Subject: Re: An oddity
Author: Robert Hawkes
Date: Apr 19, 2001, 8:43 AM
Post ID: 1706380711
Peter,
This is interesting. It just so happens that the starboard carb is leaning
toward the engine. It has to on account of the bowl touches the engine
case. The intake tube is not long enough or is not angled correctly to push
the carb back away from the head so that the bowl should not touch the
engine case. I did not say this either in my GREMLIN WANTED email (it seems
I have done so much to this bike that I can't remember it all!!) but I
installed an extra carb gasket between the carb tube and the head so now
there are two thicknesses of gasket there to try to back that carb up a bit.
It did not work very well. Also, the old round slide carb did not touch the
engine case. I will keep this theory in mind though as I have heard it
before and didn't think of it until you made mentioned of it. I will try the
aluminium foil trick. Best, Bob Hawkes
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Scheer <plsc-@tycoelectronics.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: An oddity
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Bob
The comment about too much fuel causing your problems makes sense.
for what its worth, I have a crazy story here that may or may not have
anything to do with your problem, but since you are at your wits end about
this, let me try this on you.
I had a 1969 Volvo, 4 cyl with 2 side draft carbs, I think Weber but I
be sure. Because the motor was designed for high test fuel and I couldn'tping.
get it any more in the late 1970s I retarded the timing so it wouldn't
Sometime after that, I cant recall if this was connected to the timingto
change but I had major problems when I stopped the car when hot and tried
re-start it. After lots of cranking and all kinds of black smoke , itwould
catch and run.the
I dont remember how I figured this out but, the fuel was picking up too
much heat from the near by exhaust manifold and the gas was boiling in the
bowl and spilling into the intake, flooding the engine. The fix was to
wrap aluminum foil around the bowls as a heat reflector. It worked. I
gave the car to my sister in law, and when she had it in for a tune up,
mechanic threw the "custom" aluminum foil heat shield away and the carmore
wouldn't want to start when hot again.
I know this is a long shot but the email thread here about too much fuel
reminded me of this.
Good luck anyway, sounds like you are real close to getting it fixed.-----Original Message-----
From: mike skaggs [SMTP:msse-@classicguzzi.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 11:26 AM
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: An oddity
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Sounds like the float is not shutting off fuel to me...have you tried
another carb on that side?
Mike
www.classicguzzi.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Hawkes <haw-@frontiernet.net>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: An oddity============================================================
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Brian,
Thanks for your response; I sort of get it. Let me tell you a few
neededthings about this Ambo of mine.dealer
When I bought this bike, over a year ago, it did not run right. Theinstalled a new battery and changed the generator which did nothing.
Electrics are all Marelli. All along I thought a piston kit was
cylinders.as,upon inspection, there was evidence of chrome flaking off the
valvesSo, I installed a new Nikasil piston kit, new gaskets, lapped the
times,andseats, measured the valve guides and valve stems within tolerances,torquedthe heads two times for break-in period, adjusted the valves two
toreplaced spark plug wires and coil wire and checked for proper ohmand
resistance, replaced return springs on automatic spark advance using 8
9coil springs, replaced distributor cap, cleaned the cap, rotor andpoints,new points and condenser and I have put more new spark plugs on theterminals
starboard side cylinder than I can count. Also cleaned batteryand leads to regulator. (Even new header pipe gaskets.)Then
When I start the bike with a new plug she will run OK for about 10 mi.when I slow down or stop at a red light the starboard cylinder begin
isfailand then will quit. I give it the gas a bit and she starts to fireagainand then fails. I pull the plug and always find evidence of fouling;theplug is wet, dripping wet with gasoline. Sometimes gas will drip outthestarboard header where it joins the muffler. When both cylinders arefiringthe bike has plenty of power and (like the rest of you guys) the bike
thatajoy to ride but it is always short lived. Please keep in mind thatdespiteall the changes mentioned above it is always the starboard cylinder
Ian,quits.
I am very grateful for all the help from you guys on this list esp.
becomingAndy, Peter, Rich and Mark and now from you Brian but I am now
CASEdesperate, therefore:ARREST
IF ANYONE ON THIS LIST PROVIDES ME WITH INFORMATION LEADING TO THEAND CONVICTION OF THE GREMLIN THAT IS CAUSING THIS PROBLEM AND RESULTSIN
MYAMBASSADOR RUNNING CONTINUOUSLY ON TWO CYLINDERS I WILL SEND THEM A
STATESOFTHEIR FAVOURITE BEER - OFFER GOOD ONLY IN THE CONTINENTAL UNITED
time,-ONE WINNER ONLY.spark
Thanks, Bob Hawkes
----- Original Message -----
From: <murp-@aol.com>
To: <Loopfram-@topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 11:25 PM
Subject: RE: An oddity--- Sponsor's Message --------------------------------------
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Robert,
I also think that the current is finding a path through the
distributor cap from the center connector (the coil output) to theplug wires. I would bet that both plugs are sparking at the same
willthebut only the one at TDC fires. The motor runs, but probably not that
well. I don't think it is really necessary to find the short throughnecessarycap (which could be just a little moisture or dirt). It is notbecause when the rotor is in the distributor, a path through the cap
will not be used because there is a low resistance path through the
rotor. Also, only one cylinder will fire at a time because there
theonly be one low resistance path at a time.
Brian,
'74 Eldo
'78 T3
Robert Hawkes wrote:Frank,
That's my Ambassador that Ian is talking about. It ran without
manyfordistributor cap being on the distributor. Now, how does one check
ashort? Thanks, Bob Hawkes, 1969 MG Ambassador
----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Flood
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: An oddity
==========================================================="So
fromBackinteresting emails. So little time to read them.
Thanks to myTopica, I can find what I want, when I want it."
So can you.
http://click.topica.com/caaabBCb1dfltb1FlG8b/register
=========================================================== Ian :jumperwhen I used to work on 2 cylinder John Deere tractors, we use alot.wire to make
them run without the distributor cap being in place.
Almost sounds to me like a shot circut to me.
Frank " I read the postings daily" I have learned aacrossThanks
Recent owner of 1972 Ambo----- Restoration in Progress
>From: Ian Adkins
>Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
>To: Loopframe
>Subject: An oddity
>Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2001 22:47:23 -0400
>
>============================================================
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>
>Hi All,
>
>I've been helping a friend with his Ambo project and he camean>interesting situation that I thought I might seek some input
itsthe>list.
>
>While working on his bike he pulled the distributor cap from
fire.mountand>and
>rested it aside. It was still attached to the spark plug leadsthestarted>leads
>were connected to the plugs. As he turned over the bike ithas>running.
>
>What might cause this to occur? Interesting to note is that hebeen>having trouble with the engine where one cylinder will not
http://explorer.msn.comWewereof>
>thinking that it may be carburetor related but now that I heardthis>anomaly I think that his problems might be ignition related.
>
>Any thoughts?
>
>Regards....Ian
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- Sponsor's Message --------------------------------------
>Who Are the Top Dogs?
>Find out about the best newsletters and discussions!
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>
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