Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: faded taillight lenses, was LED 1157 bulbs

Author: John Prusnek

Date: Nov 8, 2002, 4:54 AM

Post ID: 1711356352


 

John Boettcher wrote:


 
 There are a few drawbacks as far as lighting the license plate but the
red ones are perfect for the loopers with faded taillight lenses.
Some time ago I wrote an article for the MGNOC newsletter addressing the
issue of restoring faded taillights, I'll reprint it here, it's a pretty
simple fix.

John Prusnek

Restoring faded plastic taillight lenses on Ambassadors and Eldorados

Having restored a 1971 Ambassador recently, I wasn't happy with the
condition of the taillight lens. It had stress cracks from vibration and
overtorquing, and since it had faded to nearly clear, the previous owner
had �fixed� it by spraying the inside with red paint. This cut down on
the amount of light that could pass through it, resulting in a very dim
taillight. Stripping the paint without dissolving the lens was the first
order of business.
Having a wife who is a chemist (and whose bike this is anyway) came in
very handy with regards to stripping the paint. Suzanne says that the
lens is made of polystyrene plastic and things that normally strip paint
(like toluene, xylene (xylol), or lacquer thinner will also attack the
plastic. If the label says aromatic hydrocarbons, don't use it.
Things that will work are ketones such as acetone and MEK (Methyl ethyl
ketone), and, ethanol (vodka). Rubbing or wood alcohol work well also.
An equal mixture of acetone, MEK and alcohol works best.
The next part requires a trip to a craft store for a small (1 oz will do
ya) bottle of transparent glass paint, the type used to make fake
stained glass ornaments. The stuff I used is called Gallery Glass #15118
Ruby Red. I'm sure there are other brands. Follow the directions on the
bottle (not rocket science) and you'll be fine. It has the consistency
of molasses. You should coat the inside of the lens in quadrants,
propping it up on a rag to keep the part you're working on flat. Let it
dry for a day or two and do another quadrant. Fill the lines and
textures molded into the inside of the lens to just about their highest
points, the point being that the coating has an even thickness. Be
patient, do several coats. . .it's a two hour job that takes a few days.
An added benefit to this process is that it strengthens the lens if it's
cracked. For a final touch polish the outside with a plastic polish such
as Maguiars, or if you know what you're doing use rouge and a string
buffing wheel. Don't forget that there's a rubber gasket in there, and
use a dab of locktite instead of muscle if you're worried about it
coming off. Now get out on the road and let your little light shine!

John Prusnek

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