Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: 70 Ambo Progress and ?

Author: Greg Bender

Date: Aug 4, 2005, 4:47 AM

Post ID: 1719250814



Hi Keith,

You will need to remove the rockers, but the valves stay intact with the
head. Here's the drill:

Remove header pipes and carbs
Remove valve covers
Remove spark plug
Put cylinder at top dead center for the side you are doing
Remove 10mm nuts that hold the rocker shafts in place
Slide out the rocker shafts and remove the rockers
Remove the push rods
Remove the six "cylinder-stud" nuts that hold the head onto the cylinder
and block. The top one lives under a large bolt. Remove that bolt and
then you'll need an allen socket (or such) to get to it.
Remove head. Never pry, only smack solid surfaces with a rubber/dead
blow hammer to knock things loose.

I'm sure there are a couple of steps I've missed, but it is pretty
straight forward once you get in there. Just keep left/right cylinders
separate (not hard to do!) and intake/exhaust rockers/pushrods separate
(this isn't super critical since they *should* be identical in a perfect
world - but since parts get worn in differently, it's best to keep them
with each other).

BTW, if you haven't already got a copy of Guzziology, it is a really
good reference. Give Moto International a call and get one ordered. It
will save you lot's of time and frustration later. This would also be a
good time to order the special o-rings that Moto International sells for
the clutch pushrod (save on postage).

Keith K wrote:
 
Thanks Greg. I may end up doing that. But before ripping into her, i was

curious if there was an easier way. I'll take a look at your site as
well to gander at the tranny stuff. I am also going to be pulling the
ehads, which I assume I need to remove the rockers and valves prior to
pulling the cylinder loose to check on it? Or will that whole thing
unbolt and come off the piston as is? If so, I will be looking at the
nikasil sets from MG if need be. I was perusing the maintenence manual
and it looks like there is no oil filter except on the crank? I'm
learning much already about these old girls! How hard is it to yank the
engine apart and get it back together right? It doesn't look as bad as
others I have seen over the years.

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Keith,

Don't believe the lies about the four speed being a bear to rip into.
The Guzzi four and five speed transmssions are very similiar in their
design and extremely simple to understand and work on. There do exist
complicated transmissions in this world - but the Guzzi 4 and 5 speed
transmissions are not included on that list!

All you need is a clean workbench, a few basic tools and a couple of
"specialized" tools, and a little mechanical aptitude. If you have a
digital camera, that's helpful too - but certainly not critical. Have a
read through the articles on my site (and also the articles I link to on


the GuzziTech site that were written by Pete Roper). If you are going
this far, I would definitely take the time to shim up the transmission
properly, replace all of the seals and gaskets, and give it a general
inspection. Regardless of what Guzziology says, the four speed
functionality can be improved dramatically by this work. This is one of
very few things with which I disagree with Dave Richardson.

Charlie Mullendore wrote:
 
Hi Keith,

Keith K wrote:
What's the
 most efficent way to check for issues on the trans while it's off
without tearing it all apart? I hear the 4 speed is a real bear to rip
into.

You can bench test the trans. by turning the input hub and shifting it
through the gears. This will give you idea of how well it will work, but



isn't very definitive. Still lots of other things that could need
attention. You can check the neutral light in the same way - connect a
test light/continuity tester/multimeter to the stud of the neutral
switch and ground it on the trans. housing. Shift into first and back,
second and back and see if the light operates properly. If you found
condensation in the u/j boot, I'd pull the trans. rear cover off for a
look see. Could be rusted or pitted bearings, gear teeth, etc. from
sitting. Better safe than sorry in my opinion. Greg Bender has done a
few of the 4-speeds and has helpful insight from this on his website.

Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



New to Guzzis



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc

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