Subject: Re: Cleaning finish on engine and cylinders/fins
Author: Terrence Scanlon
Date: Jun 10, 2002, 8:59 PM
Post ID: 1710410064
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lenny Seidman" <lsei-@erols.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 09, 2002 12:42 PM
| Well now that I have my engine and trans out of my Ambo due to the trans not being able to be shifted I want to clean the engine, fins and cylinders and get all oxidation stains off and get a uniform finish on the rough aluminum surfaces/cases and fins. I did try and look on the topica archives but it told me there are no messages on the loopframe archives. Any suggestions on best way to proceed? |
Here are some things I dug up in my archive:
From: Jeff Meegan [SMTP:jef-@wasabinetworks.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 9:56 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: cleaning, rebuilding motor
ok, bad manners and all hijacking someone elses thread, but
what about an engine that is not stripped down? I'm guessing
elbowgrease and the kitchen scrubby pads?
--j
From: "Rich Zink" <rzi-@co.alameda.ca.us>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 1:10 PM
Subject: RE: cleaning, rebuilding motor
| For maintaning that 'freshly blasted' look and that 'just showered' smell on my Ambo, I use Eagle 1 wheel cleaner formula B (I think it's B), the kind that says Etching on the bottle. Spray it on, wait 15-20 seconds and high pressure hose it off. For stubborn stains I use Scotch Brite pads or a tooth brush with a small amount of full strength Deck cleaner (careful around paint) on it. Big word of caution on the etching wheel cleaner, do not under any circumstances get it on any polished aluminum or you will be back at it with the buffing wheel and Mother's or other polishing compound and lots of elbow grease to get the shine back. I have not had much luck with any preservative measures. I have heard to use WD40, Armor All and other things after the metal is clean but none seem to work for me. Just let it oxidize gracefully and do it again. Good luck, Rich |
From: "Tim Youtsey" <ti-@pctusa.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 7:06 PM
Subject: RE: cleaning, rebuilding motor
I had some luck using simple green to get most of the dirt and greese of the 70' Ambo that I am rebuilding. I have completely disassembled the engine. I used (no laughs please) muratic (pool) acid on the cases. I actually used a resin thickener used for epoxy and polyester resin with the acid to turn it into a gel. I painted the cases with the acid and let it set for approx 15 minutes scrubbing a little with a plastic brush. I rinsed the |
| off with baking soda and water. I then washed the cases with hot soapy water and rinsed with hot water. I had really good results. The aluminum is really bright. I wanted |
| know what to seal the cases with and I think Tom Bowes may have answered my question with sodium silicate. Of course I don't have any idea what sodium silicate is or if it is used in any other type of household product that I may be familiar with. I noticed that I |
| much better results on the engine case. The timing gear cover and oil pan really didn't brighten as well. Probably a different alloy of aluminum. Tim Youtsey, 73' Police, 70' Ambo |
From: "Tom Bowes" <kk-@home.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 6:21 PM
Subject: RE: cleaning, rebuilding motor
Jason, Before you try bead or any other abrasive media blasting give the parts a wash with Formula 409, and then Eagle One Formula B mag wheel cleaner. The 409 gets all the grease out of the pores of the aluminum, and the mag cleaner etches the surface to give it a consistent look. Make sure you use HOT water for the cleaning and rinsing in order to get maximum effectiveness. Clean between cylinder and head fins with a thin, round brass brush. The cases can later be sealed with sodium silicate gel, thinned to a water-like consistency, applied with a paint brush and immediately dried back out with a heat gun. I did this on my cases, they look great and are easily cleaned |
Terry