Chrome - Curtis Harper of Harper's Moto Guzzi has used US Chrome in the past. But has now switched to using Millennium Technologies. Curtis reports US Chrome had a tendency of breaking cylinder fins when they stamped an identification number on each cylinder; hence the move to Millennium Technologies.

Cylinder stud O-ring locations

Updated: 2010 Jul 20

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Guzziology tells you exactly where to put these little O-rings, but there always seems to be some confusion. So here it is again:

1. Put the base gasket against the block.
2. Put two of the O-rings on top of the base gasket. They go on the two shorter studs, the ones at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock.
3. Put the cylinder on.
4. Put the head gasket on the cylinder.
5. Put the head on.
6. Put the remaining 4 O-rings under the rocker arm trestle. They go on the four longer studs.
7. Put the rocker arm trestle on.

Cylinder stud washers

Updated: 2011 Mar 23

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Thanks to Howard Gilbert for helping me identify these washers in private communication via email.

Moto Guzzi wisely specified the use of steel washers between the aluminum cylinder head and the steel securing nuts. These washers are usually found under the four nuts that secure the rocker arm trestle. However, they are commonly missing from the two short cylinder studs. The washer used on the short cylinder stud nearest the spark plug is easy to replace as it is the same size as the four washers used with the rocker arm trestle. The washer used on the other short cylinder stud is a bit special, as the OD must be smaller in order to fit into the available space. Moto Guzzi used a variety of part numbers to reference these various washers:

• First and second editions of the V700 spare parts catalog
  • MG# 95100315 for the 5 flat washers
  • MG# 12021600 for the 1 special OD flat washer
• Third edition of the V700 spare parts catalog, first and second editions of the V750 spare parts catalog
  • MG# 95100315 for the 5 flat washers (same part number as above)
  • MG# 95004210 for the 1 special OD flat washer
• First edition of the V850 spare parts catalog (note the move from flat washers to wave washers)
  • MG# 14018400 for the 5 wave washers
  • MG# 95129180 for the 1 special OD wave washer

Today you can reference the V850 part numbers and use the updated wave washers.

Displacement - ways to increase it

Updated: 2006 Feb 17

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Alright, I'm just learning about this, so the information presented here is certainly not expert and does not come from direct experience. That being said, I believe it to be accurate and - of course - useful.

Engine (and transmission) removal

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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There are several good ways to remove the engine and transmission from the bike. Personally, I've had very good luck with the following technique:

1. Place the bike on the center stand. Wrap a strap or rope around the center stand and tie it to the front wheel in such a way that the bike cannot roll off the center stand. I also usually fit a 4 in × 4 in chunk of wood under each center stand leg. The extra height facilitates the removal of the rear wheel and makes everything a bit easier to work on.
2. Remove rear wheel, rear drive, rear brake linkage, and swing arm.
3. Remove tank, seat, side covers, battery, and starter.
4. Remove mufflers. The head pipes can stay in place but you'll want to loosen them up just a bit so you can pivot them out of your way to gain access to the rear transmission bolt and shift linkage.
5. Remove air box and both carbs. You can either remove the carbs from the intakes OR remove the intakes from the head. Either way will work. I leave the cables connected and let them dangle out of the way.
6. Unhook the clutch cable and remove the battery tray.
7. Remove the wire going to the neutral switch and - possibly - a grounding wire connected to one of the transmission cover bolts.
8. Loosen - but do not remove - the front engine mounting bolt.
9. Support the rear of the engine with a jack just enough so that you can loosen and remove the rear transmission mounting bolt.
10. Remove the foot pegs and shift linkage.
11. Remove the nuts that secure the transmission to the engine (bell housing).
12. Wrap a couple of rags around the front down tubes OR fit water pipe insulating foam around the down tubes OR fit plastic shower curtain rod covers over the down tubes OR…just find someway to protect the frame :>
13. Jack up the jack under the rear of the engine as high as it will go.
14. The engine and transmission will pivot upward in the frame. Do not allow the cylinder head fins to come into contact with the front down tubes (we are trying to leave the paint on the frame).
15. Slide the transmission off the engine and withdraw it from the bike.

The complete clutch assembly is now fully exposed and work can be performed on everything inside the bell housing. If I want to go the extra step and remove the engine, I follow this same technique. Then, I do the following:

1. Remove the wires for the oil pressure sending unit, generator, and ignition coil.
2. Remove the generator; the generator bracket can be left in place.
3. Block up the engine so that you can remove the front engine bolt; remove the front engine bolt.
4. With a helper on one side (my wife) and me on the other, we both lift the engine (by the cylinder heads) so that the bottom clears.
5. Then, my wife slowly lets go and the engine pivots toward me as I raise my cylinder head…clearing the top frame tube and the bottom frame rails.
6. I take a step or two back and set the engine right on the ground.
7. This last step - with my wife helping - takes less than 5 minutes of her time in the garage.

This process requires removing more pieces than some other techniques. But, the pieces are all easy to get off and the net benefit is more pieces that - for me - require less time and work. How long does it take me to remove an engine? Almost always less than 2 hours (my best time is 45 minutes - but that was in a frustrated, caffeine induced frenzy that I don't care to repeat). Assembly always takes longer. Probably 4 hours is a good estimate on assembly for me. Okay, there you have it…one more technique to consider when you do the deed :>

Engine balance

Updated: 2012 Apr 07

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Engine displacement

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Engine displacement in cubic centimeters = Bore in centimeters × Bore in centimeters × 0.7854 × Stroke in centimeters × Number of Cylinders

Engine displacement in cubic inches = Cubic centimeters ÷ 16.39

Engine drain plug size

Updated: 2008 Sep 16

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The size of the drain plug is 20 mm × 1.5 mm. This is the same size as is commonly used on Subaru vehicles for the engine oil drain plug.

Engine fill plug/dip stick size

Updated: 2008 Sep 16

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The size of the fill plug or dip stick is 20 mm × 1.5 mm. This is the same size as is commonly used on Subaru vehicles for the engine oil drain plug.

Engine oil leaks from the bell housing

Updated: 2008 Nov 11

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Leaks from the small weep hole in the bell housing immediately above the engine drain plug seem to be more common than we would like them to be. Fortunately, there are good fixes for these leaks.

First, make sure you know what is leaking. Is it engine oil or gear lube from the transmission? Touch it, feel it, smell it, compare it to what is on your dipstick, etc. Make sure you know what is leaking.

Easy fixes: There are really only two easy-to-fix problems that can cause a leak at the weep hole above the engine drain plug:

1. The engine oil drain plug is not sealing well - wind could whip it back up and make it appear that it is coming from the weep hole in the bell housing. Fix, of course, is to fit a new or better sealing washer.
2. The hoses that connect the breather to the pipes sticking out of the top of the bell housing are cracked or not secured properly with hose clamps - oil escapes here and runs down into the bell housing. Fix is to tighten clamps and/or replace hoses.

More in depth fixes: If fixing these problems doesn't solve the oil leak, then the only thing left to do is pull the transmission and then remove the clutch assembly and flywheel and fix a number of possible problems inside the bell housing.

Visual inspection: With the transmission and flywheel removed, and before I clean up any oil, I carefully examine the inside of the bell housing. Sometimes it is possible to determine the location of the leak. Many times, however, it is an oily mess all over inside there and next to impossible to determine the leak's origin from a visual inspection.

Soapy water test: I then take the time to apply very soapy water to the inside of the bell housing and I lightly pressurize the sump with my air compressor. Of course, I must plug the breather-to-atmosphere “belch” tube so that the air doesn't escape from that location (a ³⁄₈ in ratchet extension works very well to plug this hose). I pressurize the sump through the oil fill hole. Sometimes, but not always, I can see bubbles escaping from the leaky location. This technique is especially good for identifying leaks from the cam plug. Do keep in mind that we are not trying to inflate the crankcase, merely pressurizing it a bit. Some people get all up in arms about doing this, but it really isn't a big deal. You are not going to push out the front main seal as there is a physical barrier to prevent such an occurrence. And, you'll be watching the rear main seal. In my experience, you can easily apply 25 - 30 PSI of air pressure without any worry whatsoever (the oil pump routinely pumps out 60 PSI or more and the oil seals are not dislodged nor damaged).

Holistic approach: Even after my visual inspection and soapy water test, I never fix only one possible problem. I always take an all-or-none approach and address everything at once. The cost of all the fixes is not very expensive and certainly not worth the effort of removing the transmission a second time.

1. Cam Plug can leak oil at the seam where it is pressed into the engine case - Clean it thoroughly and J-B WELD OR silicone the seam.
2. Breather inlet pipe gasket may leak - Replace with a new gasket. I'm not a fan of using gasket goo on much of anything. However, this is one location where I do use a light coating of Permatex Super “300” Form-A-Gasket Sealant (not silicone).
3. Breather return pipe crush washers may leak - Replace with new aluminum crush washers. Never reuse old crush washers in this location.
4. Rear main bearing flange gasket may leak - Replace with a new gasket. I'm not a fan of using gasket goo on much of anything. However, this is one location where I do use a light coating of Permatex Super “300” Form-A-Gasket Sealant (not silicone).
5. Bottom two bolts on the rear main bearing flange may not be sealing - These threaded holes run through to the inside of the engine case. If not sealed, they will leak oil. I apply a light coating of ThreeBond 1194 semidrying liquid gasket to the threads.
6. Rear main seal may leak - Replace with a new seal. I use oil seals made from Viton.
7. The case itself may be porous. I consider this cause very rare and I've not run across it myself. But, I have heard tales of porous castings that will leak oil. I know of one person who tried everything to stop a leak from the bell housing and it still leaked. So, he thoroughly cleaned the inside of the bell housing and applied a layer of silicone to everything. Problem solved. I've never done this fix and I do not recommend this fix until all other possible leak causes have been fixed and the oil leak persists. In other words, please don't get a butter knife from the kitchen drawer and start applying silicone to the inside of your bell housing unless you've tried everything else and it still leaks. This is not a preventive fix that I recommend…and I've never done this fix.

Engine out? Check these things

Updated: 2009 Apr 21

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If you've gone to all the trouble to remove the engine from your bike, you might as well check and replace as necessary the following items (it sure beats taking the engine out again).

O-ring for cylinder studs (MG# 90706090)

Updated: 2010 Jul 20

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The size of the O-ring (MG# 90706090) used to seal the cylinder studs is approximately 9.6 mm to 10 mm ID × 1.6 mm to 1.8 mm wide (I've seen several sizes in that range sent to me by dealers). Viton O-rings are best, but Buna-N work just fine and are a lot cheaper. Make sure to purchase an O-ring that is sufficiently soft…something with a Shore Durometer (A Scale) = 70 is great. Six O-rings are used per side; 12 total needed.

Here is one place where the inch equivalent will work perfectly fine (and is probably what some dealers are using and sending out, anyway). Just use the Dash size -012 with a Shore Durometer (A Scale) = 70. These are 0.364 in ID × 0.070 in Thick and will work perfectly fine. McMaster-Carr item number 9452K21 (Same as 9452K342) works great.

O-ring for sealing the crankshaft timing gear to the crankshaft (MG# 90706250)

Updated: 2010 Jul 20

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The size of the O-ring (MG# 90706250) used to seal the crankshaft timing gear to the crankshaft is 25 mm ID × 3.5 mm wide. Viton O-rings are best, but Buna-N work just fine and are a lot cheaper. Make sure to purchase an O-ring that is sufficiently soft…something with a Shore Durometer (A Scale) = 70 is great. McMaster-Carr item number 93125K67 or 93125K65 would works fine.

O-ring for special top cylinder nut on V700 models (MG# 90706119)

Updated: 2010 Jul 20

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The size of the special O-ring (MG# 90706119) used to seal the top cylinder nut on V700 models is 12 mm ID × 3 mm wide. Viton O-rings are best, but Buna-N work just fine and are a lot cheaper. Make sure to purchase an O-ring that is sufficiently soft…something with a Shore Durometer (A Scale) = 70 is great. McMaster-Carr item number 9262K266 or 9262K41 works great.

Front main seal cross-reference

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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The size of the front main seal (MG# 90403850 or MG# 90403851) is 38 mm ID × 50 mm OD × 7 mm wide.

Gilardoni cylinder, piston, ring installation instructions

Updated: 2011 Mar 15

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Thanks to Ralf Brinkmann for sending the scan of the original document, the text in Italian, and the English and German translations to me in a private email. While I've tweaked things a bit, the translation is machine-based and imperfect. Be sure to reference the original instructions in PDF format when reading the translated text.

Gilardoni Vittorio S.p.A.

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Thanks to Mauro from Rome, Italy for posting this information on the GuzziTech news group. Here is the contact information for Gilardoni.

Gilardoni Vittorio S.p.A.
Viale Costituzione, 32
23826 Mandello del Lario (LC)
ITALY

Phone: +39 03417071
Fax: +39 0341707215

E-mail: gilardonicilindri>at>gilcil.it
Website: http://www.gilcil.it

Oil filter addition

Updated: 2008 Sep 22

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Thanks to Ralf Brinkmann who posted these photos on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.

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Oil filter addition - Adapting an existing block to use an internal filter

Updated: 2012 Jan 09

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Guzziology covers this technique fairly well. A few pointers from when I converted my Ambassador:

• This modification can only be done on engine cases that have the additional horizontal webbing. This includes all Eldorado models and a very few late Ambassador models (of which mine is one).
• I could not locate an aluminum bolt to plug the existing threaded hole. Instead, I threaded a short length of 8 mm aluminum rod I had on hand. Takes very little time, works great and is a lot easier to find than aluminum fasteners.
• Guzziology mentions using 55 mm long allen head bolts. This is important. Hex head bolts will not fit within the finning on the underneath of the pan. The allen head bolts work perfect.

Oil filter addition - Bill Dudley

Updated: 2009 Jul 27

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Thanks to Bill Dudley who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Bill's own words:

It's always bothered me that the older loopframe Moto Guzzi's don't have any kind of oil filter. I'm not too wild about the later introduced oil filter either, placed as it is inside the oil pan, but that's another rant for another day.

After much research and head scratching, I decided to use an idea sent by Ralf Brinkmann, in which a remote oil filter is mounted somewhere and then the oil supply to the heads is rerouted through the filter by replacing the steel oil line with lines to and from the filter. I realize this only filters a part of the oil that is circulating at any instant, but eventually, all the oil will pass through the filter.

The following is what I ended up building.

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I tried to find a remote filter bracket that I could buy, but all the ones I found for sale were either too big (designed for a car) or had hose barbs for the fittings (I wanted banjo fittings). Therefore I elected to make my own oil filter bracket. The first step was to choose a filter.

The filter I used is a Fram PH3614, which I chose because it's the same filter as used on the add-on oil filter kit for my Norton Commando, and it's small. Experimentation revealed that the threads for the central mounting spigot are ³⁄₄ × 16 (SAE threads). Conveniently, this turns out to be a standard SAE bolt size that you can get in any hardware store. A tap for that thread was sourced on Ebay.

Ebay was also the source for a chunk of ¹⁄₂ in thick aluminum plate, plus ⁹⁄₁₆ in and ⁵⁄₈ in drill bits (I already owned an ¹¹⁄₁₆ in drill bit). I cut off a 4 in by 3 in piece of the aluminum plate, and drilled and tapped the center of it for the ³⁄₄ in × 16 in bolt. The bolt was drilled and tapped for 10 mm × 1.25 mm metric banjo bolts, which bolts and hoses I sourced from parts removed from my Honda CBR600F brake system when I upgraded it to braided brake hoses. Finally, the aluminum plate was drilled and tapped once more for the inlet oil banjo, again, 10 mm × 1.25 mm thread.

Since I have the “Field/Nolan Alternator” kit installed on my Ambassador, I had this nice void where I could install the filter, in the space vacated by the back half of the old generator. Scrap steel sheet (from an old VCR lid) was bent and drilled to make support brackets to hang the filter assembly from the “tray” under the central frame tube.

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This is the view from the left size, showing one of the support brackets. The raw edge of the bracket has since been covered with rubber “edging” to keep it from abrading the wires that pass across it. There is a similar bracket for the right side which I left off so the first picture would show the details of the hoses attached to the top of the filter assembly.

Notes on Installing/Replacing the Filter.

When installing a new filter, I pre-fill the filter with oil so that the heads don't have to wait for the filter to fill up before they see any oil. Obviously the amount of oil needed when changing the oil is increased by the volume of the filter, assuming we want the same level in the sump. The filter holds about a cup of oil.

When removing the filter, I find I have to tilt the filter (now full of oil) about 15° or 20° from vertical, so there will be a little spillage, but not so much that a rag sitting below the filter won't capture it. (Note: I have not tried this with the gas tank installed yet.)

The hose lengths I used to connect it up are as follows:

• 2 (two) 11 in hoses (banjo center to center) with straight banjos.
• one 14.5 in hose (banjo center to center) with straight banjos.

Oil filter addition - Escher kit

Updated: 2006 Jan 12

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For some time now I've wanted to add an oil filter to my Ambassador. When I ran across the complete kit from Escher (item number 989042), I decided I couldn't live without it. After sending them the main oil line complete with the oil pressure valve, I waited patiently for the package to arrive.

When it arrived, I was quite impressed. Here are some photos, installation instructions, and my review of the kit.

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Oil filter addition - Steve Odell's filterless oil filter

Updated: 2010 Sep 23

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Thanks to Steve Odell who posted this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Steve's own words:

FilterMag HPPAN magnet

This is a neodymium iron boron magnet. NdFeB is a type of rare-earth permanent magnet made from an alloy of neodymium, iron, and boron to form the Nd₂Fe₁₄B tetragonal crystalline structure. This material is currently the strongest known type of permanent magnet.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

FilterMag HPPAN magnet

This is a neodymium iron boron magnet. NdFeB is a type of rare-earth permanent magnet made from an alloy of neodymium, iron, and boron to form the Nd₂Fe₁₄B tetragonal crystalline structure. This material is currently the strongest known type of permanent magnet.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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FilterMag

The picture on the box does not represent the HPPAN magnet. The HPPAN model (also called the TM360) is a flat rectangular magnet with sides of 3.1875 in × 2.9375 in. It has a pull force of 50 pounds. It cost me USD $44.99 from Jegs.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

FilterMag

The picture on the box does not represent the HPPAN magnet. The HPPAN model (also called the TM360) is a flat rectangular magnet with sides of 3.1875 in × 2.9375 in. It has a pull force of 50 pounds. It cost me USD $44.99 from Jegs.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Machined loop oil pan

I measured and marked an area near the drain plug and had my machinist mill out the fins without digging into the pan itself. I felt this was the optimum location for it. Two skids fit right over it and there was no engine parts directly above it. Be sure to note to your machinist that the pan is V-shaped. He must block it up slightly on one side to get a level cut. Machining cost was USD $30.00.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Machined loop oil pan

I measured and marked an area near the drain plug and had my machinist mill out the fins without digging into the pan itself. I felt this was the optimum location for it. Two skids fit right over it and there was no engine parts directly above it. Be sure to note to your machinist that the pan is V-shaped. He must block it up slightly on one side to get a level cut. Machining cost was USD $30.00.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Fits well

As it turned out the magnet height is almost exactly the same as the fin height. It does not need to fit the cutout tightly on the sides.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Fits well

As it turned out the magnet height is almost exactly the same as the fin height. It does not need to fit the cutout tightly on the sides.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Machinists Aluminum Blast paint

I used a high heat paint commonly used on intake manifolds to coat the cut area. It is called Machinists Aluminum Blast. Any type of high heat paint would do. This is not absolutely necessary but these magnets do have a tendency to trap particles between it and the surface so I painted it to prevent any corrosion from forming.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Machinists Aluminum Blast paint

I used a high heat paint commonly used on intake manifolds to coat the cut area. It is called Machinists Aluminum Blast. Any type of high heat paint would do. This is not absolutely necessary but these magnets do have a tendency to trap particles between it and the surface so I painted it to prevent any corrosion from forming.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Notched skid plates

Using my grinder I notched the skid plates to the width of the magnet. The worn edges of the grinder wheel made a nice radius on the cutouts.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Notched skid plates

Using my grinder I notched the skid plates to the width of the magnet. The worn edges of the grinder wheel made a nice radius on the cutouts.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Notches fit over magnet

The notches fit over the magnet and just touch it when in place. I painted the skids with the same aluminum blast paint.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Notches fit over magnet

The notches fit over the magnet and just touch it when in place. I painted the skids with the same aluminum blast paint.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Finished skid plates

When finished the magnet will suck the skid plates up to it. The magnet cannot fall out while riding.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Finished skid plates

When finished the magnet will suck the skid plates up to it. The magnet cannot fall out while riding.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Installed pan with magnet

It is very easy to install. The magnet holds the skids to it so you can hold the whole assembly in place with one hand while turning in the bolts.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Installed pan with magnet

It is very easy to install. The magnet holds the skids to it so you can hold the whole assembly in place with one hand while turning in the bolts.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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After 350 mile test run

I drained the oil and then dropped the pan after about 350 miles. You can clearly see the steel filings mixed in with the oil sludge. With a paper towel I wiped the sludge off and reinstalled the pan.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

After 350 mile test run

I drained the oil and then dropped the pan after about 350 miles. You can clearly see the steel filings mixed in with the oil sludge. With a paper towel I wiped the sludge off and reinstalled the pan.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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After 2,200 miles

Over the course of the next 2,200 miles I drained the oil twice without dropping the pan. When changing oil never remove the magnet from the pan unless you are going to drop the pan. At the third oil change I dropped the pan. This is 2,200 miles worth of sludge.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

After 2,200 miles

Over the course of the next 2,200 miles I drained the oil twice without dropping the pan. When changing oil never remove the magnet from the pan unless you are going to drop the pan. At the third oil change I dropped the pan. This is 2,200 miles worth of sludge.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Oil strainer is clean

I did not touch anything in here after dropping the pan. I just let it drain. The strainer is spotless and so is everything else inside the engine case.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Oil strainer is clean

I did not touch anything in here after dropping the pan. I just let it drain. The strainer is spotless and so is everything else inside the engine case.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Pan before cleaning

The pan itself is very clean except where the magnet is. I did not wipe anything here, I just drained the oil out. The oil I always use is 3 quarts of 15W-40 Rotella-T with 8 oz of STP added. Rotella-T is very high in detergents so it always appears dark colored.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Pan before cleaning

The pan itself is very clean except where the magnet is. I did not wipe anything here, I just drained the oil out. The oil I always use is 3 quarts of 15W-40 Rotella-T with 8 oz of STP added. Rotella-T is very high in detergents so it always appears dark colored.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Cleaning the pan

You can’t see it but the magnet and skids are still stuck to the bottom of the pan. When you pull the bolts out of the pan it stays there until you wipe off the steel filings. The filings wipe off easily with a paper towel.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Cleaning the pan

You can’t see it but the magnet and skids are still stuck to the bottom of the pan. When you pull the bolts out of the pan it stays there until you wipe off the steel filings. The filings wipe off easily with a paper towel.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Cleaning the pan

With a few paper towels everything will come off. The high detergent Rotella-T keeps everything in suspension until it is grabbed by the magnet. I believe the stickiness of the STP also helps to bind the sludge and filings together.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Cleaning the pan

With a few paper towels everything will come off. The high detergent Rotella-T keeps everything in suspension until it is grabbed by the magnet. I believe the stickiness of the STP also helps to bind the sludge and filings together.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Finished clean pan

You can see the edges of the skids still under the pan with the magnet. All cleaned and ready to reinstall. All that sludge never made it past the magnet into my engine.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

Finished clean pan

You can see the edges of the skids still under the pan with the magnet. All cleaned and ready to reinstall. All that sludge never made it past the magnet into my engine.

Photo courtesy of Steve Odell.

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Oil pressure

Updated: 2009 Apr 19

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Here is some information I wrote in reply to a question asked by Mike Jones on the Yahoo! MGconvert news group. Mike was inquiring about the normality of his observed oil pressure after adding an oil pressure gauge.

I've have done considerable fiddling with oil pressure gauges and modifying different components to get the best oil pressure possible. Here is what I've learned with my machines (2000 Quota 1100 and 1971 Ambassador).

1. Keep in mind that the original oil pressure switch is set to ground out at 3.6 PSI.
2. Oil pressure with cold oil is MUCH different than oil pressure hot oil, especially at low RPMs. It takes me about 10 miles to get the oil hot (and that is living in Florida or Arizona). With cold oil, I can easily pump 70 - 75 PSI revving the engine a bit. With hot oil, the pressure will max out no higher than my pressure relief valve setting, and can get 10 - 15 PSI lower than that setting when running in hot weather. A couple examples:
   1. Cool morning out here in the desert, temps between 50° - 60° F, riding at speed I'll easily obtain near max pressure (down 2 - 4 PSI from where I've set on my oil pressure relief valve). Same day, at idle, I might get 7 - 12 PSI, depending on how hard I've been pushing the engine.
   2. Hot day in Phoenix, temps between 110° - 115° F, riding at speed I might be down 10 - 15 PSI from my max pressure (again, from where I've set the pressure on my relief valve). Do a lot of stop and go traffic, I might get down 20 - 25 PSI. Same day, at idle, I might get 4 PSI.
3. Oil pressure is bled off at many locations. Some it is bled off as designed, other pressure it bled off with component wear. Without going into a lot of detail, let me focus on a few locations that are critical:
   1. Oil pan gasket - There are numerous passageways that transmit pressured oil to the front and rear mains, etc. This gasket must be in perfect condition, especially around where these passageways meet. I used to reuse this gasket if it looked okay. I don't any longer because a slight imperfection can lead to a loss of oil pressure.
   2. Oil filter - If it is loose, it will certainly bleed off massive pressure. But, I had a pan on which the oil filter surface was not milled, only a rough casting that looked “pretty smooth” . I never thought about it until I was chasing lost pressure and found leaks there. I had the surface milled by my local machinist and that took care of that problem.
   3. Oil pressure relief valve - This is a huge culprit. I built a tester specifically so that I could determine the pressure it was set to bleed off at. I've dealt with probably half a dozen of these relief valves so far and many?/most?/all? have massive wear and don't seal well when fully closed. Invariably I find myself using valve grinding compound to make a good seal. Then, I adjust the pressure at which it blows using my tester and my air compressor. While the manuals provide a value of about 60 PSI as the blow-off point (or even a range of 45 - 60 on early models), I use 65 PSI (or a bit higher) on my personal machines. I've not experienced any difficulty with blown seals using these higher values. I know a racer who always set his blow-off point a lot higher without any blown seals running really high revs.

   There are many other locations where oil pressure can bleed off, but most of them require significant engine disassembly to examine.

4. Gauge accuracy is always a concern, especially at the extremes of a given gauge, as my understanding is that gauges are most inaccurate at either end of their extremes. This tends not to bother us at the high extreme because we aren't bothered if we see 55 PSI vs 60 PSI. But, at the low end, we get really concerned when we see 2 PSI (below the factory limit of 3.6 PSI) and maybe the real value is 4 PSI (just above the factory limit of 3.6 PSI). I've not conducted gauge accuracy tests, so I really can't say how accurate gauges are across brands or within lots from the same manufacturer, etc. I can say that the inexpensive Sun Pro gauge I used once was just as accurate (from observed readings) as my better quality Murphy Switchgage. I fit the Murphy Switchgage because of it's the ability to illuminate my dash indicator light at a given pressure. My personal gut feeling is that most gauges sold today are pretty accurate.
5. Pressure and Flow - both are necessary but one does not tell you about another. Yes, we quickly infer that we have sufficient flow because our pressure is high. But, we are very quick to believe that we have insufficient flow when our pressure drops. That is not necessarily the case at all. I've never even tried to figure out what kind of flow is achieved by any pump. It would be fun to have a flow meter hooked up, though :> When the engine is at idle, it is working a lot less hard and it needs less flow and less pressure. Raise the RPMs and the engine needs more…and the oil pump supplies more. So, don't get worried about seeing wild swings in pressure depending on revs.

   I (more than I should) watch my pressure gauge at idle waiting on a light to change green, but I largely forget it when I am in motion. As long as the pressure increases with revs and doesn't completely plummet at idle, I shouldn't give it a second thought.

In sum, I think what you are seeing is relatively normal, though I'm a bit concerned with only 2 PSI with hot oil at idle - and your weather is still pretty cool, yes? The next time you change oil, I would check the things I mentioned above (especially the oil pressure relief valve). Other than that, ride the thing. There is a reason almost all vehicles do not come equipped with gauges - people freak out when they see a gauge do something and don't understand what is happening. I'm not saying that gauges can't be very useful tools, just that they can easily lead people to take actions that are not warranted.

Oil pressure gauge

Updated: 2009 Sep 11

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I initially wanted to temporarily connect an oil pressure gauge so that I could do a little investigation into my bottom end components. Once I got it finished, I decided to leave it on. Here is the process that I went through. Please read this entire section as I made important discoveries along the way.

My initial set up

Things to consider:

• The threads in the block are 12 mm × 1.5 mm. In the US, the commonly available oil pressure gauges come with ¹⁄₈ in NPT and ¹⁄₄ in NPT adapters. Rather than permanently modify the case, I purchased an adapter that has a 12 mm × 1.5 mm male end and a ¹⁄₈ in NPT female end.
• Things are a little tight around the generator bracket (or alternator bracket, in my case). Rather than struggle with the tight quarters, I extended everything up 4 in with a ¹⁄₈ in NPT brass pipe.
• A ¹⁄₈ in NPT brass Tee is the perfect way to connect both the mechanical oil pressure gauge and the stock electrical oil pressure switch. In order to attach the stock electrical switch, drill out one end of the tee with a ¹³⁄₃₂ in drill and tap to 12 mm × 1.5 mm.
• I pushed the small diameter white plastic line through an appropriate length of ⁵⁄₃₂ in ID black vacuum hose to give it a little protection and to make it less noticeable.
• The gauge I used is not waterproof. But, it can be made very water resistant by liberally waxing the face of the gauge - taking special effort to push the wax under the bezel.

Parts list:

• ISSPRO R7962 Adapter (12 mm × 1.5 mm × ¹⁄₈ in NPT).
• Watts Anderson-Barrows A-721 pipe nipple (¹⁄₈ in NPT × 4 in); available in the plumbing aisle of most hardware stores
• Watts Anderson-Barrows A-704 female pipe tee (¹⁄₈ in NPT); available in the plumbing aisle of most hardware stores
• Sunpro (Actron) CP8206 mechanical oil pressure gauge and included fittings

Photos:

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My intermediate set up

Things to consider:

• I decided to modify my initial set up for a couple of reasons. First, it was unsightly. Second, I wanted far fewer connections and, thus, far fewer places for potential leaks. The heart of my new set up is an old NOS Murphy swichgage that I purchased on ebay for less than USD $10.00. The thing I like about the Murphy gauge is that it combines a switch and a gauge into a single device. I was able to run a single, simple line from my engine block to my gauge, then hook up the electrical wire for the oil pressure indicator light. Furthermore, I am able to set the minimum oil pressure at which the oil light will illuminate. Very simply and very cool.
• Important Note: I originally tried to use a ISSPRO R7962 Adapter (12 mm × 1.5 mm × ¹⁄₈ in NPT).
  The adapter comes with a rubber O-ring that is *supposed* to securely seal the adapter to the block. I trusted it and it worked flawlessly for over 250 miles. Then, in an instant, hot oil was being pumped past the O-ring at an alarming rate. Do not underestimate the mess this will cause all over your bike or how nervous you will be for the next 1000 miles as you wonder what damage you did to your engine. Still trying to use the purchased adapter, I attempted to get it to seal properly to the engine block with an aluminum crush washer. This failed, too. There simply isn't sufficient sealing surface on the adapter to get the job done. Don't waste your time trying to use this adapter. Make your own!
  
  To make my adapter, I started off with a 12 mm × 1.5 mm bolt, drilled it clear through with a smaller sized bit, then drilled and tapped the head with a ¹⁄₈ in NPT tap. Using a bolt provides a great sealing surface for the aluminum crush washer.
• I have found that teflon tape on the threads tends to disintegrate with heat and use. Make your connections seal without it.

Parts list:

• One 12 mm × 1.5 mm bolt. An odd size, to be sure. Rather than spend half a day scrambling around town looking for one, I purchased a box full from McMaster-Carr.
• Sunpro (Actron) CP7554 nylon tubing kit
• Murphy swichgage oil pressure gauge

Photos (I still have some more work I want to do to improve the appearance of the mounting bracket):

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My final set up

Things to consider:

• I decided to modify my intermediate set up to get rid of the plastic tubing. So, I took careful length measurements and went down to Amazon Hose in Tampa, Florida and had them build me a braided stainless steel hose for less than USD $30.00. In the process, they also replaced the adapter. I wish I had gone there in the first place and not messed with all of time consuming homemade solutions I had come up with. Oh well, live and learn.

Parts list:

• #4 male JIC × 12 mm × 1.5 mm steel male metric thread adapter
• #4 0.187 in ID 3000 PSI stainless steel braided/teflon hose
• Stainless steel ¹⁄₄ in Female JIC for #4 hose (this is the fitting that connects the hose to the adapter)
• Stainless steel ¹⁄₈ in MP with collar for #4 hose (this is the fitting that connect the hose to the gauge)

Photos:

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Bill Cohoon's set up

Bill Cohoon sent me this photo of his oil pressure gauge mount.

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Oil pressure relief valve

Updated: 2009 Dec 10

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Oil pressure sending unit

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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The Italian company Facet manufactures the oil pressure sending units used on all Moto Guzzi Big Twins since 1967. I do not know if they have always been the manufacturer, but I believe them to be the current manufacturer. Here is the vital data specific to this switch:

• Facet part number 7.0033
• Threads: 12 mm × 1.5 mm
• Tip diameter: 4 mm
• The latest replacements require a 21 mm wrench. Earlier versions required a 22 mm wrench.
• The pressure that activates (grounds / earths) the switch is 0.25 BAR (3.6 PSI).

Similar oil pressure sending units (same threads, different activation pressure and wire connector) from Facet include the following:

Oil pressure sending unit cross references

Updated: 2012 Jan 14

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Although not identical to the original, the following oil pressure sending units have worked well for me (and are readily available).

• AC Delco E1846 (available from O’Reilly Auto Parts)
• Altrom Imports ATM 1431020 (available from NAPA)
• Duralast PS158 or Neihoff OP22691 (available from AutoZone). Thanks to Mike Jones for providing me with this substitute.
• Echlin Ignition Parts ECH OP6065 (available from NAPA)
• GP Sorensen 36-5028 (available from Advance Auto Parts)
• Import Direct 17-0572 (available from O’Reilly Auto Parts)
• Master Pro Ignition 2-8005 (available from O’Reilly Auto Parts)
• Mileage Plus Electrical MPE OP6065SB (available from NAPA)

Oil pump gear - woodruff key

Updated: 2008 Jan 15

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A woodruff key (MG# 91701232) is used to lock the oil pump gear to the shaft on on the oil pump (on all timing gear models - timing chain models use a rectangular key).

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The size of the key is as follows:

• Style: Full Radius
• Key Number: 207
• USA Standard Number: 302 1/2
• Nominal Key Diameter: ⁵⁄₁₆ in
• Width: ³⁄₃₂ in
• Length: 0.311 in
• Height: 0.140 in

A suitable replacement is available from McMaster-Carr. Search for part number 98525A060.

Piston coating services

Updated: 2008 Nov 19

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CAUTION!! After having my pistons coated, I've come to the conclusion that I wish I had never bothered. Here's why:

I started out with a nice set of Nikisil plated cylinders and a matching set of quite nice pistons. There was nothing wrong with the pistons, but I figured an additional layer of wear protection on the skirts couldn't hurt anything. So, I sent the pistons off to Swain Tech and they did their thing. Did a good job, too. Certainly no complaints from me about the work they performed.

It wasn't until I received the pistons back from Swain Tech and attempted to fit them into the cylinders that I realized I had a problem. The pistons would not fit because the coating on the skirt was too thick. Again, Swain Tech had done nothing wrong. I had failed to properly calculate the clearances required.

Swain Tech coated pistons, TBC on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt

Swain Tech coated pistons, TBC on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt

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Swain Tech coated pistons, TBC on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt

Swain Tech coated pistons, TBC on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt

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UG! What to do? I called Swain Tech and they told me this was a common occurrence and to simply sand off the extra with 400 grit sand paper. Oh joy, now I get to hand sand pistons to get the proper clearances. Not exactly my idea of a good plan. I ran this past several experts who said sanding or Scotch-Brite the pistons with these Moly type coatings was not a bad idea. BUT, if I remove too much of the coating, it could get down to the aluminum of the piston that Swain Tech glass bead blasted to encourage better adhesion with the coating. That would be a very bad thing.

At the end of the day I figured I had already made one mistake by having the pistons coated in the first place. I certainly did not want to make another mistake and destroy my cylinders and rings. So, I sourced another pair of properly sized pistons.

In my final analysis, I'm not sure what good coating the piston skirt can do with the clearances that are supposed to be run on our Guzzis. Certainly one could have the piston skirts coated and then have the cylinders bored and nikisil plated to match. The skirt would then fit in the cylinder properly, but standard rings would then be that much more expanded yielding larger ring end gaps and less support of the ring in the ring groove around the perimeter of the piston. Seems to me like a lot of work and effort for nothing more than a tradeoff in gains/losses.

At the end of the day, I do not recommend piston skirt coatings.

Here are a few services:

• Swain Tech Coatings - Check out the “TBC on Dome and PC-9 on Skirt” service.
• Picoatec - German company. Check out the “Mos2-Coating” service. Recommended by Manuel from Spain.

Piston rings - alternative sources

Updated: 2008 Apr 02

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• Deves - I've used these and they work well. Part number MC-152 for V700. Part number MC-121 for Ambassador. Part number MC-125 for Eldorado.
• Total Seal - I've not tried these, but I hear they are quite good. NOT compatible with Nikisil.

Prime the oil pump

Updated: 2007 Dec 18

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Any time the engine oil is allowed to drain completely from the oil pump (like when you remove the oil pump from the timing chest), it is very important that the oil pump be primed again before operation. If the oil pump is not primed, it is very possible that it will cavitate and your engine will die a quick, painful, and expensive death. I've heard more than once that the toughest time for an engine is immediately after rebuild…before the engine oil gets circulated. Of course, we all use engine assembly lube on our bearings during assembly. But, the vital oil still has to be pumped (and the sooner the better).

Sometimes the pump can be primed simply by removing both spark plugs and cranking the engine over for 30 or 45 seconds. You should see the oil pressure light go out. But, many times this technique is not enough.

Instead, you may need to crack open one of the banjo bolts securing a high pressure oil delivery line running to either cylinder head. Doing so allows the oil pump to move the oil to a location with very low resistance to flow. To get a picture of what is happening here, imagine filling a drinking straw half way up with water. Now, place your finger over the end and try to blow the water out. It can't be done unless you give the air some place to go. A similar thing is happening inside the engine. But, with the banjo bolt cracked open, you should see oil get pumped out of the line when you crank the engine over (again, with both spark plugs removed).

If you still don't see oil coming from the banjo bolt, you can pressurize the sump. Shove a plug in the oil breather tube pipe (I find a ³⁄₈ in drive extension fits nicely), remove the dipstick, and use compressed air (using the blower attachment and your air compressor) to push the oil through the oil pump and out the banjo bolt. You can use a rag to make a tight seal around the dipstick hole. Remember, you are not trying to inflate the crankcase like a balloon and turn it into an 8 cylinder. Only pressurize it a bit (20 PSI should be plenty) so that the oil is forced through the lines and out the banjo bolt. So, give it a little pressure and a little time and it will work. Once you see a good flow of oil, tighten the banjo bolt down. Then, crank the engine over to see if the light goes out. If all is well, install the spark plugs and fire it up.

Rear main seal cross-reference

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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The size of the rear main seal (MG# 90405367) is 53 mm ID × 68 mm OD × 10 mm wide. Viton seals with serrated lips are recommended.

• Corteco 12012561B (53X68X10/8)

Sludge trap

Updated: 2011 Mar 01

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The sludge trap is located on the front end of the crankshaft pin. Oil continuously flows through this passage under pressure from the oil pump. The purpose of the trap is to prevent very small particles from being pumped past the connecting rod bearings. The sludge trap can only be accessed when the crankshaft is removed from the engine. It should be cleaned whenever the crankshaft is removed. Cleaning is not a part of any “regular” maintenance schedule.

The photo below shows the sludge trap half full. In reality, this means that the particles are at least partially blocking the oil holes that provide lubrication to the connecting rod bearings. In other words, the photo below shows a bad scenario in which oil cannot flow. Damage to the crank pin and half shells is the result.

Sludge trap as found on Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, and 850 California Police motorcycles.

Photo courtesy of Carl Krall.

Sludge trap as found on Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, and 850 California Police motorcycles.

Photo courtesy of Carl Krall.

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Timing cover - gears vs. chains

Updated: 2008 Jul 11

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I extracted this information from Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mark's own words…

There are two different covers: chain or gear. Gear covers like yours has webbing at the top that will interfere with the chain…chain covers don't have the webbing. Just smack the webbing sideways with a hammer and they will snap off, then hit the remains with a grinder.

Timing gear replacement

Updated: 2010 Jun 21

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All V7 / V700, all Ambassador, and all but the latest Eldorado loop frames came with three timing gears; one each for the oil pump, crankshaft, and camshaft. Even a few early V7 Sports came with timing gears. My camshaft timing gear broke just north of Bemidji, MN (but that's another story). In the process of replacing the gears, I have learned the following:

• The gears must be replaced as a complete set. Do not be tempted to just replace one gear.
• Not all gears are the same. I've seen the following configurations:
  • Oil: 52 teeth; Crankshaft: 44 teeth; Camshaft: 88 teeth and 5 dowel pin holes; white paint marks. I believe this to be the standard configuration that was used in the V7 / V700 models.
  • Oil: 29 teeth; Crankshaft: 25 teeth; Camshaft: 50 teeth and 6 dowel pin holes; red paint marks. I believe this to be the standard configuration that was used in the Ambassador and Eldorado models (1307-1700).
  • Oil: 31 teeth; Crankshaft: 26 teeth; Camshaft: 52 teeth and 5 dowel pin holes; white paint marks. This is the configuration in my Ambassador. I'm not sure, but I think it was the standard configuration that was used in the V7 Sport (1407-1700). Even within this tooth count, there are differences between the gears. My original camshaft timing gear had smaller holes than my replacement timing gear (not the dowel pin holes, but the large holes bored simply to remove weight/add a little flex).
• If you are going to get a replacement set of timing gears, be sure to count the teeth on your existing gears and get a set that has the same number of teeth. If you don't, you will have to time your valves.
• Replacement is straightforward and pretty easy. Just follow these steps:
  1. Do not remove the engine. This procedure can easily be done with the engine still in the frame.
  2. Drain the engine oil. If you don't, it will run out the front of the timing gear cover.
  3. Remove the three bolts that secure the generator cover.
  4. Remove the three bolts that secure the pulley.
  5. Remove the big nut on the end of the crankshaft. The nut takes a 26 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a pry bar wedged in to the ring gear to prevent the crankshaft from turning. You might as well remove the starter, anyway, because you'll need to stick a bar in the ring gear to prevent the crank from turning when you torque the nut back on.
  6. Remove both the outer and inner pulley halves. Keep track of how many shims are placed between the two halves so that you don't have to figure it out again on installation. Remove the generator belt, too.
  7. Remove the front engine mounting bolt. You'll probably want to support the front of the engine a little bit with a jack…but even if you don't, the front of the engine won't sag very much at all.
  8. Remove all of the 6 mm bolts that secure the front of the timing case to the block. Again, if you have an impact wrench, use it.
  9. Remove the timing case cover. You may think it is necessary to remove the skid plates (oil sump guard plates) in order to remove the timing cover, but it is possible to gently tilt the cover away from the block and remove it.
  10. IMPORTANT: Before you remove any gears be sure that the following painted marks are present:
      • The oil pump gear does not need any markings.
      • The crankshaft gear should have a single painted mark on one tooth. This mark should engage between two painted teeth on the camshaft every two revolutions of the crankshaft. Verify that it does.
      • The camshaft gear should have two painted markings. One mark should be on the inside set of dowel pin holes. The hole through which the dowel pin is currently located should be marked with paint. The other mark should be two gear teeth that meet with the mark on the crankshaft gear every two revolutions of the crankshaft (one revolution of the camshaft).
      • IF THESE MARKS ARE NOT PRESENT, PUT THEM THERE!
  11. Remove the big nut on the end of the camshaft. The nut takes a 26 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a pry bar to prevent the camshaft from turning.
  12. Remove the nut on the end of the oil pump. The nut takes a 13 mm socket and is removed in the standard lefty-loosey direction. If you have an impact wrench, use it. If not, remove the starter and use a pry bar to prevent the camshaft from turning.
  13. Using a gear puller, remove all three gears. Mine came out very easily.
  14. Transfer the markings from the original gear set to the new gear set:
      • The oil pump gear is the easiest, as no markings are required.
      • The crankshaft timing gear is fairly simple. Just stack one on top of the other, align the key way, and carefully transfer the mark from one to the other. In my case, both crankshaft timing gears shared the same mark.
      • The camshaft timing gear requires special attention. The workshop manual describes how to do this using a special tool. Since I didn't have the special tool, I used a piece of stiff non-corrugated cardboard, the dowel pin from the end of the camshaft, and a socket that fit quite nicely into the center whole of the camshaft. Using your original camshaft timing gear, carefully cut out holes for the center hole and dowel pin hole. Then, with the cardboard in place over the gear, carefully cut out the marked gears. Now that you have an accurate template of your existing camshaft timing gear, try each dowel pin hole on the new camshaft timing gear until you get precisely the correct alignment. Then, mark the dowel pin hole and the two teeth with paint.
        
        Take your time doing this and get it right. If you don't, you will have to go back in and do it all over again.
        
        When creating my template, since my camshaft timing gear was in four pieces, I used a length of electrical tape to hold the pieces in their original position.
        
        Unlike the crankshaft timing gear marks, the original markings on my broken and my replacement camshaft timing gears were NOT the same…they were off by several teeth. So, don't simply trust that the markings are correct, make them so!
        
        Although tedious, this procedure is far easier than re-timing the valves.
  15. Installation is the reverse, but be sure to do the following:
      • Install a new timing cover seal (make sure to grease it before you install it).
      • Install a new O-ring between the crankshaft and the crankshaft timing gear.
      • When installing the timing gears, be certain that the number 2 cylinder (the one on the left) is at top dead center on the compression stroke (both valves closed). The keyway in the crankshaft will point toward the number 2 cylinder. The camshaft dowel should be at about 11 o'clock. Then, just be sure to line up the painted marks.
      • Torque the crankshaft and camshaft nuts to 108 foot pounds. Torque the oil pump nut to 22 foot pounds. Insert a pry bar in the flywheel (through the hole left by the removed starter) to prevent things from turning.
      • Install the pulley so that the left most mark is in line with the keyway on the crankshaft.

Valve cover removal and installation

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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If you do any work at all on these bikes, even if just to polish the valve covers, you will grow quickly tired of removing and reinstalling the eight Allen head bolts using the standard “L” shaped Allen wrench. I make my life easier with two tools: (1) I use a 5 millimeter “T” handle Allen wrench to do the initial loosening and final tightening of the bolts, (2) I made a customized Allen bit for my cordless drill. Essentially, I cut the short end off of an old 5 millimeter “L” shaped Allen wrench. I chuck the long end of the “L” in my cordless drill, set the torque to it's lowest setting, and run the bolts in and out very quickly. I am careful to start the bolts by hand…I do not want to cross-thread the head!

If the valve cover is stuck when you try to remove it, do not pry it off. If you do, you are likely to tweak it and may never seal right again. Instead, using a rubber hammer, tap it on it's side.

I grease both sides of my valve cover gaskets when I install them. I think it makes it easier to remove them later.

Valve timing

Updated: 2010 Jun 21

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First off, let me state that it is very possible to time the valves with the engine still in the frame (regardless of what the Guzzi or Chilton manuals state). Here is how I did it:

Windage plate

Updated: 2006 Jul 24

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This is my first-ever windage plate.

A little background: The purpose of a windage plate (in my rudimentary understanding) is to greatly reduce oil being whipped up into a mist by all of the rotating parts in the crankcase (crank and pistons, mostly). By doing so, the oil remains more separated and you'll have less oil coming out of the breather tube under hard driving conditions (like extended high speed interstate operation). This only works if the windage plate is positioned ABOVE the oil line…which on the V700, Ambassador, and Eldorado requires a sump extension (which I have). After adding the sump extension on my Ambassador, I noticed a decrease in the amount of oil being pumped out of the breather tube. The addition of the windage plate has further decreased my oil loss.

Important note: Any time a sump extension is added to a loop frame engine, the oil pick up must also be extended to reach the new, lower oil level.

The first photo shows the plate by itself on a yellow background…so you can easily see the holes. The remaining photos show the plate mounted on an old engine block I have. The purpose of the large hole extending from the oil pick-up is for the dipstick and for the oil return from the breather.

For the most part, I'm pleased with the outcome. I would, however, make the following changes with subsequent plates:

• I did not transfer the holes for the oil return from the timing chest…and later had to elongate the holes as you can see in the photos. Poor planning on my part and next time I'll mark carefully.
• The “two rows of three holes” you see together…those I would switch to be only one row of three holes and position those in the middle of the existing holes. I think the one hole is too close to the large cut out. I'm also not entirely sure I need those holes at all…but I copied my design from those posted by Pete Roper and Ed Milich…so I put them there trusting their experience and knowledge. After further contemplation, I believe the purpose of those holes is to permit oil to drain back down into the sump when the bike is parked on its side stand…oil tends to puddle forward and to the left. Given my current understanding, I would add three holes close the edge of the sump.
• I used 0.050 in thick aluminum sheet as the material. It was easy to work with, but had a tendency to bend if my jig-saw caught it wrong when I was cutting it. Ed Milich used 0.100 in thick aluminum sheet for his material and I bet he didn't have this trouble. I have not had trouble with the plate cracking (after 3,500 miles of use).
• I might consider making smaller, individual holes for the dipstick and the breather return line…so I can prevent more windage.

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