Subject: Re: vertical clutch assemly tricks-long
Author: Ted Ward
Date: Nov 20, 2004, 4:30 PM
Post ID: 1717919150
Oops, I meant to respond to Steve Farris on that last email.
On this one I was just gonna thank Ron for the detail. I didn't even realize
that the crank end was threaded. That would definitely help.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Komoroski" <motres-@lynchburg.net>
To: "looperlist" <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2004 1:54 PM
Subject: vertical clutch assemly tricks-long
Guzziesti,
I've been following the threads on clutch assembly, especially vertical
(motor in the frame) here's how I do it.
Trick one is using a little dab of adhesive to hold the clutch springs in
their holes in the flywheel. I use weather-strip adhesive available at any
auto parts store.It's bright yellow, VERY sticky & holds the springs in
place just fine.(Be sure springs & flywheel holes are clean & dry, I use
spray carb cleaner to degrease them.)
Trick two is a 12X1.5mm bolt w/2 nuts & a thick flat washer about 1.5" in
diameter. The bolt I am using is 3" long & I used a 12X1.5mm die to extend
the threads up as close to the head of the bolt as possible. (A longer bolt
would be easier to work with, I just haven't found one yet)
The nuts are run up to the head of the bolt, followed by the flat washer.
With the springs "glued" into the flywheel, the clutch pressure plate is
installed, carefully noting the relationship of the teeth & clutch spring
holes so the springs end up in the right places. The bolt tool is then
screwed into the hole in the end of the crank 6-8 turns Then the bolt head
is held w/a wrench, while the nuts are turned down the bolt shaft, the flat
washer pushing the clutch pressure plate in & gradually compressing the
springs. Take it SLOW & watch that the pressure plate is being driven in
squarely & not binding.
When the pressure plate is in far enough that the clutch driven &
intermediate plates can be installed inside the flywheel, use two wrenches
to lock the two nuts together on the bolt tool. . Slip a clutch hub in over
the bolt tool assembly for alignment then install the clutch driven &
intermediate plates, followed by the flywheel ring gear/clutch cover w/it's
8 bolts, just snug them up (I always loctite them).
At this point, you should be able to move the clutch hub around just a
little, center it up by eye, hold it &use a wrench on the bolt head to begin
slowly backing the bolt tool out,.(It should only take a turn or two). As
SOON as the spring pressure is released enough to press the clutch plates
together & they can no longer be moved w/the clutch hub, recheck the
centering of the hub & free movement in & out. If all looks OK, remove the
hub & use the two wrenches to unlock the nuts. Hold the bolt head w/a wrench
& slowly back the nuts up the bolt shaft until the spring pressure is held
by the assembled clutch, then back the bolt tool out. Be careful not to back
the bolt out of the crank under spring tension, it WILL tear up the
threads-hopefully just on the bolt! Torque down the 8 ring gear bolts &
you're done!
DON'T get excited & forget to put the little "cup" down inside the clutch
before you reinstall the transmission! Tighten just two of the transmission
mount nuts, one on each side, hook up the clutch cable & be sure the clutch
feels right before you go any further.
usual disclaimer-it works for me, try at your own risk.
Ron Komoroski
PS I've been "gluing" in clutch springs for 20 years, many bikes, many
thousands of miles, no problems.
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