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Hi Tom,
I suppose that is one possibility. Looking at the nut,
were you able to
see where it was staked? I would think that a lack of
staking - or a
failed staking - would be the most likely culprit.
Tom Christian wrote:
| |
Thanks for the hints guys - put it up on blocks, a good
whap or 3 and it was out. Just too chicken to hit it
hard
enough the first time.
Interesting find though in the disassembly, the rear
cover
had been put on with no gasket, and the rear layshaft
nut
came off pretty easily, as did the Clutch Boss nut.
Everything I've read says shim w/o the gasket, then add
the gasket on final assembly as this allows for heat
expansion. Could this have been the cause of the
original
issue with the layshaft retainer nut - heat expansion
causing it to rub against the case?
-tom
On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 06:45:37 -0800
Greg Field <gre-@gregfield.com> wrote:
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Oddly, the one that I fixed had an input shaft that |
| | a few good whacks to get out. Makes sure all fastenings
are off, putt down some padding, set the tranny on the
flange for the rear cover, and whack it with a plastic
hammer.
GF
On Monday, February 21, 2005, at 04:50 AM, tom |
| | wrote:
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Any thoughts on why the input shaft is being so
stubborn?
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 17:03:03 -0800
Greg Field <gre-@gregfield.com> wrote:
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| | | | | | If it shifted OK before, no need to reshim the |
|
|
| | | | | | I repaired one just like you describe (hole punched
through case)
last fall. Just tighten everything well, and it |
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| | | | | | work if it was
working. In your case, the nut on the aft end of the
shaft may also
have been loose, causing the crunchy shifting. Take |
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| | | | | | the output
shaft and make damn sure you have the front, ccw
tightening, nut
fully seated. Use red loctite on it and punch it
thoroughly to
prevent loosening. Then shim the drum.
GF
On Sunday, February 20, 2005, at 02:52 PM, tom |
|
|
| | | | | | wrote:
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Rad
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| | | | | | | |
The long story as short as possible - last spring I
bought my '74
disc Eldo Police and after a few miles the forward
layshaft nut
chewed through the tranny case (last year). I tried |
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| | | | | | | | quick fix -
attaching a new nut through the chewed hole and |
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| | | | | | | | the hole up
with scrap aluminum and JB Weld - and the tranny |
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| | | | | | | | godawful
noises when shifting up from first as it |
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| | | | | | | | neutral - so I
put it away.
Just getting around to starting the project now - |
|
|
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| | | | | | | | using Pete
Ropers DIY article from guzzitech on shimming as a
reference I
pulled the tranny apart today - and it all looks |
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| | | | | | | | spanking new.
Nothing broken, no metal bits. The input shaft is |
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| | | | | | | | coming out,
even after a few taps. Before I go wailing on it, I
thought I'd
check to see if there's something I missed - it |
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| | | | | | | | like its still
"locked" in place - I removed the nut, tang washer |
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| | | | | | | | Boss. Also
interesting, I only found one hardened washer under |
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| | | | | | | | pegnut on
the speedo, not under the drive itself?
If anyone has any hints on what to look for, and
reshimming the 3
shafts (not just the drum), certainly appreciated.
Thanks, -tom
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Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
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