Time to fit the rotor for the alternator. The commutator needs to be cleaned up.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The sealing surface looks good.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I used a 3M pad to clean up the commutator.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I used a 3M pad to lightly clean up the sealing surface.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Another view of the cleaned commutator.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Another view of the cleaned sealing surface.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
The inside of the rotor is tapered to fit the taper on the front of the crankshaft.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
I apply anti-seize to the tapper inside the rotor.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Then secure in place with the special bolt, using anti-seize on its threads, too. The rotor can sometimes be very difficult to remove; hence my use of plenty of anti-seize in this location.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Here is the rotor fit in place.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
And now the stator is in place.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Antiseize to the three bolts that secure the stator, too.
Photo courtesy of Gregory Bender.
Bummer, this thread pulled staight out when I just barely tightened bolts. This is not the original timing chest cover. Instead, Roy purchased a replacement that had been media blasted. It looked really good, except for these threads. That is the nature of old and used parts. I ended up installing TimeSerts in both top holes to correct this problem.
