Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: 69/70 ambo project fun

Author: Zerhackermann

Date: Mar 5, 2002, 12:35 PM

Post ID: 1709783103


Basically you take a plastic tub and mix in a tablespoon of lye to 1
gal. of water (add lye to water not the other way around, wear goggles
and gloves) connect you battery charger to the rusty bit and a solid
steel object. Submerge both. Set them close together but *not* touching.
Turn on the charger. It should bubble something like alka-seltzer. I had
to crank up to the starting cycle for a few seconds and then down to the
12 volt 10 amp cycle to get it started. Let it sit for a couple hours.
Kill the charger, scrub the part with a wire brush and repeat. Often
rotating the part because only the side nearest the steel rod get
worked. I was too cautious to let the stuff sit running over night. I
would only do it when I was in the shop doing other things. Took about a
half dozen sessions to get the tail light mount clean enough to finish
with a scrub pad. Doesn't add any metal, but it does remove the rust.

I'm trying to find the original document.

Probably not worth the effort on bolts and nuts or chromed parts.

Attempt at your own risk. This does involve harsh chemicals,
electricity.


-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Berry [mailto:guzzis-@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 11:22 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: 69/70 ambo project fun


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What is this method? I'd like to know...got lots of rusty bolts and
pieces that need restoring. Chris in Nc

.... If you find a badly rusted bit, don't toss it, I found
 a cool recovery method. Doesn't replace the rusted away metal, but it
did turn my naaaasty crusty tail light mount into a usable item.

I'm up in Snohomish. Holler if you need a hand.




-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Bagley [mailto:bagpe-@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, March 04, 2002 9:56 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: 69/70 ambo project fun


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<<Managed to move the spare block from parts storage to the bench and
begin <<tearing it apart. Amazing how heavy those %$#@! get when you
are recovering <<from sprained wrists and a separated shoulder.


Who are you using for your frame? What type of powder coat? I just
finished stripping parts off mine yesterday. All but the head bearing
races. (which, unfortunately are in bad shape) Does anyone do anything
to protect the swing arm threads in the frame at the coaters? I need
the muffler/passenger peg tabs welded up on mine. Any one have a source

 for decent passenger pegs? I suspect as this project goes on I will
have many questions....

And, yes, the motor is quite a heft.

I bought this ambo in 1989 and rode it year round, rain or shine, until

 late 1998. Since then it has sat awaiting a major refit. She has
deserved it for a long time as a reward for being so good to me. No
serious problems (I
think) other than a chip out of a cylinder wall (ran for years that
way). Lots of cosmetic issues. I am looking for an unscraped left crash

 bar, and front fender strut, maybe a really straight front fender. I am

 trying to decide what to do with the tank, which has fairly bad chrome
and multiple dings under old bondo. I have two front ends and two
complete wheel and brake sets as well as multiple tool boxes and side
covers, etc and will have some parts to trade, donate, or sell after
all is sorted out in a month or so. I am eyeing home cad/zinc plating
kits and stainless hardware other than the usual valve and timing cover

 hardware which was done stainless long ago. Any good online sources for

 stainless and metric hardware?

thanks guys

Allan Bagley
70 Ambo (build date Oct 69)
Seattle

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