Moto Guzzi V700, V7 Special, Ambassador, 850 GT, 850 GT California, Eldorado, 850 California Police Miscellaneous

Bearing retaining compound recommendations

Updated: 2008 May 21

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Bearing retaining compounds made by companies such as Loctite or Permatex are wonderful products. Although their use is not always necessary, here is where I might use bearing retaining compounds:

Bearing sources

Updated: 2008 May 27

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Here are a few places for you to look. Some I've used and some I haven't.

• Emerson Bearing. Contributed by Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle in a personal email.
  201 Brighton Avenue
  Boston, MA. 02134
  (617) 782-1400
  (800) 225-4587
  (800) 252-1996 (Fax)
• McMaster-Carr
• Motion Industries
• Maryland Metric
• Obsolete Bearing. Contributed by Jean Drohé in a personal email.
  Unit 5, Holland Business Park
  Spa Lane, Lathom, Lancs, UK, L40 6JG
  + 44 (0) 1695 720481
  + 44 (0) 1695 50111 (Fax)
• South Shore Bearing Distributors, Inc. Contributed by Jay Duval in a personal email.
  111 Copeland Street
  Quincy, MA. 02169
  (617) 471-7800
  (617) 479-9192 (Fax)

Books

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Buyers check list

Updated: 2010 Jun 03

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This is a check list of things to evaluate when you are considering yet another loop frame basket case. Bob Greene provided this to me…originally created by Dave Otis.

Item	Is it there Y/N	Condition	Notes	Estimated cost	Actual cost
Frame
Seat
Swing arm
Swing arm mounts
Swing arm bearings
Rear axle
Shocks
Driveshaft coupling
Driveshaft
Rear drive
Universal joint
Carrier bearing
Rear wheel
Rear brake assembly
Brake rod
Brake cross shaft
Brake pedal
Shifter pedal
Shifter linkage
Foot pegs
Motor mount bolts
Motor mount spacers
Rear fender
Taillight bracket
Taillight
Rear turn signals
Rear turn signal bracket
Tool boxes
Tool box locks
Tool box keys
Regulator bracket
Regulator
Flasher
Starter
Starter solenoid
Battery tray
Battery hold down
Gas tank
Front fork tubes
Triple tree
Fork covers
Fork springs
Front fender
Fender braces
Front axle
Front wheel
Front brake assembly
Wheel cover
Headlight
Headlight rim
Fuse blocks
Instrument panel
Speedometer
Tachometer
Ignition switch
Wiring harness
Starter button
Starter button bracket
Clutch lever
Brake lever
Clutch cable
Brake cable
Handlebars
Handlebar mounts
Throttle control
Hand grips
Light switch
Turn signal switch
Front turn signals
Front turn signal mounts
Side covers
Side cover knobs
Generator cover
Generator
Generator mount bracket
Carburetors
Throttle cables
Choke lever
Choke cables
Coil
Coil bracket
Distributor
Distributor cap
Transmission
Oil breather
Clutch springs
Clutch intermediate disc
Clutch friction discs
Flywheel
Starter ring gear
Throw out bearing
Clutch shaft
Clutch lever on transmission
Engine case
Oil pan
Front cover
Crankshaft
Main bearing front
Main bearing rear
Rods
Pistons
Jugs
Rings
Heads
Valve covers
Oil pump
Oil line outside
Bolts to mount the oil line
Oil strainer
Oil lines inside
Breather tubes
Timing gears
Timing chain
Timing chain tensioner
Push rods
Lifters
Rocker arm assemblies
Intake manifolds
Exhaust pipes
Exhaust pipe nuts
Exhaust pipe to frame brackets
Mufflers
Muffler clamps
Rear foot pegs

Conversions (fractions to English to metric)

Updated: 2007 Feb 12

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Cruise control

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.

I've wanted some type of cruise control or throttle lock for some time, but I wasn't sure what to use that would work. I tried using the Throttle Rocker (see review on this page), but it turned out to be worthless. My Dad uses a twist-assist (the kind that stick into the end of the handlebar), but that wouldn't work with my bar-end mirrors. I finally decided to go with the Sound Off Safety (SOS) Vanda-Cruise and ordered one from a generic motorcycle parts house online.

SOS stopped making the Vanda-Cruise years ago. The replacement is called the Vista-Cruise and is made of plastic instead of chromed metal. You'll probably have a hard time finding a Vanda-Cruise (the parts house I purchase mine from sold me their last…and the package had plenty of shelf wear).

The Vanda-Cruise came in three models: B (3¹⁄₂ in arm), HKY (2³⁄₄ in arm), and ST (2¹⁄₂ in arm). The model I got was the ST and was supposed to be for Suzuki, Triumph, and pre-79 Moto Guzzi motorcycles.

Unfortunately, my 1972 Moto Guzzi Ambassador did not fall within the “pre-79 Moto Guzzi” category as defined by SOS. What I really needed was the model B with the 3¹⁄₂ in arm (neither the 2³⁄₄ in nor the 2¹⁄₂ in arms are long enough to clear the throttle and clutch lever). But, since it was unlikely that I would be able to find a B model, I decided to make my ST model work. Here is what I did:

• Replaced the ⁸⁄₃₂ in bolt that connects the 2¹⁄₂ in arm to the throttle collar with a longer bolt. I used a few nuts and washers to align and stiffen things properly.
• Replaced the three ⁸⁄₃₂ in set screws that connect the throttle collar to the throttle with longer set screws.

That's it! All it took was a quick trip to the hardware store and about 30 minutes of install time.

Crush washer sizes

Updated: 2008 Jun 15

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Thanks to Charles Hamer for sending me this information.

• Aluminum crush washer for bolt covering the hidden allen nut securing the cylinder head (MG# 95100709):
  20 mm × 28 mm × 2 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for drain plug on engine and fill plug on engine, transmission, and rear drive: (MG# 90714195):
  20 mm × 28 mm × 2 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for level and drain plugs on transmission and rear drive (MG# 90714101):
  10 mm × 20 mm × 1 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for banjo bolts oil lines to cylinder head (MG# 12154200):
  8 mm × 14 mm × 1 mm
• Aluminum crush washer for pipe oil pressure sending unit (MG# 12006400):
  12 mm × 20 mm × 1 mm
• Fiber washers for gas tank petcocks (MG# 90714123):
  12 mm × 20 mm × 1 mm

Cutting hardened tools

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.

When building my tool kit, some of the tools I purchased were too long to fit in the tool boxes (7 in is a good rule for overall length, although it is possible to angle longer pieces). Hardened tools can be very difficult and time consuming to cut with a hacksaw. In the past, I have even resorted to grinding them apart, but that tends to take a while and ends up rounding the corners of my grinding wheel.

I now use a metal cutting disc attached to my grinder. The disc is ¹⁄₈ in thick and 7¹⁄₄ in diameter with a ⁵⁄₈ in arbor hole. The maximum RPM is 8,600, so my 3,600 RPM grinder doesn't even come close. The disc does a great job and doesn't seem to wear too quickly. I cut two wrenches and two adjustable wrenches and only used a few millimeters - and it was quick and easy! Vermont American manufactures the disc I used (model number 28077).

Drill bit size for metric taps

Updated: 2011 Oct 27

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The formula for calculating the correct size of tap to use for a metric tap is very simple (no need for a huge table of values):

Major diameter - Thread pitch = Tap drill size

As an example, I needed to tap new threads in a fuel tank (for the petcocks). The size of the tap is 12 mm × 1 mm. The “12 mm” is the “major diameter” of the tap. The “1 mm” is the “thread pitch” of the tap. Plugging these values into the formula:

12 mm - 1 mm = 11 mm

And a 11 mm drill bit is needed. It is as easy as that. This works for “fine” and “coarse” thread pitches.

Fasteners (nuts and bolts)

Updated: 2011 Aug 22

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I originally found a spreadsheet with this information on the internet. Bob Greene informed me that Dave Otis originally created this file. I've updated some of the information and some data remains to be updated. To the best of my knowledge, metric fasteners (with a hardness rating of 8.8, except for the six flywheel bolts that use black oxide bolts with a hardness rating of 10.9) are used exclusively except for Lucas parts. Lucas parts (fender reflectors and turn signals) use standard size fasteners.

Gasket removal

Updated: 2011 Apr 26

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Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.

Up until the Winter of 2003, I removed gaskets using blunt blades, careful application of razor blades, and constant worry about gouging the soft aluminum mating surfaces. But, while perusing an aisle at the local auto parts store, I picked up a can of Permatex Gasket Remover 80646. This stuff worked very well and made my life much easier. Essentially, I just needed to apply the spray, let it set for a few minutes, and rub off the gasket material with a rag or paper towel. It is a good idea to have some ventilation when using this product.

Thanks to Steve Payne for sending me this information in a private email. In Steve's own words:

One solution I have had good luck with is using finger nail polish remover. It even comes with an applicator brush so you can get it into tighter places than the old aerosol cans. The only thing I don't like about it is the smell and how to explain to people why I have nail polish remover in my garage!

Looplifter

Updated: 2009 Jul 27

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Machine work

Updated: 2009 Jun 17

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I've used each of these machine shops and have been very satisfied with the work performed and prices charged. These are not “boutique” machine shops. If you want a machine shop where you can sip your latte in a spotless lounge and pay inflated prices, look elsewhere. These are solid, trustworthy machine shops that do real work for real people.

If you don't live near one of the shops I list below, you should probably find somebody local. There are good machinists everywhere and there is really no reason to ship your stuff across the country just because I mention that they've done good work for me. If you own an older machine, you are going to need a machinist. Best to find one local that you trust.

Miles Per Hour Calculation

Updated: 2008 Apr 29

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I extracted this information from Charley Cole of Zydeco Racing on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group. In Charley's own words:

(RPM × 60 × Circumference of Rear Tire) ÷ (5280 × 12 × Overall Drive Ratio) = MPH

The circumference of the rear tire should be entered in decimal form and in inches.

Example…24³⁄₄ in, enter 24.75 in

Circumference is 2 × 3.14 × radius of your tire. Measure with the tire/wheel absolutely vertical (check with level) from the contact patch (ground/floor) to the center of your axle.

The overall drive ratio is your primary ratio × your gear ratio × your final drive ratio. All of these values are in the factory manuals and also Guzziology.

You can use this formula to calculate your speed in any gear, at any RPM, with stock or non stock combinations of any gearbox, rear drive or wheel/tire size. It is useful to predict the effect of gearing changes such as a different rear drive ratio or to know your precise speed at any time. It is only accurate when your bike is vertical since your effective tire radius is reduced considerably at full lean due to the profile of your rear tire.

Moto Guzzi archive/history contact

Updated: 2006 Nov 02

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If you've got a question that can only be answered by the Moto Guzzi historian/archivist, contact Gabriella Stropeni. Provide her with as much information as possible and photographs (especially of the VIN plate) are all the better.

Polishing

Updated: 2012 Jan 09

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A highly polished bike looks great. But, I hate to polish. I've been polishing aluminum since I was a kid working on my Dad's semi truck wheels. Back then, all the work was by hand and it seemed to take forever. Today, I've discovered some techniques and methods that make the job a lot easier. Sure, it will cost you a little bit of money up front to invest in these items, but you'll always be glad you did. My philosophy is to purchase the best possible tools for the jobs I hate to do the most…it makes those jobs a lot more bearable.

Schnorr locking washers - where not to use (and where to use)

Updated: 2010 Dec 16

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It is no secret that I'm not a fan of the original “bendy tabs” that Moto Guzzi used to prevent many bolts from coming loose. It isn't that bendy tabs aren't effective, but rather they are inconvenient to work with. For that reason, I've been using Schnorr washers in their place.

Indeed, Moto Guzzi has moved to using Schnorr washers on some fasteners with many of the more modern machines they have produced.

Unfortunately, I extended the use of Schnorr washers to locations where they should not be used.

Specifically, I used Schnorr washers to secure a brand new rear main bearing flange to the crankcase in my Ambassador. That was 15,000 miles ago. Two weeks ago when I rode home from the Phoenix MGNOC monthly Sunday morning breakfast, I discovered a trail of oil running out my driveway, down the street, and out my subdivision. Ug. Fortunately, the engine did not run out of oil. When we returned home from church, I pulled the Ambassador apart to see what had happened. I discovered that six of the eight bolts that secure the rear main bearing flange to the crankcase were loose. The only two bolts that were still tight were the bottom two bolts to which I had applied ThreeBond 1194 semidrying liquid gasket to prevent oil leaks.

How did the other six bolts “magically” loosen? I know that used a block and a mallet to ensure the flange was fully seated against the block. I know that I used a torque wrench to properly torque each bolt to spec.

I bit of investigating quickly revealed the problem. The rear main bearing flange is made of aluminum. The Schnorr washers are - by design - quite thin. As I torqued the bolts to spec, the Schnorr washers became emmbeded within the aluminum of the rear main bearing flange. As they became embedded, the spring pressure of the washer was dramatically reduced. Eventually, with time and vibration, the bolts began backing out. The end result was oil being forced past the gasket into the bellhousing.

In short, I had applied the use of Schnorr washers in an inappropriate application.

If you take a look at the photo, you will clearly see a couple of things (all of the bolt holes were like this). First, the indentation from the Schnorr washers is clearly visible. Second, you can see a circular mark surrounding the Schnorr washer. This mark is from where the bolt came into contact with the flange and rotated. Clearly, the Schnorr washers embedded themselves deep enough into the aluminum that there was no longer sufficient pressure to prevent the bolts from loosening.

I did a bit more research into what Moto Guzzi is doing with the modern models they are producing:

1. Guzzi uses Schnorr washers (and nothing else) to secure the flange on the rear drive case (they may “glue” that gasket on now???).
2. Guzzi uses thick wave washers (MG# 03270300) to secure the rear main bearing flange to the crankcase.
3. Guzzi uses thick wave washers (MG# 03270300) to secure the front main bearing flange to the crankcase.

So, what did I do? I found some thick wave washers in my stash and secured my rear main bearing flange with them. I also applied a dab of ThreeBond 1194 semidrying liquid gasket to each of the bolts (hey, it can't hurt). I'll be using wave washers from now on in this application.

What about Schnorr washers? I'll continue to use them, but only when sandwiched between two steel pieces (as when securing the flywheel to the crankshaft or the ring gear to the flywheel).

By the way, I always use the original type fasteners when securing the connecting rod caps to the connecting rods. That is, if Moto Guzzi originally used the bendy tabs in that locations (as on V700 and Ambassador models), then I use bendy tabs in that location.

Alright, this is way too much information on a tiny subject. Unfortunately I've found it to be important. You can bet I'll be doing things a bit differently moving forward :>

Seal sources

Updated: 2008 Jul 17

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Here are a few places for you to look.

• AnySeals. I've always been pleased with the quality of the seals and the prices. I call them first.
• Hercules Sealing Products. A bit of a limited metric selection, but good quality and prices.

O-ring sources

Updated: 2008 Jul 17

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Here are a few places for you to look.

• McMaster-Carr. They always seem to have what I need.

Stainless fasteners

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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Stainless fasteners really look nice - especially when polished. You could source all of your own stainless fasteners and polish them yourself. But, a less masochistic approach would be to purchase a set already polished. Stainless Cycle does just that, and at what I consider a very reasonable price. They do a great job of organizing and labeling all the fasteners so you know just where everything goes - no giant bag of bolts here. Their product and service is top notch and I recommend them without reservation.

Thread locking compound recommendations

Updated: 2011 Feb 11

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Thread locking compounds made by companies such as Loctite or Permatex are wonderful products. For loops, only the generic red (high strength) and blue (medium strength) are needed. Moto Guzzis do not suffer from excessive vibration. The mechanical design and quality construction are such that parts simply do not vibrate loose and roll down the highway. This means that thread locking compounds are not needed for most fasteners. There are a few exceptions, however. Here is where I use thread locking compounds:

Titles - titling an untitled loop

Updated: 2012 Feb 03

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It can sometimes be difficult to obtain or transfer a title for our old machines. Many times, the presence of the “Manufacturing Date” on the VIN tag is different than the date the vehicle was originally titled. Ninety-nine percent of the time, there is absolutely nothing awry with either the vehicle or the title. But, just try explaining that your Ambassador was manufactured in October of 1971 and not titled by the dealer until 1972 to the narrow-minded buffoons down at the DMV who've never even heard of a Moto Guzzi. Suffice to say there are many legitimate reasons for using the following techniques to acquire a title for a loop frame.

Tool bags

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Please see the follow-up information at the bottom of this section.

I couldn't find ready-made, suitably sized tool bags, so I made my own to fit neatly inside each tool box. I made mine out of a pair of old blue jeans. Now that I have them, I can't believe how much more I can fit in the tool boxes. Plus, they are easy to fill and store inside each tool box. To keep them mostly waterproof, I enclose each in a gallon-sized zip lock bag. The pattern I used to create the tool bags is available below.

Tool kit (original)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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• 7 mm / 8 mm open-end wrench
• 10 mm / 11 mm open-end wrench
• 13 mm / 14 mm open-end wrench
• 17 mm / 19 mm open-end wrench
• 22 mm / 27 mm box-end wrench
• 5 mm allen / hex wrench
• Pliers
• Flat-tip screwdriver (special version used to turn the socket)
• Flat-tip screwdriver (standard)
• 19 mm / 21 mm / 22 mm socket (the screwdriver is used to turn this socket)
• Tappet adjusting tool (a small adjustable wrench would work, too)
• Feeler gauge in a small pouch
• Damper adjusting tool (for the rear shocks)
• Rider's handbook
• Tool bag (contained all of these tools)

Tool kit (substitutes for the original tools)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Original tools seem to get easily lost along the way and many machines no longer have them. Plus, original tool kits don't come up often on ebay and can be expensive. Here are things that can be used as substitutes:

• Metric stubby wrenches. Set includes 10 mm - 19 mm. Generally only the 10 mm, 11 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm, and 19 mm are needed.
• One 7 mm wrench.
• One 8 mm wrench.
• One 22 mm wrench which I cut to 7 in length.
• One 1¹⁄₁₆ in wrench which I cut to 7 in length - takes the place of a 27 mm wrench, which I could not locate.
• One 5 mm “L” shaped allen / hex wrench
• One 6 in slip joint pliers
• One 6 in slotted screwdriver
• One feeler gauge
• One ¹³⁄₁₆ in spark plug socket. Amazingly, the box end of the 22 mm wrench fits the hex pattern at the end of the socket, so a ratchet is not required.
• One 6 in adjustable wrench

Tool kit (what I carry)

Updated: 2010 Jun 16

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Here is what I always carry (covers both my Ambassador and my Quota):

• Original 7 mm / 8 mm open-end wrench
• Original 10 mm / 11 mm open-end wrench
• Original 13 mm / 14 mm open-end wrench
• Original 17 mm / 19 mm open-end wrench
• Original 22 mm / 24 mm box-end wrench (I've updated all of my axle nuts to require a 24 mm wrench)
• Original pliers
• Original tappet adjusting tool
• Original feeler gauge in a small pouch
• Ikon damper adjusting tool (for the rear shocks)
• Flat-tip / phillips reversible screwdriver
• One 6 in adjustable wrench
• One ¹³⁄₁₆ in spark plug socket
• 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5.5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm allen / hex wrench
• Two spare spark plugs
• One spare spark plug cap
• Spare ignition points and condenser
• One Swiss Army style pocket knife
• Two 8¹⁄₂ in long tire irons
• One valve core remover
• One valve core
• A few zip ties
• A couple spare relays
• One spare oil pressure switch
• One tube of rubber cement
• Several inner tube patches and plugs
• One tire plug insertion tool
• A Slime power sport inflator
• One 12 volt test light
• One 6 ft length of 14 gauge electrical wire
• Numerous fuses, electrical wire terminals, hose clamps, replacement mechanical cable barrel ends, and spare nuts and bolts.
• Several disposable paper towels
• Several disposable latex gloves

On longer trips I also carry:

• Spare inner tubes
• Extra cables for the clutch, throttle, and brake