Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2119

Author: Diane Brannick

Date: Aug 17, 2005, 11:12 AM

Post ID: 1719310869



Does anyone have a used "Guzziology" they would like to sell?
Michael Ittner







On Aug 16, 2005, at 11:10 AM, Loopfram-@topica.com wrote:

 -- Topica Digest --

RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....
By kkurb-@aol.com

Switch on brake cable
By BGIL-@mitre.org

strange motor noises
By spaj-@raex.com

RE: PA Rally
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

Re: Distributor rebuild
By halc-@comcast.net

eldo 1000 cc big bore
By rapf-@aol.com

Re: Switch on brake cable
By paul-@comcast.net

Re: strange motor noises
By ju-@astrocomma.com

RE: Distributor rebuild
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Distributor rebuild
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Distributor rebuild
By BGIL-@mitre.org

RE: Distributor rebuild
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Hello!
By TSh-@phx.devry.edu

RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....
By JChic-@mestek.com

Re: eldo 1000 cc big bore
By paul-@comcast.net

RE: Distributor rebuild
By JChic-@mestek.com

Re: strange motor noises
By Rapf-@aol.com

Re: strange motor noises
By hox-@worldnet.att.net

Re: Hello!
By bobli-@gmail.com

RE: Hello!
By johnulri-@yahoo.com

Re: strange motor noises
By halc-@comcast.net

Re: Hello!
By paul-@comcast.net

Re: Distributor rebuild
By ju-@astrocomma.com

Re: advice...still have clutch woes
By gre-@gregfield.com

Re: Hello!
By halc-@comcast.net

Re: Hello!
By bobli-@gmail.com

RE: Hello!
By rich.-@acgov.org

Re: Hello!
By gcb-@neo.rr.com

Re: Hello!
By gcb-@neo.rr.com

Re: Hello!
By halc-@comcast.net

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:09:47 +0000
From: Keith K <kkurb-@aol.com>
Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....



The nuts were slaughtered when I had to cut them out. It's the threads
on the heads I am concerned about.

mjon-@yahoo.com wrote:
 
I can't tell you if your exhaust nuts are good or not,
but here's what I did to keep mine tight. Years ago
there was some discussion about safety-wiring the old
nut so that they don't loosen up. Someone chimed in
that he had used small springs instead of ssafety
wire, which has the advantage of easy removal (when
needed) and reuseability. I gave it a try and it works
great. Drill a small hole in each nut, and a small
hole in a cooling fin on each cylinder in the opposite
direction from which the nut must turn inorder to
loosen, and then put a spring between the two. Works
great.

-Mike (69 ambo, 77 vert)



M.Jones, associate editor, Journal for the Study of Religions and
Ideologies (http://hiphi.ubbcluj.ro/JSRI/)

"The heart has its reasons which reason does not know." -Blaise Pascal
"With man, instinct and reason avoid each other with adversity, yet,
by
repudiating each other they lure each other to reach mutual
correction."
-Lucian Blaga



____________________________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:45:10 -0400
From: "Giller,Bruce C." <BGIL-@mitre.org>
Subject: Switch on brake cable



This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=ISO-8859-1"us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light
switch
in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has
attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all
the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two
guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then
down
to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between the first
guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ?

My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between
the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the
switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the
amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ?

Bruce

'72 Eldo

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=us-ascii">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2>
My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light switch
in the
cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch has
attributed to
the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the
handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the
first
guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd
guide on the
fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the
lever. Is
this the typical setup ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial
size=2>My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit
between the
first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the
switch
unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the amount
of give in
the cable. Has anyone tried this ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial
size=2>Bruce</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT face=Arial
size=2>'72 Eldo</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A260.5729BE26--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:23:44 -0400
From: Prusnek <spaj-@raex.com>
Subject: strange motor noises



Ted:
Is it the tune from the Godfather? If so, you're in trouble. Otherwise,
it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak, I'd check around your
header nuts first.

John Prusnek
http://myweb.core.com/photos/spajohn@raex.com/MotoGuzziDecals

 A while ago my eldo began to make some strange high pitched
whistling noises. They go with the speed of the motor and are
really only audible at or near idle.
Any idea what that can be?

Ted Ward



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:30:39 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: PA Rally



ug, that is dissapointing...have you seen other's this way or is this a
one of a kind weak spot?

Charlie Mullendore wrote:
 
Hi Greg,
Yep, the reinforcement plates are there, but the crack is
semi-circular
following the curve of the tubular loop aft of the swingarm pivot.
Cracked right next to the weld holding the "ear" to the tubular loop.

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Charlie,

Sorry to hear of the cracking...always tough when you put that much
of
yourself into something. Out of curiousity, did you have the oval
shaped


reinforcement pieces installed behind the tab? If so, I'm really
surprised that it broke there.

Charlie Mullendore wrote:
 
Good to see a few folks from the list at the PA Rally over the
weekend.
Had a great time just chillin' and chattin', didn't ride much other
than



the 180 miles up and back. Good variety of Guzzis in attendance
including three Cal IIIs with full fairings and two SPIIIs. Don't
always



see those. I think Breva 750s outnumbered any other model!
Unfortunately, only two Loops were there - mine and Scott's from NJ.

Sophia ran perfectly in the 90 + degree heat, but I was suffering. I
suffered even worse when I arrived at the rally site and discovered
that



the tab where the passenger peg and muffler mounts on the right
side had



fractured. Broke clean off, hanging on by the Wixom 'bag mount only!
During the restoration, I had my brother weld up some cracks to that
area and it fractured right beside the weld. Guess I'll clean the
area,
have it welded and then paint it. Not going to repowder the whole
frame!



Plan to install rear crashbars to help conceal the area (and maybe
lend
some strength as well). Sophia continues to break my heart! Never
doing
a full restoration again, just too hard to take when something
happens
to it. :-(

Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Charlie
http://www.loopframeguzzi.com/



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:35:25 +0000
From: halc-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Distributor rebuild




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15345_1124199325_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Vince

Look on Greg Bender's site

www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

He probably has the info on there.

T

-------------- Original message --------------

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb7hDhIa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align
it
up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb7hDhIf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15345_1124199325_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>Vince</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Look on Greg Bender's site</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><A
href="http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender">www.thisoldtractor.com/
gtbender</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>He probably has the info on there.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>T</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_15345_1124199325_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:56:48 +0000
From: rick rappazo <rapf-@aol.com>
Subject: eldo 1000 cc big bore



Hi Anyone know if Cylinder Piston Kits for CX100 1000SP G5 Coni will
work on a eldo if i turn down the cylinders where they fit the block ?
will the pistons work ? thanks to all

rick


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:56:59 +0000
From: paul-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Switch on brake cable




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I have never had a problem with any of mine setup this way. My switch
was always located between the two trees. I would adjust the shoes so
they just barely make contact with the drum and then install the cable
and adjust it so you have the correct amount of free play. This way
when you pull the brake lever it will only travel maybe a half inch
before engaging the brake. Mine would almost throw you over the bars
if you were not careful. Now unless your cable has been stretched
somehow, I don't see how it could ever be soft if you adjust it this
way.

My 2 cents worth.

Paul

-------------- Original message --------------

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an inline brake light
switch in the cable. I've always believed that the give in the switch
has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the brake - I can pull the lever
all the way to the handle. The cable is routed from the lever thru
two guides: the first guide is on the left fork top clamp bolt and
then down to the 2nd guide on the fender. The switch unit is between
the first guide and the lever. Is this the typical setup ?

My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch unit between
the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the brake is used, the
switch unit will stop against the first guide which might reduce the
amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried this ?

Bruce

'72 Eldo
Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>I have never had a problem with any of mine setup this way. My
switch was always located between the two trees. I would adjust the
shoes so they just barely make contact with the drum and then install
the cable and adjust it so you have the correct amount of free play.
This way when you pull the brake lever it will only travel maybe a
half inch before engaging the brake. Mine would almost throw you over
the bars if you were not careful. Now unless your cable has been
stretched somehow, I don't see how it could ever be soft if you adjust
it this way.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>My 2 cents worth.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Paul</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:
#1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR><PRE>Your free
subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
<A
href="http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/Lottery">http://
click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltb6GIoLb/Lottery</A> Vault
-------------------------------------------------------------------
</PRE>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2> My Eldo has the 2-shoe front brake with an
inline brake light switch in the cable. I've always believed
that the give in the switch has attributed to the 'soft' feel of the
brake - I can pull the lever all the way to the handle. The
cable is routed from the lever thru two guides: the first guide is on
the left fork top clamp bolt and then down to the 2nd guide on the
fender. The switch unit is between the first guide and the
lever. Is this the typical setup ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT
face=Arial size=2>My thought was to re-route the cable with the switch
unit between the first guide and the 2nd guide. Thus when the
brake is used, the switch unit will stop against the first guide which
might reduce the amount of give in the cable. Has anyone tried
this ?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT
face=Arial size=2>Bruce</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005><FONT face=Arial
size=2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=991353512-16082005> <FONT
face=Arial size=2>'72 Eldo</FONT></SPAN></DIV><PRE>Your free
subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
<A
href="http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm">http://
click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6GIoLg/Nexiderm</A>
-------------------------------------------------------------------
</PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_25526_1124200619_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:10:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ted Ward <ju-@astrocomma.com>
Subject: Re: strange motor noises



Man if the Godfather has mechanics that could pull that off I
might have to join the organization. It's actually "The good the
bad and the ugly." so I think I'm safe.

But for the time being I'll look for an exhaust leak, thanks.

--- John Prusnek <spaj-@raex.com> wrote:
 
Ted:
Is it the tune from the Godfather? If so, you're in trouble.
Otherwise,
it sounds like you may have an exhaust leak, I'd check around
your
header nuts first.

John Prusnek
http://myweb.core.com/photos/spajohn@raex.com/MotoGuzziDecals

 A while ago my eldo began to make some strange high pitched
whistling noises. They go with the speed of the motor and are
really only audible at or near idle.
Any idea what that can be?

Ted Ward

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltbNPab1f/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 


Ted Ward


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:15:52 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild



Hi Vince,

In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well (I'm
summarizing here):

1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the
compression stroke. should be free play at both valves
2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock
3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and insert
the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed').
the
notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear
interfaces with the gear on the camshaft.

From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple
of
times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult.

lio-@aol.com wrote:
 
Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align
it

up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:21:09 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild



one other thing...

Since you have the distributor out, you might as well gap the points at
the workbench rather than at the bike (just a little easier). That way,
you'll only have to set the timing once the distributor is installed
(this is the way my brothers and I used to do it on the '61 beetle we
had during high school).

Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Vince,

In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well
(I'm
summarizing here):

1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the
compression stroke. should be free play at both valves
2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock
3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and
insert
the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed').
the

notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear
interfaces with the gear on the camshaft.

From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple
of

times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult.

lio-@aol.com wrote:
 
Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I
align it


up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:23:14 -0400
From: "Giller,Bruce C." <BGIL-@mitre.org>
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild



Greg,
My question is: can you get the distributor lock-down bolt to be
in the middle of the "clamping arc" on the distributor? My lock-down
bolt is always at the 'bottom' of the clamping arc no matter how I
inserted the distributor into the engine. Any hints???

Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Bender [mailto:gr-@thisoldtractor.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:16 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild


Hi Vince,

In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well (I'm
summarizing here):

1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the
compression stroke. should be free play at both valves
2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock
3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and insert
the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed').
the

notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear
interfaces with the gear on the camshaft.

From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple
of

times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult.

lio-@aol.com wrote:
 
Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align
it
 
up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:42:06 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild



Hi Bruce,

If you are always at one extreme, you ought to be able to remove the
distributor, rotate the shaft one direction or another, and then
reinsert...moving the gear on the distributor shaft 'over' one tooth on
the camshaft gear. It's a good idea to start at top dead center for a
reference point.

Giller,Bruce C. wrote:
 
Greg,
My question is: can you get the distributor lock-down bolt to be
in the middle of the "clamping arc" on the distributor? My lock-down
bolt is always at the 'bottom' of the clamping arc no matter how I
inserted the distributor into the engine. Any hints???

Bruce

-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Bender [mailto:gr-@thisoldtractor.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:16 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild


Hi Vince,

In Guzziology (section 6-17) Dave Richardson covers it pretty well
(I'm
summarizing here):

1. put left cylinder (number 2 cylinder) at top dead center on the
compression stroke. should be free play at both valves
2. keep the condensor at 9 o'clock
3. position the distributor shaft's upper notch at 5 o'clock and
insert
the distributor (this is the notch into which the rotor is 'keyed').
the

notch should rotate to about 6 o'clock as the distributor gear
interfaces with the gear on the camshaft.

From there, time the points as usual. You may need to try it a couple
of

times before getting it right (as I did), but it isn't too difficult.

lio-@aol.com wrote:
 
Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align
it
 
up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:45:29 +0000
From: tom short <TSh-@phx.devry.edu>
Subject: RE: Hello!




bob wrote:
 
I've been told by about 20 people that I need to get myself on this
list.

Welcome!!!
 
Here's the short version of the story. I've got a V7. > It belongs
to
my father in law. He told me, "it's yours if you want
it!" I wanted it. It's mine.

Bob,

You are one luck-y guy! I have a V700 also, 1968. I did notice a few
nice things about your bike.

*It has great mufflers!
*It has square slide carbs. The originals were prone to ignite the
bikes
into rolling fire balls.
*Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum.

You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er
going!!

Now, we have to give her a name...



The Arizona Kid
LFL 009

Tom Short
AZ MGNOC Rep
Phoenix, AZ


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:52:11 -0400
From: "John Chicoine" <JChic-@mestek.com>
Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....



This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Yes I do. Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing
arm and triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include
shipping.



John



________________________________

From: thomas halchuk [mailto:halc-@comcast.net]
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 3:53 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....



Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------

So John



Do you any more tools for sale?



T



Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!
No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval
Cash in you account Overnight!
http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml"
xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"
xmlns:w="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word"
xmlns:st1="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"
xmlns="http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40">

<head>
<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=us-ascii">
<meta name=Generator content="Microsoft Word 11 (filtered medium)">
<!--[if !mso]>
<style>
v:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
</style>
<![endif]--><o:SmartTagType
namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"
name="PersonName"/>
<!--[if !mso]>
<style>
st1:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
</style>
<![endif]-->
<style>
<!--
/* Font Definitions */
@font-face
{font-family:Tahoma;
panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
/* Style Definitions */
p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:12.0pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";}
a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:blue;
text-decoration:underline;}
pre
{margin:0in;
margin-bottom:.0001pt;
font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Courier New";}
span.EmailStyle18
{mso-style-type:personal-reply;
font-family:Arial;
color:navy;}
@page Section1
{size:8.5in 11.0in;
margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
div.Section1
{page:Section1;}
-->
</style>

</head>

<body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=blue>

<div class=Section1>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>Yes I do. Super Spanners
are $45. The
double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are $55.
All three are
$90. Prices include shipping.<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></
p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'>John<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=2 color=navy face=Arial><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:navy'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></
p>

<div>

<div class=MsoNormal align=center style='text-align:center'><font
size=3
face="Times New Roman"><span style='font-size:12.0pt'>

<hr size=2 width="100%" align=center tabindex=-1>

</span></font></div>

<p class=MsoNormal><b><font size=2 face=Tahoma><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Tahoma;font-weight:bold'>From:</span></font></b><font
size=2
face=Tahoma><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma'> thomas
halchuk
[mailto:halc-@comcast.net] <br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Monday, August 15,
2005 3:53
PM<br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> <st1:PersonName
w:st="on">Loopfram-@topica.com</st1:PersonName><br>
<b><span style='font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> RE: Finally,
Exhaust Nuts
out, but....</span></font><o:p></o:p></p>

</div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'><o:p> </o:p></span></font></p>

<pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt'>Your free subscription is supported by
today's sponsor:<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt'>---------------------------------------------------------------
----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Erase
wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm
SP.<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Nexiderm SP
is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>here to get
your 30-day free supply.<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'><a
href="http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm">http://
click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTb/Nexiderm</a><o:p></o:p></span></
font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt'>---------------------------------------------------------------
----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'>So John<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Do you any more tools for sale?<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'>T<o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<div>

<p class=MsoNormal><font size=3 face="Times New Roman"><span
style='font-size:
12.0pt'> <o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

<pre><font size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:10.0pt'>Your free subscription is supported by
today's sponsor:<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt'>---------------------------------------------------------------
----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Need
Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!
<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>No Credit
Checks, Easy & Fast Approval
<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'>Cash in you
account Overnight!<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span style='font-size:10.0pt'><a
href="http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/
911PaydayAdvance">http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltbN7eKTg/
911PaydayAdvance</a><o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font
size=2 face="Courier New"><span
style='font-size:
10.0pt'>---------------------------------------------------------------
----<o:p></o:p></span></font></pre><pre><font

</body>

</html>

------_=_NextPart_001_01C5A269.B33BAE03--



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 14:00:37 +0000
From: paul-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: eldo 1000 cc big bore




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7821_1124200837_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Yes. They will work.

Paul

-------------- Original message --------------

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Anyone know if Cylinder Piston Kits for CX100 1000SP G5 Coni will
work on a eldo if i turn down the cylinders where they fit the block ?
will the pistons work ? thanks to all

rick

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate?
Take our Nationwide Chocolate Survey today!
Receive a FREE* $100 restaurant gift card of your choice or $100
worth Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOv3b1dfltb6GIoLf/ChocolateSurvey
-------------------------------------------------------------------
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7821_1124200837_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>Yes. They will work.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Paul</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_7821_1124200837_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:18:33 -0400
From: "John Chicoine" <JChic-@mestek.com>
Subject: RE: Distributor rebuild



Take a picture of the rotor position b4 you pull the dist. When you
reinstall it make sure the rotor is in the same position.

John C.

-----Original Message-----
From: lio-@aol.com [mailto:lio-@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 10:42 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Distributor rebuild

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltbN7eKTa/LotteryVault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure I align
it

up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbN7eKTf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------






------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 08:11:11 EDT
From: Rapf-@aol.com
Subject: Re: strange motor noises




-------------------------------1124194271
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi Ted , Any chance its coming out of your generator. Rick

-------------------------------1124194271
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000;
FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT
id=role_document
face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Hi Ted , Any chance its coming out of your generator.
Rick</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

-------------------------------1124194271--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:58:35 -0500
From: "George Hoxie" <hox-@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: strange motor noises




intake leak


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Ward" <ju-@astrocomma.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2005 9:21 PM
Subject: strange motor noises


Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltbNWikma/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

A while ago my eldo began to make some strange high pitched
whistling noises. They go with the speed of the motor and are
really only audible at or near idle.
Any idea what that can be?

Ted Ward

Ted Ward

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate?
Take our Nationwide Chocolate Survey today!
Receive a FREE* $100 restaurant gift card of your choice or $100
worth Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOv3b1dfltbNWikmf/ChocolateSurvey
-------------------------------------------------------------------




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 11:02:15 -0500
From: bob <bobli-@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hello!



Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions.

Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's
been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the
way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get
the bike out this season.

My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in
order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the
cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it
over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at
it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it?

As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm)
and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the
chrome. Am I on the right track?

One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back
together) I'm thinking that these
(http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice?

 Tom Short wrote:
*It has great mufflers!

I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal
is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the
finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a
vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do
what I can to shine those suckers up!

 *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum.

I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer!

 You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er
going!!

I'm going to hold you to that!!

 Now, we have to give her a name...

I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:11:23 +0000
From: John Ulrich <johnulri-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Hello!




bob wrote:
 How/Where do I start this project? My gut feel is to strip
everything off the bike that I possibly can in
order to get it as clean as possible.

-Digital camera, lots of memory.
-Legal Pad to draw out diagrams of attachment
-Masking tape and fine tip premanent marker to label the ends of all
removed electrical connections.
-Baggies to place all nuts & bolts.
-Boxes to store the various sub assemblies in...ie starter, generator.

No such thing as too many pictures when you go to reassemble it.

Later,
JU


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:36:05 +0000
From: halc-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: strange motor noises




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16064_1124199365_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Vacuum leak?

-------------- Original message --------------

 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb7hDhIa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

A while ago my eldo began to make some strange high pitched
whistling noises. They go with the speed of the motor and are
really only audible at or near idle.
Any idea what that can be?

Ted Ward

Ted Ward

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate?
Take our Nationwide Chocolate Survey today!
Receive a FREE* $100 restaurant gift card of your choice or $100
worth Hershey's®or Ghirardelli®Chocolate for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOv3b1dfltb7hDhIf/ChocolateSurvey
-------------------------------------------------------------------
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16064_1124199365_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>Vacuum leak?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_16064_1124199365_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:11:29 +0000
From: paul-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Hello!




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14026_1124208689_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

The first thing to do is get a big enough space to put all the parts
you take off. Preferably somwhere where nothing will get damaged.
Second, get out your digital camera and take lots of pictures of the
dissasembly so that you can reference them when you re-assemble. Yes
opening the cylinders to check for chrome peeling is VERY advisable.
If you feel the motor needs to be cleaned, then now is the time to go
ahead and pull it from the frame and scrub every nook and cranny. Same
goes for the tranny and rear drive. The stainless kits are excellent
and will really make the bike look good. I have used them on both of
my Eldorados. Just take your time and it will turn out great.

Paul

-------------- Original message --------------

 Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions.

Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's
been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the
way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get
the bike out this season.

My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in
order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the
cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it
over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at
it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it?

As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/
Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm)
and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the
chrome. Am I on the right track?

One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back
together) I'm thinking that these
(http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice?

 Tom Short wrote:
*It has great mufflers!

I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal
is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the
finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a
vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do
what I can to shine those suckers up!

 *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum.

I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer!

 You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er
going!!

I'm going to hold you to that!!

 Now, we have to give her a name...

I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come.
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14026_1124208689_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>The first thing to do is get a big enough space to put all the
parts you take off. Preferably somwhere where nothing will get
damaged. Second, get out your digital camera and take lots
of pictures of the dissasembly so that you can reference them when you
re-assemble. Yes opening the cylinders to check for chrome peeling is
VERY advisable. If you feel the motor needs to be cleaned, then now is
the time to go ahead and pull it from the frame and scrub every nook
and cranny. Same goes for the tranny and rear drive. The stainless
kits are excellent and will really make the bike look good. I have
used them on both of my Eldorados. Just take your time and it will
turn out great.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Paul</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:
#1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message --------------
<BR><BR>> Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb
questions. <BR>> <BR>> Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start
this project? The bike's <BR>> been dusted off, I've got me
reference materials (Guzziology is on the <BR>> way), and I'm
excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get <BR>> the
bike out this season. <BR>> <BR>> My gut feel is to strip
everything off the bike that I possibly can in <BR>> order to get
it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the <BR>>
cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it
<BR>> over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while
I'm at <BR>> it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it?
<BR>> <BR>> As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this
<BR>>
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/
Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm) <BR>> and thinking that I'd be able
to do the same thing to inspect the <BR>> chrome. Am I on the right
track? <BR>> <BR>> One last thing... while I'm taking things
apart (or putting it back <BR>> together) I'm thinking that these
<BR>> (http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
<BR>> have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any
advice? <BR>> <BR>> > Tom Short wrote: <BR>> > *It has
great mufflers! <BR>> <BR>> I've looked them over quite a few
times. It seems like all the metal <BR>> is there and there's no
real bad spots... but... what to do about the <BR>> finish? I'm
really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a <BR>>
vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do
<BR>> what I can to shine those suckers up! <BR>> <BR>> >
*Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum. <BR>>
<BR>> I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive
answer! <BR>> <BR>> > You got a great little bike, and we're
going to help you get 'er going!! <BR>> <BR>> I'm going to hold
you to that!! <BR>> <BR>> > Now, we have to give her a
name... <BR>> <BR>> I can't name her till I've spent some more
time with her. It'll come. </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_14026_1124208689_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 07:08:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ted Ward <ju-@astrocomma.com>
Subject: Re: Distributor rebuild



Vince. Someone on this list helped me with the same problem.
What you do is take a cylinder, say the left cylinder (2??) this
cylinder fires from the outermost plugwire from the distributor
so make sure the piston is at TDC of its compression stroke
(right about the time the spark plug should fire) and put the
distributor in so that the tip of the rotor is just about to
cross the contact for that plug wire.

Makes sense when you think about it. You might have to pull the
distributor loose and move it one notch forward or backwards but
you should be close.

Ted Ward

--- lio-@aol.com wrote:

 Got all my new parts together and am getting ready to rebuild
the
distributor. Can someone on the list tell me how to make sure
I align it
up properly when I reinstall the unit. Seems that if I'm off
by a few
degrees the timing will be all messed up. I know that trial
and error
will help , but I thought there might be an easy way to get it
right
first time.
Vince in NY
BTW are there any NYC GUZZISTI out there who might be
interested in
getting together some Sunday morning for a ride?


Ted Ward


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 09:51:23 -0700
From: Greg Field <gre-@gregfield.com>
Subject: Re: advice...still have clutch woes




--Apple-Mail-18--125004774
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=ISO-8859-1;
format=flowed

You'll need to tear it down to lube the spline on the tranny input
hub, or drill a hole in the bellhousing so you can lube it externally.

It could alo be that the plate is shot. Did you get the sintered or
organic plate?

GF

 Cable is lubed, no kinks....sometimes, when I pull in the clutch to
down shift, it takes a while for it to actually engage. Not always,
but I'd say 25% of the time, this occurs. I've tried about four
billion different adjustments, to no avail. Weird, I have no idea.
Anybody else ever have this happen? Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill

73 Bronze Eldo

-------------- Original message from greg hopkins
<guzzig-@yahoo.com>: --------------

Grease the cable and inspect for kinks first. Greg '74 Police Eldo

bluezi-@att.net wrote:

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Is your computer freezing up or slowing down?
Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC
Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuab1dfltb7eWj3b/PCPowerScan
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Guys!
I replaced my clutch with a RAM last winter, and now
it's started acting a bit strange. When sailing down the road and I
pull in the clutch to downshift, there is a hesitation before the
clutch engages.....is this what happens when a throwout bearing is
worn out? It looked great when I had it apart 9 months ago, do they
go bad that fast? Is it something else?.....HELP!!!
Bill
73 Bronze Eldo

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!
No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval
Cash in you account Overnight!
http://click.topica.com/caadOurb1dfltb7eWj3g/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Is your computer freezing up or slowing down?
Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC
Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuab1dfltb6KFeCg/PCPowerScan
-------------------------------------------------------------------

--Apple-Mail-18--125004774
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Content-Type: text/enriched;
charset=ISO-8859-1

You'll need to tear it down to lube the spline on the tranny input
hub, or drill a hole in the bellhousing so you can lube it externally.


It could alo be that the plate is shot. Did you get the sintered or
organic plate?


GF


<excerpt>Cable is lubed, no kinks....sometimes, when I pull in the
clutch to down shift, it takes a while for it to actually engage.=A0
Not
always, but I'd say 25% of the time, this occurs.=A0 I've tried about
four billion different adjustments, to no avail.=A0 Weird, I have no
idea.=A0 Anybody else ever have this happen?=A0 Any suggestions would
be
greatly appreciated.


Thanks,


Bill


73 Bronze Eldo


-------------- Original message from greg hopkins
<<guzzig-@yahoo.com>: --------------


Grease the cable and inspect for kinks first. Greg '74 Police Eldo


<bold><italic>bluezi-@att.net</italic></bold> wrote:


<fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Is your computer freezing up or slowing down?

Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC

Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!

 <underline><color><param>1999,1999,FFFF</param>http://
click.topica.com/caa> dOuab1dfltb7eWj3b/PC</color></underline>
PowerScan

-------------------------------------------------------------------

</bigger></fixed>

Hi Guys!

=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0I replaced my clutch with a RAM last winter, and now
it's=A0started=A0acting a bit strange.=A0 When sailing down the road
and > I
pull in the clutch to downshift, there is a hesitation before the
clutch engages.....is this what happens when a throwout bearing is
worn out?=A0 It looked great when I had it apart 9 months ago, do they
go bad that fast?=A0 Is it something else?.....HELP!!!

Bill

73 Bronze Eldo


<fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Need Emergency Cash? Get Up To $500 Now!=20

No Credit Checks, Easy & Fast Approval=20

Cash in you account Overnight!

 <underline><color><param>1999,1999,FFFF</param>http://
click.topica.com/caa> dOurb1dfltb7eWj3g/911PaydayAdvance</color></underline>

-------------------------------------------------------------------

</bigger></fixed>

__________________________________________________

Do You Yahoo!?

Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

http://mail.yahoo.com


<fixed><bigger>Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Is your computer freezing up or slowing down?

Repair corrupt files and harmful errors - protect your PC

Take a 2-minute PC health check-up at no charge!

 <underline><color><param>1999,1999,FFFF</param>http://
click.topica.com/caa> dOuab1dfltb6KFeCg/PC</color></underline>
PowerScan

-------------------------------------------------------------------

</bigger></fixed>

 r></fixed>


</excerpt>>
--Apple-Mail-18--125004774--



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 16:59:48 +0000
From: halc-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Hello!




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3856_1124211588_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

Here are some random thoughts on the rebuild question:

This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself.

How much do you want to $pend?
How much time do you have?

What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned?
show bike, custom, stock?

So now you have decided to "clean it up". And you pulling the
motor/trans.

It has been sitting for 10 yrs. Chrome is porous and corrodes very
quickly. 90% chance the cylinder walls are pitted.
Guzzi used natural rubber products. So most of the rubber is cracked,
dried up.
Pistons & cylinders and gaskets - $700
Head work - $100-200
Rear engine & trans seals - $20 (4 hrs in -4 hrs out) most likely
needed.
Rear end seals and drive shaft boot - $60
clutch and clutch spline - $250 ( as long as you are there.) may not
be needed
battery - $25-125
air filter - ??
drain all fluids ( forks, rear end, engine) $25
carbs clean & rebuild -$50-70
gas tank sealer - $50
petcock seals - $10
cables - $100
Tires - $200
Electrical - ???

But the good thing is the bike was free. The paint looks great. I
didn't see any rust anywhere.

A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome.
If the cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it.
Why fix something that isn't broken (yet)

Whatever you decide to do it will be fun. John Chicoine has a tool
kit he has made to work on loops, MG Cycle has some special tools
made by Steve Brenton also available. I have a set. If you are serious
about rebuilding this bike you'll need some of the tools.

Slotted socket for crank nut - MG - Cycle
Front fork tools - MG Cycle

John Chiccoine has some tools
Super Spanners are $45. The double wrench set for the swing arm and
triple trees are $55. All three are $90. Prices include shipping.
John

-------------- Original message --------------

 Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions.

Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's
been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the
way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get
the bike out this season.

My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in
order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the
cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it
over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at
it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it?

As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/
Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm)
and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the
chrome. Am I on the right track?

One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back
together) I'm thinking that these
(http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice?

 Tom Short wrote:
*It has great mufflers!

I've looked them over quite a few times. It seems like all the metal
is there and there's no real bad spots... but... what to do about the
finish? I'm really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a
vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do
what I can to shine those suckers up!

 *Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum.

I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive answer!

 You got a great little bike, and we're going to help you get 'er
going!!

I'm going to hold you to that!!

 Now, we have to give her a name...

I can't name her till I've spent some more time with her. It'll come.
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3856_1124211588_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV>Here are some random thoughts on the rebuild question:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask
yourself.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>How much do you want to $pend?</DIV>
<DIV>How much time do you have?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is
concerned? show bike, custom, stock?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>So now you have decided to "clean it up". And you pulling
the motor/trans.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>It has been sitting for 10 yrs. Chrome is porous and
corrodes very quickly. 90% chance the cylinder walls are
pitted. </DIV>
<DIV>Guzzi used natural rubber products. So most of the rubber
is cracked, dried up.</DIV>
<DIV>Pistons & cylinders and gaskets - $700</DIV>
<DIV>Head work - $100-200</DIV>
<DIV>Rear engine & trans seals - $20 (4 hrs in -4 hrs out) most
likely needed.</DIV>
<DIV>Rear end seals and drive shaft boot - $60</DIV>
<DIV>clutch and clutch spline - $250 ( as long as you are
there.) may not be needed</DIV>
<DIV>battery - $25-125</DIV>
<DIV>air filter - ??</DIV>
<DIV>drain all fluids ( forks, rear end, engine) $25</DIV>
<DIV>carbs clean & rebuild -$50-70 </DIV>
<DIV>gas tank sealer - $50</DIV>
<DIV>petcock seals - $10</DIV>
<DIV>cables - $100</DIV>
<DIV>Tires - $200</DIV>
<DIV>Electrical - ???</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>But the good thing is the bike was free. The paint looks
great. I didn't see any rust anywhere.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of
chrome. If the cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and
start it. Why fix something that isn't broken (yet)</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Whatever you decide to do it will be fun. John Chicoine has
a tool kit he has made to work on loops, MG Cycle has some
special tools made by Steve Brenton also available. I have a set.
If you are serious about rebuilding this bike you'll need some of
the tools.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Slotted socket for crank nut - MG - Cycle</DIV>
<DIV>Front fork tools - MG Cycle</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> John Chiccoine has some tools
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns =
"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"
/><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt;
COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"> Super Spanners are $45.
The double wrench set for the swing arm and triple trees are
$55. All three are $90. Prices include
shipping.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial">John<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY:
Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>-------------- Original message -------------- <BR><BR>>
Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions.
<BR>> <BR>> Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this
project? The bike's <BR>> been dusted off, I've got me reference
materials (Guzziology is on the <BR>> way), and I'm excited to
start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get <BR>> the bike out this
season. <BR>> <BR>> My gut feel is to strip everything off the
bike that I possibly can in <BR>> order to get it as clean as
possible. I've been told to open up the <BR>> cylinders and check
the chrome before I even think about turning it <BR>> over. Does it
make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at <BR>> it and
give it a good cleaning while I'm at it? <BR>> <BR>> As silly as
the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this <BR>>
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/
Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm) <BR>> and thinking that I'd be able
to do the same thing to inspect the <BR>> chrome. Am I on the right
track? <BR>> <BR>> One last thing... while I'm taking things
apart (or putting it back <BR>> together) I'm thinking that these
<BR>> (http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
<BR>> have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any
advice? <BR>> <BR>> > Tom Short wrote: <BR>> > *It has
great mufflers! <BR>> <BR>> I've looked them over quite a few
times. It seems like all the metal <BR>> is there and there's no
real bad spots... but... what to do about the <BR>> finish? I'm
really warming up to the idea of leaving the bike with a <BR>>
vintage look rather than a showroom floor look... but, I'd like to do
<BR>> what I can to shine those suckers up! <BR>> <BR>> >
*Those reflectors do not belong down on the front brake drum. <BR>>
<BR>> I was *just* going to ask that. Thanks for the pre-emptive
answer! <BR>> <BR>> > You got a great little bike, and we're
going to help you get 'er going!! <BR>> <BR>> I'm going to hold
you to that!! <BR>> <BR>> > Now, we have to give her a
name... <BR>> <BR>> I can't name her till I've spent some more
time with her. It'll come. </DIV></DIV></body></html>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_3856_1124211588_0--


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 12:31:50 -0500
From: bob <bobli-@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hello!



 This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself.
=20
How much do you want to $pend?

Without getting too specific... I've been saving for a bike for a few
years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had the cash to pay for it up
front. So, I'm in an interesting situation where I've already got a
sizeable chunk of cash that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this
bike found me, I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend
my money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom
floor.

I was mentally prepared to spend $7k on a used sporty for a project
bike... the same class-less and generic bike that everyone else is
riding around. Now I'm thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for
$7k!?!?!"

 How much time do you have?

I'm hoping to supplant a different and less productive hobby with this
one. If I can pull it off, I'll have a fair amount of time. I'm not
even entertaining the thought that I'll get the bike running this
season. That gives me a very long and cold Minnesota winter to work
on it. If I could idle it in the garage over the winter, I'd be
happy. If I could tool around the neighborhood in the spring, I'd be
in heaven.

 What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned?
sho> w
bike, custom, stock?

I'd like it to look like a very old bike that's been very well taken
care of. I don't want shiny new paint or a "right off the showroom
floor" look. I like the fact that the bike *looks* like it's been
around for a while, but, I don't want it to look like a bike that's
been in a shed for 10 years.

 A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome.
If t> he
cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it. Why
fix
something that isn't broken (yet)

I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too
wrench-happy. I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed
with it. That way when I'm putting it back together I can at least
know, "well, it worked before I messed with it!"

Tonight I work late... Wednesday is a trip to the store for battery
and oi> l.

-- Bob


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 10:41:48 -0700
From: "Zink, Rich, ITD" <rich.-@acgov.org>
Subject: RE: Hello!



In one of my rare responses, I have to totally agree with this
philosophy. I have had/seen too many projects start off by complete
disassembly only to spend years in boxes afterward due to loss of
momentum.

Rich

-----Original Message-----
From: bob [mailto:bobli-@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:32 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Hello!

 A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome.
If the cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it.

 Why fix something that isn't broken (yet)

I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too wrench-happy.
I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed with it. That
way
when I'm putting it back together I can at least know, "well, it worked
before I messed with it!"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:41:33 -0400
From: Greg Barratt <gcb-@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Hello!




 Thanks everyone for the responses. Now I've got some dumb questions.

Here's the biggest: How/Where do I start this project? The bike's
been dusted off, I've got me reference materials (Guzziology is on the
way), and I'm excited to start. First off: I'm not in a hurry to get
the bike out this season.
lots of space, lots digital pictures, as everyone has said is a must.
this bike will explode into a room about 20' x20' easy.

 My gut feel is to strip everything off the bike that I possibly can in
order to get it as clean as possible. I've been told to open up the
cylinders and check the chrome before I even think about turning it
over. Does it make any sense at all to pull the engine while I'm at
it and give it a good cleaning while I'm at it?
most likely the rear main seal is bad. pulling the motor would be a
good idea. you'll need to fab a puller to pull the rear crank cover.
you'll also need a way to remove clutch.. when you get to this point, a
lot of people will chime in with advice..


 As silly as the walkthrough is, I'm looking at this
(http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/
Big_Daddys_Top_End_Rebuild.htm)
and thinking that I'd be able to do the same thing to inspect the
chrome. Am I on the right track?
yes, it's very simple to pull the cylinders. you can do it with the
motor still in the frame, and it does make the motor lighter and easier
to handle when you want to pull out motor. keep in mind, you will have
to remove the entire rear rear drive, swingarm (special tool - i use
heavy duty snap ring pliers ground down to turn the swingarm bolts),
and tranny, and rear fender, and battery tray , to get motor out (the 4
speed box is a tighter fit than a 5 speed box..)

 One last thing... while I'm taking things apart (or putting it back
together) I'm thinking that these
(http://www.stainlesscycle.com/loop.html) would be nice to
have. Anyone have any experience with this set and have any advice?
welp, i'm kinda biased!....it does make basket case restores go really
quick - no more searching for bolts..i've built several loops using the
kit, and it works quite well.


definitely order a gasket kit, and orings for cylinders. you'll need
to
replace a lot of seals, they're all listed at greg bender's site (
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm) - the site has
just about everything you could need. you'll also need to replace
hoses,
and probably plug wires/ends

make sure you have a parts book, and a service manual, and put joe
eish,
mark etheridge (moto guzzi classics) , and mgcycle's number in your
phone book. they're all good sources for parts.

there is very little not available for a v700, the only real pricey and
difficult to find cosmetics are the dash and instrument cluster.

if you take your time and build it right, you've got one of the most
durable and long lasting bikes out there....many loopframe guys with
100k - 200k miles bikes..




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 13:47:14 -0400
From: Greg Barratt <gcb-@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Hello!



i'd figure a decent rebuild of a bike in that condition, without doing
any cosmetics at $1200-$1500 or so. plus a lot of hours. do it right
the
first time. you are not gonna want to pull the motor again because the
rear seal/tranny is leaking. do it right once, and it will last a very
long time. do it wrong once and you'll tear it apart sooner than you
think.

 Without getting too specific... I've been saving for a bike for a few
years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had the cash to pay for it up
front. So, I'm in an interesting situation where I've already got a
sizeable chunk of cash that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this
bike found me, I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend
my money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom
floor.

I was mentally prepared to spend $7k on a used sporty for a project
bike... the same class-less and generic bike that everyone else is
riding around. Now I'm thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for
$7k!?!?!"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2005 17:44:46 +0000
From: halc-@comcast.net
Subject: Re: Hello!




--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_10670_1124214286_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit


If you put 2K into this one, you can pick up another Guzzi this winter!
-------------- Original message --------------

 
 This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask yourself.

How much do you want to $pend?

Without getting too specific... I've been saving for a bike for a few
years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had the cash to pay for it up
front. So, I'm in an interesting situation where I've already got a
sizeable chunk of cash that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this
bike found me, I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend
my money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom
floor.

I was mentally prepared to spend $7k on a used sporty for a project
bike... the same class-less and generic bike that everyone else is
riding around. Now I'm thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for
$7k!?!?!"

 How much time do you have?

I'm hoping to supplant a different and less productive hobby with this
one. If I can pull it off, I'll have a fair amount of time. I'm not
even entertaining the thought that I'll get the bike running this
season. That gives me a very long and cold Minnesota winter to work
on it. If I could idle it in the garage over the winter, I'd be
happy. If I could tool around the neighborhood in the spring, I'd be
in heaven.

 What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike is concerned?
show
bike, custom, stock?

I'd like it to look like a very old bike that's been very well taken
care of. I don't want shiny new paint or a "right off the showroom
floor" look. I like the fact that the bike *looks* like it's been
around for a while, but, I don't want it to look like a bike that's
been in a shed for 10 years.

 A few of us the list would check the cylinders for flakes of chrome.
If the
cylinders are acceptable, change the oil, wash it and start it. Why
fix
something that isn't broken (yet)

I think maybe I should do this before I start getting too
wrench-happy. I want to get an idea of how it was *before* I messed
with it. That way when I'm putting it back together I can at least
know, "well, it worked before I messed with it!"

Tonight I work late... Wednesday is a trip to the store for battery
and oil.

-- Bob
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_10670_1124214286_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html><body>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>If you put 2K into this one, you can pick up another
Guzzi this winter!</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT:
#1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message --------------
<BR><BR>> > This is a huge project. A couple of question to ask
yourself. <BR>> > <BR>> > How much do you want to $pend?
<BR>> <BR>> Without getting too specific... I've been saving for
a bike for a few <BR>> years, I wasn't going to buy one until I had
the cash to pay for it up <BR>> front. So, I'm in an interesting
situation where I've already got a <BR>> sizeable chunk of cash
that's been earmarked for a bike. Since this <BR>> bike found me,
I'm a bit surprised at myself that I was ready to spend <BR>> my
money on a bike that just about anyone can buy off the showroom
<BR>> floor. <BR>> <BR>> I was mentally prepared to spend $7k
on a used sporty for a project <BR>> bike... the same class-less
and generic bike that everyone else is <BR>> riding around. Now I'm
thinking, "what can I do to my Guzzi for <BR>> $7k!?!?!" <BR>>
<BR>> > How much time do you have? <BR>> <BR>> I'm hoping
to supplant a different and less productive hobby with this <BR>>
one. If I can pull it off, I'll have a fair amount of time. I'm not
<BR>> even entertaining the thought that I'll get the bike running
this <BR>> season. That gives me a very long and cold Minnesota
winter to work <BR>> on it. If I could idle it in the garage over
the winter, I'd be <BR>> happy. If I could tool around the
neighborhood in the spring, I'd be <BR>> in heaven. <BR>>
<BR>> > What do you want to get out of this as far as the bike
is concerned? show <BR>> > bike, custom, stock? <BR>>
<BR>> I'd like it to look like a very old bike that's been very
well taken <BR>> care of. I don't want shiny new paint or a "right
off the showroom <BR>> floor" look. I like the fact that the bike
*looks* like it's been <BR>> around for a while, but, I don't want
it to look like a bike that's <BR>> been in a shed for 10 years.
<BR>> <BR>> > A few of us the list would check the cylinders
for flakes of chrome. If the <BR>> > cylinders are acceptable,
change the oil, wash it and start it. Why fix <BR>> > something
that isn't broken (yet) <BR>> <BR>> I think maybe I should do
this before I start getting too <BR>> wrench-happy. I want to get
an idea of how it was *before* I messed <BR>> with it. That way
when I'm putting it back together I can at least <BR>> know, "well,
it worked before I messed with it!" <BR>> <BR>> Tonight I work
late... Wednesday is a trip to the store for battery and oil. <BR>>
<BR>> -- Bob </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>

--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_10670_1124214286_0--


------------------------------

End of Loopfram-@topica.com digest, issue 2119

Entire thread: