Subject: RE: Transmission Input Gear
Author: Bruce Giller
Date: Nov 19, 2004, 8:52 AM
Post ID: 1717914419
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No need to slowly tighten down the clutch bolts as not to warp an
intermediate plate. Guzzi has provided you all the parts required to put
the clutch plates together, align them, compress the springs to tighten the
bolts. You need:
1 engine bolt (even better is a shorter version)
1 tranny hub
1-2 (can't remember how many) aluminum engine bolt spacers
I'm trying to remember exactly how I did this so I might have things
backwards.
In the middle of the flywheel is a threaded hole in which you can screw
in the engine mounting bolt. On to the bolt slide on your tranny hub and a
spacer to center the hub on the bolt. Slide on the clutch and intermediate
discs onto the bolt and onto the hub. Place the clutch springs and pressure
plate (?) on to the flywheel and screw the bolt onto the flywheel until
enough threads are engaged for a solid feel. Get the springs, pressure
plate aligned correctly, then slide the tranny hub with clutch plates down,
then clamp on a ViseGrip (or hose clamp) onto the bolt just after the tranny
hub to prevent the hub from riding up the bolt; everything should be ready
to snug the clutch bolts down.
Now start turning the engine bolt to screw it into the flywheel. Since
the ViseGrip/hose clamp prevents the hub from going up the bolt, it is now
putting pressure on the pressure plate and thusly compressing the springs.
Now it is easy to get the clutch plates aligned with the flywheel and
themselves since the pressure has been relieved. Soon all the clutch
plates are within the flywheel, correctly aligned, and tightening down the
clutch bolts is a snap.
When you do a clutch job with the engine in the bike, the engine bolt is
kind of long and it is more difficult to maneuver around. A shorter bolt
(but not too short) is much nicer. Have a look at the tools at MG Cycle and
you'll see the tranny hub with a bolt thru the middle....$65 for that nice
tool.
Bruce
'72 Eldo
_____
From: IndyDi-@aol.com [mailto:IndyDi-@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2004 10:06 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Transmission Input Gear
In a message dated 11/18/2004 11:29:16 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
ju-@astrocomma.com writes:
My comment: It is beyond me HOW ON EARTH you guys would ever assemble the
clutch with the motor still in the frame. With the motor on its nose, I had
a tough time keeping the springs in place, not to mention lining up the
intermediate plate.
Well, it ain't easy, but it can be done without any special tools. The trick
is to use the tranny input hub for "inner spline" alignment, and then
slightly tighten the clutch bolts to hold the springs in place and so that
there is very mild pressure on all plates. Then you gotta use a straight
pointer tool and starting with the inner most plate, push it around a bit
until it snaps into grooves on flywheel. You will know it as the pressure
will be released. A few more turns on all the bolts for more pressure, and
then next plate. Figure a couple hours for your first time. It wasn't
fun.......but can be done. Brett in Indy
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<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT color=#0000ff>No
need to slowly tighten down the clutch bolts as not to warp an intermediate
plate. Guzzi has provided you all the parts required to put the clutch
plates together, align them, compress the springs to tighten the bolts.
You need:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff> 1 engine bolt (even better is a shorter
version)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff> 1 tranny hub</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff> 1-2 (can't remember how many) aluminum engine
bolt spacers</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff> I'm trying to remember exactly how I did this
so I might have things backwards.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff> In the middle of the flywheel is a threaded
hole in which you can screw in the engine mounting bolt. On to the bolt
slide on your tranny hub and a spacer to center the hub on the bolt.
Slide on the clutch and intermediate discs onto the bolt and onto the hub.
Place the clutch springs and pressure plate (?) on to the flywheel
and screw the bolt onto the flywheel until enough threads are engaged for a
solid feel. Get the springs, pressure plate aligned correctly, then slide
the tranny hub with clutch plates down, then clamp on a ViseGrip (or hose
clamp) onto the bolt just after the tranny hub to prevent the hub from
riding up the bolt; everything should be ready to snug the clutch bolts
down.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004> <FONT
color=#0000ff>Now start turning the engine bolt to screw it into the
flywheel. Since the ViseGrip/hose clamp prevents the hub from going up the
bolt, it is now putting pressure on the pressure plate and thusly compressing
the springs. Now it is easy to get the clutch plates aligned with the
flywheel and themselves since the pressure has been relieved. Soon
all the clutch plates are within the flywheel, correctly aligned, and tightening
down the clutch bolts is a snap.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004> <FONT
color=#0000ff>When you do a clutch job with the engine in the bike, the engine
bolt is kind of long and it is more difficult to maneuver around. A
shorter bolt (but not too short) is much nicer. Have a look at the tools
at MG Cycle and you'll see the tranny hub with a bolt thru the middle....$65 for
that nice tool.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004> <FONT
color=#0000ff>Bruce</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004><FONT
color=#0000ff></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=189442816-19112004> <FONT
color=#0000ff>'72 Eldo</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV class=OutlookMessageHeader lang=en-us dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> IndyDi-@aol.com
[mailto:IndyDi-@aol.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, November 19, 2004 10:06
AM<BR><B>To:</B> Loopfram-@topica.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re:
Transmission Input Gear<BR></FONT></DIV><PRE> </PRE>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 11/18/2004 11:29:16 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
ju-@astrocomma.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid"><FONT
face=Arial>My comment: It is beyond me HOW ON EARTH you guys would ever
assemble the <BR>clutch with the motor still in the frame. With the motor on
its nose, I had <BR>a tough time keeping the springs in place, not to
mention lining up the <BR>intermediate plate.</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV>Well, it ain't easy, but it can be done without any special tools. The
trick is to use the tranny input hub for "inner spline" alignment, and then
slightly tighten the clutch bolts to hold the springs in place and so
that there is very mild pressure on all plates. Then you gotta use a straight
pointer tool and starting with the inner most plate, push it around a bit
until it snaps into grooves on flywheel. You will know it as the pressure will
be released. A few more turns on all the bolts for more pressure, and then
next plate. Figure a couple hours for your first time. It wasn't fun.......but
can be done. Brett in Indy</DIV><PRE> </PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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