Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive
 

Subject: Valve Adjust/Now Timing Question

Author: Keith Ruff

Date: Jul 27, 2002, 11:59 AM

Post ID: 1710682478

Thank God for this board and for all of you on it! I read and re-read
all of your comments and inputs, then called Paul. The "Compression
Stroke" indeed was my problem, I was on the exhaust stroke when
adjusting the valves. I simply put my thumb over the spark plug hole to
verify, and the adjustment was a piece of cake! Second nature yes, now
that I have made my mistake and learned how to do it right. Glad I
didn't fire her up as y'all suggested because they were way out.

My local auto shop had NGK BP6ES's, so I picked up 4 (thought they were
NLA?). Gapped them to .023", installed all new wires, new points, new
condenser, new cap, new rotor, and re-adjusted the new gen belt and
assured the timing marks were in alignment with TDC on the left clinder.
My K&N filters are soaking now, getting ready to rinse them and
"re-charge" them.

Now the timing question. I borrowed my friends timing gun, have read
your replies on revving up the engine beyond 2,000 RPM's to check full
advance, and will check this out. My question is, the repair manual
says that for static timing (engine off), the timing mark on the pulley
wheel should be at the "E" mark when the left cylinder is at TDC. When
I manual rotate the engine to left cylinder at TDC, my pulley is at the
"B" mark, or at least in between the "B" and "C" mark, hard to read with
that darn front wheel in the way! Is this correct? I can't imagine my
timing being that far off because she was running fine and hardly ever
pinged under load.

Thanx again to all of you for your help!
Ian Adkins wrote:
 Keith,

What I do is use my T-handled allen wrench to guage when the piston is
TDC.
Just slide it in the spark plug hole (being sure you don't get it at an
angle and jam it in there DUH!) and turn the timing nut with a big
wrench
back and forth till you get to TDC.

At TDC of the compression stroke both valves will be closed that there
should be .006 play on the intake and .010 on the exhaust.

I always start on the left side and them move to the right side when I
am
done. I pull the spark plugs out of both cylinders so the engine turns
easily.

Good luck....after a few times it becomes second nature....Ian

 -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Ruff [mailto:klru-@fcc.net]
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2002 10:08 PM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Valve Adjust Question


Just getting done with the valve adjust. Question is, book called for
top dead center of the piston on that side being adjusted. Problem I
had was at top dead center, I could not get a feeler guage in at all.
Book also said that the valves should be fully closed on each side
(inlet/exhaust) so what I had to do was mildly turn the engine until I
saw one side completely relieved of contact, then checked and adjusted
the valve. After that adjustment, I had to return the engine so the
opposite valve was relieved of any contact, then made that adjustment.
Is this OK? In this situation, the piston was not really at top dead
center but was off a bit. The right side seemed to work OK, though the
exhaust valve adjuster had to be backed out all the way to achieve .010
inch clearance. The left side was a bit more difficult. I repeated the
same process as described above, exhaust valve wasn't a problem, but
inlet valve was darn near adjusted fully out also, at that point, the
piston really wasn't too close to top dead center, but it had to be that
way to get any type of clearance on that valve. I'm a bit confused.
Help! Did I do this right? I can't imagine adjusting the valves at top
dead center as I had both sides adjusted all the way out and got no
clearance until I turned the engine a bit and watched the rocker arms
give the valves a clearance.

Keith Ruff
71 Police Ambassador - NJ



Keith Ruff
71 Police Ambassador - NJ

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