Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: (MGCL) metalurgist on list?

Author: Chuck Stottlemyer

Date: Oct 21, 2004, 6:07 PM

Post ID: 1717742423



Hi, Ron.. sorry to chime in late, been off the computer for a while.
If it was hard on the outside only, it's *probably* mild steel that has
been carburized and case hardened. If so, heating to cherry and
quenching won't hurt anything, but won't make it hard, either.. :) A guy
that knows what he's doing can "spark it", and tell by the carbon bursts
or lack of them, whether it's carbon steel or not. If he's *really*
good, he can tell you what kind of steel it is...
At any rate:
If it is steel with carbon in it, heat it to an even carrot color and
plunge it in kerosene. (outside the house..)
This will make it as hard as it will get, but brittle. Now, sand, or
bead blast the part to get the scale off it so you can see the color,
and heat it to a *straw* color, watching it -very- carefully. As soon as
it gets there, drop it back in the kerosene to keep it from getting too
soft.. You can vary the hardness by the color.
Hope this helps!
Cheers!
Chuck in Indiana
98 Centauro
00 Jack-All hack tractor
73 Eldo project

Pete Serrino wrote:

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Ron, If it was machined from "drill rod" you have to know first if it is
oil
or water hardened. There are two types. If it was machined
from mild steel it might have been Case Hardened. A shop that does
hardening might be able to identify the alloy.

Pete



 I have machined a pivot pin from a good grade of steel (I ground it down
from a larger pin) I could feel the metal get softer after about the first
.020" was cut away. I'd like to surface harden my new pin for wear
resistance. I seem to remember to heat to a cherry red & plunge into oil,
but I've learned not to trust my memory. What's correct?
Thanks,
Ron Komoroski

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