Subject: Re: Patience is Dead
Author: thomas halchuk
Date: Oct 6, 2002, 8:18 PM
Post ID: 1711155817
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Allan
I'm interested in the GEO alternator mod.
Do you have any pics?
Tom in Boston
----- Original Message -----
From: Allan
To: Loopframe_Guzzi
Sent: Tuesday, September 24, 2002 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: Patience is Dead
Hi,
When I replaced the front main seal on my Eldo, I just put the original guzzi wrench on the nut and hit it with a hammer. It came right off no problems. As a help to you If you need them I have a set of gears in my junk pile I would be willing to give you.
My eldo is back on the road finally as the Geo Metro alternater is working now. Imagine the battery charging while at an idle. If anyone else is forced into this mod I will give details.
Allan
72 Eldorado
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Field
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 12:32 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Patience is Dead
If you can start it with the electric starter, then the flywheel bolts
are not likely the problem (because then the starter would only spin the
flywheel).
I think you are on the right track looking in the timing chest. You may
have chipped a gear tooth.
GF
On Sunday, September 22, 2002, at 01:04 AM, Martin Cooke wrote:
> the reason you can't usually get the nut off is cos the crank moves
> lessening the initial torque you can apply on nut.
>
> get a piece of flat steel bar & drill it so it slips over the large nut
> (that's the tricky bit) then drill 3 more small hole to line up with
> the M6
> holes that mount the generator pulley. bolt it on, & use socket &
> breaker
> bar to remove nut.
>
> alternatively, do what i did the first time: put the motor in the car &
> drive it to the local tyre fitters & have them remove nut with a windy
> gun.
>
> cookie
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Keith Ruff" <klru-@fcc.net>
> To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
> Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 7:43 PM
> Subject: RE: Patience is Dead
>
>
>> Appreciate the vote of confidence and support Tom. Spoke with Dave
>> Otis
>> this morning and let him hear the racket via phone, his response was
>> "She sure does sound sick!", I agreed. I'm too far into this project
>> now to give up, so I will push on. Here's the next question:
>>
>> From what Dave I can tell, the sound is seems to be coming from the
>> timing chest. I follow the steps on how to get the timing chest cover
>> off, but man is that crank bolt on there tight! Any advice on how to
>> get it off w/o a compressor and air gun? I got a good grip on it by
>> taking off the lower pulley wheel (inner and outer 1/2) and belt, and
>> was gripping the cylinydrical part behind the bolt with channel locks,
>> and tried with all my might to break the nut loose, but couldn't do it.
>> I'll ask Cam to give me a hand as perhaps with 2 hands and an extension
>> or a longer 1/2" drive socket wrench will get that sucker to crack!
>> Any
>> advice on this, has anyone been able to crack this nut without power
>> tools and how? I think the mystery is hiding behind that timing chest
>> cover. BTW, that is the seal that started leaking also, and remember
>> that gen belt that burnt up on me? Perhaps this is all related? Where
>> are the flywheel bolts that a few of you mentioned being toasted? Same
>> area?
>>
>> Thanx for the help again!!
>>
>> Keith Ruff
>> 71 Police Ambassador - NJ
>>
>> Arizona Kid wrote:
>>>
>>> Keith Ruff wrote:
>>> ! The never ending Patience saga
>>>> continues.......
>>>>
>>>> Keith Ruff
>>>> 71 Police Ambassador - NJ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sorry to hear that, buddy. But, like we said before, letting a bike
> sit
>>>> ain't good for it. I was hoping for you that it was just a spun
> bearing,
>>>>
>>>> an easy fix.
>>>
>>> Don't loose faith, partner. You're not in this alone! You got a great
>>> bunch of folks here that will help you through this.
>>>
>>> DO NOT SELL PATIENCE!!!!
>>>
>>> We will be here for ya, buddy!!!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The 'Arizona Kid'
>>>
>>> Tom Short
>>> AZ MGNOC Rep
>>> Phoenix, AZ
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Allan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>I'm interested in the GEO alternator
mod.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Do you have any pics?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3>Tom in Boston</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=-@msn.com href="mailto:mut-@msn.com">Allan</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=Loopf-@topica.com
href="mailto:Loopfram-@topica.com">Loopframe_Guzzi</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, September 24, 2002 4:30
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Patience is Dead</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV>Hi, </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>When I replaced the front main seal on my Eldo, I just put the original
guzzi wrench on the nut and hit it with a hammer. It came right off no
problems. As a help to you If you need them I have a set of gears in my junk
pile I would be willing to give you.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>My eldo is back on the road finally as the Geo Metro alternater is
working now. Imagine the battery charging while at an idle. If anyone else is
forced into this mod I will give details.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Allan</DIV>
<DIV>72 Eldorado</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B>
Greg Field</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, September 22, 2002 12:32
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Patience is Dead</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>If you can start it with the electric starter, then the
flywheel bolts <BR>are not likely the problem (because then the starter
would only spin the <BR>flywheel).<BR><BR>I think you are on the right track
looking in the timing chest. You may <BR>have chipped a gear
tooth.<BR><BR>GF<BR><BR>On Sunday, September 22, 2002, at 01:04 AM, Martin
Cooke wrote:<BR><BR>> the reason you can't usually get the nut off is cos
the crank moves<BR>> lessening the initial torque you can apply on
nut.<BR>><BR>> get a piece of flat steel bar & drill it so it
slips over the large nut<BR>> (that's the tricky bit) then drill 3 more
small hole to line up with <BR>> the M6<BR>> holes that mount the
generator pulley. bolt it on, & use socket & <BR>>
breaker<BR>> bar to remove nut.<BR>><BR>> alternatively, do what i
did the first time: put the motor in the car &<BR>> drive it to the
local tyre fitters & have them remove nut with a windy <BR>>
gun.<BR>><BR>> cookie<BR>><BR>><BR>> ----- Original Message
-----<BR>> From: "Keith Ruff" <klru-@fcc.net><BR>> To:
<Loopfram-@topica.com><BR>> Sent: Saturday, September 21,
2002 7:43 PM<BR>> Subject: RE: Patience is
Dead<BR>><BR>><BR>>> Appreciate the vote of confidence and
support Tom. Spoke with Dave <BR>>> Otis<BR>>> this
morning and let him hear the racket via phone, his response was<BR>>>
"She sure does sound sick!", I agreed. I'm too far into this
project<BR>>> now to give up, so I will push on. Here's the next
question:<BR>>><BR>>> From what Dave I can tell, the sound is
seems to be coming from the<BR>>> timing chest. I follow the
steps on how to get the timing chest cover<BR>>> off, but man is that
crank bolt on there tight! Any advice on how to<BR>>> get it off
w/o a compressor and air gun? I got a good grip on it by<BR>>>
taking off the lower pulley wheel (inner and outer 1/2) and belt,
and<BR>>> was gripping the cylinydrical part behind the bolt with
channel locks,<BR>>> and tried with all my might to break the nut
loose, but couldn't do it.<BR>>> I'll ask Cam to give me a hand as
perhaps with 2 hands and an extension<BR>>> or a longer 1/2" drive
socket wrench will get that sucker to crack! <BR>>>
Any<BR>>> advice on this, has anyone been able to crack this nut
without power<BR>>> tools and how? I think the mystery is hiding
behind that timing chest<BR>>> cover. BTW, that is the seal that
started leaking also, and remember<BR>>> that gen belt that burnt up
on me? Perhaps this is all related? Where<BR>>> are the
flywheel bolts that a few of you mentioned being toasted?
Same<BR>>> area?<BR>>><BR>>> Thanx for the help
again!!<BR>>><BR>>> Keith Ruff<BR>>> 71 Police Ambassador
- NJ<BR>>><BR>>> Arizona Kid
wrote:<BR>>>><BR>>>> Keith Ruff wrote:<BR>>>>
! The never ending Patience saga<BR>>>>>
continues.......<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> Keith
Ruff<BR>>>>> 71 Police Ambassador -
NJ<BR>>>>><BR>>>>><BR>>>>> Sorry to hear
that, buddy. But, like we said before, letting a bike<BR>>
sit<BR>>>>> ain't good for it. I was hoping for you that it was
just a spun<BR>> bearing,<BR>>>>><BR>>>>> an easy
fix.<BR>>>><BR>>>> Don't loose faith, partner. You're not
in this alone! You got a great<BR>>>> bunch of folks here that will
help you through this.<BR>>>><BR>>>> DO NOT SELL
PATIENCE!!!!<BR>>>><BR>>>> We will be here for ya,
buddy!!!<BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>> The
'Arizona Kid'<BR>>>><BR>>>> Tom Short<BR>>>> AZ
MGNOC Rep<BR>>>> Phoenix,
AZ<BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>>><BR>>><BR>>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR>><BR><BR>==^================================================================<BR>This
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