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I've done it both ways, and each is about the same in terms of effort,
although you don't have to remove the engine from the frame. If you
don't have the "special tool" for removing the swingarm bolts (the
ones with the two holes for pins, John Chicone produces a nifty tool
for this), its probably easier to put a jack under the pan, remove the
engine mount bolts and generator, coil, mufflers, etc. and slide the
engine forward in the frame. That will give you barely enough
clearance to get the boot off and and get another one in there. Ted's
right, the whole job will take you about 4 hours.
-tom
On Tue, 31 May 2005 09:47:01 -0500
Ted Ward <ju-@astrocomma.com> wrote:
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No special tools needed, but it isn't real simple. You have to either
pull the motor and transmission or remove the swingarm to get the
boot in there. Figure a couple of hours to get it off and a couple to
get it on.
I wish someone would create some sort of quick-release
motor/transmissions mounts.
Ted Ward
Keith Ruff wrote:
| | Great Ride to/from the National but had a few issues shake out. As
John P mentioned in his post, my charging system was not charging
and I did not know it as the dash light was slightly lit but not
enough for me to realize. At 250 miles in, the bike stalled and
cranked slow. At 300 miles, she completely died at a light on Rt
30, no lights, no nuthin. Swapped batteries with Cam (all credit
given to Dave W for this idea) and made it the last 100 miles to the
hotel after a total of 13 hours after leaving home. A great Guzzi
guy named Wes helped me trouble shoot the charging system at the
rally site and it turned out to be a bad voltage regulator. Swapped
it out and all was well. Other bigger issue I had was a leaking
split driveshaft boot (just replaced it before leaving for the
National). Don't know why so much oil is getting in there and
leaking out, but thank God the battery died along the way cause when
we stopped, I noticed gear oil was spued all over my right muffler
and all over the entire right half tread of the rear tire. Would
have been lights out if I went around a right hand sweeper! Mark E
said the clamps I was using were too big, so he used some zip ties
to try to stop the leak. Front one worked, rear one did not. In
the link to the pix I sent earlier, the 1st pic is what I did to the
boot to keep it from leaking oil on my tire during the ride home.
Worked great! So, my question is, I plan to rip the rear apart to
replace the split boot with a solid original one. What else should
I check along the way, i.e., is there something that limits the
migration of gear oil out of the rear drive? I'm pretty sure that's
where the oil is coming from as the tranny oil level is perfect, but
the rear drive oil was a little bit low. Also, is there any special
tools needed to take the rear end apart to replace the boot? Keith
Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ |
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