Topica Loopframe_Guzzi Archive


Subject: RE: Engine Removal

Author: Greg Bender

Date: Nov 12, 2004, 8:41 AM

Post ID: 1717873624



Hey Joe, No disrespect taken. There's more than one way to skin a cat!

joe jump wrote:
 
No disrespect to Greg, but I wouldn't recommend removing the rear main
carrier to replace the seal; reason is that I've seen the flanges on
these carriers broken off buy what I assume is a removal effort gone
wrong. If you really need to remove the carrier I believe that two of
bolt holes are threaded to take larger bolts so you could "Jack " the
carier out, but make sure you do it equally.

I've replaced this seal a couple times; once on my V-7 Sport & once
on a friend's 850T. I drilled a small hole through the old seal on the
flat surface mid-way between the ID & OD & installed a sheet metal screw

into the hole. This served as something to grab hold of with a vice
grips to pull the seal out. After removal, you can clean up the recess
where the seal fits with a rag, some spray carb cleaner, & if you are so

equipped, some compressed air. Good Idea to polish up the sealing
surface on the cranklshaft. Then slip the lubed-up new seal over the
crank & tap it home.


Greg Bender wrote:
 
Hi Ted,

Don't feel dumb at all...most of us (at least the one's humble enough to


admit it) have learned from experience the best way to work on the loop
frames by making mistakes and performing extra steps. This certainly
includes me! :>

You are now staring at the back of the the bell housing, looking at the
flange (this assumes that you've removed the clutch, flywheel, etc). You


do not need to worry about supporting the crankshaft when you remove the


flange (unless, of course, you have the front of the crankshaft undone
as well...which you don't). Perhaps it is possible to remove the rear
main seal without pulling the flange, but I would never try it. It's
just too risky that you'll gouge up the crank. Even if you don't, it's a


great idea to clean up the end of the crankshaft with some green 3M pads


so that it is nice and smooth for the new seal.

So, you need to remove the flange. But, don't just go prying it out of
there or you'll break the flange (this equals more money you don't want
to spend!). You must be very cautious and take your time. First, remove
all of the bolts that hold the flange to the case. I believe there are 8


of them. If you look carefully, you will see that 2 of the holes in the
flange are threaded. The rest of the holes in the flange are not
threaded. These threaded holes are for a special Guzzi puller. I don't
have this puller, but I simply purchased long metric bolts of the
correct size and thread pitch (I believe they are 10mm x 1.5mm; but they


might be 10mm x 1.25mm). Then, I carefully and evening screw each bolt
in. The bolts are larger in diameter than the bolts that hold the flange


on, so they push up against the case. You want to be careful here and
not get them unequal or put too much pressure on them...else you'll
break the flange. It sometimes helps to put a *little* pressure on them,


then give the flange a smack with a hammer...being careful where you hit


it and protecting the flange with wood. Resist all temptations to pry on


the flange or to hit one of the webbing members of the flange.

While you are at it, you may want to see the checklist I've put
together:
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/loopframe.htm#Engine_out?_Check_these_things




Best of luck...let us know how it goes.

Edward Walton wrote:
 

Greg thanks for the help. I see all the smart guys can take the tranny
off in the frame ! Well dummy here has both out and on the bench.
Looking at a parts list I see that the carrier housing for the rear main


seal is also holding the rear main bearing, is this right? And if it is,


how do they hold the crank shaft up when they pull that housing off when


its in the frame ? If you do not take the housing out how does the rear
main seal come out ? Any of you guys done this before?
As for the JB Weld, Do you put the JB on the outside to stop oil
leaks or do you have to instal the plug with it on ?.
Thanks for your help Guys
Ted 750 Ambo
From: Greg Bender <gr-@thisoldtractor.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: RE: Engine Removal
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2004 20:04:21 +0000

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Hi Ted,

Not to answer for Mark (and please correct me if I mis-speak, Mark),
but...

Generally it's a good idea to JB Weld the cam plug because some of them
have tendency to leak. I suppose one could actually come out, but I've
not heard of that...especially given that the forces from the helically
cut cam shaft timing gear move the cam in the opposite direction. Having



said this, I've not JB welded mine.

As for paper gaskets, given the effort you've gone to get everything
apart and put back together, I would definitely put in new paper
gaskets. There is nothing particularly excitely about the Guzzi paper
gaskets that seperate them from paper gaskets you can make yourself.
Guzzi one's are just already cut out. If you are planning to address
other gaskets in the future, you might as well purchase the whole gasket



kit, as I believe you save a few dollars that way.

As for the religious issue of whether or not to use some type of gasket
sealer on the gasket, I'll leave that decision up to you.

Edward Walton wrote:
 

Mark I forget why you have to JB Weld the cam Plug ? And how inportant
is the rear seal carrier paper gasket for leaking. Do not have one can i



make it or should I wait and buy it?
Thanks TED
From: "Mark Etheridge@Moto Guzzi Classics" <Guzzi-@aol.com>
Reply-To: Loopfram-@topica.com
To: Loopfram-@topica.com
Subject: Re: Engine Removal
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 23:58:47 EST

Your free subscription is supported by today's sponsor:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Are you serious about buying a NEW car or truck soon?
Research before stepping on the car lot and save THOUSANDS!
Get NO OBLIGATION price quotes from car dealers in your area.
http://click.topica.com/caacOlPb1dfltb6PLDGa/LeadClick
-------------------------------------------------------------------

I leave the motor in,with front engine bolt in place,remove batt
tray,swing
arm,pull tranny,piece of cake,1st time it took all day,now i do the
complete r
and r in 3 hrs,takes a couple more to change rear bearing gasket,jb weld



cam
plug,change rear seal,Mark

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Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

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Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender



Joe in St Louis
850T-Powered Ambo



Regards,

Greg Bender
1971 Ambassador
2000 Quota
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender

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