Subject: RE: carb settings

thanks for the info, man.

Well I don't define snorting and running rought with a hard start. A hard
start, to me, takes 4-5 tries to get it to run.

I had the single flip choke over one cylinder. I found another flip
choke...maybe I'll run one over each cylinder.

I pulled the tops off the carbs last night to check the needle settings. All
good.

then I noticed the intake was kinda tweaked...that would mess stuff up. so I
loosened the carbs and airbox and tweaked it around until it was right. then
I put some hose clamps on the intakes to seal any air leaks. then I fored it
up (still warmish) and settled into an idle. then I pulled up on each of the
throttle cables. on the right one the motor lugged as it should and on the
left the idle just climbed. whoops out of whack. got those settled. then I
screwed the idle screw in until the motor tried to die. Then I brought it
back out until it revved higher than the idle setting, backed the idle down,
repeat. we'll see how it goes.

I did notice that the timing gears seem really loud. I'm used to that sound
meaning a DOA timing chain on a BMW. odder is that the sound goes away when
you rev up even a small amount. It's like there is lash in the teeth. I'm
not used to the sounds on the loopframes yet. Normal?

Those settings are for the air mixture screw (no spring, mostly inside the
carb) and are correct for a starting point, tho it should be 2 to 2-1/2 on
the right. The idle screw should be set so that the cylinder you are
working on only fires 5 or so times with the other cylinder's plug
disconnected.
To set the mixture screw, turn it in or out and see by 1/4 turns until the
bike idles faster/better, then starts to falter...reverse it back to where
it idled fastest/best. Do the other side. Re set idle speed screws as
it'll be a bit higher now. Repeat as necessary (once or twice should do
it).
My bike is a biotch to start without the choke too. You could buy some
flipper chokes, but these being on the carbs are kinda hard to reach. But,
theres no cable and it gets one more thing off the handlebars.

From: "Zerhackermann ." <chopp-@hotmail.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: carb settings
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 20:13:14 -0000

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As you all probably don't recall, I had some black smoke coming from my
right pipe at idle. I fiddled with the choke. as suspected, there is no0
slack in the cables, this would mean that the choke is at least partially
activated. I could have farted around with it for a while and shortened

the

sleeve so that it could have some slack. But in the end I just ripped the
sucker off the bike entirely.

Now the smoke is gone and the bike Idles quite nicely. However it is

bitchy

to start (it does start but it does a lot of complaining) no biggee

except

being another symptom.

More disturbing is the transition from idle to moving. It wasn't bad

today

(cool and raining) but previously,on a hot day, it was bad enough that I
had
to rev it quite high and feed some serious clutch to get rolling. But

only

if I was starting on an incline.

so anyhow, it seems the idle mixture may be off and quite possibly the
synchronization as well. The synch is no sweat. I'll do that tonight. But
I'm having trouble finding the specs to reset the idle mixture to

original

(set to zero and adjust) was it all in and 1.5 out on the left and 2.5 on
the right?
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Subject: RE: carb settings

Author: Zerhackermann .

Date: Jul 17, 2001, 8:40 AM

Post ID: 1707523328

Entire thread: