Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: exhaust probs

Author: Jesse Open

Date: Jul 27, 2002, 12:37 PM

Post ID: 1710682600


I will post a pic for you ,stay tuned !
Yes it did father a few offspring.
The "hook wrench" is the next best but they are usually too short and
when pushed to the torque required they tend to distort the nut.
Retorque is not needed when sufficient initial torque is used in
conjunction with the frame clamps.
murp-@aol.com wrote:
 Jesse,
A couple of weeks ago I went to a tool distributor and had quite a
hard time describing a hook wrench, but ended up getting one. I can't
imagine what would happen if I went in there and asked for a
"castellated wrench which drives on the TANGENT". Could you tell me how
large this is (and maybe what it looks like), how much one costs, and
where one could get something like this.
Thanks,
Brian
'74 Eldo
'78 T3
'76 T3 basket

Jesse Open wrote:
 It IS the choice of so many POs :-))
Of course if you use the RIGHT wrench you won't have to worry about
TAKING a "hook" wrench WITH YOU !!!
Zerhackermann wrote:
 A hook wrench works just fine.


-----Original Message-----
From: Jesse Open [mailto:Beaver-@comcast.net]
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 1:49 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: exhaust probs


First GET RID OF THE LOCKNUT ! It only pulls the gland nut AWAY from
the gasket ring and DECREASES the pressure you are relying on to seal
the joint. They MAY work OK if you have little wear on the threads but
you are far better off to PROPERLY tighten the gland nut WITHOUT the
lock ring. The original chrome plated brass gland nuts were very easy on
the aluminum threads and also had a higher coefficient of thermal
expansion which actually caused them to hold better when hot.
A properly tightened nut will hold until you WANT to take it apart.
Most of the problems come from people afraid to tighten them fully for
fear of stripping the threads. A little high temp PERMATEX ANTI SIEZE
and a LOT of ttorque with the PROPER tool are required ! Pipe wrenches
, spanner wrenches ,hammer and punch , basin wrenches etc. are NOT the
proper tool. A castellated wrench that drive on the TANGENT is the best
way . The others tend to distort the tubular gland nut long before the
proper torque is achieved. They may work now and then but to be sure the
good tool is a must.
If you don't have access to the right tool ,email me and you may
borrow mine. IT WILL WORK !! :-) Martin Cooke wrote:
 to whoever wrote this (i've lost track):

"cookie I always thought exhaust if it pops letting off the throttle
and intake air leak if it popped getting on the throtle? B."

an air leak at the exhaust manifold will pop on the over run. an air
leak on the intake will just make it run weak in my experience.

now if anyone knows how to stop an eldo getting a loose joint at the
head/downpipe i'd like to know. got a friends bike doing this all the
time. NOT the nut coming loose (it's the locknut type), it just eats
the gasket
after a few miles, air gets in, backfires like crazy. i put new
gaskets
 in &
it's fine for a while, then same thing.

it started happening when new mufflers were fitted with rear balance
pipe removed. i think it may be to do with the pipes moving &
flattening off the
gaskets. however the exhaust assy doesn't appear to be moving any more
than
stock.

i must have put 6 sets of ex gaskets in that bike & i'm getting fed up

 now.

cookie


----- Original Message -----
From: "E. C. Bud Durdle" <bu-@olympus.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 861


On Wednesday 24 July 2002 10:16 pm, you wrote:
 I heard a little while ago that the popping could be from looseness
at the head/exhaust header joint, or somewhere close to that. Check
to make sure
the exhaust is tight up there, and/or has no leaks.

 I am working on a 74 Eldo I just picked up with Amal Carbs. When I

 
 
 let
off the throttle and am gearing down
it pops through the mufflers. I have played with the air screws and it

 has gotten better, but it is still
 there. I have checked the carb intake gaskets and they are fine.
Someone
told me
this is a common problem with running amals on a Guzzi. Any ideas


 
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 09:05:15 +0100
From: "Martin Cooke" <mjco-@nildram.co.uk>
Subject: Re: carb & air filter question


almost certainly an air leak as matt has said

cookie

cookie I always thought exhaust if it pops letting off the throttle
and intake air leak if it popped getting on the throtle? B.



1972 Eldo Cop
1974 Eldo 4LS Civvie
Looking for 1974 Ducati 750 Sport, 1984 Ducati 900 SS



1972 Eldo Cop
1974 Eldo 4LS Civvie
Looking for 1974 Ducati 750 Sport, 1984 Ducati 900 SS



Is that the Single malt talking or just another CHEAP WHINE ?

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