Moto Guzzi V7 Sport, 750 S, 750 S3, 850 T, 850-T3, 850-T3 California, V1000 I-Convert, V1000 G5, 1000 SP, Le Mans, Le Mans II, Le Mans CX100

Alternator - A 55 amp Alternative

Updated: 2009 Sep 11

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Thanks to Timothy Brunner for sending me this information in a private communication. Tim learned about this set up from a gentleman named Tord in Sweden. In Tord's own words:

I attach a couple of pictures who describes in pictures a modification to a Bosch 55 amps alternator, the three lights really beam-flashes now.

The fix is a easy way to do, just dismantle the front cover and weld a ring ( i can give you the measurement) machine the cover in a mill or turn it in a lathe to 110mm I think it was. then bore a new thread holes, Then the shaft must modified the, I don't remember what it was. But I can give you the exact drawing on the job if you want. it was my father who did the job last summer. And it works perfect, And NO the plastic cover DOES NOT move forward, it depends on that he welded the ring a little bit backward so it was lots of materials to turn away and lot of materials to dip down the alternator in.

I attached more pictures to explained for you, maybe you understand (my English isn't so good)

As you see the Bosch original alternator shaft must turn away some materials, turn a cone that match as in a actual length. It must match the surrounded alternator. and the surrounded alternator dips in the cover, about some measure that I don't remember, but if you want to know, don't hesitate to contact me in an week or something, then I have heard with my father about the right way to do. Then maybe you can let someone do it in a factory. /Tord

Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Photo courtesy of Tord.

Photo courtesy of Tord.

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Battery gauge mounting bracket

Updated: 2010 Dec 25

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Thanks to Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle for sending me these instructions. In Charlie's own words:

[Here is] the pattern for [the] Kuryakyn battery gauge mounting bracket I made for the Convert. No dimensions are shown for that, it measures: 70 mm between the holes, 39 mm high overall, 85 mm wide overall, the squarish part where the gauge mounts is 45 mm wide.

Kuryakyn battery gauge mounted on a Moto Guzzi I-Convert.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

Kuryakyn battery gauge mounted on a Moto Guzzi I-Convert.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore, Antietam Classic Cycle.

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Brake line replacement

Updated: 2008 Sep 13

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Thanks to Karl Kologiski for sending me this information in a private email. In Karl's own words:

Here is a great place to get brake lines. My dad got a set for his guzzi and they were terrific with the swivel ends. They can also do custom lines and older bikes. You just send them your old lines as a pattern.

Spiegler Performance Parts

Brochure - V7 Sport

Updated: 2009 Dec 07

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Crush washers

Updated: 2008 Mar 03

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Fiber or aluminum crush washers are used to make seals in numerous locations. Here are the applications and inside diameter sizes used on nearly all round head Tonti frame models:

The I-Convert uses many additional crush washers. Here are the applications and inside diameter sizes for it:

Dash indicator light improvement

Updated: 2008 Jun 24

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I extracted this information from John Wells who posted it on the Yahoo! MGconvert news group. In John's own words:

Convert dash lights are abysmal in daylight. If you lost oil pressure, you'd never know it till the engine seized. You could ride for miles with a turn signal on (not that that's ever happened to me).

Visited superbrightleds.com and replaced all the 1.2 watt “wheat” bulbs with SMD LED High Power 6 lumen 74-xHP wedge base led's. MAN! What a difference!! Idiot lights now visible in bright sunlight. $2.49 per bulb, order same bulb color as lens in dash, NOT WHITE!! (important!)

These bulbs are polarized, so test each light before you reassemble the dash, if it's not working, reverse the bulb in the socket. They fit perfectly. I guess they'd work in SPIII, Cal III, and whatever others use the 1.2W night lites for indicators. For me, it was money well spent. Shipped quickly, also. (The 1157 Luxeon 3W tail light bulbs are great too, same deal, order same color as taillight lens)

More information on ordering and installation:

The lights are a direct replacement for the 1.2W wedge base bulbs. They are polarized, so check function before reassembling. Reverse the bulb in the socket if it's not lit. Be sure to get the high output ones (6 lumen)

Spade blades are attached to a removable plastic socket which holds the wedge-base bulb. Leave wires attached and pull the plastic socket out (No screwing needed!), then pull the bulb straight out of the socket. Then replace and check polarity and function before reassembling dash.

Dell'Orto PHF 32 carburetor jetting for the 850 T3

Updated: 2012 Feb 24

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Thanks to Doug Foskey for sending me this information in a private email. This information originated with Bob Dickman (California) and was shared with Pete Roper (Australia) who forwarded the information to Doug Foskey (Australia), who then sent the information to me (Arizona). It is — indeed — a small Guzzi world. I shared a hotel room with Bob Dickman at the 2010 Moto Guzzi Grappa Gruppo Gathering in Baker, Nevada and I met Pete Roper at the 2004 MGNOC national rally in South Dakata. Hopefully someday I'll meet Doug as well. Thanks to Bob, Pete, and Doug.

Bob's note to Pete explaining things (2007 Sep 21):

YOU want info from ME? Gee, gotta tell everyone I know. (Just kiddin'.) Below is documentation for what I did on my T3 with the 32 PHF's. This bike runs beautifully, very smoothly & willingly up to 6500 RPM or a bit more. Not as much peak HP as my big valve 1000S (I know you prefer the small valves anyway), buy way more seat of the pants willing over 4500 than with stock VHB's. I get about 40 MPG (US, not Imperial) no matter how I ride it, just cruising or flogging it. Since my 1000S, 40 mm pumpers & all, gets 45-50 MPG consistently, seems like I should get better than 40 with the T3. Somewhere along the line I was going to try AB264 needle jets in the T3, see if that got me better mileage without a significant HP hit. Haven't got around to it yet - probably because it is such a joy to ride as it is. One other mod besides what is mentioned below — sometime after I changed carbs, bored & sleeved out to (approx) 1000 cc. This was of course not the Gilardonis, rather forged Mahle pistons that Moe at Cycle Garden gets somewhere or other, come flat top, & Moe had some local machine shop custom cut the tops to more or less match the stock piston shape. As far as I can recall that did not create a big jetting issue. Just for my curiosity, how were these “female” inlet carbs mounted on your 850T? Mine has the stock metal intake manifolds welded up like with a metal donut, then cut down to accept the 32PHF's as I got them.

Just, just barely clears the starter solenoid/tranny case, with the big, angled oval K&N's tucked neatly away under the tank where the stock air box used to be. Very neat, glad I had someone else to do it for me.

Hope this saves you some time. I'd be interested to here where you wind up jetting the T.

Bob's carburetor specifications (2002 Mar 26):

My bike runs very well, except for a very slight, usually subtle just off idle hesitation when I bring the throttle down almost to idle, then bring it slowly back up. (SEE BELOW-SOLVED BY REPLACING K6, OTHERWISE FINE, WITH K1) It is most noticeable in top gear at freeway speeds, not noticeable at all when ridden hard. Compared to the square slide 30's the bike came with, I lose 10 MPG & a little low end, say below 3500 RPM. I think it is about even 3500-4200, then all plus from there on up, esp over 5000 RPM. Below is the jetting I have, & have tried. This bike retains stock cam, exhaust & heads, except for being lightly ported. It has been twin plugged — but that does little except put money in Charlie Rice's pocket — truly an evil result. I do have K&N air filters & Dyna ignition.

Idle jet

55 (have been as high as 62)

Main jet

150 (was 122 before I converted from 850 cc to 1000 cc)

Needle

K-1, middle slot. (Replaced K6 with K1 on 2004 Aug 28, at 135800 mi, solving remaining off idle hesitation problem.) This was really the big thing. Carbs came from bevel drive Ducati with K-16 - almost unrideable, no low end whatsoever. Also tried K3, K5, then K6 for a long time until 2004 Aug.

Needle jet

AB265

Choke jet

75

Spray needle

38 (tried 35)

Float Weight

10.5

Float position

18 mm

Float level

65 cc

Slide

60/3 (tried 70/2, 50/3, made 65/3)

Float needle

250 Idle screw-short, pre-EPA

Additional details from Bob when I asked him about publishing his data (2012 Feb 21):

1. In order for the bigger than stock 32 PHFs to (just barely) clear the starter solenoid on the left side you have to double up the gaskets between head & intake manifold. Not necessary on the right, though you can also double up if you think that preserves some sort of balance. I think it makes no noticeable difference.
2. I mentioned in what you already have that the change to 32's cost me about 10% gas mileage. Initially it went from mid 40's or so with stock VHB's to 39-40 MPG. Later on it went back up to mid 40's, sometimes even close to 50. So that makes the change all plus.
3. Finally, the 32 PHF's require a different cable than do the stock VHB's. On my T3 FB, with the high & wide police type bars that meant getting completely one off custom cables made. Can't really remember the details, handled by a long gone bike shop. I have since made a spare by having a local vintage bike shop copy them. On a regular foot peg T3 with the more standard type bars there might be something stock on some other model that might work. Maybe.
4. I am really happy with the jetting as finally worked out. In theory the 150 mains seem too big — on my big valve 1000S with 40 mm PHM carbs I went from 145 mains down to 128. So someday I might try smaller mains in the 32's. Or not — it really runs well now. To change jetting on the right side is easy — but on the left side you have to either pull the 2 starter motor bolts so you can drop the starter down — or pull the 3 intake manifold bolts to lift the carb up. Not really hard to do. Oh, yeah, not all that hard to strip those intake manifold bolts out — though fairly easy to helicoil repair.

Dyna III Electronic Ignition Installation Instructions

Updated: 2011 Apr 18

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Fork seals

Updated: 2009 Oct 19

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The dimensions of the forks seals on my I-Convert are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 34.74 mm
• Outside diameter: 47 mm
• Width: 9 mm

Fork spring and damper information

Updated: 2011 Jul 27

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I extracted this information from Robert Sharp (LeRoy) off of the Yahoo! MGconvert news group. In LeRoy's own words:

The two-piece G5 springs are a good value proposition, but you can't just slap them in with the original (silver colored) dampers from the T-3, Convert, etc. They have their own specific (gold colored) dampers. If you go with the G5 springs, you should get the dampers that are specific to them.

As an FYI, the G5 springs have a bit more load-carrying capacity and the two springs are wound at different rates. Compared to the single-rate springs the Convert came with, the G5 setup gives a bit more progressive suspension; softer initial response and firmer springing at the end of travel.

I don't believe that the G5 dampers offer any damping advantage over the those that come with the Convert. They are just a slightly different length.

More from LeRoy:

I have on the bench one each of the silver damper with single-piece spring and gold damper with two-piece springs. Here are the salient comparisons:

1. The gold and silver damper bodies are essentially the same length. The differences are not noteworthy.
2. The difference in length of the dampers noted by MG Cycle is entirely accounted for by a longer piston rod on the gold damper
3. As best I can tell from the slightly knackered gold and silver dampers I have, they appear to have the same or similar stroke. I'd also wager that their damping characteristics in jounce and rebound are similar, if not the same.
4. The free length of a (used) single-piece spring is 16 ⁷⁄₁₆ in (421 mm)
5. The free length of a (used) two-piece spring with the essential plastic piece in between them is 17 ¹⁄₁₆ in (433 mm)
6. The overall assembled length of a gold damper with springs is approximately 26 ¹⁄₂ in (675 mm) from the top of the damper to the circlip at the bottom of the spring seat
7. The overall assembled length of a silver damper with single-piece spring measures 26 ¹⁄₃₂ in (661 mm)

Given that both of these damper/spring combinations fit into the same fork tubes, with the same caps and other fittings, it seems that the gold damper/two-piece spring setup is compressed/pre-loaded a bit more on installation.

G5 photos - largely unmolested

Updated: 2009 Oct 21

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Thanks to LeRoy (Bob Sharp) sent me these photos when I asked about how the wiring harness was originally routed on my I-Convert. LeRoy acquired the photos from Performance Cycle in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma. Performance Cycle was offering these G5 units for sale on eBay in 2008…both with extremely low miles and largely unmolested (though with parts missing). These photos provide excellent documentation for how Moto Guzzi intended things to be from the factory. Enjoy!

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 1.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

G5 2.

Photo courtesy of LeRoy (Bob Sharp).

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Header pipe flange securing studs

Updated: Prior to 2007 Dec 11

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The original studs are 8 mm × 1.25 mm × 42 mm. I purchased some replacement 40 mm long 18-8 stainless steel studs from McMaster-Carr (item number 93805A359). They work great although next time I would purchase 50 mm studs and remove the excess as the 40 mm are just a bit short.

I-Convert acorn nuts

Updated: 2012 May 14

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Thanks to Darrell Dick for providing information about where to source these acorn nuts on the Yahoo! MGconvert news group.

The two hoses connected to the transmission on the right side are secured in place with acorn nuts. The original acorn nuts were constructed from two pieces and were prone to leakage if they bottomed out on the posts when being tightened. The solution is to use two or three extra crush washers to prevent bottoming out. If yours have already been turned into leakers, then you need new ones. As an alternative to purchasing the same original design as NOS, consider part number AN-124 from Colony Machine. These are chrome plated and while I would rather have stainless steel, I've been unable to source stainless steel acorn nuts in the required size (12 mm × 1.25 mm). I purchased these acorn nuts on eBay.

Chrome plated, single piece acorn nuts.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Chrome plated, single piece acorn nuts.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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I-Convert early prototype

Updated: 2009 Aug 10

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This one page article is from the February, 1973 edition of Motorcyclist. I've got an original copy. So, if you require a larger resolution scan, please let me know.

Early prototype of an I-Convert. Motorcyclist, February 1973

Early prototype of an I-Convert. Motorcyclist, February 1973

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I-Convert ATF pump seal size

Updated: 2008 Jun 05

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The physical dimensions of the seal (MG# 90401423) are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 14 mm
• Outside diameter: 22 mm
• Width: 4 mm

I-Convert ATF pump O-ring size

Updated: 2008 Mar 10

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The physical dimensions of the O-ring (MG# 90706409) that seals the ATF oil pump to the timing chest is as follows:

• 40 mm ID × 2.5 mm wide

I-Convert replacement oil lines

Updated: 2008 Feb 29

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I extracted much of this information from Paul Linn in personal communications.

The operating pressure of the hydraulic oil for the torque converter is 25-29 PSI. Because it is this low, standard oil lines can easily replace the stock lines. There is no need to source new fittings. Just cut the existing pressed-on hose clamps off, replace the hose, and clamp in place. As is mentioned in Guzziology, the line running from the reservoir tank to the inlet (left) side of the hydraulic pump is under suction. Be sure to use a thick-walled hose in this application to prevent it from collapsing.

I-Convert tank decal

Updated: 2011 Oct 05

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The first image came from Paul Gregory off of the Yahoo! MGconvert news group. Gordon Kline of MG Cycle sent me a link to the eBay auction with the second image.

Decal as affixed to the top of a Moto Guzzi I-Convert fuel tank.

Photo courtesy of Paul Gregory.

Decal as affixed to the top of a Moto Guzzi I-Convert fuel tank.

Photo courtesy of Paul Gregory.

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Decal as affixed to the top of a Moto Guzzi I-Convert fuel tank.

Photo courtesy of eBay auction.

Decal as affixed to the top of a Moto Guzzi I-Convert fuel tank.

Photo courtesy of eBay auction.

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I-Convert transmission: How it works

Updated: 2010 Apr 02

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I extracted this information from Patrick Hayes and Jim VanDenBerghe off of the Yahoo! MGconvert news group.

In Patrick's own words:

First, the Convert has a traditional, two-speed manual transmission. Two gears, low and high. There is no neutral position per se. The only way to obtain a neutral function is to pull in the clutch handle and hold it ( for maintenance purposes you wrap a bungee around it).

Second, this two speed manual transmission is driven by a traditional multi-plate motorcycle clutch. In this case, I think Guzzi stole the clutch bits from either Stornello or Nuovo Falcone.

Third, the clutch and transmission are driven by a a fluid torque converter mounted on the engine flywheel (hence the name CONVERT). At lower rps, the fluid slippage of the torque converter means that you don't have to pull in the clutch at idle. The bike will simply sit and idle until you give it the gas. Think of a humongous moped.

Fourth, because there is a fluid torque converter coupling between the engine and the clutch/transmission, there is very little engine braking effect. You have to use the brakes a lot more than on other motorbikes.

Fifth, the torque converter and the ATF fluid system only operate the drive function. Unlike your automatic transmission car, the fluid system on this motorbike has nothing to do with gears or transmission.

Sixth, the bike will go 0-70 MPH in low gear and 0-100 MPH in high gear. Obviously, acceleration is a bit sluggish in high gear but many people leave it in high and don't shift for a month.

Seventh, the transmission should not be shifted while the bike is in motion. Select low or high before you start out. If you need to change, stop and change. The purpose of the clutch is to soften the blows or impacts on the gear dog faces when shifting.

Eighth, the basic idea of a torque converter is like this. These are very simplified concepts. You take a chamber and fill it with fluid. Within the chamber are two propeller like devices attached to an input shaft and an output shaft. At low rotation speeds one propeller moves and the other does not. The fluid just swirls and slips around the moving propeller blades. As the RPMs are increased, the motion of the first propeller begins to add a lot of fluid drag and force to the second propeller, eventually moving that second propeller. At mid RPM ranges, there is still slippage and the input propeller is spinning somewhat faster than the output propeller. At very high RPMs, the slippage becomes almost negligible and the two propellers approach a matching speed synchronization.

Ninth, because of all this slippage in the torque converter, the Convert motorcycle traditionally gets poorer fuel economy than similar standard mechanical motorcycles.

Tenth, because the Convert is mostly driven in high gear, the engine seldom reaches any serious RPM level and more commonly is loping along at lower RPMs. An unfortunate side effect may be a poor battery recharge and a gradual decline in battery, requiring an overnight charger boost every week or two.

Patrick's reply to the question, “How come the fluid needs to be under pressure to work? Is it just that it would get too hot if you didn't re-circulate it and cool it?”

You've reached the limits of my knowledge on this one. Perhaps someone understands the SACHS torque converter more completely. As far as I can tell, the fluid doesn't do anything other than transfer drive force from the engine half to the transmission half. The slip and drag of the fluid generates a lot of frictional heat and it has to be circulated through a radiator. Also, any air contamination within the converter would lead to cavitation of the liquid and loss of drive force. Pressurized circulation helps ensure purging of air. I don't think pressurizing the fluid in the converter makes it work any more efficiently. Liquids don't compress much under pressure. I may be wrong and there may be some pressure advantages inside the converter. But, the pressure isn't moving anything (other than the fluid) unlike a car transmission where the pressure is utilized to move clutches, gears, valves, etc.

One other strange component of this torque converter is the central bearing. It has oval rollers rather than round balls. As speed and pressure are applied, these rollers stand up and wedge themselves between the converter and the transmission shaft. When the engine is off, they lay down and release the contact grip between the transmission and the engine. Thus allowing you to roll the bike around without having to combat drag of the drive system.

Some further clarification from Jim VanDenBerghe:

The ATF pump doesn't cause the bike to move. It doesn't “pump” the bike forward. The reason for the pump is to simply circulate the fluid that was warmed up (due to the slippage loss) through the ATF cooler where it is cooled down so it's temp doesn't exceed the maximum design temperature of the ATF fluid.

Those oval rollers are called “sprags” . They are used in a lot of auto applications too, and I bet in other power transmission systems. They allow torque to be transmitted in only one direction, i.e. clockwise or counterclockwise, but not in both directions. In the other opposite non-driving direction the two shafts slip without torque being transferred (free-wheels).

I-Convert transmission repair

Updated: 2012 Feb 29

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Here is the series of photos I took during the disassembly of the transmission on my I-Convert project bike. Assembly is pretty much the reverse. It should go without saying that all the parts were fastidiously cleaned and new O-rings and seals were fitted throughout. From a 10,000 foot view perspective, here is the order of events.

1. Separate the converter cover from the two speed gear box.
2. Remove the clutch input hub assembly from the converter cover.
3. Disassemble the clutch input hub assembly.
4. Remove the clutch assembly from the two speed gear box.
5. Disassemble the two speed gear box.

Converter cover disassembly

The transmission is really two separate units that are bolted together and interface with one another through dry clutch plates. The “converter cover” is the front unit, and it is bolted to the rear “gear box” unit. I began disassembly by removing the converter cover from the 2 speed gear box.

Start by removing the bronze bushing from the shaft so it won't fall out later.

Start by removing the bronze bushing from the shaft so it won't fall out later.

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It just slides out. During reassembly the only thing that matters is that the notches face the front.

It just slides out. During reassembly the only thing that matters is that the notches face the front.

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Remove the 6 bolts that secure that converter cover to the 2 speed gearbox. The converter cover will then separate from the 2 speed gearbox.

Remove the 6 bolts that secure that converter cover to the 2 speed gearbox. The converter cover will then separate from the 2 speed gearbox.

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This is the rear side of the converter cover. The splined piece is the clutch input hub that interfaces with the clutch plates.

This is the rear side of the converter cover. The splined piece is the clutch input hub that interfaces with the clutch plates.

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In order to remove the clutch input hub assembly from the convert cover, you need to remove 5 bolts. Rotate the clutch input hub until the bolts are visible through the access holes.

In order to remove the clutch input hub assembly from the convert cover, you need to remove 5 bolts. Rotate the clutch input hub until the bolts are visible through the access holes.

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Remove each of the 5 bolts and withdraw the assembly. The complete clutch input hub assembly should slide right out of the converter cover.

Remove each of the 5 bolts and withdraw the assembly. The complete clutch input hub assembly should slide right out of the converter cover.

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Here is the seal (MG# 90404563) and several of the passages that must be aligned with the corresponding passages in the clutch input hub assembly during reassembly.

Here is the seal (MG# 90404563) and several of the passages that must be aligned with the corresponding passages in the clutch input hub assembly during reassembly.

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Drive the seal out (MG# 90404563).

Drive the seal out (MG# 90404563).

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Here is how the seal (MG# 90404563) must be positioned during assembly.

Here is how the seal (MG# 90404563) must be positioned during assembly.

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A view of the rear side of the converter cover.

A view of the rear side of the converter cover.

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Note the use of multiple aluminum crush washers to prevent the acorn nuts from bottoming out before making a tight seal.

Note the use of multiple aluminum crush washers to prevent the acorn nuts from bottoming out before making a tight seal.

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A closer view of the fittings for the oil lines. Notice the bottom one is a smaller diameter than the top one. I removed both of these fittings. That about covers the removal and disassembly of the converter cover.

A closer view of the fittings for the oil lines. Notice the bottom one is a smaller diameter than the top one. I removed both of these fittings. That about covers the removal and disassembly of the converter cover.

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Clutch input hub disassembly

With the clutch input hub removed from the converter cover, we can disassemble it.

Now we turn our attention to disassembling the clutch input hub. Start by removing this O-ring (MG# 90706600).

Now we turn our attention to disassembling the clutch input hub. Start by removing this O-ring (MG# 90706600).

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Note the holes that must align with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly. You can see that I've already started to separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts.

Note the holes that must align with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly. You can see that I've already started to separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts.

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Here is another hole that must be aligned with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly.

Here is another hole that must be aligned with the passageways in the converter cover during assembly.

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Completely separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts. I was able to accomplish this using small screwdrivers and careful prying.

Completely separate the two halves that were held together by the 5 bolts. I was able to accomplish this using small screwdrivers and careful prying.

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Remove the O-ring (MG# 90706473) from the front half.

Remove the O-ring (MG# 90706473) from the front half.

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This hole in the front half is supposed to be plugged (the other hole on the opposite side should not be plugged).

This hole in the front half is supposed to be plugged (the other hole on the opposite side should not be plugged).

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Remove the O-ring (MG# 90706158) from the shaft.

Remove the O-ring (MG# 90706158) from the shaft.

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Remove the snap ring (MG# 90271020) from the shaft. This snap ring keeps the bearing in place.

Remove the snap ring (MG# 90271020) from the shaft. This snap ring keeps the bearing in place.

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Pull the bearing (MG# 92201220) from the shaft. If I remember correctly, I needed to use a press (or puller) to pull up on the bottom half (with the 5 bolt holes). This is necessary because the bearing sits inside of it and you can't get a grip on the bottom of the bearing. Just be careful not to bend the bottom half when you use your press (or puller).

Pull the bearing (MG# 92201220) from the shaft. If I remember correctly, I needed to use a press (or puller) to pull up on the bottom half (with the 5 bolt holes). This is necessary because the bearing sits inside of it and you can't get a grip on the bottom of the bearing. Just be careful not to bend the bottom half when you use your press (or puller).

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Remove the bearing (MG# 92201220).

Remove the bearing (MG# 92201220).

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Remove the seal (MG# 90402535), note the direction that it must be installed. I'm certain I removed the seal after I'd removed the plate. I just took the picture here to be clear about assembly order, etc.

Remove the seal (MG# 90402535), note the direction that it must be installed. I'm certain I removed the seal after I'd removed the plate. I just took the picture here to be clear about assembly order, etc.

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Remove the bottom plate.

Remove the bottom plate.

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Clutch basket disassembly

The clutch basket needs to be removed before we can disassemble the gear box.

With the converter cover removed and the clutch input hub disassembled, I turned my attention to the 2 speed gearbox. Here is the stack of clutch plates installed.

With the converter cover removed and the clutch input hub disassembled, I turned my attention to the 2 speed gearbox. Here is the stack of clutch plates installed.

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Here is the snap ring that must be removed. In order to do that, we must first take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.

Here is the snap ring that must be removed. In order to do that, we must first take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.

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I used the clutch throw out bearing adjustment nut at the rear of the transmission to take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.

I used the clutch throw out bearing adjustment nut at the rear of the transmission to take the pressure off of the clutch and intermediate plates.

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First, remove the smaller jam nut from the back of the transmission.

First, remove the smaller jam nut from the back of the transmission.

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I also removed the adjustment nut and the lever so I could clean and lubricate the threads. Also, I wanted to remove the rubber boot from the lever so it would be easier to tighten the adjustment nut.

I also removed the adjustment nut and the lever so I could clean and lubricate the threads. Also, I wanted to remove the rubber boot from the lever so it would be easier to tighten the adjustment nut.

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I put the lever back on with the adjustment nut. I then tightened the adjustment nut to compress the clutch springs and take the pressure off of the clutch plates. Go slow here. You may need to completely remove the adjustment nut, then clean and lubricate the threads so that you don't destroy the threads in the process.

I put the lever back on with the adjustment nut. I then tightened the adjustment nut to compress the clutch springs and take the pressure off of the clutch plates. Go slow here. You may need to completely remove the adjustment nut, then clean and lubricate the threads so that you don't destroy the threads in the process.

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With the large snap ring removed, you can withdraw all of the clutch and intermediate plates.

With the large snap ring removed, you can withdraw all of the clutch and intermediate plates.

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Here is the stack of clutch and intermediate plates. I kept them in the original order throughout cleaning and reassembly. It shouldn't matter, but when reusing used parts I like to error on the side of same-ness.

Here is the stack of clutch and intermediate plates. I kept them in the original order throughout cleaning and reassembly. It shouldn't matter, but when reusing used parts I like to error on the side of same-ness.

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Remove the adjustment nut.

Remove the adjustment nut.

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And withdraw the clutch throw out bearing pull rod from the front of the gearbox.

And withdraw the clutch throw out bearing pull rod from the front of the gearbox.

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Another view of the pull rod being removed.

Another view of the pull rod being removed.

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The throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) came out easily.

The throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) came out easily.

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Another view of the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) being removed.

Another view of the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217) being removed.

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This is the special insert that fits inside the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217).

This is the special insert that fits inside the throw out bearing (MG# 92204217).

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Remove the pressure plate. Note the 6 springs and the thin washers. The washers fit within the recesses of the pressure plate, not in the basket.

Remove the pressure plate. Note the 6 springs and the thin washers. The washers fit within the recesses of the pressure plate, not in the basket.

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Another view of the pressure plate with thin washers and springs.

Another view of the pressure plate with thin washers and springs.

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The lip of the nut will have been peened into the slot in the shaft. Pry the peened portion away from the shaft.

The lip of the nut will have been peened into the slot in the shaft. Pry the peened portion away from the shaft.

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And remove the nut.

And remove the nut.

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Remove the basket. Mine came off pretty easily without much fuss.

Remove the basket. Mine came off pretty easily without much fuss.

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A seal runs on this surface, be sure to clean and dress it properly.

A seal runs on this surface, be sure to clean and dress it properly.

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With the clutch basket removed, you can now see the front of the gearbox and the seal.

With the clutch basket removed, you can now see the front of the gearbox and the seal.

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Note the seal (MG# 90402838).

Note the seal (MG# 90402838).

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And the O-ring (not shown in the parts book). Before we remove the seal or o-ring, however, lets disassemble the gear box.

And the O-ring (not shown in the parts book). Before we remove the seal or o-ring, however, lets disassemble the gear box.

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Gear box disassembly

With the clutch basket removed from the gear box, we can now disassemble the gear box.

A view of the rear of the transmission.

A view of the rear of the transmission.

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Here is the shift arm and how it was originally positioned.

Here is the shift arm and how it was originally positioned.

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We'll start disassembling the gear box by removing the speedometer drive gear.

We'll start disassembling the gear box by removing the speedometer drive gear.

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Remove the gear drive.

Remove the gear drive.

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And use a small magnet to withdraw the hardened steel washer down inside that hole.

And use a small magnet to withdraw the hardened steel washer down inside that hole.

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Set the transmission up on end. Remove the spring loaded plug that holds gear selector pawl in place.

Set the transmission up on end. Remove the spring loaded plug that holds gear selector pawl in place.

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Remove the crush washer.

Remove the crush washer.

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Withdraw the spring and selector pawl.

Withdraw the spring and selector pawl.

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Remove the drain plug along with its crush washer.

Remove the drain plug along with its crush washer.

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Remove all of the bolts that secure the cover to the case.

Remove all of the bolts that secure the cover to the case.

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Here is the snap ring on the output shaft.

Here is the snap ring on the output shaft.

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Remove the snap ring (this could also be removed after the cover is removed).

Remove the snap ring (this could also be removed after the cover is removed).

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Remove the cover from the case.

Remove the cover from the case.

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The inside of the cover.

The inside of the cover.

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The gears inside the transmission.

The gears inside the transmission.

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A closer view.

A closer view.

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Remove the thrust/shimming washers.

Remove the thrust/shimming washers.

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There were two placed to the rear of the bearing.

There were two placed to the rear of the bearing.

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Then remove the thrust bearing.

Then remove the thrust bearing.

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There was a single thrust/shimming washer in front of the bearing.

There was a single thrust/shimming washer in front of the bearing.

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The shift fork assembly is secured to the splined shaft via a pinch bolt.

The shift fork assembly is secured to the splined shaft via a pinch bolt.

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Note the alignment of the external shift arm with the nub on the shift fork assembly.

Note the alignment of the external shift arm with the nub on the shift fork assembly.

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Remove the pinch bolt.

Remove the pinch bolt.

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Withdraw the external shift arm/splined shaft.

Withdraw the external shift arm/splined shaft.

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Note the O-ring (MG# 90706108).

Note the O-ring (MG# 90706108).

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Remove the input shaft.

Remove the input shaft.

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The input shaft and the O-ring that seals the input shaft and the inner race of the bearing. Note that the O-ring is fit outside of the gearbox, in between the clutch basket and the bearing.

The input shaft and the O-ring that seals the input shaft and the inner race of the bearing. Note that the O-ring is fit outside of the gearbox, in between the clutch basket and the bearing.

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The bearing retainer is secured by three bolts.

The bearing retainer is secured by three bolts.

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Remove the three bolts and the bearing retainer.

Remove the three bolts and the bearing retainer.

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This is the puller arrangement I devised to get the rear bearing and the spacer that the seal runs on off of the output shaft. I chose to pull them off as a unit because (a) the spacer that the seal runs on was stuck in place and (b) I did not want to risk damaging the sealing surface of the spacer that the seal runs on. The clamp was very useful to keep the fingers of the puller lodged under the bearing.

This is the puller arrangement I devised to get the rear bearing and the spacer that the seal runs on off of the output shaft. I chose to pull them off as a unit because (a) the spacer that the seal runs on was stuck in place and (b) I did not want to risk damaging the sealing surface of the spacer that the seal runs on. The clamp was very useful to keep the fingers of the puller lodged under the bearing.

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Another view of the puller arrangement.

Another view of the puller arrangement.

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And a close up view of the puller arrangement.

And a close up view of the puller arrangement.

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Here is the spacer that the seal runs on. I was able to clean this up nicely.

Here is the spacer that the seal runs on. I was able to clean this up nicely.

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The O-ring (MG# 90706222) remained on the shaft when I pulled the bearing off.

The O-ring (MG# 90706222) remained on the shaft when I pulled the bearing off.

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Here is where the O-ring (MG# 90706222) fits: within the front recess of the spacer that the seal runs on.

Here is where the O-ring (MG# 90706222) fits: within the front recess of the spacer that the seal runs on.

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Remove the shimming washer.

Remove the shimming washer.

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Remove the normal speed gear.

Remove the normal speed gear.

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Now the main shaft is easily removed from the front bearing.

Now the main shaft is easily removed from the front bearing.

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Remove the shift sleeve. Note which side face rearward and which side faced frontward. The shift sleeve can be reversed to double the life of the engagement dogs.

Remove the shift sleeve. Note which side face rearward and which side faced frontward. The shift sleeve can be reversed to double the life of the engagement dogs.

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Note how one side of the engagement dogs is rounded. This is what happens when convert transmissions are shifted at speed. They should always be shifted when the machine is not in motion.

Note how one side of the engagement dogs is rounded. This is what happens when convert transmissions are shifted at speed. They should always be shifted when the machine is not in motion.

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A view of the other side of the shift sleeve.

A view of the other side of the shift sleeve.

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The output shaft was pretty well stuck in the front bearing and there is no good way to “pry” it out. So, I welded up a small adapter for my slide hammer so that I could pull the shaft out. The end of the shaft is already threaded for 8 mm × 1.25 mm threads, so all I needed to do was weld a bolt onto the end of an adapter. This worked a treat!

The output shaft was pretty well stuck in the front bearing and there is no good way to “pry” it out. So, I welded up a small adapter for my slide hammer so that I could pull the shaft out. The end of the shaft is already threaded for 8 mm × 1.25 mm threads, so all I needed to do was weld a bolt onto the end of an adapter. This worked a treat!

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Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

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Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

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Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

Another view of the puller I used to withdraw the output shaft from the bearing.

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Charlie Mullendore sent me this photo of the adapter he made for his puller. In Charlie's own words: I didn't have any steel hex (or round) on hand so just used ³⁄₄ in aluminum hex and it worked just fine. One end is drilled and tapped ⁹⁄₁₆ in-12, the other 8 mm-1.25 mm. The ⁹⁄₁₆ in end I screwed onto the OTC blind bearing puller shaft on the handle end (the handle isn't pinned into place, the other end is) and I cut the head off an 8 mm bolt for the output shaft end. Worked perfectly.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

Charlie Mullendore sent me this photo of the adapter he made for his puller. In Charlie's own words: I didn't have any steel hex (or round) on hand so just used ³⁄₄ in aluminum hex and it worked just fine. One end is drilled and tapped ⁹⁄₁₆ in-12, the other 8 mm-1.25 mm. The ⁹⁄₁₆ in end I screwed onto the OTC blind bearing puller shaft on the handle end (the handle isn't pinned into place, the other end is) and I cut the head off an 8 mm bolt for the output shaft end. Worked perfectly.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

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Another photo of Charlie's adapter.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

Another photo of Charlie's adapter.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

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Another photo of Charlie's adapter.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

Another photo of Charlie's adapter.

Photo courtesy of Charlie Mullendore of Antietam Classic Cycle.

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The output shaft (layshaft).

The output shaft (layshaft).

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The low speed gear remained in the box.

The low speed gear remained in the box.

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Here is the low speed gear back in place on the output shaft (layshaft). Note the shimming washer is still on top of the bearing.

Here is the low speed gear back in place on the output shaft (layshaft). Note the shimming washer is still on top of the bearing.

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The shimming washer is now in place on the output shaft (layshaft).

The shimming washer is now in place on the output shaft (layshaft).

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Use a seal puller to remove the seal from the case. Be careful not to gouge the case or else you'll have trouble getting the next seal installed and you may have trouble with it sealing properly.

Use a seal puller to remove the seal from the case. Be careful not to gouge the case or else you'll have trouble getting the next seal installed and you may have trouble with it sealing properly.

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Here is the removed seal. The lip of the seal presses against the clutch basket.

Here is the removed seal. The lip of the seal presses against the clutch basket.

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Press out the front bearing for the input shaft.

Press out the front bearing for the input shaft.

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Here is the blind hole bearing puller I used to remove the bearings from the case.

Here is the blind hole bearing puller I used to remove the bearings from the case.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

Another view of the blind hole bearing puller.

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Removing the bolt from the case. I think the purpose of this bolt was to prevent the shift shaft from rotating too far. I can't recall for sure now, though.

Removing the bolt from the case. I think the purpose of this bolt was to prevent the shift shaft from rotating too far. I can't recall for sure now, though.

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Here is the bolt removed.

Here is the bolt removed.

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Use a seal puller to remove the output shaft (layshaft) seal from the rear cover.

Use a seal puller to remove the output shaft (layshaft) seal from the rear cover.

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Here is the removed seal.

Here is the removed seal.

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Use a small driver to drive out the seal from the rear cover. The bearing will come with it. Take care so as to not destroy the bearing (I do not use a blind hole bearing puller on these bearings unless I have to). Use the largest size drive you can fit.

Use a small driver to drive out the seal from the rear cover. The bearing will come with it. Take care so as to not destroy the bearing (I do not use a blind hole bearing puller on these bearings unless I have to). Use the largest size drive you can fit.

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Here is the seal and bearing removed.

Here is the seal and bearing removed.

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Here is the vent. I never did remove this from the case. Just cleaned it thoroughly in place along with the rest of the case.

Here is the vent. I never did remove this from the case. Just cleaned it thoroughly in place along with the rest of the case.

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I-Convert transmission seals

Updated: 2008 Nov 25

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I-Convert transmission O-ring sizes

Updated: 2012 Apr 30

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Thanks to Darrell Dick for providing information specific to undersized cross-sections for several of these O-rings on the Yahoo! MGconvert news group.

Ignition switch connections

Updated: 2009 Oct 19

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The electrical connections on my I-Convert ignition switch are as follows:

• Terminal 30 - Green
• Terminal 50 - Brown
• Terminal 16 - Red
• Terminal 15/54 - White

Keys for the ignition switch

Updated: 2009 Mar 16

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I extracted this information from Stephen Brenton off of the Yahoo! MGconvert news group.

Key blanks are available from Motorcycle Key Blanks. Note your key series and order accordingly.

• Moto Guzzi 2 - Pre 1995 Moto Guzzi models using key code series 501-1000 and 1501 to 2000.
• Moto Guzzi 3P - Pre 1995 Moto Guzzi models using key code series E001 to E710.
• Moto Guzzi 3M - Same as 3P but all-metal.

Main bearing seal sizes

Updated: 2008 Mar 10

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Mikuni round slide tuning baseline

Updated: 2006 Dec 22

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Thanks to Mike Tiberio for providing this information. In his own words…

Recently there was a Mikuni carb setup for a SP 1000 on ebay. I bid, but didn't win. I contacted the seller (Steve Braun), and asked if he would share the jetting information he learned in setting them up.

These carbs are available from pro-flo.com for $90 new, but without a baseline, you could easily spend that much buying tuning parts to get this close. He sent me the following info (with selected edits by me).

Here are the particulars for the Mikuni setup for the SP 1000.

• VM32 round slides
• 2.5 Cutaways
• 159P0 needle barrels (I think he means atomizers or needle jets here)
• 6DH3 needles clipped at the middle position
• 170 main jets
• 35 pilots
• 2.0 air jets

Some notes:

• The SP1000 was completely stock.
• Both intake manifolds are # 14115002 (Right Side). The left carb won't fit with stock left manifold, the carb hits the motor.
• The intake manifolds should be blended on the inside to match the carb opening.
• The air cleaners are K&N RU-1730.
• The installation fits very neatly if the battery is not oversized. I used a sealed Interstate unit: Y60-N24AL-B
• The carburetors came from Stan Smith at Rocky Point Cycle 937-376-9792

Molex connectors

Updated: 2010 Jan 28

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Molex brand connectors are used in a number of places throughout the wiring harness on the round finned Tonti framed models. While you are unlikely to find these connectors at your local auto parts store, they are inexpensive and easily found at better electronics stores (not Radio Shack). I found them at my local Fry's Electronics (search for .093).

• The size used is the 0.093 in series
• Extraction tool for 0.093 in diameter pins (economy)
  Waldom part number HT-2054 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651603
• Extraction tool for 0.093 in diameter pins (deluxe)
  Waldom part number HT-2038 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651599
• Hand crimp tool for 0.093 in diameter pins (certainly not professional grade, but it is inexpensive and gets the job done for the hobbyist)
  Waldom part number HT-1919 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651588
• 1 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1619PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651245
• 2 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1545PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651278
• 3 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1396PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651304
• 4 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1490PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651315
• 5 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1653PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651337
• 6 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1261PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651359
• 9 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1292PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651360
• 12 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1360PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651371
• 15 circuit connector with receptacle and plug
  Waldom part number 1375PRT (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651382
• 10 male and 10 female terminals, #20 through #14 wire range (no receptacle nor plug)
  Waldom part number 1189-90 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651533
• 10 male and 10 female terminals, #26 through #16 wire range (no receptacle nor plug)
  Waldom part number 1381-80 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651544
• 10 male and 10 female terminals, #30 through #22 wire range (no receptacle nor plug)
  Waldom part number 1433-34 (Waldom is one distributor of Molex products)
  Fry's part number: 1651555

Oil pump bearing cross-references

Updated: 2008 Mar 03

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The physical dimensions of the needle roller bearing (MG# 92252210) for the oil pump is as follows:

• Inside diameter: 10 mm
• Outside diameter: 22 mm
• Width: 20 mm

Here are various cross-references:

• FAG NKI 10/20
• IKO TAFI 102220
• INA NKI 10/20
• SKF NKI 10/20
• SKF (Old No.) NA 102220

Rear drive seal sizes

Updated: 2008 Mar 10

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Rear drive O-ring size

Updated: 2008 Mar 10

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The physical dimensions of the O-ring (MG# 90706584) for the rear drive are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 57 mm
• Width: 2.75 mm

Rear wheel cush drive O-ring size

Updated: 2008 Mar 05

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The physical dimensions of the O-ring (MG# 90706490) that seals the cush drive to the rear wheel is as follows:

• 51 mm ID × 2.5 mm wide

Rider's handbooks / owner's manuals

Updated: 2012 Feb 15

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Samsonite motorcycle luggage keys

Updated: 2012 Apr 19

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In the late 1970's and early 1980's, Samsonite manufactured luggage specific to motorcycle usage. They developed machine-specific rack mounts and then used a universal set of luggage that could be easily attached to the rack. In it's day, it was a very nice system. Even today, a well cared for set will still function very well.

As one would expect, each bag has a pair of typical luggage latches that may be locked with a key. I believe these were “universally” keyed the same for all bags.

Additionally, each bag could be securely locked to the luggage rack using a tubular lock and key. These locks are much more difficult to pick without a key and were keyed differently for each rack set.

Keys to fit Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Keys to fit Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Tubular key to lock the Samsonite motorcycle luggage to the rack. These are uniquely keyed to each luggage set.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Tubular key to lock the Samsonite motorcycle luggage to the rack. These are uniquely keyed to each luggage set.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Tubular key to lock the Samsonite motorcycle luggage to the rack. These are uniquely keyed to each luggage set.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Tubular key to lock the Samsonite motorcycle luggage to the rack. These are uniquely keyed to each luggage set.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Key to open latches on luggage. Seems to be “universal” with regard to all Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Key to open latches on luggage. Seems to be “universal” with regard to all Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Key to open latches on luggage. Seems to be “universal” with regard to all Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

Key to open latches on luggage. Seems to be “universal” with regard to all Samsonite motorcycle luggage.

Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.

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Spare parts catalogs / exploded parts diagrams

Updated: 2009 Dec 04

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Steering head bearing cross-references

Updated: 2008 Mar 06

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Thanks to Bob Greene for providing key starting information for these cross-references.

The physical dimensions of the tapered roller bearings (MG# 92249225) are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 25 mm
• Outside diameter: 52 mm
• Width: 16.25 mm

Here are various cross-references:

• Maryland Metric item no. 30205
• FAG 30205A
• RIV 01/02/7205
• SKF 30205J2
• SNR 30205
• STEYR 30205

Swing arm bearing cross-references

Updated: 2008 Mar 06

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Thanks to Bob Greene provided key starting information for these cross-references.

The physical dimensions of the swing arm bearings (MG# 92249216) are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 17 mm
• Outside diameter: 40 mm
• Width: 12 mm

Here are a couple of cross-references:

• RIV 01/02/5010
• SKF 639215

The following physical dimensions are slightly thicker, but work just fine and are much easier to source than the original (thanks to Fred on the Yahoo! Loopframe_Guzzi news group for confirming the fitment).

• Inside diameter: 17 mm
• Outside diameter: 40 mm
• Width: 13.25 mm

Cross-references for the slightly thicker swing arm bearings:

• Maryland Metric item no. 30203
• FAG 30203A
• RIV 01/02/7203
• SKF (Eur.) 30203A
• SNR 30203
• STEYR 30203

Swing arm bearing seal sizes

Updated: 2008 Mar 05

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The physical dimensions of the seals (MG# 90403040) for the swing arm pivots is as follows:

30 mm ID × 40 mm OD × 7 mm wide.

Tank badge removal

Updated: 2008 Nov 10

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I extracted this information from LeRoy who posted it on the Yahoo! MGconvert news group. In LeRoy's own words:

While I see that you've been successful in removing the badges, here's a tip for future work of this sort. Most auto trim shops and suppliers sell a variety of thin but stiff plastic pry tools that are commonly used for prying apart the many kinds of plastic clips used for automotive interior trim. This sort of tool is perfect for prying off the tank badges. Start gently at one end, but don't pry too hard or you'll tweak the soft metal badge. You'll quickly see where the pins are and can then work them out more easily.

As you've found, the tank badges on Converts (and other Guzzis of this era) have two pins on the rear side that are part of the casting. These have a slight knob on the end that engages with the retainer on the tank and provide the grip. There are two things to be mindful of when preparing to replace the badges:

1. The badges should have a curve in their profile to match the curvature of the tank. Be careful in tweaking them to help them confirm to this curve as it's possible (likely) to get the pins out of whack with the badge. In this case, the badge won't want to seat back into the retainers as their alignment will be skewed.
2. Be mindful of paint build-up in the retainer clips. A bit isn't bad as it will aid in the interference fit of the pins. Too much paint build-up will make installation of the badge difficult and you'll be tempted to give it just a bit harder whack to seat it. That's when an “oops” is likely to happen with your fresh paint. Instead, use an X-acto blade to clear out any excess paint and a gentle hand to thump the badge back in place.

Transmission bearing cross-references - 5 speeds

Updated: 2010 Mar 16

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All are open (not shielded or sealed).

Note: I have visually verified all of the bearing sizes.

Input/clutch shaft

• Front of transmission (MG# 92218424):
  • 25 mm ID × 52 mm OD × 20.6 mm wide - this is a double row ball bearing
    • FAG 3205
    • FED 5205
    • ND 5205
    • New Departure 5205
    • RIV 3205 or 2AANOn25
    • SKF 5205
    • SKF (Eur.) 3205
    • STEYR 3205
• Rear of transmission (MG# 92256218):
  • 17 mm ID × 35 mm OD × 15 mm wide - this is a needle bearing
    • Durkopp 10-2762
    • RIV NAS 17
    • Torrington 10-2762
    • Timken 10-2762

Main/cluster shaft

• Front of transmission (MG# 92256218):
  • 17 mm ID × 35 mm OD × 15 mm wide - this is a needle bearing
    • Durkopp 10-2762
    • RIV NAS 17
    • Torrington 10-2762
    • Timken 10-2762
• Rear of transmission (MG# 92201417):
  • 17 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 14 mm wide - this is a single row ball bearing
    • FAF 303K
    • FAG 6303
    • FED 1303
    • MRC 303-S
    • ND 3303
    • New Departure 3303
    • NH 303
    • RIV 4B or 6303
    • SKF 6303
    • STEYR 6303

Lay/output shaft

• Front of transmission (MG# 92234117):
  • 17 mm ID × 47 mm OD × 14 mm wide - this is a cylindrical roller bearing
    • FAG N 303
    • FAG NF 303
    • FAG NJ 303
    • FAG NU 303
    • FAG NUP 303
    • HOFF R 317
    • HOFF R 317 E
    • HOFF R 317 L
    • HOFF R 317 P
    • Hyatt A 1303 TS
    • IKO A 1303 TS
    • RIV FN 303
    • SKF N 303
    • SKF NF 303
    • SKF NJ 303
    • SKF NU 303
    • SKF NUP 303
    • STEYR N 303
    • STEYR NF 303
    • STEYR NJ 303
    • STEYR NU 303
    • STEYR NUP 303
• Rear of transmission (MG# 92218424):
  • 25 mm ID × 52 mm OD × 20.6 mm wide - this is a double row ball bearing
    • FAG 3205
    • FED 5205
    • ND 5205
    • New Departure 5205
    • RIV 3205 or 2AANOn25
    • SKF 5205
    • SKF (Eur.) 3205
    • STEYR 3205

Transmission bearing cross-references - I-Convert

Updated: 2008 Mar 10

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U-joint carrier bearing cross-references

Updated: 2008 Mar 03

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The physical dimensions of the sealed carrier bearing (MG# 92204230) are as follows:

• Inside diameter: 30 mm
• Outside diameter: 62 mm
• Width: 16 mm

Here are various cross-references:

• FAF 206PP
• FAG 6206.2RSR
• FED 1206RR
• MRC 206-SZZ
• ND Z99506
• NH 206KK
• RIV ALN 30
• SKF 6206-2RS1
• STEYR 6206.2RS

Wheel assembly

Updated: 2011 Feb 14

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Wheel bearing cross-references

Updated: 2011 Feb 14

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Wiring diagrams (very large and easy to read)

Updated: 2012 Feb 20

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To me, there are few things more frustrating than struggling to read a wallet-sized wiring diagram. These enlarged wiring diagrams print across multiple pages. Once you tape the pages together, you'll have a very large wiring diagram that is easy to read. I attach them to the back side of a door in my garage.

Carl Allison has created many wonderful, high quality wiring diagrams for Guzzis. His wiring diagrams are hosted here.

Workshop manuals / shop manuals / service manuals

Updated: 2012 Feb 15

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