Subject: RE: vertical clutch assemly tricks-long
Author: Greg Bender
Date: Nov 19, 2004, 12:41 PM
Post ID: 1717915514
I've no doubt that gluing the springs in place is a perfectly acceptable
method. I've also used a pliers to bend (ever so slightly) the last
round of the spring. With the spring in an oval shape at this last
round, it holds on to the nubs on the flywheel quite nicely. I doubt
this has any effect on the spring's strength, as all the springs I've
ever seen have the last round ground flat and are already weakened by
the removal of this material.
Ron Komoroski wrote:
Guzziesti, I've been following the threads on clutch assembly, especially vertical (motor in the frame) here's how I do it. Trick one is using a little dab of adhesive to hold the clutch springs in their holes in the flywheel. I use weather-strip adhesive available at any auto parts store.It's bright yellow, VERY sticky & holds the springs in place just fine.(Be sure springs & flywheel holes are clean & dry, I use spray carb cleaner to degrease them.) Trick two is a 12X1.5mm bolt w/2 nuts & a thick flat washer about 1.5" in diameter. The bolt I am using is 3" long & I used a 12X1.5mm die to extend the threads up as close to the head of the bolt as possible. (A longer bolt would be easier to work with, I just haven't found one yet) The nuts are run up to the head of the bolt, followed by the flat washer. With the springs "glued" into the flywheel, the clutch pressure plate is installed, carefully noting the relationship of the teeth & clutch spring holes so the springs end up in the right places. The bolt tool is then screwed into the hole in the end of the crank 6-8 turns Then the bolt head is held w/a wrench, while the nuts are turned down the bolt shaft, the flat washer pushing the clutch pressure plate in & gradually compressing the springs. Take it SLOW & watch that the pressure plate is being driven in squarely & not binding. When the pressure plate is in far enough that the clutch driven & intermediate plates can be installed inside the flywheel, use two wrenches to lock the two nuts together on the bolt tool. . Slip a clutch hub in over the bolt tool assembly for alignment then install the clutch driven & intermediate plates, followed by the flywheel ring gear/clutch cover w/it's 8 bolts, just snug them up (I always loctite them). At this point, you should be able to move the clutch hub around just a little, center it up by eye, hold it &use a wrench on the bolt head to begin slowly backing the bolt tool out,.(It should only take a turn or two). As SOON as the spring pressure is released enough to press the clutch plates together & they can no longer be moved w/the clutch hub, recheck the centering of the hub & free movement in & out. If all looks OK, remove the hub & use the two wrenches to unlock the nuts. Hold the bolt head w/a wrench & slowly back the nuts up the bolt shaft until the spring pressure is held by the assembled clutch, then back the bolt tool out. Be careful not to back the bolt out of the crank under spring tension, it WILL tear up the threads-hopefully just on the bolt! Torque down the 8 ring gear bolts & you're done! DON'T get excited & forget to put the little "cup" down inside the clutch before you reinstall the transmission! Tighten just two of the transmission mount nuts, one on each side, hook up the clutch cable & be sure the clutch feels right before you go any further. usual disclaimer-it works for me, try at your own risk. Ron Komoroski PS I've been "gluing" in clutch springs for 20 years, many bikes, many thousands of miles, no problems. |
Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender