Thanks Greg, I actually do have another star washer and nut, but I won't be able to get to it til Saturday to measure it.
-tom
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 17:50:28 +0000 Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com> wrote:
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I just ran out and checked my 850T transmission sitting on the work bench with an extra cup I have. Unless the the shoulder is protruding beyond the threads on the input shaft, I don't think you have anything to worry about.
What was your washer and nut set up like? My output nut is already torqued on, but if you can get the thickness of it (perhaps Gordon can measure one for you) as well as the thickness of the washer (I have a toothed one, if that's what you used), I'll measure it out and see if it's even possible to have a problem.
Tom Christian wrote:
Thanks Joe, I did briefly talked to Rick & Gordon this morning who told me "I've always done it that way (ground off the shoulder) - but don't remember why". Neither thinks it will hurt anything if you don't, but better safe than sorry. Out it comes <sigh>.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 14:09:15 +0000 joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com> wrote:
Tom, I'm recalling a conversation I had with Gordon about this back in 1999, when I bought one of the nuts for my Sport. I never encountered the problem myself, but I ground off the shoulder
prior
to installation. If it really were a problem, I would suspect that the guys at MG would have warned you - why don't you give them a call and pass on what they tell you.
I apologize if I mis-spoke...going from a faded memory.
Joe in St Louis "Junkyard" 850T-Powered Ambo
Tom Christian wrote:
<<Also, if you bought the hex nut to replace the special clutch hub nut, don't forget to grind off
the
thin-walled portion above the hex. I think it may interfere with the throw out bushing installed on the pressure plate, preventing the clutch from
engaging.>>
YIKES - is this true? I bought one and used it but I hadn't heard you needed to grind the shoulder? The tranny's back in the bike but I haven't cranked it
over
yet. Can anyone verify this (for an Eldo Police with 5-speed)?
Geez - really don't want to take the tranny out
again..
thanks, tom On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 21:08:38 +0000 joe jump <jum-@hotmail.com> wrote:
850T Trans in Junkyard and the 5 speed in my V-7 Sport both had
two
o-rings on the transmission input shaft inside/behind the clutch
hub.
The smaller of the two fits in a groove on the shaft; the larger
lays
on top of the shaft against the input shaft bearing. You won't
see
either of these until you pull your old hub, then look on the shaft
down
by the bearing.
Also, if you bought the hex nut to replace the special clutch hub nut, don't forget to grind off the thin-walled
portion
above the hex. I think it may interfere with the throw out bushing installed on the pressure plate, preventing the clutch from engaging.....now that I think about it, that may not be a problem with a Ram
clutch,
but I was warned about it by Gordon when I bought one for my Sport a
few
years back.
You and the Beauty are going to love the flywheel
diet!
Joe in St Louis "Junkyard" 850T-Powered Ambo
bluezi-@att.net wrote:
This evening was spent taking the Bronze Beauty
apart
to
get at the clutch to replace it with a RAM, all the info I
found
here was real helpful,...but WHAT A PAIN JUST TO GET TO THE DAMN THING!!! I've replaced many clutches in Jap & British bikes, and
never
did I have to take so much off the bike to get at them!!! Okay, I'm done venting. Now for my question: When
I
ordered the clutch, I told Gordon to send whatever seals and "O" rings
that
should be replaced when doing such a job. The problem is
that
now
that it's all apart, I can't for the life of me see where three
of
the
o-rings he sent belong. The first is 2.7 cm in diameter, the
second
is
2.5 cm diameter, and the third is 2.2 cm diameter. There are also
three
little cone shaped rubber things, each is 1 cm on one end and
.7
cm
on the other, and .7 cm in length......What the hell are they for?!?!?!? You guys that have been down the RAM clutch road,
can
you help me on this one? Thanks Bill 73 Bronze Eldo
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