Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE:

Author: Ian Adkins

Date: Mar 27, 2003, 6:23 AM

Post ID: 1712402527


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Bob,

Welcome back!

If the carb is set up right then you should be able to essentially shut the
fuel flow down till the bike stalls.

If you have removed the cables (both of them) and have screwed in the idle
screws to the stops then I might say that the screws are worn...or the slide
has a grove in it where the screw touches it. I think that if you have an
air leak in the carb....like at the top it would creat rough idle not high
idle.

I remember last year that you found out that you had the wrong jets in the
carbs. When you pulled the carbs to clean them did you re install the jets
in their correct locations? The bigger jet (the 145) goes onto the
accelerator pump. The smaller pilot jet (45) goes next to the pump.

Think logically....and you will figure it out.

...Ian


-----Original Message-----
From: 3haw-@bluefrog.biz [mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz]
Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:11 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject:


Gentlemen,
I am back, thanks to Charlie. Hope all of you are well.

I have an opening problem, of course. Last year my 69 Ambo ran pretty
well but she never idled that well so over the winter I cleaned and rebuilt
the carbs. Reinstalled everything. Now, the bike starts well but she idles
way too fast, up near 2000 rpms. I have tried the two screws on the sides
of the carbs at factory specs, above and below factory specs. Even screwed
the srews into the carbs all the way but she still runs real fast. Friend
told me I have an air leak somewhere between the carb and head and to spray
ether which I did but there was no accleration noticable. Took all the
cables off the carbs and buttoned them back up and she still ran fast, with
no cables! Any suggestions out there. Thanks, and again nice to be back.
Bob Hawkes
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<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003>Bob,</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003>Welcome back!</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=590555713-27032003>If the
carb is set up right then you should be able to essentially shut the fuel flow
down till the bike stalls.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=590555713-27032003>If you
have removed the cables (both of them) and have screwed in the idle screws to
the stops then I might say that the screws are worn...or the slide has a grove
in it where the screw touches it. I think that if you have an air leak in
the carb....like at the top it would creat rough idle not high
idle.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=590555713-27032003>I
remember last year that you found out that you had the wrong jets in the carbs.
When you pulled the carbs to clean them did you re install the jets in their
correct locations? The bigger jet (the 145) goes onto the accelerator pump. The
smaller pilot jet (45) goes next to the pump.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=590555713-27032003>Think
logically....and you will figure it out.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003>...Ian</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN
class=590555713-27032003></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
<DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma
size=2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B> 3haw-@bluefrog.biz
[mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz]<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:11
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com<BR><B>Subject:</B>
<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=#000080 size=4>Gentlemen,</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=#000080 size=4>I am back, thanks to Charlie.
Hope all of you are well.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=#000080 size=4></FONT></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=#000080 size=4>I have an opening problem, of
course. Last year my 69 Ambo ran pretty well but she never idled that
well so over the winter I cleaned and rebuilt the carbs. Reinstalled
everything. Now, the bike starts well but she idles way too fast, up
near 2000 rpms. I have tried the two screws on the sides of the carbs at
factory specs, above and below factory specs. Even screwed the srews
into the carbs all the way but she still runs real fast. Friend told me I have
an air leak somewhere between the carb and head and to spray ether which I did
but there was no accleration noticable. Took all the cables off the
carbs and buttoned them back up and she still ran fast, with no cables!
Any suggestions out there. Thanks, and again nice to be
back. </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=#000080 size=4>Bob Hawkes</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>

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