Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, 850 California Police Frame and swing arm
Parts, supplies & service
Table of contents
- Battery tray - putting it all back together
- Center stand stop tab
- Engine and transmission mounting bolts
- Engine mounting spacers
- Foot peg shift tube
- Frame differences
- Fuel tank frame spacer
- Paint protection when installing the engine
- Rear crash bar reinforcement for the gussets
- Rust inside frame tubes
- Side cover frame tab repair
- Side stand return spring alternative
- Side stands
- Spring installation on center stands and side stands
- Steering stop
- Swing arm bearing cross-references
- Swing arm pivot pin adjustment tool
- Swing arm seal cross-references
- VIN tag removal
- VIN tag rivet (MG# 45918570)
- Transmission mounting spacers
- Voltage regulator bracket
Battery tray - putting it all back together
Updated: 2006 Jan 12
If you've taken everything apart, or have inherited a motorcycle who's battery tray has been creatively modified, it can be difficult to know exactly how everything is supposed to go back together. This is especially true if a larger than stock battery has been fitted, or a non-stock battery hold-down bracket is used, or if non-stock battery hold-down bolts are used. This photo shows all three of these conditions.
Photo courtesy of Bruce Daniels.
I've put together a diagram of the battery tray that indicates how everything should fit. The drawing isn't to scale, but should provide a good overall indication of how things go together.
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Center stand stop tab
Updated: 2011 Feb 28
The stop tab that is welded to the left side of the frame is easily broken off. Unbeknownst to me, mine was already broken off when I took the frame to be powder coated. Only later did I discover my mistake (ah, the things one learns with experience).
I made a replacement tab using an existing stop tab as a pattern. I've included a drawing below for those of you who may need it.
| Download Name and Link | File Size | Number of Pages in File |
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| 17 KB | 1 page |
! ! ! ! ! Note on printing this PDF file ! ! ! ! !
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If you forgot to check/repair your center stand stop tab before you had your frame powder coated, you've got a couple of choices. You can always just weld it up and apply paint to the affected area. Alternatively, you could do what Joel Parks did. In Joel's own words:
This is my inelegant solution to the broken tang issue. As you can see, I used a longer bolt and put two nuts on it so I can adjust the length. Then I used a tank rubber from an old Triumph motorcycle as a stop and covered the top of the bolt with a small rubber cap, like the kind we use on the carburetor vacuum takeoff. It's held up for many miles and I didn't need to weld anything.
Photo courtesy of Joel Parks.
Photo courtesy of Joel Parks.
Engine and transmission mounting bolts
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Foot peg models
Two identical hex head bolts are used.
- 12 mm × 1.5 mm × 333 mm
Footboard models
Two threaded rods are used.
- 12 mm × 1.5 mm × 360 mm (20 mm long threads at each end)
- 12 mm × 1.5 mm × 343 mm (30 mm long threads at one end and 22 mm long threads at the other end)
Engine mounting spacers
Updated: 2010 Dec 22
These are the aluminum spacers that fit on either side of the engine and through which the 12 mm engine mounting bolt is fitted.
Both the left and right side spacers are 22 mm long, have an inside diameter of 12.2 mm, and an outside diameter of 24.9 mm.
If you need to craft replacements, McMaster-Carr item number 4634T23 will work well for rod stock you can cut to length and drill.
Foot peg shift tube
Updated: 2012 Mar 04
I extracted this information from Ralf Brinkmann off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Ralf's own words:
I attach a sketch I completed with dimensions some weeks ago for an Austrian V700 owner.
Download Name and Link File Size Number of Pages in File 249 KB 1 page To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader.
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Frame differences
Updated: 2012 May 14
Not all frames were made the same. Here are a few of the key differences.
Siren mount
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Rear fender mount
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Coil mount
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Side stand mount
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Rear crash bar mount
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Steering neck
Early V700 models had a shorter top frame tube and – correspondingly – less space between the front tank mounting hole and the steering neck. Subsequent models had a longer top frame tube and – thus – more space between the front tank mounting hole and the steering neck. Be sure to read Fuel tank fitment on various frames for real world implications of this difference.
To measure this, I started by lining up two frames side-by-side. Lacking a precision jig, I aligned everything the best that I could visually. It should be noted that the remainder of the frame components (aside from the steering neck) matched very well between both frames.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Then I measured the vertical and horizontal placement of the steering neck relative to the front tank mounting hole.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The steering stem on the later frame clearly protrudes further forward than the early frame.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I could not detect any real difference in rake (nor should there be any difference).
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Fuel tank frame spacer
Updated: 2012 May 14
At the rear mounting point for the fuel tank on the frame, there is a tubular spacer through which the rear tank mounting bolt is fit. The purpose of this spacer is to prevent the mounting points from being crushed when the bolt is tightened. Sometimes this spacer is stuck in place and won't budge without encouragemnet. Other times this spacer may be loose and fall out. The size of this spacer is as follows:
- Length: 49 mm
- OD: 14 mm
- ID: 9 mm
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Paint protection when installing the engine
Updated: 2012 May 14
Thanks to John Prusnek on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group for suggesting this idea.
When installing or removing the engine from the frame, it is all too easy to scratch the frame in the process. Taping the frame doesn't seem to help much and the foam plumbing pipe insulators are simply too thick to work on the bottom frame tubes. Instead, thin walled plastic tubing is a great solution. This type of tubing is commonly available to cover shower curtain rods.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Rear crash bar reinforcement for the gussets
Updated: 2012 May 14
I extracted this information from Ross Raymond on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group.
Police frames were modified slightly to reinforce the gusset to which the top of the rear crash bars mount. The reinforcement is nothing more than a rectangle piece of steel that was welded in place. From Ross:
It is a bit hard to measure but I got the following: 35 mm long × 22 mm(23 mm) high × 3 mm thick (a little thicker than 1⁄8 in).
My plates are about an 1⁄8 in above the straight of the web, and the rear point of the mounting hole is 17 mm from the rear edge of the plate.
These are obviously all done by hand, there is a variation between left and right, I measured the left.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Rust inside frame tubes
Updated: 2012 Jan 09
Thanks to George Dockray for posting this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In George's own words:
I had lots of water and rust in the frame cross-tube where the battery plate rear bolts thread into. For that, after the paint was stripped and the suspect areas were visually inspected, I tapped with a center punch all along the tube looking for thin spots. After satisfying myself that the rust had not eaten too much of the tube, I dried the inside of the tube with compressed air then heat, then poured in “rust-mort” rust converter to the top of the threads, then let drain and dry. Then filled with linseed oil and drained.
This method is basically what you do with suspect steel tube fuselage airplanes. With airplanes though, the tubes are much thinner wall. With a loop-lump, you have a lot of material to get rusted out before I'd imagine it to be a problem. Still, the center punch test will tell you the story.
If you're powder coating, you can use JB Weld to fill in the punch marks and any rust pitting. It's good up to ~600°F so will be unaffected by the heat during powder coating. Sands nice too.
Another thought from Mark Etheridge of Moto Guzzi Classics, also posted on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Mark's own words:
Drill a couple small holes on the bottom of frame rails and forgetaboutit.
Side cover frame tab repair
Updated: 2011 Oct 21
This frame tabs to which the side cover are secured (via knobs) are threaded to 6 mm × 1 mm. Sometimes these threads become damaged beyond repair and and the side cover can no longer be properly retained. A person could always weld nuts to the inside of each frame tab, but that may ruin your existing paint or powder coat. There are a couple of non-weld repairs that work very well. I extracted some of this information from Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Charlie's own words:
There are at least two ways you can go:
- Buy the knobs from Joe Kenny, which come with a stud that can be double nutted into the tab, then the knob screws onto it.
- Slip a “tapped hole clip-on nut” onto the tab and use originals, Joe's or Mark E.'s reproductions. You should be able to find the clip-on nut at a good hardware store. My local Ace carries them. McMaster-Carr part number 95210A150.
Side stand return spring alternative
Updated: 2008 Jul 06
Police side stand
Thanks to Charles Hamer for posting this information on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Charles' own words:
Harley Davidson part number 50112-99. This spring fits very well, it's also coated with thick plastic and cost USD $4.95. For best fit make sure the ends of the hooks point to the rear of the bike when stand is fully extended.
Harley Davidson part number 50112-99.Photo courtesy of Charles Hamer.
Harley Davidson part number 50112-99.Photo courtesy of Charles Hamer.
Side stands
Updated: 2012 Feb 02
The spare parts catalogs identify four different part numbers for the side stand.
- MG# 12432000
This is the standard “civilian” side stand used with models equipped with foot pegs. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 1st edition
- V7 / V700 2nd edition
- Ambassador 1st edition
- Ambassador 2nd edition
- Eldorado 1st edition
- MG# 12432040
This is the standard “civilian” side stand used with models equipped with foot pegs. I do not know how this part number is different from MG# 12432000. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 3rd edition
- MG# 12432060
This is the standard “civilian” side stand that has been modified with a longer deployment arm for fitment to models equipped with leg shields for “police” use. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- V7 / V700 2nd edition
- V7 / V700 3rd edition
- MG# 13432040
This is the standard “police” side stand that mounts to front crash bar for fitment to models equipped with footboards for “police” use. Identified within the following spare parts catalogs:
- 750 California Police
- 850 California Police
Spring installation on center stands and side stands
Updated: 2012 Apr 18
Installing the center stand return spring or side stand return spring can be quite a challenge. I've used a couple of methods with good success:
- A spring “hook” can be used to pull the spring into place, though this requires substantial pulling force.
- If I cannot pull the spring into place, I unbolt the side stand or center stand, attach the spring to both mounting points first, then rebolt the side stand or center stand in place using the stand as a lever.
I extracted this information from Patrick Hayes off of the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Patrick's own words:
Old fashioned trick method. Take the new spring and bend it substantially. The coils will spread apart. Pick one opening and jam a penny into the opening. Bend the spring in the opposite direction and insert another penny. After several sessions you will have extended the length of the spring. It pops right into position. Use some stout pliers to yank out the pennies.
Steering stop
Updated: 2011 Feb 27
For some reason, the steering stop on a project V700 I was working on was cut down to little more than a nub. This stop is located at the very front of the frame and serves to prevent the handlebars from turning too far right and left (hitting the tank, etc). The lower triple tree has tabs that contact the stop. I have no idea why someone thought they needed to modify the stop. But I needed to make a new one. I measured two frames: an original V700 frame and an original Eldorado frame. Both produced identical measurements.
The stop is made from solid round bar and is 12 mm in diameter and has a length of 60 mm. It is centered on the frame and welded in place.
Swing arm bearing cross-references
Updated: 2008 Mar 06
Thanks to Bob Greene provided key starting information for these cross-references.
The physical dimensions of the swing arm bearings (MG# 92249216) are as follows:
- Inside diameter: 17 mm
- Outside diameter: 40 mm
- Width: 12 mm
Here are a couple of cross-references:
- RIV 01/02/5010
- SKF 639215
The following physical dimensions are slightly thicker, but work just fine and are much easier to source than the original (thanks to Fred on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group for confirming the fitment).
- Inside diameter: 17 mm
- Outside diameter: 40 mm
- Width: 13.25 mm
Cross-references for the slightly thicker swing arm bearings:
- Maryland Metric item no. 30203
- FAG 30203A
- RIV 01/02/7203
- SKF (Eur.) 30203A
- SNR 30203
- STEYR 30203
Swing arm pivot pin adjustment tool
Updated: 2011 Oct 21
I found a great little tool at Harbor freight that is perfect for adjusting the swing arm pivot pins. It is called an adjustable pin wrench (item number 36554) and fits the holes in the pivot pins very well. If your pivot pins are frozen in place, this tool will prove entirely inadequate. But, once your pivots pins are free and you've applied anti-seize compound, it works great.
If your pins are stuck, there are a few techniques you can use to remove them:
- Soak with penetrating oil.
- Try turning the pins with a couple of punches, a vice grip, and a lever. I've found that 5⁄32 in diameter punches fit nicely in the holes.
- Purchase the pro-style tool from somebody like MG Cycle.
- Spot weld something (like the jam nut) onto the end of the pin and then use a wrench to turn it.
Swing arm seal cross-references
Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11
Two identical seals are used on both sides of the swing arm (ID: 30 mm, OD: 40 mm, Width: 7 mm).
VIN tag removal
Updated: 2012 Feb 22
VIN tag removal is most easily accomplished with Stephen Brenton's special tool.
VIN tag rivet (MG# 45918570)
Updated: 2012 Feb 22
The “rivet” (MG# 45918570) that secures the VIN tag to the frame is called a “drive nail” , “drive pin” , or “drive rivet” . McMaster-Carr item number ??? is a suitable replacement.
Transmission mounting spacers
Updated: 2010 Dec 22
I extracted the information about the five speed spacer dimensions from Ray Hale off of the old Topica Loopframe_Guzzi news group (which has now moved to Yahoo!).
These are the aluminum spacers that fit on either side of the transmission and through which the 12 mm engine mounting bolt is fitted.
On four speed transmissions, the left side spacer is 57 mm long and the right side spacer is 42 mm long. Both have an inside diameter of 12.2 mm and an outside diameter of 24.9 mm.
On five speed transmissions, both the left and right side spacers are 57 mm long, have an inside diameter of 12.2 mm, and an outside diameter of 24.9 mm.
If you need to craft replacements, McMaster-Carr item number 4634T23 will work well for rod stock you can cut to length and drill.
Voltage regulator bracket
Updated: 2011 Oct 21
The voltage regulator bracket fit right up against the rear fender. Without some means of preventing metal-to-metal contact, the voltage regulator bracket will damage the rear fender. From the factory, Moto Guzzi used a couple of pieces of rubber trim to prevent metal to metal contact. These trim pieces seem to get lost. Here are a few alternatives:
- McMaster-Carr part number 8510K12 is a little bigger than original, but actually works very well.
- Trim-Lok Plastic and Rubber - look under the rubber edge trim section (I've not ordered from them).
- Split a piece of soft, small diameter rubber hose length-wise.
