Subject: RE: advice...still have clutch woes
Author: Greg Bender
Date: Aug 17, 2005, 12:09 PM
Post ID: 1719311166
Hi Tom,
I've seen two styles of needle-type 22mm throw out bearings. One has the
needles open on both sides and uses to races (hardened washers), one on
either side. The other style has the needles open on only one side and
uses a single race on the open side.
I think it is important to use the correct races, but I don't think it
would cause - in and of itself - bearing failure in 60 miles. Here's my
thinking...I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that both the
inner and outer body are made of steel. Although not hardened, I would
think the throw out bearing would still last a long time on a properly
adjusted clutch. I see the real problem with not using the washer as
being the difficulty in getting the needed amount of throw from the
lever at the back of the transmission.
I think - as you suggest - that it may just be badly worn clutch plates.
I'll also throw into the mix the possibility of badly notched clutch
input hub splines or perhaps a bent intermediate plate. I suppose
notched flywheel splines could also be causing the problem, but they
seem - at least in my experience - to outlast the options.
Just some rambling thoughts...
Tom Christian wrote:
Thanks.
Don't know quite what I'm going to do - perhaps nothing at
the moment. When I fixed my tranny, I put in the throwout
bearing incorrectly (missed a race - washer), rode it for
about 60 miles like that until it finally gave up the
ghost.
Currently the clutch has a very short effective range of
motion i.e. the clutch disengages/engages over just a
tiny bit of motiion on the lever in the middle of its
overall throw. I'm wondering if I didn't grind off some
of the pushrod or maybe its just a well worn clutch. I'm
going to do a complete teardown for the cosmetic upgrade
this winter, but thought I might futz with it if it could
be done without ripping it out again (which I can now do
in my sleep).
I have the "old stuff" in there now, but I do have 3 cone
seals from MG cycle waiting on the bench, and yes, I have
a parts book.
-tom
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 16:44:27 +0000
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Yes You may need to remove the swingarm.
Are you putting in the Moto International seal (o-ring)
kit?
Do you have a parts book?
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Related question - on a 5 speed, can the entire pushrod
be
replaced without removing the tranny?
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 08:50:33 -0700
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Consider also that the clutch pushrod seals could be
binding on the rod . . .
GFI'm pretty sure they are sintered bronze- at least
that's what mine
looked like.
A year later (3K miles?), it is finally starting tovery,a slight
amount
of noise. I was under the impression that the
single-plates sound like
a tin cup full of angry nails, but mine has beenlubricantvery quiet. I
think I'm finally wearing through some of theand(amsoil, heavy
trailer axle grease) that I put on the spline.
Before installing one, I read everything I could find
about these
clutches. They've been used mostly in LeMans or
outright racing type
applications where the rider is hard on the bike. The
earliest account
I found of wearing out the plate was around 5K milesofthis from a
guy
who rode a LeMans loaded up with a touring pack mostsuggestthe time.
There
are few reports -that I've found- of the RAM wearing
out. Bill, I
sincerely hope yours hasn't given up- that wouldthebad things
about mine in the near future. Anyway- I was underisimpression that
when the disk wore out, the clutch would slip rather
than bind. So
perhaps some of Greg's suggestions about lubricationsponsor:more likely?
J
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Regards,
Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender
Florida MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/fl_mgnoc
Minnesota MGNOC website
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mn_mgnoc