Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: db floorboards

Author: Martin Cooke

Date: Jul 30, 2001, 8:09 AM

Post ID: 1707690946


Sorry, I must have lost the plot a while back. I wasn't suggesting welding
steel to aluminium though.

Anyhow, why not use a stock steel lever & extend it? I don't want to seem
particularly thick but it's got to be easier than cutting splines. Surely it
can't be about saving weight.

I heard Guzzi were going to make several components on these bikes out of
concrete, but realised that steel would be heavier :-)

cookie

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Cheek <kg8-@home.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 9:57 PM
Subject: RE: db floorboards


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The lever he wants to use is made from cast aluminum. Welding steel to
aluminum is a lot harder than about 15 minutes at the Bridgeport:-)
Easier still buy a new one. I think he was trying to save a few bucks.
Martin Cooke wrote:
 If all you want is a different length of lever, why not take a stock
item &
cut & shut it, fill with braze & re-chrome.

Sounds a lot easier to me.

cookie

----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Cheek <kg8-@home.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 29, 2001 5:39 PM
Subject: RE: db floorboards


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Just saw this post and figuired a response was in order. I read
another response commenting on the use of a broach. While a broach is
used in production applications the cost in this case is of course
extreme. The heating method will only find the part you desire to form
to be quenched quickly when contact is made with the male part,unless
of
 
 
 course the male part is preheated. In the case of heating to form ,a
suitable part will be very hard if not impossible . You also stand a
very good chance of destoying your casting.
The way we would most likely undertake cutting the inside spline
would
 
 
 be to use a cutter sharpend to conform with the desired profile. We
would then center the workpiece mouted on a rotary table below the
spindle of a vertical mill IE:"Bridgeport" . The work piece would be
offset to correspond to the major diameter. The cutter would be driven
slotter style thru the bore,retracted ,the rotary table would be
rotated
 
 
 the appropriate nunber of degrees . The steps repeated till the spline
was formed . This process could well be acheive with other machines by
adapting the scheme . A lathe with a means to index the spindle would
work as would a stout drill press or an arbor press.

If you cannot find a local shop with these capabilities let me know .
I
 
 
 can probably do the job for you.


Gary Cheek

1971 Ambassador
1972 Eldorado
Previous
1970 Ambassador
1973 Eldorado
1984 Ducati 900 SS
1974 Ducati 750 SS
1972 Ducati 450
...And over 30 Bristish Bikes
BTW Should you happen to come across asuitable broach NEVER withdraw
it
 
 
 as was posted earlier. A broach is pused thru ,from one side to the
other dragging it backwards will only dull the cutting edges.
Paul Linn wrote:>
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If this is aluminum do not heat red hot. It will melt first. If its
aluminum
drill the hole for the fastener tighten it up just enough to fit it
over
 
 
 
 the
end of the spline then tighten the bolt a little and tap it with a
piece
of wood so as not to mar the outside surface and when its on you'll
find
 
 
 
 a
spline. aluminum is soft. IIt won't hurt the spline. If your going
to
 
 
 
 heat
treat it do it after the spline is made.

Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2001 00:27:41 EDT
From: GUZZI-@aol.com
Subject: Re: DB Floorboard Shifter


drill the hole close to outside diameter,heat spline red hot and
press
 
 
 
 it
in,let cool,done.Dont know if this will work,but its the only thing
I
 
 
 
 can
come up with,Mark.wwwmotoguzziclassics.com




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