Subject: Re: Generator Bracket Question
Author: STEVE FARRIS
Date: Nov 16, 2004, 6:18 AM
Post ID: 1717893389
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Ian,
as Greg said, Guzzi recommends replacement when the disc's are down to 7.5mm, I thought my plates looked "not too bad" when I took it apart but the caliper gave their thickness as 6.83mm. might be one reason it wasn't working too well :-)
Steve
PS when I get it together I will send you info on my loops to update your list.
SF
----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Adkins
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 2004 4:47 AM
Subject: RE: Generator Bracket Question
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Hi All,
I began tearing into Baretta's engine yesterday. Everything looked ok as I
removed the ring gear, clutch assembly and flywheel. Lots of clutch dust had
accumulated but everything looked solid. Does anyone know the wear limits on
the plates? The ones in there had a fair bit left but I'll likley go with
new clutch plates anyways. That will leave me with two sets of plates with a
fair bit of material on them...but I've done my time removing engines to get
to the plates :-)
As for the generator bracket...looked like the PO (or whomever did the work)
had been too lazy to remove the oil line to get a straight shot at the bolts
so installed them at an angle. I'll have to helicoil (or timesert as
suggested). What is the diameter that should be used to predrill the hole? I
am wondering if the aluminum might be weakened by drilling the tap hole. I
am assuming that I should red loctite the inserts in place?
I will get to the top end tonight. Feels good to finally get into the
engine....Ian
>
> Keith:
> The generator should be pretty solid, while you have the tank off you
> should definitely take a few minutes and take the generator off to
> inspect the bracket. I've seen them cracked on the bottom between a
> mounting hole and the side; sometimes a bolt comes loose and strips out
> the aluminum threads in the engine case, possibly from being overtorqued
> by someone before it got to you; always be mindful when cranking down on
> a bolt threaded into softer aluminum threads. In one instance a PO
> broke off one of the bolts in the case and retapped the remains for a
> smaller one, nice piece of bodge work.
> I've welded another piece of steel over the complete bottom of the
> inside of the bracket as a repair (doesn't change the tension
> dimension), and have done the standard repair of helicoils (better yet,
> Timesertshttp://www.timesert.com/) and replaced the bolts with
> locktited studs with nylock nuts and star lockwashers to hold the
> bracket down. You'll need an angle drill attachment to do this with the
> engine in the frame, I can lend you one if you go that route..
>
> John Prusnek
>
>
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<DIV>
<DIV>Ian,</DIV>
<DIV>as Greg said, Guzzi recommends replacement when the disc's are down to
7.5mm, I thought my plates looked "not too bad" when I took it apart but the
caliper gave their thickness as 6.83mm. might be one reason it
wasn't working too well :-) </DIV>
<DIV>Steve</DIV>
<DIV>PS when I get it together I will send you info on my loops to update your
list.</DIV>
<DIV>SF</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>From:</B> <A
href="mailto:ianad-@linkamerica.net">Ian Adkins</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
href="mailto:Loopfram-@topica.com">Loopfram-@topica.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 16, 2004 4:47
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: Generator Bracket
Question</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>Free
Thanksgiving recipes for you<BR><A
href="http://click.topica.com/caacQ4Qb1dfltbN3z84a/PermissionData">http://click.topica.com/caacQ4Qb1dfltbN3z84a/PermissionData</A><BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------<BR><BR>Hi
All,<BR><BR>I began tearing into Baretta's engine yesterday. Everything looked
ok as I<BR>removed the ring gear, clutch assembly and flywheel. Lots of clutch
dust had<BR>accumulated but everything looked solid. Does anyone know the wear
limits on<BR>the plates? The ones in there had a fair bit left but I'll likley
go with<BR>new clutch plates anyways. That will leave me with two sets of
plates with a<BR>fair bit of material on them...but I've done my time removing
engines to get<BR>to the plates :-)<BR><BR>As for the generator
bracket...looked like the PO (or whomever did the work)<BR>had been too lazy
to remove the oil line to get a straight shot at the bolts<BR>so installed
them at an angle. I'll have to helicoil (or timesert as<BR>suggested). What is
the diameter that should be used to predrill the hole? I<BR>am wondering if
the aluminum might be weakened by drilling the tap hole. I<BR>am assuming that
I should red loctite the inserts in place?<BR><BR>I will get to the top end
tonight. Feels good to finally get into
the<BR>engine....Ian<BR><BR>><BR>> Keith:<BR>> The
generator should be pretty solid, while you have the tank off
you<BR>> should definitely take a few minutes and take the generator off
to<BR>> inspect the bracket. I've seen them cracked on the bottom between
a<BR>> mounting hole and the side; sometimes a bolt comes loose and strips
out<BR>> the aluminum threads in the engine case, possibly from being
overtorqued<BR>> by someone before it got to you; always be mindful when
cranking down on<BR>> a bolt threaded into softer aluminum threads.
In one instance a PO<BR>> broke off one of the bolts in the case and
retapped the remains for a<BR>> smaller one, nice piece of bodge
work.<BR>> I've welded another piece of steel over
the complete bottom of the<BR>> inside of the bracket as a repair (doesn't
change the tension<BR>> dimension), and have done the standard repair of
helicoils (better yet,<BR>> Timeserts <A
href="http://www.timesert.com/">http://www.timesert.com/</A> ) and
replaced the bolts with<BR>> locktited studs with nylock nuts and star
lockwashers to hold the<BR>> bracket down. You'll need an angle drill
attachment to do this with the<BR>> engine in the frame, I can lend you one
if you go that route..<BR>><BR>> John
Prusnek<BR>><BR>><BR><BR>Your free subscription is supported by today's
sponsor:<BR>-------------------------------------------------------------------<BR>Free
recipes to get you in shape<BR><A
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