Subject: Re: Broken generator bolts
Author: Martin Cooke
Date: Jun 6, 2001, 5:58 AM
Post ID: 1707008131
Here IMHO is my list of how to get steel studs out from cast alloy in
decending order of effectiveness, gleaned from removing dozens of VW exhaust
& other studs:
1. If there is any protuding stud: heat surrounding area with oxy torch as
much as you can/dare. Grab stud with Vice-Grips (a good pair that still has
teeth). Stud will probably come out easy. If not, you've not got alloy hot
enough.
2. See no's 2 & 3 but get someone with more experience to do job.
3. Fix casting in mill & machine out.
4. Fix casting in drill & drill out using ever larger bits. Tricky to centre
drill.
5. Drill out with hand drill. Very tricky to centre drill & drill straight.
6. Can't think of any more methods I'd use personally, though I've probably
forgotten some.
Easy outs: Never had one work yet. I'm still puzzled at how they might ever
work as they are smaller diameter than original stud & much more brittle.
Also they have the "slight" design flaw that the more you twist them, the
more they splay the stud making it tighter. Genius!
If one snaps in situ, they are almost impossible to drill out & it usually
means spark erosion which seems to leave a massive crater hence me not
including sparking out on the list.
cookie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Giller" <bgil-@mitre.org>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 06, 2001 12:55 PM
Subject: Re: Broken generator bolts
| ============================================================ FLY AWAY WITH SAVINGS AT STYLESCHECKS.COM! If you love Birds, you'll love the Bird checks from Styles Checks You're one click away from better prices and better designs. http://click.topica.com/caaacmgb1dfltb2DS92a/stylechecks ============================================================ Recently I tried to remove all the exhaust studs (8) from an Alfa 2 liter head (don't ask me why, I have no explanation). Only two came out willingly using the double-nut method; 2 sheared off with double-nut method; 4 sheared off using a Craftsman stud-remover tool (worthless junk in my opinion). I bought a set of Craftsmans Power bolt Extractors exactly like the ones in the Penn. Tool catalog. Didn't work any better than Ez-Outs except that they didn't break inside the drilled out hole. Drilled two of them to use my new toy and when it didn't work out, tried to drill the stud out and made a slight mess (bad angle). Whipped out my Mig welder, bought a bunch of nuts and welded the nuts to the remaining portions of the other studs. Using heat and a hand impact-driver, I managed to get out 3 more out. 3 of them sheared off flush with the head. The head went off to the machine shop for lots of work and included in the bill was a line item for stud extraction and a few heli-coils. My conclusion on stud removal: don't! But if you have to, heat up the metal surrounding the stud as much as you can before applying any rotational force. In fact several cycles of heat 'n cold helps. My next toy is going to be one of those stud extractors that look like sockets which fit over the stud and by a cam action grip the stud as you turn the socket. And left handed drill bits can be found at most decent hardware stores. Bruce '72 Eldo
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