Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2087

I have two questions: One is about the topica. I've tried to post a
few questions and only get a "message error" note. I clicked where it
said to and got some sort of automated response from the robot. Any
Ideas? Secondly, I am looking for a taillight for a 72 eldo. It seems
to be a two piece thingy- the mounting base and the round tail light.
MG Cycle has one that is chrome but I am wondering if anyone reading
this (You there!) might have one for sale at a price. This is not a
concourse restoration but if I could find one that is fairly correct
and that Tom Cruise wouldn't criticise too harshly, I would welcome it
into my garage lair with open arms. Thank you, Michael Ittner.
On Jul 19, 2005, at 3:55 AM, Loopfram-@topica.com wrote:

-- Topica Digest --

RE: rear drive question
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Syntec Oil, Fork Lock, Fuses, Choke,
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: motor skid plates
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Choke lever install, Fuses, lights controls
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

MID-OHIO
By coll-@rjrt.com

Twist Assist
By n0j-@hotmail.com

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 14:36:11 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: rear drive question

Hi Ray,

Unless you are referring to the level plug (and I don't think you are),
I've got no idea what hole to which you are referring. Email the pics
to:

greg @ thisoldtractor . com

Ray Hale wrote:

I installed the rear drive the other day and tonight I filled it with
fluid. The wheel is not on. I ate dinner and went back out to the shop
and the fluid is dripping on the floor under the back of the rear
drive.

Looking at it from the port side of the bike, with a light and
magnifier, I see where it's coming from. Yanked it off the swing arm
and

back on the bench, clean it up and look again. Picture this:
Looking at the rear drive from the backside, with the sump pointing
six
o'clock, there's a bolt at about 4 o'clock. Just below this bolt
there's

a deep recess with a tiny little hole at the top way down there and
that's where fluid is leaking from. Drip, drip, not pouring.

Is this normal? Will the rear drive leak if wheel is off? The whole
frame and powerplant is strapped to my lift and tilting downward at
the
rear, with the forks pointing upward, at about 10 degrees. Is this the
problem? What's the little hole for? It's not a mistake type hole, but
nicely manufactured into the drive. Very round and clean. I actually
have pictures that I took with my Micro-Nikkor on the digital through
a
magnifier light, if anyone wants to see. You'd have to send me your
email addy as I can't see it in Topica. Mr. Bender?? Anyone? Anyone?
(pointing at the blackboard)

Please advise as I'm balancing the wheels tomorrow and would dearly
love

to have a rolling chassis this weekend. It's a goal!
Thanks
Ray in Gainesville, FL
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Hello All...

1) Just wondering if it is OK to switch to synthetic oil for the
engine
and for the rear end ??? I've heard before that usually it is better
to

go Syntec, but that's more at the beginning of the engine's life and
if
(like mine) the engine had already runned 55K on the usuall oil it is
rather recommended to stay with the regular oil...

2) My fork lock is missing, does anyone knows where I can order one
that

will fit with keys ????

Ok, new question. I was sitting on the floor staring at the Eldo on
the
lift and noticed that the skid plates stick out an inch or so in the
back of the motor. Looks to me like a real pain in the tush for
getting
to the drain plug with anything less than a socket and an extension.
Also, the channels in the plates (or whatever you want to call them)
closest to the plug will surely fill up with oil as it drains making a
real mess. Any ideas here? Can they be mounted upside down to avoid
the
oil mess and can they be mounted backwards to keep the long end in the
front without interfering with anything up there? I'm writing this in
the house, of course, and may see the light when next I go out back to
the shop and stare again. Would love to hear ideas. Maybe I'll leave
them off. Don't plan on doing much curb or stump jumping with this
thing.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 15:03:40 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: Choke lever install, Fuses, lights controls

Hi Charles,

It is very simple to drill the look-alike choke lever. Just measure
carefully and then drill away. Alternatively, since it does not come
with a pin, you may be able to tighten it down sufficiently to not need
a pin (but I think it will probably always want to move on you). On my
Ambo, I drilled the hole and then fabricated a little washer/pin
mechanism that works quite well. If I had to do it over, though, I'd
simply JB Weld in a short length of steel rod to act as a pin.

A fuse box is critical if you want to avoid melting all sorts of
wiring,
etc. If you don't have fuses, and get a short, wires will melt and
catch
fire and throw sparks and do all sorts of nasty stuff. Even if you
don't
have the stock fuse box, you need to run the current through fuses. If
you don't believe me, get a 12 volt battery, and connect the positive
and negative terminals directly with 12 gauge wire. That accidentally
happened to me the other day when I was testing a light bulb...lot's of
excitement for a few seconds as I scrambled to unconnect my now-welded
leads and melted wires. :> I've been working with the Waytek company to
find a replacement fuse box that will fit in the headlight shell. I'm
still putting together the order, but will let everyone know if it
works
out. I think an old Volkswagen Beetle fuse box MAY fit in the headlight
shell. At least, that's what I've heard. I've never tried it, though.

As for a handlebar switch, I really like this one:
http://www.mgcycle.com/HANDLEBARSWITCHES.HTML
120030 KS left side switch - headlight on/off/park/hi/low, horn, flash,
push to cancel turn signals - $58.95

It is nowhere close to being stock, but is infinitely easier to use and
available at a very reasonable price. If you really want the pillbox
switches, call Mark Etheridge or keep a close eye on ebay for some
crusty ones you might be able to rebuild. Regardless of which switch
you
choose, I recommend using individual relays for the high and low beam
circuits (wiring diagrams for this are available in Guzziology and my
website).

Charles H wrote:

Oooopps Sorry did press something by accident on my PC and did not
mean

to split my message... Here are the rest of questions:

1) How difficult is it to install (drill) the look alike choke lever
that MG cycle sells ???

2) My Ambo came with some weird wiring, eventually I will have to redo
it... How important is it to have a fuse box, because I think the one
on my Ambo has been removed from the headlight shell... Maybe I am
looking in the wrong place, please let me know

3) I need some recommandation on what (& where to buy) I can use for
handlebar switches controls for my headlight and horn ??? My head +
Taillight are wired thru the key switch ignition...

Thanks again to all for your super helpful answers...

Cheers

Charles

Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2087

Author: Diane Brannick

Date: Jul 19, 2005, 7:59 PM

Post ID: 1719178384

Entire thread: