Ian tell me more about the pushrod . You may have already , but should at least check the valve and guide . Check the valve to make sure it is not bent . A quick - QUICK (approximate) check is to roll the valve on the edge of a table or chuck it up in a drill. Note that the head should show no sign of irregular running . Even then it is best to have it checked properly at a machine shop. The valve stem should be checked for the signs og running tight or siezing . A sticky guide can cause an overload to bend a p-rod. NOW for the most often overlooked mis diagnosed cause ; A blown head gasket . The gasket blows hot gasses into the pushrod and the reduced strength will cause the metal to yield and bend . This is most common with Aluminum alloy pushrods . Steel pushrods are not weakened as easily at higher temps and usually survive . Triumph twins are very susceptable and actually break in time when the gasket leaks . Ian Adkins wrote:
Gary,
I'll never live down the Ontario rally.....will I? :-) I promised...next time we get together I'll be buying.
Not sure what rallies are on the agenda. Depends where I am I suppose. If I stay the summer in North GA I will attend anything within a couple hundred miles. Of course the National is in my heart but not on my time table. A job kills one's ability to take off whenever.
I thought you were coming to the southeast? Always a spare bed and room in the garage for any Looper that needs it. Heck I'll even throw in a steak and beers as part of the deal.
Required Loop content: I'm still looking at my wounded 70 Ambo. Haven't had time to deal with the bent intake push rod. Will plan on it this weekend since I will finally have some time. Anyone ever experienced a bent push rod before? I still can't figure out what caused it.
Cheers....Y'all...
-----Original Message----- From: Gary Cheek [mailto:kg8-@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 12:09 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: How to identify a loopframe
Hey Ian, That is a very good summation . Soooo . . . which rallies are you intending to go to this year ? I know it's not related ,I just want to make sure I don't bring any beer since Ian usually supplies that . Ian Adkins wrote:
Tim,
V700's had four digit serial numbers. "Transition" Ambo's had
the letter
"A" prefix a five digit serial number 12xxx. These first Ambos were really V700's with 700 heads and body parts, shifter on the right side. True Ambos (I call them American Ambos) had serial number 13xxx and up.
Hope this helps...Ian
-----Original Message----- From: Custom Guzzi [mailto:paul-@comcast.net] Sent: Monday, March 08, 2004 10:19 PM To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject: RE: How to identify a loopframe
My Ambo I had was July 69 and a 750. I think the 750 started with the 13xxx serial numbers. According to Greg Fields book, the 13xxx was the first series to get the bigger tank and the concentric carbs.
Hope this
helps.
Paul Midlothian, Va MGNOC#19926 73 Eldo "Elvira" next project 74 Eldo "Daisy"
Tim R wrote:
Looking at an early loopframe. Owner says it is an early
750cc, but it
is titled as a 1969, and does not say Ambassador. He
thinks it might
have been a V7 with a 750cc upgrade. How can I be sure?
I think the carbs are different than my Eldo has as well.
Any way to
find serial numbers/production runs?
Would any of you hesitate purchasing one this early in the