Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing
Author: Robert Hawkes
Date: Jun 4, 2005, 7:11 AM
Post ID: 1718972621
AJ, Torque head nuts ONLY when valves are loose. After torquing head nuts,
then go ahead and adjust valve clearance. Do you want to talk on the phone
about this? No problem, Bob Hawkes
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Hawkes [mailto:3haw-@bluefrog.biz]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 9:54 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing
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AJ, no need to torque the valve adjuster nut. Just hold the tappet screw
with a needle nose plier and tighten the valve adjuster nut with an open end
wrench. You only need to torque the head nuts. Catch my drift? Bob Hawkes
-----Original Message-----
From: AJ Huff [mailto:ajh-@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2005 5:54 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Idle Speed, now valve spacing
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Have the right side done I think. Boy 0.15mm seems tight to me. I don't
have a tappet wrench so I held them with a small pair of vice grips
while I tightened the nut. Beyond me how you can use a torque wrench and
keep the tappet screw from turning at the same time.
Off to do the left side.
Thanks to everyone so far,
-AJ
Cam Conklin wrote:
|
AJ, Once you get the valves set prior to tightening, make sure you hold the adjuster pin in the same exact position when you tighten down the nut. They tend to move when you tighten, and it will throw off your valve clearances. Recheck it to make sure, if it changes loosten the nut and try again. As I recall, re-tourque the heads (BEFORE valves adjusted) to about 25-30 ft.lbs. Including the hex nut below the cap on top (12 O'clock). You need to remove the rocker arms to get to that one. Cam in NJ '74 Eldo Police |
AJ Huff
'71 Ambassador
Three Rivers, MI
MGNOC# 19917
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