Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: Horn Trouble

Author: Pete Scheer

Date: Jul 11, 2001, 11:50 AM

Post ID: 1707453345


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Dennis,

Hey, I really think you will find the culprit in the ground circuit.
Just a step by step approach will nail that gremlin.

But, if you do all that and are at a dead end, I have an original cev off
mine that I would lend you if you want to try and swap it out and see
what happens.
Pete
71 Ambo
,
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Jones [mailto:dbjo-@cobweb.net]
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2001 7:20 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Horn Trouble



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Thanks to Andy, Pete, Eric & Paul and anyone else I have forgotten for the
replies. I don't really want to replace the original switchgear for other
brand stuff. Would like to keep the bike as original as possible. So,
unfortunately the news is that I should trace my ground circuit and try to
find a culprit there. Thanks for the advice. I'm sure you are right. I
just hate little invisible electrons running thru circuits encapsulated in
insulation, none of which I can see, looking for an invisible problem.
Much easier to discover broken parts and replace'em.
Dennis

----- Original Message -----
From: Pete Scheer <mailto:plsc-@tycoelectronics.com>
To: 'Loopfram-@topica.com' <mailto:'Loopfram-@topica.com'>
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 10:11 PM
Subject: RE: Horn Trouble

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============================================================
Dennis,
I had the same problem with the stock horn. I could barely hear it over the
engine. I replaced it with a pair of Fiamms, one mounted on each crashbar.
Sounds like a Buick from the 60's.
I changed my setup to a Kawasaki switch from a local salvage yard. I added
a relay ( mounted in the frame pocket under the tank). I followed an
excellent tutorial on relays that was shared by another looper.

I suspect your problem is in the ground circuit. From what I remember ,
the stock switch closes the ground circuit allowing current to flow thru the
horn. The ground path is thru the cev cover and thru the mounting screws
to the handlebar. >From the handlebar thru the clamps to the triple tree,
etc etc until it gets to the battery.

If there is any corrosion or a loose connection anywhere, you can have high
resistance in the ground path.

If you have a tester, check the continuity from the CEV housing to the neg
battery terminal.
It should show no resistance or the same reading as when you touch the 2
probes together. If you show resistance then you have to start tracking
down where the resistance is.

BL ( Before Loops ) I used to think only of the positive side of the DC
circuit wiring, kind of forgetting about the ground. Its exactly as
important as the positive current path. I learned ..

Good Luck
Pete


-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Jones [mailto:dbjo-@cobweb.net]
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2001 7:48 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Horn Trouble


============================================================

It's all about finding out what you need to know, when you

need to know it. At developerWorks, we're all about open

standards-based software development. Get the newsletter.

http://click.topica.com/caaacwIb1dfltb2DJrHb/developerWorks
<http://click.topica.com/caaacwIb1dfltb2DJrHb/developerWorks>

============================================================
Since we're havin' such fun with electrical woes on loopframes, here's
another. Ever since I got my Eldo in 1997 I have had horn troubles. It
came with the original horn, and the horn beeped weakly. I would fiddle
with cleaning the connections and then the horn adjustor nut to get it to
work, but it was an on again/off again thing. Sometimes it would work, and
sometimes it just squeaked or simply didn't sound at all. I shopped for a
replacement horn and, after trying two, I settled on a Fiamm as I recall.
It worked well and was pretty loud when I installed it over last winter.
When I took it to the NY Rally, I noticed that the horn would only sound
intermittently, and I would often have to massage the horn button to get it
to sound. Rode the bike this past weekend and the horn wouldn't work at
all. Removed the switchbox cover off the CEV switchgear and cleaned the
horn button contacts. It's a NOS switch (less than 2 years old), so it
doesn't have years of wear and doesn't see rain. Anyhow, upon re-assembly
it would make the horn beep weakly compared to the 130 decibels advertized,
and that it used to deliver. My question is......have others had nuisance
problems with horns on loopframes? Do you run a relay on your horn circuit,
and is that the solution? I would like to be able to get on my Eldo every
ride and know that my horn will work, and from the day I bought this bike, I
have never had that assurance from week to week. Any input would be
appreciated.
Dennis

============================================================

Hot. Cool. And FREE.

Get outrageously awesome offers on stuff you want emailed

direct.

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<DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=770403618-11072001>Dennis,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=770403618-11072001></SPAN><FONT color=#0000ff
face=Arial> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=770403618-11072001>Hey, I really think you will find the culprit in
the ground circuit.<SPAN class=520343818-11072001> Just a step
by step approach will nail that gremlin.</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=770403618-11072001></SPAN><FONT color=#0000ff
face=Arial> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT face=Arial><SPAN
class=770403618-11072001>But, if you do all that and are at a dead
end, I have an original <SPAN class=520343818-11072001>cev </SPAN>off
mine that I would lend you if you want to try and <SPAN
class=520343818-11072001> swap it out and see what
happens. </SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=770403618-11072001><SPAN
class=520343818-11072001>Pete</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=770403618-11072001><SPAN
class=520343818-11072001>71 Ambo</SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><FONT face=Arial><SPAN class=770403618-11072001><SPAN
class=520343818-11072001>, </SPAN></SPAN></FONT></FONT><SPAN
class=770403618-11072001><SPAN class=520343818-11072001></SPAN></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=770403618-11072001><SPAN
class=520343818-11072001> </SPAN></SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Dennis Jones
[mailto:dbjo-@cobweb.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, July 10, 2001 7:20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Horn
Trouble<BR><BR></DIV></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"></FONT><PRE>============================================================
FREE BOOK full of professional decorating advice! And a
FREE newsletter bringing you weekly advice from publications
like Real Simple, Homestyle, Rosie and many more!
<A href="http://click.topica.com/caaacA8b1dfltb2DJrHb/BlueDolphin">http://click.topica.com/caaacA8b1dfltb2DJrHb/BlueDolphin</A>
============================================================</PRE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Thanks to Andy, Pete, Eric & Paul and anyone
else I have forgotten for the replies. I don't really want to replace
the original switchgear for other brand stuff. Would like to keep the
bike as original as possible. So, unfortunately the news is that I
should trace my ground circuit and try to find a culprit there. Thanks
for the advice. I'm sure you are right. I just hate little
invisible electrons running thru circuits encapsulated in insulation, none of
which I can see, looking for an invisible problem. Much easier to
discover broken parts and replace'em.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Dennis</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A href="mailto:plsc-@tycoelectronics.com"
title=p-@tycoelectronics.com>Pete Scheer</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:'Loopfram-@topica.com'"
title=Loopf-@topica.com>'Loopfram-@topica.com'</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 09, 2001 10:11
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Horn Trouble</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV><PRE>============================================================
Need to s-t-r-e-t-c-h your dollars?
Get more bang for your buck with cool savings, hot deals, &
free stuff.
<A href="http://click.topica.com/caaacgFb1dfltb2CdEAb/TopOffers">http://click.topica.com/caaacgFb1dfltb2CdEAb/TopOffers</A>
============================================================</PRE>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001>Dennis,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001>I had the
same problem with the stock horn. I could barely hear it over the
engine. I replaced it with a pair of Fiamms, one mounted on each
crashbar. Sounds like a Buick from the 60's.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001>I changed
my setup to a Kawasaki switch from a local salvage yard. I added a
relay ( mounted in the frame pocket under the tank). I
followed an excellent tutorial on relays that was shared by another
looper. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001></SPAN></FONT><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001>I suspect your problem is in the ground
circuit. From what I remember , the stock switch closes the
ground circuit allowing current to flow thru the horn. The
ground path is thru the cev cover and thru the mounting screws to the
handlebar. >From the handlebar thru the clamps to the triple tree,
etc etc until it gets to the battery. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001> If
there is any corrosion or a loose connection anywhere, you can have high
resistance in the ground path.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001>If you
have a tester, check the continuity from the CEV housing to the
neg battery terminal.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001>It should
show no resistance or the same reading as when you touch the 2 probes
together. If you show resistance then you have to start tracking down
where the resistance is.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001> BL
( Before Loops ) I used to think only of the positive side
of the DC circuit wiring, kind of forgetting about the ground.
Its exactly as important as the positive current path. I learned ..
</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN class=320072201-10072001>Good
Luck</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001>Pete</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial><SPAN
class=320072201-10072001></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> Dennis Jones
[mailto:dbjo-@cobweb.net]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Monday, July 09, 2001 7:48
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Horn
Trouble<BR><BR></DIV></FONT><PRE>============================================================
It's all about finding out what you need to know, when you
need to know it. At developerWorks, we're all about open
standards-based software development. Get the newsletter.
<A href="http://click.topica.com/caaacwIb1dfltb2DJrHb/developerWorks">http://click.topica.com/caaacwIb1dfltb2DJrHb/developerWorks</A>
============================================================</PRE>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Since we're havin' such fun with electrical
woes on loopframes, here's another. Ever since I got my Eldo in 1997
I have had horn troubles. It came with the original horn, and the
horn beeped weakly. I would fiddle with cleaning the connections and
then the horn adjustor nut to get it to work, but it was an on again/off
again thing. Sometimes it would work, and sometimes it just squeaked
or simply didn't sound at all. I shopped for a replacement horn and,
after trying two, I settled on a Fiamm as I recall. It worked well
and was pretty loud when I installed it over last winter. When I
took it to the NY Rally, I noticed that the horn would only sound
intermittently, and I would often have to massage the horn button to get
it to sound. Rode the bike this past weekend and the horn wouldn't
work at all. Removed the switchbox cover off the CEV switchgear and
cleaned the horn button contacts. It's a NOS switch (less than 2
years old), so it doesn't have years of wear and doesn't see rain.
Anyhow, upon re-assembly it would make the horn beep weakly compared to
the 130 decibels advertized, and that it used to deliver. My
question is......have others had nuisance problems with horns on
loopframes? Do you run a relay on your horn circuit, and is that the
solution? I would like to be able to get on my Eldo every ride and
know that my horn will work, and from the day I bought this bike, I have
never had that assurance from week to week. Any input would be
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Dennis</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE><PRE>============================================================
Hot. Cool. And FREE.
Get outrageously awesome offers on stuff you want emailed
direct.
<A href="http://click.topica.com/caaacgGb1dfltb2DJrHg/TopOffers">http://click.topica.com/caaacgGb1dfltb2DJrHg/TopOffers</A>
============================================================</PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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