Subject: RE: Not there yet (Lannis' Carbs)
Author: joe jump
Date: Mar 25, 2004, 7:54 AM
Post ID: 1716394492
Lannis,
I'm sorry that the recommended cleaning didn't help; I'm
sure your frustration is mounting. Well, there has to be a reason why
it's running so poorly! One way is to determine what's wrong by finding
out what is right. It certainly sounded like you weren't getting enough
fuel... is the fuel ok, i.e., reasonably fresh? I'll assume that the
tank vent is clear as well as the float bowl vents, and the petcocks are
flowing fine. Are the float bowls filling with fuel? With the bowl off &
petcock turned on, does the fuel flow fine through the float valve? Are
you sure the accelerator pump piston is installed into the jet holder
right side up? That would be the flat end that has the 4 holes is facing
up. If installed wrong side up, the check ball will prohibit fuel flow.
If everything checks out, then it isn't your carbs.
It's been said many times before...most carburetor problems
are in the ignition. How's your battery voltage? Put a volt meter across
your battery before & after you turn on the ignition and while it's
running. With the key on (engine not running) and the points open, do
you have battery voltage at the wiring stud that passes through the
dist. body? Is the insulation of the stud good? Is the condenser wire
isolated from ground/hooked up securly & is the body of the condenser
grounded to the dist. body? Does the dist. body have a good ground back
to the battery? With the key off, primary wire disconnected from the
stud, and points closed, there should be essentially no resistance to
ground back to the neg battery post; with the points open you should see
the opposite. Give a close inspection to your points. Are they gapped
ok? Are there pits on the point faces? Is there a lot of arking &
sparking going on at the points when you crank it over? What color is
the spark coming out of the coil; blue is good, orange is weak (both
might indicate weak condesnser). Check out the secondary; spray the
inside of the cap, wipe out, and look for cracks. Rotor ok? Do you have
5k plug caps? I've seen these go open with an ohmmeter test, but it
never caused the symptoms you're decribing. How are the plugs (grasping
for straws here)? If all this checks out then your ignition is probably
ok.
All that's left is the mechanical items. Vacuum leaks? When
running spray the intake path downstream from the carb with carb cleaner
& listen for a change in engine speed. Are the valves adjusted, i.e.,
not too tight preventing a valve from closing? Is timing close (valve &
ignition)?
If all this checks out I can't help. Most the time it's
something simple.
Good luck & please keep us posted.
J. Jump
St Louis
Lannis wrote:
| Fire it back up. Runs EXACTLY like it did before I started. Pilot screws each out 1.5 turns, slides lifting at the same time. Starts right up on the chokes, idles great till it warms up, then starts running real rich on choke. Ease choke off, starts popping, spitting, and backfiring, won't idle, won't accelerate. Give it a little choke, it'll run and idle but puffs black smoke and gets the plugs black. No change with K&Ns on or off the bike. 10:00. Come into house and commiserate on keyboard to the astonishingly patient and knowledgable Loopframe List. |
If it weren't for Bad Luck I'd have no luck a'tall Gloom, Despair, and agony on me.... Lannis |