Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: An oddity

Author: Robert Hawkes

Date: Apr 19, 2001, 8:43 AM

Post ID: 1706380711


Peter,
This is interesting. It just so happens that the starboard carb is leaning
toward the engine. It has to on account of the bowl touches the engine
case. The intake tube is not long enough or is not angled correctly to push
the carb back away from the head so that the bowl should not touch the
engine case. I did not say this either in my GREMLIN WANTED email (it seems
I have done so much to this bike that I can't remember it all!!) but I
installed an extra carb gasket between the carb tube and the head so now
there are two thicknesses of gasket there to try to back that carb up a bit.
It did not work very well. Also, the old round slide carb did not touch the
engine case. I will keep this theory in mind though as I have heard it
before and didn't think of it until you made mentioned of it. I will try the
aluminium foil trick. Best, Bob Hawkes
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Scheer <plsc-@tycoelectronics.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: An oddity


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Bob
The comment about too much fuel causing your problems makes sense.
for what its worth, I have a crazy story here that may or may not have
anything to do with your problem, but since you are at your wits end about
this, let me try this on you.
I had a 1969 Volvo, 4 cyl with 2 side draft carbs, I think Weber but I
cant
 be sure. Because the motor was designed for high test fuel and I couldn't
get it any more in the late 1970s I retarded the timing so it wouldn't
ping.
 Sometime after that, I cant recall if this was connected to the timing
change but I had major problems when I stopped the car when hot and tried
to
 re-start it. After lots of cranking and all kinds of black smoke , it
would
 catch and run.

I dont remember how I figured this out but, the fuel was picking up too
much heat from the near by exhaust manifold and the gas was boiling in the
bowl and spilling into the intake, flooding the engine. The fix was to
wrap aluminum foil around the bowls as a heat reflector. It worked. I
gave the car to my sister in law, and when she had it in for a tune up,
the
 mechanic threw the "custom" aluminum foil heat shield away and the car
wouldn't want to start when hot again.

I know this is a long shot but the email thread here about too much fuel
reminded me of this.
Good luck anyway, sounds like you are real close to getting it fixed.


 -----Original Message-----
From: mike skaggs [SMTP:msse-@classicguzzi.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 11:26 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: An oddity

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Sounds like the float is not shutting off fuel to me...have you tried
another carb on that side?

Mike
www.classicguzzi.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Hawkes <haw-@frontiernet.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: An oddity


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Brian,

Thanks for your response; I sort of get it. Let me tell you a few
more
 
 
 things about this Ambo of mine.

When I bought this bike, over a year ago, it did not run right. The
dealer
 installed a new battery and changed the generator which did nothing.
Electrics are all Marelli. All along I thought a piston kit was
needed
 
 as,
 upon inspection, there was evidence of chrome flaking off the
cylinders.
 
 
 So, I installed a new Nikasil piston kit, new gaskets, lapped the
valves
 
 and
 seats, measured the valve guides and valve stems within tolerances,
torqued
 the heads two times for break-in period, adjusted the valves two
times,
 
 
 replaced spark plug wires and coil wire and checked for proper ohm
resistance, replaced return springs on automatic spark advance using 8
and
9
 coil springs, replaced distributor cap, cleaned the cap, rotor and
points,
 new points and condenser and I have put more new spark plugs on the
starboard side cylinder than I can count. Also cleaned battery
terminals
 and leads to regulator. (Even new header pipe gaskets.)

When I start the bike with a new plug she will run OK for about 10 mi.
Then
 when I slow down or stop at a red light the starboard cylinder begin
to
 
 fail
 and then will quit. I give it the gas a bit and she starts to fire
again
 and then fails. I pull the plug and always find evidence of fouling;
the
 plug is wet, dripping wet with gasoline. Sometimes gas will drip out
the
 starboard header where it joins the muffler. When both cylinders are
firing
 the bike has plenty of power and (like the rest of you guys) the bike
is
 
 a
 joy to ride but it is always short lived. Please keep in mind that
despite
 all the changes mentioned above it is always the starboard cylinder
that
 
 
 quits.

I am very grateful for all the help from you guys on this list esp.
Ian,
 
 
 Andy, Peter, Rich and Mark and now from you Brian but I am now
becoming
 
 
 desperate, therefore:

IF ANYONE ON THIS LIST PROVIDES ME WITH INFORMATION LEADING TO THE
ARREST
 AND CONVICTION OF THE GREMLIN THAT IS CAUSING THIS PROBLEM AND RESULTS
IN
MY
 AMBASSADOR RUNNING CONTINUOUSLY ON TWO CYLINDERS I WILL SEND THEM A
CASE
 
 OF
 THEIR FAVOURITE BEER - OFFER GOOD ONLY IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED
STATES
 
 -
 ONE WINNER ONLY.

Thanks, Bob Hawkes

----- Original Message -----
From: <murp-@aol.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: RE: An oddity


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Robert,
I also think that the current is finding a path through the
distributor cap from the center connector (the coil output) to the
spark
 
 plug wires. I would bet that both plugs are sparking at the same
time,
 
 
 
 but only the one at TDC fires. The motor runs, but probably not that
well. I don't think it is really necessary to find the short through
the
 
 cap (which could be just a little moisture or dirt). It is not
necessary
 
 because when the rotor is in the distributor, a path through the cap
will not be used because there is a low resistance path through the
rotor. Also, only one cylinder will fire at a time because there
will
 
 
 
 only be one low resistance path at a time.
Brian,
'74 Eldo
'78 T3


Robert Hawkes wrote:
 Frank,
That's my Ambassador that Ian is talking about. It ran without
the
 
 
 
 
 distributor cap being on the distributor. Now, how does one check
for
a
 
 
 short? Thanks, Bob Hawkes, 1969 MG Ambassador

----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Flood
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: An oddity


==========================================================="So
many
 
 
 
 
 interesting emails. So little time to read them.
Thanks to myTopica, I can find what I want, when I want it."
So can you.
http://click.topica.com/caaabBCb1dfltb1FlG8b/register
=========================================================== Ian :
Back
 
 
 when I used to work on 2 cylinder John Deere tractors, we use a
jumper
 
 
 wire to make

them run without the distributor cap being in place.

Almost sounds to me like a shot circut to me.

Frank " I read the postings daily" I have learned a
lot.
 
 
 Thanks

Recent owner of 1972 Ambo----- Restoration in Progress


>From: Ian Adkins
>Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
>To: Loopframe
>Subject: An oddity
>Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:47:23 -0400
>
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>
>Hi All,
>
>I've been helping a friend with his Ambo project and he came
across
 an
 
 >interesting situation that I thought I might seek some input
from
 
 the
 
 
 >list.
>
>While working on his bike he pulled the distributor cap from
its
 
 
 mount
 
 >and
>rested it aside. It was still attached to the spark plug leads
and
 the
 
 >leads
>were connected to the plugs. As he turned over the bike it
started
 
 
 >running.
>
>What might cause this to occur? Interesting to note is that he
has
 been
 
 >having trouble with the engine where one cylinder will not
fire.
 
 We
 were
 
 >
>thinking that it may be carburetor related but now that I heard
of
 this
 
 >anomaly I think that his problems might be ignition related.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Regards....Ian
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>

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