Moto Guzzi Quota

Purpose, disclaimer, and other resources

• Print this section

Purpose

The purpose of this page and the information it contains is to provide useful or hard-to-find information about Moto Guzzi Quota motorcycles (with specific emphasis on the 2000 model that was imported into the United States). The bulk of the data is information I collected while working on my 2000 Quota.

Entering Wyoming from Utah on Highway 150 - Jun, 2004.

Disclaimer

I have done my best to present correct and accurate information. However, I do not consider myself an expert in the area of Moto Guzzi motorcycles nor Quota models in particular. If you find this information useful, I'm glad to be of service. If you see something that is incorrect, I'd appreciate it if you would send me a quick email detailing the mistake. If you use any of the information I have provided, you do so at your own risk. I take no responsibility for the accuracy of nor the consequence of using any content on this page.

Other resources

Of course, all of this information can be gleaned from alternative sources. For reading material, get the factory service manual and the factory spare parts catalog. For serious online discussions, try the Guzzi_Quota news group on Yahoo. For new parts, I recommend your local dealer. For used parts, call Mark Etheridge at Moto Guzzi Classics. ebay is also good place to look. If you want to be a member of an excellent motorcycle club, I recommend the Moto Guzzi National Owners Club.

Somewhere in the middle of Nevada along Highway 6 - Jun, 2004.

• Back to top

Air filter replacement

• Print this section

Thanks to Charlie Taliaferro for providing this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Charlie's own words:

Stock Moto Guzzi (UFI) Air Filter: MG# 30113600
Dimensions: 1.25" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many later-model Californias, Sport1100, Daytona, Centauro, Quota (some or all?)
Cost: about $10-11

K&N: CG-9002
Dimensions: 1.00" H; 8.75" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Same as above, plus some Cagiva (Gran Canyon, etc.)
Cross-reference: Moto Guzzi MG# 30113600; Cagiva 800064754
Cost: about $50.00

K&N: 33-2682
Dimensions: 1.06" H; 8.875" L; 5.25" W
Applications: Many FIAT's, 1980's - present
Cross-reference: FIAT 4434868; Mann C2345
Cost: about $35.00

I have ordered the CG-9002 because the dimensions appear to be closest to stock. The 33-2682 is just 1/8" too long, but I imagine it could be made to fit within the airbox.

• Back to top

Brake light switch replacement (front)

• Print this section

Thanks to Paul Bonneau, Bert Fox, and Alfred Jorgensen for this information.

If your front brake light switch needs replacing, here are a few sources:

• Your local Moto Guzzi dealer may have it in stock for 5 or 6 bucks.
• Radio Shack item number 275-016, SPDT Switch w/o Roller (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
• Radio Shack item number 275-017, SPDT Switch with 3/4" Roller Lever (This will require slight modification to remove the lever and reduce the width of the terminals)
• Happ Controls (USD $25.00 minimum order) :: Cherry Waterproof Snap Switch part number 95-0863-00 (This should bolt right on)
• Shultz Electronics (USD $5.00 minimum order) :: Waterproof Micro Switch part number DC1 (This should bolt right on)

• Back to top

Brake line protection

• Print this section

Thanks to Roland Schaeffer for providing the following photos and information regarding how he is protecting the front brake lines on his Quota. In Roland's own words:

On your site you wrote:

"Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid."

Here are some pictures of how I solved this problem. I guess that this may cause problems if you do not take off the lower fairing part like I did, for when the fork travels in, the pipes are bent backward, so that they need more clearance than what is given in the original fairing configuration.

• Back to top

Brake pad replacements

• Print this section

Here are replacement brake pad references.

Front brake pads

• EBC FA209/2

Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA209 for Quota front brakeSnapshot from the EBC catalog: FA209 for Quota front brake

Rear brake pads

• Brembo 107-5269-20
• EBC FA181 (Thanks to Matthew Ranney for confirming the fitment of these brake pads.)

Snapshot from the EBC catalog: FA181 for Quota rear brakeSnapshot from the EBC catalog: FA181 for Quota rear brake

• Back to top

Crankshaft o-ring cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the o-ring for the front of the crankshaft (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.

• Back to top

Cruise Control

• Print this section

I installed an electronic cruise control on my Quota. It works well, holds the chosen speed for an entire tank of gas, and makes interstate travel much more pleasurable. Here is what I did.

First, I did a little bit of Google research and found some existing information:

• Article A
• Article B
• Article C

I started by purchasing a Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control from Amazon (least expensive place I could find it).

Audiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise ControlAudiovox CCS100 Universal Vacuum Cruise Control

Next, I began the task of fitting it to my Quota.

Mounting the control unit

I made a small bracket out of aluminum. The bracket is secured to the handlebar using the existing mirror mount. I cut a hole in the back through which the wires run.

I find the placement convenient. The unit, however, is not waterproof. I need to do some weatherproofing as it will stop working in the rain.

Front view of control unitFront view of control unit

Left view of control unitLeft view of control unit

Right view of control unitRight view of control unit

Connecting the cable to the throttle body

Using one of the brackets that came with the kit, I secured the cable housing to one of the bellhousing bolts. Then, using the ball chain from the kit and one of the adapters, I connected the cable to the part on the throttle body that rotates with the existing throttle cable. I secured the end of the adapter to the throttle through an existing hole using a small (5 mm, I think) bolt. If memory serves, I did not have to alter the part on the throttle body at all.

Cable routingCable routing

Close up of how the cable is secured to the bellhousingClose up of how the cable is secured to the bellhousing

View of the cableView of the cable

I used a connection similar to the one circledI used a connection similar to the one circled

Connecting the vacuum hoses

The vacuum hoses are connected to each intake port. Then, they are joined together under the saddle with a "T" connection. From there, I have installed a one-way valve (simple, Positive Crankcase Ventilation or PCV device). The hose then runs to a fitting on my homemade vacuum tank. Finally, a hose connects my homemade vacuum tank to the vacuum operated cable actuator that came with the kit.

At the intake ports, I used a pair of hose adapters from my existing stash of parts.

For the "T" connection, I used one of the "T" connectors that came with the kit.

For the PCV valve, I picked up something cheap and small off the shelf from my local auto parts store.

For the vacuum tank, I simply purchased a short length of 2" plastic pipe and two end caps. After drilling and tapping the holes in the end cap for my brass, 1/8" NPT, barbed vacuum hose connections, I screwed in the brass vacuum hose connections (using teflon tape on the threads) and glued the end caps onto the pipe. I used the largest diameter pipe in the longest length that would fit in the same I had. The goal here is to have the largest vacuum tank possible.

Vacuum hose connection on left side intake manifoldVacuum hose connection on left side intake manifold

Vacuum hose connection on right side intake manifoldVacuum hose connection on right side intake manifold

Hose routingHose routing

Close up of 'T' connectionClose up of 'T' connection

Close up of PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) connectionClose up of PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) connection

Vacuum tankVacuum tank

Hose routingHose routing

Mounting the magnetic speed sensor

The manual that comes with the kit is not all that great and is a bit confusing on a number of issues. The only way I could get the cruise control to work was to hook up the magnetic speed sensor to the rear wheel. I simply could not make it work using a pick-up from the coil.

I made a small bracket out of steel and mounted it to the swing arm. I chose steel - instead of aluminum - because I did not want a stress related failure that might cause parts to become lodged in the rear wheel or brake.

I epoxed two magnets onto the brake rotor (180° apart). For magnets, I used cheap but strong, circular magnets from Wal Mart. For epoxy, I used Duco brand cement (also available at Wal Mart).

Magnetic speed sensor mountMagnetic speed sensor mount

Duco CementDuco Cement

• Back to top

Cylinder head temperature sensor

• Print this section

Here is the datasheet for the temperature sensor that is installed on the right cylinder head. I acquired this document from a posting by "Guzzi2Go" on the V11 Lemans forum.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Dipstick o-ring cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the o-ring for the dipstick (MG# 90706178) is 18 mm ID x 23 mm OD x 2.5 mm Thick.

• Back to top

ECU identification

• Print this section

There have been two ECU (Electronic Control Units) used on the Quota 1100 ES. The early version was replaced (or supposed to have been replaced) on all models. I believe the first version had a nasty flat spot between 3,000 and 4,000 RPM. How can you determine which version you have?

1. Remove the left side cover.
2. Look for a finned aluminum module about 4" square immediately to the left of the fuses and relays.
3. There should be a sticker on the box that says "Moto Guzzi Quota 1100".
4. The sticker will also list a number. If the number ends in "i", then you have the later ECU. If it does not, then you have the earlier ECU. As an example, the number on my ECU is "3d02gq0i".

• Back to top

ECU programming

• Print this section

Thanks to Guy who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Guy's own words:

I've been talking to Bruno Scola last September and he is able to re-programm the ECU. He puts a blank one in parallel and through this one he is able to alter the existing ECU. You can either ship him your ECU or order a new one. The existing packages listed are for the newer models (griso, breva, norge and 1200S. see also http://www.millepercento.com) but he is able to alter the older ones as well. Best practice would be that Tommaso Ravaglioli send him an email as Bruno only speaks Italian and see what he can do for us.

• Back to top

ECU protection and transil diode installation

• Print this section

I've been learning about how to protect the expensive ECU from voltage spikes. Apparently, the voltage regulator requires a battery with some 'minimal' level of charge for it to regulate the voltage properly. If a battery falls below this 'minimal' level, it is possible for a voltage spike to be sent through the electrical system and fry the ECU.

When can this happen? My understanding is this most likely to occur when you experience a dead battery and the bike is either push started or jump started. This has happened to Centauro owners and I believe other Guzzi models, too. I have not heard of a problem with the Quotas.

Even though I've heard of no problems with the Quotas, I decided to install the recommended protection - a "transil diode". It's inexpensive and easy to do. Anyone who is interested can learn about the procedure at this website: http://paaat.guzz.free.fr/diode_transil/english.html.

The required "transil diode" can be difficult to find. They are not available at Radio Shack and even my local electronics hobby shop had never heard of them. Here is a place from which you can mail order the correct part: Newark InOne (part number 28H8208 or 5KP15A/1).

As for installation, here is what I did (this information supplements the information provided at the website above):

1. Remove the left side panel, right side panel, and seat.
2. Disconnect the battery (negative first, then positive).
3. Remove the two Allen-head screws that secure the fuse box to the steel panel.
4. Remove fuse number 2 (it is the second fuse from the left).
5. At the back of the fuse box, identify the two green/white wires that connect to fuse number 2 [these are the wires that provide power to the ECU].
6. The green/white wires are connected to the fuse box with a female spade connector with a black plastic jacket. If you are careful, you will be able to unplug this connector from the fuse block. Carefully work it back and forth to remove it being watchful that you are not pulling the fuse contact out.
7. Now, it is a simple matter to create a new splice from the fuse box to the green/white wire AND the transil diode. The "ground" end of the transil diode can be easily attached to one of the panel mounting screws (since the panel itself is grounded). I chose the fuse block mounting bolt.
8. Put everything back together and you are done.

Following the existing instructions, I initially reduced the amperage rating of the fuse from 15 to 5. The bike would start and idle, but die if I gave it any gas. It seems to run fine now that I've increased the fuse to 10 amps.

• Back to top

Fairing replacement: installing a 1000 fairing on an 1100

• Print this section

My frustration reached a boiling point with regard to the light output from the headlight on the Quota 1100. Anyone who has navigated unfamiliar backroads in the middle of the night using only the Quota's headlight would use the word "anemic" as a compliment.

But what to do? I first thought about adding driving lights. But, I really didn't want the worry about the alternator being able to handle the extra electrical current draw of the headlight and two driving lights.

So, I decided that I would replace the headlight with one that would fit and have better output. I stumbled across a headlight from a 1992-96 Yamaha XJ600 Seca II on ebay for USD $14.99 delivered. Once it arrived, I made a few adapters and bolted it right on. It didn't quite fit the 1100 fairing, though, and I was reluctant to start chopping up a fairing whose replacement cost from Moto Guzzi would be close to USD $500.00. The light output was so much better, though, that I ran the Quota without the front fairing.

I'd known the the front fairing from a Quota 1000 would bolt right on to a Quota 1100...and provide me with many more options for headlights with its dual 5" round headlight holes. But since Moto Guzzi didn't import any Quota 1000 models to the United States, spares would be difficult to find and I assumed the price of a new Quota 1000 fairing would be close to the cost of a new Quota 1100 fairing.

Out of the blue, though, a European contributor on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota new group, Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia, stated that he had picked up an unpainted Quota 1000 fairing from Marc at Teo Lamers for 25 Euro. I couldn't believe it was that inexpensive!

Several news group contributors expressed interest in the fairing and I soon had a group order placed with Teo Lamers. A few weeks later the package arrived and I distributed the fairings nationwide.

The fairing truely is "bolt-on" ready and takes only a few minutes to swap out with the old fairing.

Unfortunately, though, Teo Lamers didn't have any Quota 1000 headlights, so we were on our own for that. On a whim, I purchased a headlight from a 1993 Yamaha FZR600 on ebay for USD $19.99 delivered. Surprisingly, it fits quite nicely with a few key modifications and some special brackets. With just one bulb (55/60 watt), I am very impressed with the output of the FZR headlight. It is much better than the stop-gap Seca II headlight I had been running and quantum leaps forward from the stock Quota headlight. For the time being, I am running two H4 bulbs in the headlight, but I only have one hooked up. The light output is more than sufficient, doesn't eat up a lot of electricity, and gives me a "spare" bulb in case of failures. Eventually, after I install a voltmeter, I will implement a switchable circuit that will allow me to operate both bulbs simultaneously - depending on engine speeds, etc.

Follow-up: I'm now running both headlights all the time and my battery/charging system are having no difficulty keeping up. I installed a voltmeter to keep track of the state of the battery - but my experience has been that I can safely ignore it most of the time. If I were to let the bike idle for long periods of time or really lug it, I suppose I could run down the battery. But I don't plan on doing either of those activities...and the light output is so much better! At normal engine speeds (3000 RPM on up) I am easily charging at over 14 volts.

Drawing of bracket

Note on printing this PDF file: When printing this PDF file, be absolutely sure that "Page scaling" is set to "None". If you don't do this, your print will not be of the proper size.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

Photos

Front view of headlightFront view of headlight

Rear view of headlight, note cut-outs to clear bottom mounting bracketRear view of headlight, note cut-outs to clear bottom mounting bracket

Wiring adapter, just plug in and goWiring adapter, just plug in and go

View of headlight mountedView of headlight mounted

Top left headlight mountTop left headlight mount

Top right headlight mountTop right headlight mount

Bottom left headlight mountBottom left headlight mount

Bottom left headlight mountBottom left headlight mount

Bottom right headlight mountBottom right headlight mount

Bottom right headlight mountBottom right headlight mount

Front view of fairing and headlightFront view of fairing and headlight

Close up view of how the headlight fits in the fairingClose up view of how the headlight fits in the fairing

Painted fairing and headlightPainted fairing and headlight

• Back to top

Fork spring replacement

• Print this section

Progressive Suspension replacement fork springs

I replaced my stock Quota fork springs with the often recommended Progressive Suspension 11-1141 springs. I also switched to 10W fork oil. Wow, what a difference! I never really thought I had a problem with the stock springs, but I like the Progressive Suspension springs much better (glad I ordered them on a whim!). The front-end dive upon braking is greatly reduced and the Quota corners much better.

Here is the (very easy) replacement procedure:

• Jack up the motorcycle so that the front wheel is off the ground.
• Remove the front wheel (this step isn't completely necessary, but it keeps the oil from getting all over the front wheel).
• Drain the existing fork oil. Be sure to put a large drain pan under forks as the fluid will come out in an arc due to the position of the drain plugs on the front of the forks.
• Remove the large cap nuts from the top of the triple tree.
• Remove the preload spacers and withdraw the springs. Notice that the Guzzi springs are installed with the close wound portion to the bottom.
• Slide the new springs in. Note that the Progressive Suspension springs are to be installed with the close wound portion to the top.
• Put the drain plugs back in and fill with fork oil. I went with the Guzzi recommended volume, but switched to 10 weight.
• Adjust preload to your liking. I found that the stock black plastic preload spacer (45 mm in length) plus the addition of one standard 1/2" washer (has a thickness of .1") worked very well for me.

I purchased these springs from Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse.

The following tips came from Paul Bonneau:

• Unlike what Greg says, I did not take the wheel off. Instead I put plastic on the wheel and cooked up some cardboard box thing to catch the oil spurts. And still got some on the brake rotor and tire. After changing the oil I finally figured out how I *should* have done the job. That is, just tape a plastic bag around the fork leg, like a sock on a foot. Bottom of the "sock" hangs down into the oil pan. Reach up inside to remove the screw, and then pump away. Should all go into the pan. Next time...
• I taped up the jaws on my big crescent wrench before applying it to those tube nuts. "With age comes wisdom", or in my case, lots of experience dinging up large nuts. I avoided it this time.
• I measured to the top of the stock spring (with the spacer out), then did the same with the new spring in. It was .71 inch shorter. Since I wanted to lower the front end anyway, I used only the stock spacer. By measuring the screw cap length I determined that that would give me exactly 0 preload (with fork at full extension everything would be touching but the spring would have no compression). I assumed that, given roughly equal spring rates from stock, I would lower the front end .7 inches, and that's exactly what it did. Another big plus for me. I realize this gets me .7 inches further into the available travel.
• Oh, by the way, when the forks were empty of oil and springs I moved the wheel up and down in its travel. If the travel is supposed to be 6.7 inches as bikez.com says, then it appears the fender will hit the pipes coming out of the brake union before that 6.7 inches is taken up. I'm thinking I will tilt these back some when I replace my brake fluid.
• Well, there actually is one drawback. What with the preload I have removed from front and rear, the kickstand is getting iffy and the centerstand is a bear to use. I will look at shortening these. Again, well worth it since I can now reasonably get my feet on the ground. I knew I would have to deal with them some day.

Sonic Springs replacement fork springs

Sonic Springs has two replacement springs, each with a different "straight-rate" compression. The "kg/mm" values simply indicate the weight (force) necessary to compress the springs a given distance. The folks at Sonic Springs are very helpful and started carrying "Quota specific" springs just because one Quota rider was interested. Be sure to give them a call if you don't know exactly what you want.

• 0.95 kg/mm, part number 60S-095
• 1.00 kg/mm, part number 60S-100

• Back to top

Front main seal cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the front main seal (MG# 90402840) is 28 mm ID x 38 mm OD x 7 mm Thick. A wave-style lip is best.

• Back to top

Fuel filter replacement

• Print this section

Here are numerous alternative fuel filters.

• Napa Gold: 3023
• Purolator: F43178
• ACDelco: GF600
• Fram: G4777
• Beck/Arnley: 0430840
• Wix: 33023

This fuel filter is used by the following vehicles.

Infiniti

• 1991 - 1996 G20
• 1990 - 2001 Q45
• 1996 - 2000 I30
• 2003 Q45
• 1990 - 1992 M30
• 1997 - 2003 QX4

Isuzu

• 1989 - 1994 Amigo
• 1991 - 1993 Rodeo
• 1988 - 1993 Pickup
• 1988 - 1991 Trooper

Mercury

• 1999 - 2002 Villager

Nissan

• 1995 - 1998 200SX
• 1991 - 1993 NX
• 1989 - 1998 240SX
• 1996 - 2004 Pathfinder
• 1984 - 1990 300ZX
• 1983 Pulsar NX
• 1985 - 1986 720 Pickup
• 1987 - 1990 Pulsar NX
• 1997 Altima
• 1999 - 2002 Quest
• 1990 Axxess
• 1987 - 1999 Sentra
• 1986 D21 Pickup
• 1984 - 1989 Stanza
• 1998 - 2005 Frontier
• 2000 - 2004 Xterra
• 1985 - 1999 Maxima

• Back to top

Fuel pump cross-reference

• Print this section

The fuel pump used on the Quota has the following characteristics:

• Fitting Size: 0.315
• Fitting Type: Shouldered
• Gallons Per Hour: 26-46
• Pressure Rating: 43.5

Here are some alternative pumps that will work:

• MG# 29107261
• Beck/Arnley 1520745
• Beck/Arnley 1528003
• Bosch 61-448
• Bosch 61-470
• Carter P72018
• Master Electric E7334

These fuel pumps were also used on the 1987 BMW 325 L6 2.7 Liter FI - M20 O.H.C.- SOHC (and other BMW vehicles of that vintage).

• Back to top

Fuel tank repair

• Print this section

Thanks to Chuck in Indiana for posting this fix on the Wild Guzzi forum when his tank started leaking around the mounting holes, etc.

I remember Pat Hayes saying this was good stuff a long time ago. I tried several fixes that didn't work. Mark at MG Classics told me he didn't know of any liner material that would stick to a plastic tank. In desperation, I called their (Caswell's) tech support, and he said if it wasn't polypropylene, it would work. The Quota tank already has a liner of some sort, so I *assumed* it wasn't polypropylene, and ordered a kit.

This stuff's the berries. I prepped the tank exactly like they said, and applied it according to the instructions. It sticks like crazy and remains flexible. Ever price a Quota tank? I'm a happy camper.

Phenol Novolac Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer

• Back to top

Hand guards - Triumph Tiger

• Print this section

Thanks to John Wells for providing the following photos and information regarding how he mounted Triumph Tiger hand guards on his Quota.

Front view, wide angle.Front view, wide angle.

Close-up of left guard sculpted for relief around mirror stalk, extra hole drilled inboard of lever pivot bolt to stabilize mount, bolt goes through unused factory hole. Close sculpting of mirror mount cutout helps with stability also. Slight trimming of rubber cable boots is necessary also. Becomes obvious as you progress.Close-up of left guard sculpted for relief around mirror stalk, extra hole drilled inboard of lever pivot bolt to stabilize mount, bolt goes through unused factory hole. Close sculpting of mirror mount cutout helps with stability also. Slight trimming of rubber cable boots is necessary also. Becomes obvious as you progress.

Note nylon spacer (hardware store sourced) and washer between fast idle lever and guard. Don't lose the small steel ball that acts as a check on the lever. Use nylock nuts on the longer pivot bolt as you need to be able to adjust tension on the fast idle lever.Note nylon spacer (hardware store sourced) and washer between fast idle lever and guard. Don't lose the small steel ball that acts as a check on the lever. Use nylock nuts on the longer pivot bolt as you need to be able to adjust tension on the fast idle lever.

Underside of left guard showing two nylock nuts on pivot bolt and stabilizer bolt.Underside of left guard showing two nylock nuts on pivot bolt and stabilizer bolt.

Right guard just needs minor sculpting of master cylinder cutout. Close fit means no wobble. Also create a cutout for the brake switch wires. Bolt longer than stock (from the parts bin).Right guard just needs minor sculpting of master cylinder cutout. Close fit means no wobble. Also create a cutout for the brake switch wires. Bolt longer than stock (from the parts bin).

Underside of right guard.Underside of right guard.

Wide angle from rear.Wide angle from rear.

• Back to top

Headlight replacement

• Print this section

Here is the original manufacturer of the headlight: tri.o.m. part number 798.00.10

It is the same headlight that is used on the MZ Skorpion

Alternatively, the European Moto Guzzi V11 Sport models came with an identically shaped headlight that puts out a reported much better light pattern.

• Back to top

Mistral crossover

• Print this section

Thanks to Gene Grefe for this information (in his own words):

I had great success dealing direct with the company Mistral in Italy to get the exhaust crossover for the Quota. I couldn't locate one from a couple of dealers so I researched and came up with factory. They were really great and it didn't take much over a week to get it. Then I had to have my bank electronic transfer money to them. The email address is to mistral and the fellow who I corresponded with is as follows: micheli.r>at<tin.it. The price was 180 euro for the pipe and 50 euro shipping. His name is Micheli Romano and as I stated they were great in informing and getting me the pipe. He also stated they are in process of coming up with a new muffler for Quota also.

• Back to top

Moto-Sport pannier leaks

• Print this section

First off, if your Moto-Sport panniers start leaking, contact Moto-Sport directly...they are very helpful and can give you advice specific to your panniers. Apparently, Moto-Sport has made improvements to the design since my panniers were purchased.

My 37 liter "Bavaria" panniers were purchased by the previous owner in April of 2002. When I purchased the bike, the panniers leaked water. Here are the suggestions that Ed at Moto-Sport gave me:

• Remove the star washers from underneath the bolts that screw into the pucks that hold the pannier onto the mounting brackets.
• Remove each screw (one at a time is easiest) that holds the handles onto the lid. Spread some clear silicon around the threads and head and reattached the screw.
• Remove the orange seal from the lip of each lid. Clean the groove thoroughly. Run a bead of clear silicon into the groove so that it is nearly level. Use your finger so that it is slightly indented. Let the silicon sit for and hour or two until the silicon starts to set up and feels dry to the touch. Now, place the lid on the pannier and lock it down. Leave it sit overnight or until the silicon is permanently set.

• Back to top

Oil pressure gauge

• Print this section

After adding an oil pressure gauge to my Ambassador, I decided to do the same with my Quota. Read about my set up on my Ambassador (same as for the Quota).

The aluminum plate to which I've attached the oil pressure gauge, volt meter, and 12 volt power outlet is covered with a carbon fiber sticker. The plate is secured using the forward-most pair of handlebar clamp bolts. I used longer bolts and spacers (painted steel pipe) to achieve the proper clearance needed while still maintaining good torque on the clamp bolts.

• Back to top

Owner's manual

• Print this section

Aprilia provides access to a free PDF version of the original owner's manual that can be downloaded online (http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/ or http://www.servicemotoguzzi.com/public/lum/index.asp). However, I find that manual difficult to use due to the fact that it is in four languages. Therefore, I created the owner's manual below that is in English only.

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Paint codes

• Print this section

Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for this information.

Quota 1000 paint codes

Quota 1100 paint codes

• Back to top

Quick maintenance data

• Print this section

• Back to top

Rear brake disc replacement

• Print this section

Thanks to Nick Devinck who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Nick's own words:

I just purchased a rear disc and its cost is 250 euros. It is made by BRAKING and knowing that now I am sure it should be possible to pay less purchasing directly from an accessory store to avoid Guzzi royalty. Maybe it will end up to be the same but worth trying anyway. The reference stamped on the disc is MGO 3RL.

• Back to top

Rear drive bearing cross-references

• Print this section

There are three different types of bearings that are used in the rear drive. Here are their raw sizes and cross reference numbers:

• A large ball bearing (ID: 70 mm, OD: 110 mm, Width: 13 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92201070
  • SKF 16014
  • FAG 16014
  • RIV ELn 70
  • STEYR 16014
• A needle bearing (ID: 40 mm, OD: 55 mm, Width: 17 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the V7 / V700 in 1968 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92254340
  • FAG NAO 40 x 55 x 17
  • FAG (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
  • INA NAO 40 x 55 x 17
  • SKF (Old No.) NAF 40 x 55 x 17
  • SKF (Eur.) NAO 40 x 55 x 17
• Two tapered roller bearings (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 19.25 mm)
  This is the same bearing that has been used in all REAR DISC BRAKE Moto Guzzi big twin rear drives from the T3 through to this day, with the possible exception of some of the newer sport rear drives.
  • Moto Guzzi MG# 92249227
  • FAG 32205A
  • SKF 32205A
  • SNR 32205
  • Timkin 32205-B

• Back to top

Rear main seal cross-reference

• Print this section

The size of the rear main seal (MG# 90405367) is 53 mm ID x 68 mm OD x 10 mm Width. Viton seals with serrated lips are recommended.

• Back to top

Seat latch - spring loaded

• Print this section

Option A

Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for sending me these photos in a private email.

Option B

I've wanted to be able to remove the seat without removing the side panels. I know that some have mounted a remote latching system, I chose a different approach.

I purchased the following:

• McMaster-Carr item number 85015A71 - Stainless Steel Metric Ball-Nose Plunger W/Locking Element, M8 Thrd, 9-13.5 lb End Force; Quantity: 2
• McMaster-Carr item number 3382A15 - Ball-Nose & Round-Nose Spring Plunger Wrench for 5/16"-18 and M8 Thread Size; Quantity: 1

Installation was simple:

1. Remove side covers.
2. Remove the two bolts that secure the seat to the frame.
3. Replace bolts with the ball nose plungers.
4. Adjust ball nose plungers to protrude the appropriate amount.

The end result for me a seat that seems to stay in place very well while still affording easy removal. I'm sure I could have done without the tool (3382A15), but it made life a lot easier and didn't require me to file a screwdriver to fit.

Also, I'm not sure that the plunging part of the ball nose plunger does much at all other than to provide a smooth, rounded surface for the seat securing brackets to flex around. I think the same effect could be accomplished by grinding down the end of a 8mm bolt so that it has a nice, rounded end. This can be quickly accomplished with a bench grinder and a hand drill. Chuck the bolt in the hand drill and run the hand drill while grinding...makes a nice rounded profile. And, since the threaded holes go all the way through the mounting tabs, a person could simply screw them through from the backside.

• Back to top

Spare parts catalogs

• Print this section

To view PDF files, you will need to download and install the free Adobe Acrobat Reader version 5.0 or higher.

NOTE: If you have trouble viewing PDF files inside your browser, try saving them to your computer (right-click the link, then choose the save option). Then, open each file directly in Adobe Acrobat Reader.

• Back to top

Speedometer angle converter

• Print this section

Replacement - Speedometer angle converter

Thanks to Dovie who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Dovie's own words:

Regarding the angle converter for the speedo...it can be had from Cosmopolitan Motors in Hatboro, PA or Domiracer. When I bought my Quota the miter box or angle thing or whatever was trashed, but I had a spare in store as the Benelli 4 and 6 cylinder bikes used the very same part (Mine was the Sei 900) so try those 2 outlets for this part. I bet you it will be in stock and cheaper than Moto Guzzi.

Repair - Speedometer angle converter

Thanks to Erling Pedersen who posted this information on the Yahoo! Guzzi_Quota news group. In Erling's own words:

(Here is a) photo of a small and effective repair of the angular drive. It is one of those things that cracks when you forget to grease the drive and the cable, or when the cable is stressed. Or maybe it is just a bad design. I have repaired it on the Le Mans II some twenty years ago, (Did I say twenty years? It seems like yesterday.) The brass thing can be changed with a hoseclamp, it works but does not look the same.

• Back to top

Steering head bearing

• Print this section

Thanks to Howard Rymes who sent me this information in a private email. In Howard's own words:

Last weekend I tackled the steering head bearings on the old Quota. So I have enclosed the steps I did and I help this may be useful to other Quota owner's.

1. Make sure you have enough food for a least 5 hours.
2. Make sure Pet cat has it's blanket so it can supervise the work. (Our cat watched for a few hours and even sniffed some of the parts to make sure I was doing a good job).
3. Have radio on to relax by.
4. Need trouble light to see under the fairing.
5. Place motorcycle on center stand.
6. Lift with floor jack on the front exhaust cross-over tube and place 6 of 2 x 4 x 12 inches long in two piles with also 2 of 1/2 plywood pieces. This raises the engine and front end as high as it will go. I like the wood block set up because it is very sturdy. A motorcycle jack would work.
7. Loosen front wheel axle nut 24 mm in size.
8. Loosen front wheel pinch bolt nut - 10 mm in size.
9. I have motolights so I had to loosen the allan screw which allows the motolights to tip down to get at the allan bolt holding the brake caliper on the fork. Motolight allen screw is 3/16 inch and brake caliper allan bolts use a 6 mm allan wrench.
10. Remove caliper from front rotor and let hang for now.
11. Remove axle bolt and spacer on the left side of the front wheel. Remove front wheel.
12. Remove the four bolts holding the front fender on. Bolt head is 10 mm Remove the fender.
13. Loosen the fork pinch bolts on the bottom triple clamp. Use a 5 mm allan wrench. I left one bolt just snug to hold the ram in place.
14. Loosen top triple clamp pinch bolts. Use 6 mm allan wrench.
15. Now loosen the one lower pinch bolt and slide the fork out of the triple clamp. Ihad to tap the top of the ram with my sand hammer to help it move out of the triple clamp.
16. Remove the two allan bolts holding the brake t-piece onto the lower triple clamp. Use a socket type 5 mm allan with a wobbly type 3/8 drive long extension. Go through the top to get these bolts.
17. Because I have the Hepco Becker engine guards, I then lifted both brake lines, calipers up and over the right side engine guard. This got the brake line, caliper out of the way.
18. Place blanket over the gas tank. Place a small piece of masking tape on the center section of the handle bar and mark the bar to the clamp.
19. Remove the four allan bolts holding the bar to the upper triple clamp.
20. Let handle bar rest on the blanket.
21. Use a 28 mm socket (or 1-1/8 Imperial socket) to loosen the upper triple clamp bolt.
22. Now wiggle the upper triple clamp off the fork tube.
23. Now you can see the round preload ring nut. It has 4 notches in it. My old Raleigh crank lock ring wrench worked to loosen the preload nut. I also tried my Ford 4x4 front hub socket OTC 7157 socket and it's tabs were close enough to loosen it. I wouldn't want to use the OTC tool to tighten the preload nut because it's four tabs are not exact line-up to the nut notches.
    Note: I found out that Motoguzzi has a socket for the Grisco steering head preload nut Part # AP8140190 but I don't know if it will fit the Quota. I think it will.
24. Now hang onto the lower triple clamp while you remove the preload nut. Remove the nut and the metal cup washer.
25. Slide the fork shaft and lower triple clamp out from the steering head frame unit.
26. Look at the bearings. See if they had notched the roller into the bearing race. Unfortunately mine had notched the roller into the race.
27. I used a long brass punch (about 1/4 inch size) and drove the lower and upper rings out
    The original bearing were 30205A FAG Made in Portugal. I replaced these with SKF BR30205 Tapper roller bearing from our local automotive parts store. Each bearing was List price 27.09 Canadian.
28. One gentleman on the internet did a bearing set off a California Special EV and so he used a Dremel tool to cut off the lower bearing. It worked very well. Takes a little time to cut through I then hit the inner ring with a chisel pop it apart. The inner ring then just slid off the fork shaft.
29. Remove the rubber seal. It can be reused if in good shape but I put a new one on. Motoguzzi number 14517000. I ordered the rubber seal from MG cycle and it arrived here in Calgary within three days.
30. Clean the steering shaft and check for any roughness where the lower bearing goes on. Light sand if needed.
31. Repack the two bearings with wheel bearing grease.
32. place new rubber dust seal on shaft and put grease in the seal.
33. Put bearing on the shaft and tap the bearing down the shaft with a piece of 1 inch electrical plastic tubing. I then used a small punch and tapped the bearing inner ring to make sure it was all the way down. You can feel the hammer bounce off the bearing when it hits the bottom.
34. Add more grease to the lower bearing. I put about 4 finger blobs of grease inside the steering head to help keep water out of the bearing and the same to the top of the steering frame tube.
35. Slide in the steering head shaft and lower triple clamp.
36. Place the upper tapered bearing in place.
37. Install the cup washer. I added more grease to the cup washer to help add protection of water going throw the cup washer into the bearing.
38. Thread on the round 4 notch preload nut.
39. Tighten the preload nut with hook tool just until; it stops with light tightening of the hook tool. Turn lower triple clamp to help seat in the bearings.
40. Now tighten the preload nut until it is tight. Do not rotate the lower triple clamp.
41. Loosen the preload nut just enough so the lower triple clamp can swing easy and smoothly.
42. This is where it gets tricky. Now have lunch.
43. Lightly sand the ram bore holes in the upper and lower triple clamp and apply a layer of grease on the aluminum bores.
44. Clean the shine part of the ram and lightly grease.
45. Install the upper triple clamp but not pressed all the way down onto the lock preload nut.
46. Install the two rams into the triple clamps. Lightly tighten one of the lower triple clamp bolt 5 mm allan just to hold the ram from falling down.
47. Install the front wheel axle bolt into the bottom of the fork. This will help align the forks so they are parallel to each other.
48. I placed antiseize on all the bolts.
49. Install brake t-piece. Use the 5 mm socket allan wrench to get these little bolts started. They are a little awkward. Tighten the allan bolts from the top with wobbly extension and ratchet.
50. Now push the upper triple clamp down to it's correct position. The ram filler plug bottom flat washer part should be just above the triple clamp.
51. Adjust the ram height if required.
52. Tighten the lower triple clamp pinch bolts with 5 mm allan wrench. Do not tight top pinch bolts yet.
53. Install the fender and the four bolts. The flat metal washer goes with the holes towards the floor.
    At this time some people will say adjust the preload on the head bearing with the wheel off and just feel the forks as they swing. I installed the front wheel and the brake and the handle bar to have all the weight on the front forks as they swing from center to right and center to left.
54. Install front wheel, axle shaft and spacer. Hold allan wrench on axle shaft while tighten the nut.
55. Install brake caliper and moto lights. I will leave the adjustment for the motolights when the motorcycle has all the weight on the front wheel.
56. I then pulled on the bottom of the forks to check for looseness in the steering head bearing. There should be any loosenness.
57. I then held the front wheel straight and lightly pushed the wheel to left or right and so how it fell.
58. I then lifted the upper triple clamp just enough to get the hook tool onto the preload nut and played with the preload. I had success doing it this way. I loosen the nut until I felt loosen in the front bearing when I pulled on the fork bottom. I then tightened the lock nut just enough to remove the looseness. I then turn the lock right about 1/4 inch more tightening and the front wheel was smooth as it fell left and right. Double checked looseness in the fork. All was good.
59. Pushed the upper triple clamp down and tightened the center bolt 28 mm socket.
60. Installed the handle bar to correct position.
61. Use the 5 mm allan wrench to equal tighten the handle bar clamps.
62. Tighten upper triple clamp pinch bolts.
63. Double check all bolts on fork triple clamps, axle bolts , axle pinch nuts (10 mm socket).
64. Lift motorcycle up and pull wood out.
65. Push on the front forks to make sure the triple clamps are holding.
66. Lift on engine with jack and small piece of wood to raise tire off the ground.
67. Check for looseness in the fork, pull on the bottom of the fork forward.
68. If not loosen is there, check to see how the front wheel falls left and right from center. If it is smooth left and right and no looseness, Pat yourself on the shoulder. Good Job.
69. Now if there is looseness in the bearing, remove the handle bar, remove the center nut and lift the upper triple clamp up just enough to get the hook tool and tighten up the preload bearing. Recheck fork looseness and tire left and right fall.
70. When all done, take for a little ride and you will notice a difference in the steering.
71. I would check the steering preload after 500 miles. Readjust if required.

Note: Some people will tell you to tighten the steering head bearings a little tighter so they have a slight drag. This is so when the bearing seats in, the bearing drag will be zero. Example rear differentials on motor vehicles have 5 foot/pounds of drag or preload on the tapered bearing when properly set up when new. Then as the bearing seats in, the preload goes to zero. The rear differential has a pinion shaft which is rotating in a circle. The motorcycle steering is maybe turning a total from full left to full right 80 to 90 degrees depending on the size of the front wheel and slope of the fork. So the front steering bearing is not rotating in a circle like the rear differential pinion bearings are. So the amount of preload on the steering head bearings is very small.

I will send you through the mail a photocopy of the Raleigh bicycle tool so you have an exact size of the c-wrench opening. Also if a person wants to use their old school compass set and draw a 2.5 cm radius circle, this is the size of the steering preload nut. The notches in the nut are about 3 to 4 millimeters in width and about the same in depth. Then you can shape your c- wrench so it has the correct inside curve. A stone grinder is needed because the hardened metal of the tool or if you have a Dremel tool it would be perfect. The width of the metal between the inside curve and the outside curve is 5 mm. This is important width so you can slide the tool between the ignition switch and the steering preload nut. A wider tool will hit the ignition switch barrel.

I like using the c-wrench because it gave me more feel of how tight the preload nut was and how far I could turn it to get the proper preload. A punch and light hammer will work but for a small investment, the c-wrench really makes it easy.

Hope this is helpful. Its not hard to do but a person should just take their time, relax , have lunch, take pictures, have friends over, and then when all done, enjoy the ride.

Tools Needed: Metric allan wrench set, Plastic sand hammer, 28 mm socket, c-wrench, Antiseize compound, floor jack, 2 x 4 wood and plywood 1/2 thick pieces, Steel hammer, brass long punch, Wheel bearing grease, paper towels, Brass hammer (to install bearing races), steel small punch(1/4 inch ), Dremel tool, small chisel, safety glasses, 24 mm combination wrench or socket (front wheel axle nut), Metric allan 3/8 drive set (5 mm), 3/8 drive 16 inch wobble extension, 3/8 drive ratchet

• Back to top

Steering head bearing cross reference

• Print this section

Two (2) tapered roller bearings are required (ID: 25 mm, OD: 52 mm, Width: 16.25 mm)

• Moto Guzzi MG# 92249225
• Maryland Metric item no. 30205
• FAG 30205A
• RIV 01/02/7205
• SKF 30205A
• SNR 30205
• STEYR 30205

• Back to top

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

• Print this section

Mike Haven of MPH Cycles has a couple of articles about tuning the EFI and the Quota.

• Article 1
• Article 2

I messed with my TPS one time...essentially just loosened the screw and moved it up and down to different millivolt values - very touchy. I found the original position worked best and left it alone. If memory serves, that was 395 millivolts or there about. It just didn't want to idle at any other position.

To measure the millivolt values, connect your volt meter to the middle pin and one outside pin of the connector. If you read 5 volts or something like that, switch your connections around to the other outside pin so that you read in millivolts. This process is made much easier by wiring in pig tails so that your readings can be easily made.

I set my TPS to around 395 millivolts with the ignition ON but the engine NOT running. It does make a difference. It is a very good idea to check your millivolt reading BEFORE adjusting the TPS. Write the value down so you can always get back to your starting point.

Cross-reference

The TPS used on the Quota is a Weber PF10 (PF 10). This is different from the TPS used on the other late model Guzzis, which is a Weber PF3C (PF 3C) . The common replacement is to use Harley Davidson part number 27271-95. The Harley part number corresponds to a Weber PF4C (PF 4C). Magneti Marelli distributes Weber products. I do not know if the PF3C or PF4C will replace the PF10. If anyone has actually used either part on a Quota, please let me know.

• Back to top

Timing chain and tensioner

• Print this section

At around 38,000 miles, I started hearing the timing chain rattling about inside the timing chest. It didn't rattle all the time, but seemed to be most prominent when decelerating from higher RPMs. I decided it was time to put in a new tensioner. Instead of using the stock tensioner from Guzzi, I opted for the common (and popular) bow-type tensioner. It is less expensive and places more pressure on the chain, too. Also, I decided that if I was going that far into the timing chest, that I might as well replace the timing chain. Replacement of the gasket, front main seal, and o-ring were givens.

Replacement is very straightforward and simple. But, do keep the following in mind.

• The rotor for the alternator simply slides off the front of the crankshaft. It is not pressed on. Very easy!
• In addition to standard mechanic tools, a very deep 32 mm socket is needed to remove the nut securing the crankshaft gear to the crankshaft. A normal deep-well socket is not long enough. Instead, purchase 2 deep well sockets, cut the end off of one and weld it on to the end of the other. It is probably best to purchase standard sockets (not impact sockets) as the wall thickness of the impact socket will have to be turned down to fit the available space inside the crankshaft gear.
• Before removing the three gears, be sure to align the mark on the camshaft gear with the mark on the crankshaft gear by rotating the crankshaft (easier if both spark plugs are removed). Once aligned, do NOT rotate either the crankshaft or the camshaft. If you do, you'll mess up the timing. When replacing the gears, make sure to keep the marks aligned. I found it easiest to keep the chain and gears together as I removed them. Then, I laid them flat on a rag and carefully replaced the chain...keeping my gears in line. This really isn't very difficult if a little care is taken.
• The bow-type tensioner is secured differently than the stock tensioner...utilizing the two existing bolts that already secure the front main bearing to the block. When the stock tensioner is removed, however, you'll need to replace one of the bolts with a shorter one. I just matched up the length with another bolt I had in my stash.
• Both the crankshaft securing nut and the camshaft securing nut require about 111 foot pounds of torque. So make sure you have a torque wrench sufficient to the task.
• The nut securing the rotor of the alternator to the crankshaft does not require very much torque. All it does is keep the rotor secured to the crankshaft. 25 - 30 foot pounds is plenty (I've not seen an official torque specification from Guzzi for that nut).
• Do apply anti-seize to the threads of the three bolts that secure the stator to the front of the timing chest AND the four bolts that secure the plastic alternator cover. These have a tendency to corrode and anti-seize is cheap insurance.
• In retrospect, my timing chain did not require replacement and I could have gotten away with simply replacing the tensioner. But, I didn't want the bike to be down very long and ordered all the parts beforehand.
• This was my first timing doing the job. It took me 3 hours, 15 minutes - start to finish.

• Back to top

Tire pressure conversion chart (BAR to PSI)

• Print this section

The owner's manual states that the front wheel should be inflated to 2.3 BAR and that the rear wheel should be inflated to 2.5 BAR with one rider and 2.9 BAR with two riders. When running at continuous maximum speed, the pressure in the front wheel should be increased by 0.2 BAR.

But what is a BAR? To start with, BAR is a word in and of itself (PSI is an acronym for pounds per square inch). In short, 1 BAR is equal to about 14.5 PSI (14.5037738 to be more precise). Here is a conversion chart:

• Back to top

Tires

• Print this section

• Avon:
  • Front: AM43 Distanzia 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: AM44 Distanzia 65 H [130/80-17]
• Bridgestone:
  • Front: TW41F BW TT 51 S [90/90-21]
  • Rear: TW22R BW TT 65 S [130/80-17]
  • Front: Battlax BT45 F BW TL 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Battlax BT45 R BW TL 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,426 miles out of the rear tire)
• Continental:
  • Front: TKC 80 [90/90-21]
  • Rear: TKC 80 [130/80-17]
  • Front: ContiEscape 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: ContiEscape 65 H [130/80-17] (I am currently running this rear tire)
• Dunlop:
  • Front: D607 Front 54 H [90/90-21] (I am still running the front tire; 16,000 miles and counting)
  • Rear: D607 Rear 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 4,500 miles out of the rear tire)
• Maxxis:
  • Front: Promaxx M6102 [3.00-21 51H/TL]
  • Rear: V1 M6002 [130/80-17 65V/TL]
• Metzeler:
  • Front: Tourance Front 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Tourance Steel-Radial 65 H [130/80-17] (I got 7,500 miles out of the rear tire)
• Michelin:
  • Front: Anakee H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Anakee H [130/80-17] (I got 6,418 miles out of the rear tire)
• Pirelli:
  • Front: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 54 H [90/90-21]
  • Rear: Scorpion MT 90 S/T 65 H [130/80-17]

• Back to top

Tool box

• Print this section

Thanks to Stanislav Bojan Zupet (Zupi) from Slovenia for sending me these photos in a private email.

• Back to top

Torque specifications

• Print this section

These specifications are derived from the Quota Workshop Manual. I generally prefer the torque values Moto Guzzi specified for the V7 Sport, T, and T3 models. Use at your own risk.

• Back to top

Turn signal replacements

• Print this section

I finally went down to my local Harley Davidson/Buell dealership and purchased the often recommended turn signals at a greatly reduced price (USD $5.20 for each complete turn signal). The signals are used on the 2005 Buell Lighting, and perhaps other models. They are identical in all respects save for the diameter of the stud that mounts to the bike (they are made by the same Italian manufacturer). The Buell's use a smaller diameter stud than the Quotas. I've not tried, but it looks like you can probably even swap the stalks (with studs) from the Quota turn signals to the Buell turn signals.

A drain hole located at the bottom of each turn signal necessitates two different part numbers:

• Left front and right rear - Y0503.02A8
• Right front and left rear - Y0504.02A8

• Back to top

U-joint carrier bearing cross-references

• Print this section

The physical dimensions of the sealed carrier bearing (MG# 92204230) are as follows:

• ID: 30 mm
• OD: 62 mm
• Width: 16 mm

The original carrier bearing in my Quota was a NSK 6206 DU. This cross-references with many other bearings, including:

• FAF 206PP
• FAG 6206.2RS
• FED 1206RR
• MRC 206-SZZ
• ND Z99506
• New Departure Z99506
• NH 206KK
• RIV ALN 30
• SKF 6206-2RS
• STEYR 6206.2RS

• Back to top

Vibration damping mounts

• Print this section

Moto Guzzi uses vibration damping mounts