Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Digest for Loopfram-@topica.com, issue 2116

Author: Diane Brannick

Date: Aug 14, 2005, 11:00 AM

Post ID: 1719295460



I thought I would post this one more time before I use the much
despised ebay. I have a new set still in the box of Gilardoni pistons,
cylinders, rings, head and base gaskets, orings , nikasil jugs. I paid
$570 for them and will sell for that plus shipping. Money back
guarantee. Oh, they are for Ambassador. Email me, Michael Ittner.
flax sine el dorado mucho.
On Aug 14, 2005, at 4:13 AM, Loopfram-@topica.com wrote:

 -- Topica Digest --

rear wheel hell still
By ray.-@sfcc.edu

RE: rear wheel hell still
By paul-@comcast.net

Re: rear wheel hell still
By tchri-@gmpexpress.net

RE: rear wheel hell still
By klru-@comcast.net

Re: Mystery engine noises
By tedwa-@hotmail.com

RE: Mystery engine noises
By tedwa-@hotmail.com

Re: Mystery engine noises - used chrome v new nikasil
By tedwa-@hotmail.com

RE: rear wheel hell still
By ray.-@sfcc.edu

RE: rear wheel hell still
By ray.-@sfcc.edu

Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....
By kkurb-@aol.com

Re: Mystery engine noises
By Rapf-@aol.com

RE: rear wheel hell still
By ray.-@sfcc.edu

Re: rear wheel hell still
By tchri-@gmpexpress.net

Don't know if I saw it here.
By hacksa-@hotmail.com

RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....
By johnulri-@yahoo.com

RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....
By kkurb-@aol.com

Anyone have a spare trnasmount bushing?
By kkurb-@aol.com

RE: Don't know if I saw it here.
By gr-@thisoldtractor.com

RE: Anyone have a spare trnasmount bushing?
By hacksa-@hotmail.com

------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 13:34:17 +0000
From: Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
Subject: rear wheel hell still



Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but using the
backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end, still without
brakes, but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the wheel
spins fine, no side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and lining to the old ones, same measurements,
except
for lining thickness. I can drop the brake assembly into the drum and
it
will spin freely. The linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not interfering. New
springs
on the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the brakes, then not
at all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside the drum
before it's attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs
are new and correct. Don't know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:44:15 -0400
From: "Paul P. Linn" <paul-@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: rear wheel hell still



Ray,

Could it be when you tighten things up your compressing everything to
much?
Maybe the brake plate is being pushed up against the drum to much when
you
tighten the axle?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Hale [mailto:ray.-@sfcc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:34 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: rear wheel hell still


Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but using the
backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end, still without
brakes,
but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the wheel spins
fine, no
side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel, tightened it down
and
it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes, compared the shoes and
lining to the old ones, same measurements, except for lining
thickness. I
can drop the brake assembly into the drum and it will spin freely. The
linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not interfering. New
springs on
the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the brakes, then
not at
all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside the drum before
it's
attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked everything I
know to
look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs are new and correct.
Don't
know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLf/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------






------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 10:08:30 -0400
From: "Tom Christian" <tchri-@gmpexpress.net>
Subject: Re: rear wheel hell still



Ray - I had a similar symptom on my Eldo after putting on
new rear brake shoes.... turned out to be very simple - I
forgot to tighten the face plate "keeper" or whatever its
called and it slightly cocked the face plate, locking
everything up (while I had the rear wheel off I replaced
the throw out bearing so I'd removed the rod that holds
the intermediate rear brake linkage and "keeper" arm).

Tightened it down, e'thing back to normal. If I recall
correctly, the rear wheel axle torque spec's are over 100
ft/lbs, so it'd be pretty tough to overtighten.

Good luck - let us know what the resolution is. -tom

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:44:15 -0400
Custom Guzzi <paul-@comcast.net> wrote:
 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ben & Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2?
Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive a
FREE* $100
Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of Ben
&
Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2 ice cream for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOvZb1dfltbOluDFa/IceCream
Research Survey
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Ray,

Could it be when you tighten things up your compressing
everything to much?
Maybe the brake plate is being pushed up against the
drum to much when you
tighten the axle?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Hale [mailto:ray.-@sfcc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:34 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: rear wheel hell still


Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on
the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but
using the backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end,
still without brakes,
but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the
wheel spins fine, no
side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and
it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and
lining to the old ones, same measurements, except for
lining thickness. I
can drop the brake assembly into the drum and it will
spin freely. The
linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not
interfering. New springs on
the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the
brakes, then not at
all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside
the drum before it's
attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to
look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs are
new and correct. Don't
know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLf/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm
SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by
68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbOluDFf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 16:19:44 +0000
From: Keith Ruff <klru-@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: rear wheel hell still



I would try adding a shim/spacer to the bearing and re-install with
everything together. Sounds like the brake hub may be binding up
against the wheel when you tighten everything up. I had this same
problem with my Ambo, added a bearing shim, and the world was
re-aligned
:)

Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
Ray Hale wrote:
 
Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but using the
backing

plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end, still without
brakes, but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the wheel
spins fine, no side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and lining to the old ones, same measurements,
except

for lining thickness. I can drop the brake assembly into the drum and
it

will spin freely. The linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not interfering. New
springs

on the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the brakes, then
not
at all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside the drum
before it's attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs
are new and correct. Don't know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:40:04 -0700
From: "Edward Walton" <tedwa-@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mystery engine noises



<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE>
<P>Ya Ted I know what you mean. Just does not seem right to not use
the one side that still works good and just fix the other. If the
noise is from the piston ring slop in the ring grove I still
have to worry about taking the chrome off the walls. Then
everything gets screwed up! If its the rod bushings, motor comes
appart and the costs get on the real heavy
side. I think riding with the problem could damage
the crankshaft if its the rod bushings, I cannot aford that! Going to
park it till I can get it appart. Do not have the confidense to do the
bottom end, so will have to ship it out. sorry about using your name
man but it works good for the hot mail !!!</P>
<P>Ed<BR><BR></P><BR><BR><BR>From: Ted Ward
<ju-@astrocomma.com><BR>Reply-To:
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>To:
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>Subject: Re: Mystery engine
noises<BR>Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2005 13:38:10 -0700 (PDT)<BR><BR>Your free
subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!<BR>No Credit Checks! No Paper
Hassles! Nothing To Fax!<BR>Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within
the
Hour!<BR>http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6PLDGa/
911PaydayAdvance<BR>---------------------------------------------------
----------------<BR><BR>Hey Edward. I was on a british motorcycle list
(Brit-Iron) from<BR>1995-2002 and this list now for a year or so. One
thing I have<BR>noticed is people on these lists usually tend to push
for the<BR>extravagant solution. It's because the guys on
these lists are<BR>generally REALLY into their bikes. You are getting
the "best"<BR>solution but I'm like you, I tend to wait for something
to break<BR>before I fix it (or at least be in obvious need of
repair). I'm<BR>certainly not right, just cheap. I'm pretty sure I
would be well<BR>served to put in the Gilardoni sets also though but
my bike runs<BR>pretty well. I also have the unhappy feeling that I
need to<BR>replace the bearings in my transmission and my motor also
makes<BR>a strange mid-range noise which was pegged as "rod bearings"
so<BR>I probably need those too. But I just don't have the money
right<BR>now and its too hot to do all that work here in Oklahoma
now<BR>anyway.<BR><BR>Weird that your email address is
Tedward.<BR><BR>Ted Ward<BR><BR>--- edward Walton
<tedwa-@hotmail.com> wrote:<BR>I did not loose chrome offthe
walls of the last cylinder set but<BR>there was
some fine pit marks the size of a pen tip and i think<BR>the set was
well worn out and started to burn oil under full<BR>power. It had been
sitting for four years. Any how the original<BR>cylinders that are on
now have never lost chrome yet, I have had<BR>rocker shafts out and
bushings looked ok. Maybe the rod bushing<BR>is worn from taking the
piston pin in and out two times ? What<BR>do you think? I know some of
the guys are thinking just buck up<BR>and go with the newer cylinders
but the right side works perfect<BR>for now so thats why i have spent
somuch time trying to get the<BR>other side going .Thanks for your
help Matt<BR><BR><BR>Ted Ward<BR><BR>Your free subscription is
supported by today's
sponsor:
<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Hershey�'s�®or Ghirardelli�®Chocolate?<BR>Take our Nationwide
Chocolate Survey today!<BR>Receive a FREE* $100



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 10:08:26 -0700
From: "Edward Walton" <tedwa-@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Mystery engine noises



<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE>
<P>Thanks for the info Jason you sure got your moneys worth out of the
G5 ! </P>
<P>i might pull rod out and get wristpin and crank bushing
replaced O boy more gaskets. Top end off again !!! I have to get
another piston as the one ring grove is to wide. </P>
<P>Ed <BR><BR></P><BR><BR><BR>From: Jason Telford
<jr-@avalon.net><BR>Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>To:
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>Subject: RE: Mystery engine
noises<BR>Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 16:51:12 +0000<BR><BR>Your free
subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm
SP.<BR>Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by 68%
Click<BR>here to get your 30-day free
supply.<BR>http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltb6PLDGa/
Nexiderm<BR>-----------------------------------------------------------
--------<BR><BR>To just look at it is real easy- a dozen or so bolts
hold the pan on.<BR>Drop it off- it's a good idea to clean it out
while you're there- and<BR>take a look up underneath. The
rods do move back and forth
some- don't<BR>be surprised. They shouldn't be loose on the
bearings and to measure<BR>the clearance you need some
plastigauge. Then again, it could be
loose<BR>wristpins. They were worn out on my
G5. Dang- I only got 375,000 miles<BR>out of that engine
before it needed new pistons. I should complain.<BR>There's
two advantages of letting Mark E. go through your bike. 1
is<BR>that you damn well know it's going to be right. 2 is
that he's a pretty<BR>entertaining fellow.<BR><BR>Edward Walton
wrote:<BR>><BR>><BR>> I was afraid of that. How big of a job
is it to pull the bottem end<BR>> appart. Is that some thing I
should leave to Mark! I have had lots of<BR>> top ends appart but
never a bottom end?<BR><BR>Your free subscription is supported by
today's
file attachment with <a
href="http://g.msn.com/8HMAENCA/2746??PS=47575" target="_top">MSN
Premium. </a> Join now and get the first two months FREE*</html>



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 10:16:07 -0700
From: "Edward Walton" <tedwa-@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mystery engine noises - used chrome v new nikasil



<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE>
<P>Thanks for the info Mat, this is a good subject for all the newbees
on the list !! I will definintely think over what you have said !! How
can you tell Chrome dammage to bushings and lifter and even the
crankshaft ?</P>
<P>ED<BR><BR></P><BR><BR><BR>From: Matthew Moore
<moore-@cablespeed.com><BR>Reply-To:
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>To:
Loopfram-@topica.com<BR>Subject: Re: Mystery engine noises -
used chrome v new nikasil<BR>Date: Wed, 10 Aug 2005 13:45:26
-0400<BR><BR>Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------
<BR>Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!<BR>No Credit Checks! Many
Lenders are 100% Paperless!<BR>Let The Wizard Find the right Lender
for
you!<BR>http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6PLDGa/
911PaydayAdvance<BR>---------------------------------------------------
----------------<BR><BR>Ted,<BR>I understand what you are saying about
how others may respond on other<BR>lists. Must be nice to have a lot
of extra $$ to spend on your pet project,<BR>eh? ;-)<BR>This does and
does not apply to what I have
answered to Ed's question. The<BR>reason I am recommending going with
the Gilardoni sets instead of dinking<BR>around with used sets (and if
you want to do it that way, I'm all for it) is<BR>because when the
chrome comes off it doesn't just affect the cylinders and<BR>pistons,
it can junk an entire engine (or at least cost you more $$ than
the<BR>kits will).<BR>I caught mine after some serious damaage was
done, but not before it got too<BR>far out of hand. I had to replace
the con rod bearings and top end bushings<BR>with the new piston
sets.<BR> My main bearings, crank, cam and cam bearings,
lifters, rockers and<BR>assemblies all had some damage from the chrome
flakes but nothing too<BR>serious.<BR>I am not saying that using used
chrome bores can't be done and that you<BR>might not get a lot of
miles out of them (I mean, they were made for million<BR>mile touring,
right?) But



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 17:33:41 +0000
From: Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
Subject: RE: rear wheel hell still



Keith,
I already tried this and adding more shims to allow the wheel to spin
creates a lot of side to side play.
Ray

Keith Ruff wrote:
 
I would try adding a shim/spacer to the bearing and re-install with
everything together. Sounds like the brake hub may be binding up
against the wheel when you tighten everything up. I had this same
problem with my Ambo, added a bearing shim, and the world was
re-aligned

:)

Keith Ruff
70 Cafe Racer Ambo
Manahawkin, NJ
Ray Hale wrote:
 
Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but using the
backing


plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end, still without
brakes, but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the wheel
spins fine, no side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and it won't budge. Took it off, removed the
brakes,
compared the shoes and lining to the old ones, same measurements,
except


for lining thickness. I can drop the brake assembly into the drum
and it


will spin freely. The linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not interfering. New
springs


on the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the brakes, then
not
at all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside the drum
before it's attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and
springs
are new and correct. Don't know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"



pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 17:35:03 +0000
From: Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
Subject: RE: rear wheel hell still



Good idea. I'll try this.
Ray


Tom Christian wrote:
 
Ray - I had a similar symptom on my Eldo after putting on
new rear brake shoes.... turned out to be very simple - I
forgot to tighten the face plate "keeper" or whatever its
called and it slightly cocked the face plate, locking
everything up (while I had the rear wheel off I replaced
the throw out bearing so I'd removed the rod that holds
the intermediate rear brake linkage and "keeper" arm).

Tightened it down, e'thing back to normal. If I recall
correctly, the rear wheel axle torque spec's are over 100
ft/lbs, so it'd be pretty tough to overtighten.

Good luck - let us know what the resolution is. -tom

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:44:15 -0400
Custom Guzzi <paul-@comcast.net> wrote:
 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ben & Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2?
Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive a
FREE* $100
Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of Ben
&
Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2 ice cream for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOvZb1dfltbOluDFa/IceCream
Research Survey
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Ray,

Could it be when you tighten things up your compressing
everything to much?
Maybe the brake plate is being pushed up against the
drum to much when you
tighten the axle?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Hale [mailto:ray.-@sfcc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:34 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: rear wheel hell still


Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on
the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but
using the backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end,
still without brakes,
but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the
wheel spins fine, no
side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and
it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and
lining to the old ones, same measurements, except for
lining thickness. I
can drop the brake assembly into the drum and it will
spin freely. The
linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not
interfering. New springs on
the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the
brakes, then not at
all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside
the drum before it's
attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to
look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs are
new and correct. Don't
know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLf/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm
SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by
68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbOluDFf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 19:45:54 +0000
From: Keith K <kkurb-@aol.com>
Subject: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....



Had to slice out the header pipe end, then I had to cut the nut into 4.
They came out, but I am telling you I have never seen anything like
that. Almost looked like the aluminum disntegrated a bit into powder.
Though i was able to knock the nuts off piece by piece, they came out.
Because I never screwed them out, they just popped right off the
threads
in the exhaust hole. Yet the threads seemed like they had been
compromised. Not stripped, but not as deep as the rear threads where
the
nut was not screwed to. I cleaned them out, and the nut still screws
in,
I am just a little worried about the integrity of the threads holding
the new nuts on. Any suggestions on this? I really do not want to have
them machined and welded with a sleeve if I don't have to. If the Gurus
here think I may be bale to use them as is, please speak up. If not,
suggestions on the best way to deal with this situation will be greatly
appreciated.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 16:36:21 EDT
From: Rapf-@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mystery engine noises




-------------------------------1123965381
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1"US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Ed when you say to wide ? how wide ? with the ring pushed into the
piston
and using a feeler gauge. how many thousands.
Is your noise high or low . rick

-------------------------------1123965381
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII">
<META content="MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722" name=GENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY id=role_body style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: #000000;
FONT-FAMILY: Arial"
bottomMargin=7 leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7><FONT
id=role_document
face=Arial color=#000000 size=2>
<DIV>Ed when you say to wide ? how wide ? with the ring pushed
into the
piston and using a feeler gauge. how many thousands.</DIV>
<DIV>Is your noise high or low . rick</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

-------------------------------1123965381--


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 20:52:15 +0000
From: Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu>
Subject: RE: rear wheel hell still



Tom,
Thank you so much!!!! I owe you. You hit it right on the head. It's
done. Bolted up the "keeper" as you call it and torqued the axle and
it's great. Wow. What a chore.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


Tom Christian wrote:
 
Ray - I had a similar symptom on my Eldo after putting on
new rear brake shoes.... turned out to be very simple - I
forgot to tighten the face plate "keeper" or whatever its
called and it slightly cocked the face plate, locking
everything up (while I had the rear wheel off I replaced
the throw out bearing so I'd removed the rod that holds
the intermediate rear brake linkage and "keeper" arm).

Tightened it down, e'thing back to normal. If I recall
correctly, the rear wheel axle torque spec's are over 100
ft/lbs, so it'd be pretty tough to overtighten.

Good luck - let us know what the resolution is. -tom

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:44:15 -0400
Custom Guzzi <paul-@comcast.net> wrote:
 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Ben & Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2?
Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive a
FREE* $100
Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of Ben
&
Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2 ice cream for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOvZb1dfltbOluDFa/IceCream
Research Survey
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Ray,

Could it be when you tighten things up your compressing
everything to much?
Maybe the brake plate is being pushed up against the
drum to much when you
tighten the axle?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Hale [mailto:ray.-@sfcc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:34 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: rear wheel hell still


Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on
the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but
using the backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end,
still without brakes,
but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the
wheel spins fine, no
side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and
it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and
lining to the old ones, same measurements, except for
lining thickness. I
can drop the brake assembly into the drum and it will
spin freely. The
linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not
interfering. New springs on
the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without ridges.

Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the
brakes, then not at
all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside
the drum before it's
attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to
look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs are
new and correct. Don't
know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLf/911PaydayAdvance
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without painful injections with Nexiderm
SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by
68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbOluDFf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 17:39:25 -0400
From: "Tom Christian" <tchri-@gmpexpress.net>
Subject: Re: rear wheel hell still



Awesome. Glad to hear its fixed. -tom

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 20:52:15 +0000
Ray Hale <ray.-@sfcc.edu> wrote:
 Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you a lottery player?Play smarter! Improve your
odds and detect winning patterns. Access the best
kept lottery secret on the Net. Easy to use!
http://click.topica.com/caadOubb1dfltbOluDFa/Lottery
Vault
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Tom,
Thank you so much!!!! I owe you. You hit it right on the
head. It's
done. Bolted up the "keeper" as you call it and torqued
the axle and
it's great. Wow. What a chore.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"


Tom Christian wrote:
 
Ray - I had a similar symptom on my Eldo after putting
on
new rear brake shoes.... turned out to be very simple -
I
forgot to tighten the face plate "keeper" or whatever
its
called and it slightly cocked the face plate, locking
everything up (while I had the rear wheel off I replaced
the throw out bearing so I'd removed the rod that holds
the intermediate rear brake linkage and "keeper" arm).

Tightened it down, e'thing back to normal. If I recall
correctly, the rear wheel axle torque spec's are over
100
ft/lbs, so it'd be pretty tough to overtighten.

Good luck - let us know what the resolution is. -tom

On Sat, 13 Aug 2005 09:44:15 -0400
Custom Guzzi <paul-@comcast.net> wrote:
 Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 Ben & Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2?
Take our Nationwide Ice Cream Survey today! Receive a
FREE* $100
Restaurant Gift Card of your choice or $100 worth of
Ben
 &
Jerry�1/2s�1/2 or H�1/2agen-Dazs�1/2 ice cream for participating!
http://click.topica.com/caadOvZb1dfltbOluDFa/IceCream
Research Survey
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Ray,

Could it be when you tighten things up your
compressing
 everything to much?
Maybe the brake plate is being pushed up against the
drum to much when you
tighten the axle?

Paul

-----Original Message-----
From: Ray Hale [mailto:ray.-@sfcc.edu]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:34 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: rear wheel hell still


Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 Get up to $1500.00 Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! No Paper Hassles! Nothing To Fax!
Apply Online and We'll Contact You Within the Hour!
http://click.topica.com/caadOuob1dfltb6GIoLa/911PaydayAdvance
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Hi,
Here's the scenario. Trying to mount the rear wheel on
the 73 Eldo. I
shimmed the bearings without the brakes installed, but
using the backing
plate of course. Mounted the wheel to the rear end,
still without brakes,
but with all hardware, tightened down the axle and the
wheel spins fine, no
side play. Installed the brakes, refitted the wheel,
tightened it down and
it won't budge. Took it off, removed the brakes,
compared the shoes and
lining to the old ones, same measurements, except for
lining thickness. I
can drop the brake assembly into the drum and it will
spin freely. The
linings aren't stopping the wheel from turning.
Never hooked up the brake linkage so that's not
interfering. New springs on
the brake shoes. Inside of drum is clean without
ridges.
 
Can't figure out why the wheel turns great without the
brakes, then not at
all with them, when the brakes will turn freely inside
the drum before it's
attached to the bike. Have checked and triple checked
everything I know to
look for. All bearings, seals, shoes, and springs are
new and correct. Don't
know what else to investigate.
Ray
pax sine tedio
73 Eldo "19"

Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 Get $1000.00 Overnight! Fast and Easy!
No Credit Checks! Many Lenders are 100% Paperless!
Let The Wizard Find the right Lender for you!
http://click.topica.com/caadOutb1dfltb6GIoLf/911PaydayAdvance
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:
 
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 Erase wrinkles without painful injections with
Nexiderm
 SP.
Nexiderm SP is clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by
68% Click
here to get your 30-day free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvHb1dfltbOluDFf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------
 

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Erase wrinkles without Botox! Nexiderm SP is clinically
proven to
reduce wrinkles by 68% Click here to get your 30-day
free supply.
http://click.topica.com/caadOvzb1dfltbOluDFf/Nexiderm
-------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:16:53 +0000
From: Hacksaw <hacksa-@hotmail.com>
Subject: Don't know if I saw it here.



Saw someone post a new source for a steering stabilzer to a site I
visited.
They were applying it to a loopframe if I remember correctly.
They had made the purchase, mounted it and promised pics.
Searched to no avail.
If someone knows where I saw it please 'jog' my memory.
Thanks,
Hack

non 柲umore che sia musica


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2005 22:32:18 +0000
From: John Ulrich <johnulri-@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....




Keith K wrote:
 the threads seemed like they had been compromised. Not stripped, but >
not as deep as the rear threads where the nut was not screwed to. I >
cleaned them out, and the nut still screws in, I am just a little
worried about the integrity of the threads holding
the new nuts on.

I read something somewhere about the nuts having various tolerances.

I found when replacing mine with unused OEM nuts. One nut was too tight
in left head but perfect in the other. The other nut was too loose in
the right head but fit perfect in the other???

You might try a few different nuts and see if you czn find the perfect
match.

Later,
JU


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 00:43:17 +0000
From: Keith K <kkurb-@aol.com>
Subject: RE: Finally, Exhaust Nuts out, but....



That's weird. Because the left side was very losse on the header pipe,
but the nut was not in all the way to the head. But still stuck. The
right side was tightened all the way up to the head. Wonder if the PO
had a similar experience with that.


John Ulrich wrote:
 

Keith K wrote:
 the threads seemed like they had been compromised. Not stripped, but
 
not as deep as the rear threads where the nut was not screwed to. I >
cleaned them out, and the nut still screws in, I am just a little
worried about the integrity of the threads holding
the new nuts on.

I read something somewhere about the nuts having various tolerances.

I found when replacing mine with unused OEM nuts. One nut was too
tight
in left head but perfect in the other. The other nut was too loose in
the right head but fit perfect in the other???

You might try a few different nuts and see if you czn find the perfect
match.

Later,
JU


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 00:48:51 +0000
From: Keith K <kkurb-@aol.com>
Subject: Anyone have a spare trnasmount bushing?



The trans mount bushing seemed almost welded into the bushing, had to
torch the bolt off and still couln't get the bolt out which is why I
had
so much trouble getting it off in the first place.

Anyone have a spare or know where I can get one? Or do I have to find
similar aluminum tubing and can I use that?


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 01:21:06 +0000
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Subject: RE: Don't know if I saw it here.



Hi Hacksaw,

I think that was Joe Jump??? Here is the URL to the one that was talked
about:

https://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-suspension.php?category_id=6.3

It is on my to do list to get one of these...but my list is too long
right now and it'll just have to wait! :>

Hacksaw wrote:
 
Saw someone post a new source for a steering stabilzer to a site I
visited.
They were applying it to a loopframe if I remember correctly.
They had made the purchase, mounted it and promised pics.
Searched to no avail.
If someone knows where I saw it please 'jog' my memory.
Thanks,
Hack

non 柲umore che sia musica



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc

Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2005 01:21:37 +0000
From: Hacksaw <hacksa-@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone have a spare trnasmount bushing?



Keith,
I did a "reply to sender" with info.
If that didn't work contact me off list at
hacksaw_neb @ hotmail . com
I'm leaving for Toronto for a month tomorrow afternoon but if you can
let me know your info before then I can drop a couple in the mail
before
I go.
Hacksaw


Keith K wrote:
 
The trans mount bushing seemed almost welded into the bushing, had to
torch the bolt off and still couln't get the bolt out which is why I
had

so much trouble getting it off in the first place.

Anyone have a spare or know where I can get one? Or do I have to find
similar aluminum tubing and can I use that?



non 柲umore che sia musica


------------------------------

End of Loopfram-@topica.com digest, issue 2116

Entire thread: