Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: Re: Engine Removal

Author: Edward Walton

Date: Nov 15, 2004, 9:26 AM

Post ID: 1717887599



<html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE>
<P>Thanks Paul will leave the seal in place and hope it doesn`t leak</P>
<P>Ted<BR></P></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>From: Custom Guzzi <paul-@comcast.net>
<DIV></DIV>Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
<DIV></DIV>To: Loopfram-@topica.com
<DIV></DIV>Subject: Re: Engine Removal
<DIV></DIV>Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2004 09:04:25 -0500
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<DIV></DIV>I wouldn't worry about it. Sometime there is a slight ridge worn into the crank so you have to put the seal in a little deeper or if you are careful you can put it flush with the edge of the housing. Next time you have to go in there you could change it if it's leaking.
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>Paul
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>edward Walton wrote:
<DIV></DIV>
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<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Thanks Joe great advise. I new there had to be away of getting the
<DIV></DIV>>seal out . Came out very easy! But I inatalled the new seal too far
<DIV></DIV>>in, soppose to be flush acording to Guzzioligy and i have it in
<DIV></DIV>>0.250-0.325 inch past the outside of the housing lip. Damm, what do
<DIV></DIV>>you think, will have to do it again when i get a new seal ?. I
<DIV></DIV>>cleaned the crankshaft with green scotchbright. It went over the
<DIV></DIV>>crankshaft good . New Seal was a double lip Teemers light brown
<DIV></DIV>>seal, the old one was black with a single lip !? Now I have to glue
<DIV></DIV>>up the camshaft plug. Does breather tube gaskets ever leak ?
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>This bike is 1973 850 eldo running basket case that i bought for a
<DIV></DIV>>touring bike!! I have a Shoie Handle Bar Faring and Calafia Fat Bags
<DIV></DIV>>to mount on!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Been riding a Red Ambo since 94 and never had to do very much to
<DIV></DIV>>keep er running! I have been all over B.C. and Washington with the
<DIV></DIV>>Ambo and sure got the looks. Not many of these old Guzzi`s up here!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>> Rode my sons Eldo and fell in love with it ! For some of you who
<DIV></DIV>>have been on the list for a while, my son bought Derik Hamlets old
<DIV></DIV>>bike. My son now lives in Montreal and bikes in storage I think Ian
<DIV></DIV>>knows all about that place!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>As for me I just retired this year, and I am going to ride the Eldo
<DIV></DIV>>to the National next year and everyother!!!!!!!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Thanks again for the help!
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>Ted
<DIV></DIV>>
<DIV></DIV>>From: joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com> Reply-To:
<DIV></DIV>>Loopfram-@topica.com To: Loopfram-@topica.com Subject:
<DIV></DIV>>RE: Engine Removal Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 14:55:04 +0000 Your free
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<DIV></DIV>>No disrespect to Greg, but I wouldn't recommend removing the rear
<DIV></DIV>>main carrier to replace the seal; reason is that I've seen the
<DIV></DIV>>flanges on these carriers broken off buy what I assume is a removal
<DIV></DIV>>effort gone wrong. If you really need to remove the carrier I
<DIV></DIV>>believe that two of bolt holes are threaded to take larger bolts so
<DIV></DIV>>you could "Jack " the carier out, but make sure you do it equally.
<DIV></DIV>> I've replaced this seal a couple times; once on my V-7 Sport &
<DIV></DIV>>once on a friend's 850T. I drilled a small hole through the old seal
<DIV></DIV>>on the flat surface mid-way between the ID & OD & installed a sheet
<DIV></DIV>>metal screw into the hole. This served as something to grab hold of
<DIV></DIV>>with a vice grips to pull the seal out. After removal, you can clean
<DIV></DIV>>up the recess where the seal fits with a rag, some spray carb
<DIV></DIV>>cleaner, & if you are so equipped, some compressed air. Good Idea to
<DIV></DIV>>polish up the sealing surface on the cranklshaft. Then slip the
<DIV></DIV>>lubed-up new seal over the crank & tap it home. Greg Bender wrote: >
<DIV></DIV>> > Hi Ted, > > Don't feel dumb at all...most of us (at least the
<DIV></DIV>>one's humble enough to > > admit it) have learned from experience
<DIV></DIV>>the best way to work on the loop > frames by making mistakes and
<DIV></DIV>>performing extra steps. This certainly > includes me! :> > > You are
<DIV></DIV>>now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking at the >
<DIV></DIV>>flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch, flywheel, etc).
<DIV></DIV>>You > > do not need to worry about supporting the crankshaft when
<DIV></DIV>>you remove the > > flange (unless, of course, you have the front of
<DIV></DIV>>the crankshaft undone > as well...which you don't). Perhaps it is
<DIV></DIV>>possible to remove the rear > main seal without pulling the flange,
<DIV></DIV>>but I would never try it. It's > just too risky that you'll gouge up
<DIV></DIV>>the crank. Even if you don't, it's a > > great idea to clean up the
<DIV></DIV>>end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads > > so that it is nice
<DIV></DIV>>and smooth for the new seal. > > So, you need to remove the flange.
<DIV></DIV>>But, don't just go prying it out of > there or you'll break the
<DIV></DIV>>flange (this equals more money you don't want > to spend!). You must
<DIV></DIV>>be very cautious and take your time. First, remove > all of the
<DIV></DIV>>bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8 > > of
<DIV></DIV>>them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the
<DIV></DIV>> > flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not
<DIV></DIV>> > threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I
<DIV></DIV>>don't > have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts
<DIV></DIV>>of the > correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x
<DIV></DIV>>1.5mm; but they > > might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and
<DIV></DIV>>evening screw each bolt > in. The bolts are larger in diameter than
<DIV></DIV>>the bolts that hold the flange > > on, so they push up against the
<DIV></DIV>>case. You want to be careful here and > not get them unequal or put
<DIV></DIV>>too much pressure on them...else you'll > break the flange. It
<DIV></DIV>>sometimes helps to put a *little* pressure on them, > > then give
<DIV></DIV>>the flange a smack with a hammer...being careful where you hit > >
<DIV></DIV>>it and protecting the flange with wood. Resist all temptations to
<DIV></DIV>>pry on > > the flange or to hit one of the webbing members of the
<DIV></DIV>>flange. > > While you are at it, you may want to see the checklist
<DIV></DIV>>I've put > together: >
<DIV></DIV>>http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things
<DIV></DIV>> > > > > Best of luck...let us know how it goes. > > Edward Walton
<DIV></DIV>>wrote: > > > > > > Greg thanks for the help. I see all the smart
<DIV></DIV>>guys can take the tranny > > off in the frame ! Well dummy here has
<DIV></DIV>>both out and on the bench. > > Looking at a parts list I see that
<DIV></DIV>>the carrier housing for the rear main > > > > seal is also holding
<DIV></DIV>>the rear main bearing, is this right? And if it is, > > > > how do
<DIV></DIV>>they hold the crank shaft up when they pull that housing off when >
<DIV></DIV>> > > > its in the frame ? If you do not take the housing out how
<DIV></DIV>>does the rear > > main seal come out ? Any of you guys done this
<DIV></DIV>>before? > > As for the JB Weld, Do you put the JB on the outside to
<DIV></DIV>>stop oil > > leaks or do you have to instal the plug with it on ?. >
<DIV></DIV>> > Thanks for your help Guys > > Ted 750 Ambo > > From: Greg
<DIV></DIV>>Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> > > Reply-To:
<DIV></DIV>>Loopfram-@topica.com > > To: Loopfram-@topica.com > >
<DIV></DIV>>Subject: RE: Engine Removal > > Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:21
<DIV></DIV>>+0000 > > > > Your free subscription is supported by today's
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<DIV></DIV>> > > > > Hi Ted, > > > > Not to answer for Mark (and please correct
<DIV></DIV>>me if I mis-speak, Mark), > > but... > > > > Generally it's a good
<DIV></DIV>>idea to JB Weld the cam plug because some of them > > have tendency
<DIV></DIV>>to leak. I suppose one could actually come out, but I've > > not
<DIV></DIV>>heard of that...especially given that the forces from the helically
<DIV></DIV>> > > cut cam shaft timing gear move the cam in the opposite
<DIV></DIV>>direction. Having > > > > > > said this, I've not JB welded mine. >
<DIV></DIV>> > > > As for paper gaskets, given the effort you've gone to get
<DIV></DIV>>everything > > apart and put back together, I would definitely put
<DIV></DIV>>in new paper > > gaskets. There is nothing particularly excitely
<DIV></DIV>>about the Guzzi paper > > gaskets that seperate them from paper
<DIV></DIV>>gaskets you can make yourself. > > Guzzi one's are just already cut
<DIV></DIV>>out. If you are planning to address > > other gaskets in the future,
<DIV></DIV>>you might as well purchase the whole gasket > > > > > > kit, as I
<DIV></DIV>>believe you save a few dollars that way. > > > > As for the
<DIV></DIV>>religious issue of whether or not to use some type of gasket > >
<DIV></DIV>>sealer on the gasket, I'll leave that decision up to you. > > > >
<DIV></DIV>>Edward Walton wrote: > > > > > > > > > Mark I forget why you have to
<DIV></DIV>>JB Weld the cam Plug ? And how inportant > > > is the rear seal
<DIV></DIV>>carrier paper gasket for leaking. Do not have one can i > > > > > >
<DIV></DIV>> > > > make it or should I wait and buy it? > > > Thanks TED > > >
<DIV></DIV>>From: "Mark Etheridge@Moto Guzzi Classics" <Guzzi-@aol.com> > >
<DIV></DIV>> > Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com > > > To:
<DIV></DIV>>Loopfram-@topica.com > > > Subject: Re: Engine Removal > > >
<DIV></DIV>>Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 23:58:47 EST > > > > > > Your free
<DIV></DIV>>subscription is supported by today's sponsor: > > >
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<DIV></DIV>> > > > Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon? > > >
<DIV></DIV>>Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS! > > >
<DIV></DIV>>Get NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area. > > >
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<DIV></DIV>> > > > > > > I leave the motor in,with front engine bolt in
<DIV></DIV>>place,remove batt > > > tray,swing > > > arm,pull tranny,piece of
<DIV></DIV>>cake,1st time it took all day,now i do the > > > complete r > > >
<DIV></DIV>>and r in 3 hrs,takes a couple more to change rear bearing gasket,jb
<DIV></DIV>>weld > > > > > > > > > cam > > > plug,change rear seal,Mark > > > >
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<DIV></DIV>> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > Greg Bender > >
<DIV></DIV>>1971 Ambassador > > 2000 Quota > >
<DIV></DIV>>http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender> > > > Your free
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<DIV></DIV>> > > > > > > > > > > Regards, > > Greg Bender > 1971 Ambassador >
<DIV></DIV>>2000 Quota >http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbenderJoe in St Louis
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